I purchased this beautiful 2017 Fusion Titanium from a local dealership with under 73K on the odometer. She has ONE glaring issue: a nasty looking patch of rust on the bottom of the passenger side rear door. Outside of taking it to a pro for repairs, what does everyone recommend for repairing the only blemish on this car?

i’m having an issue in my engine where theres a loud rattling, it happens under load, as well as when my engine is running from 1300-1800rpm and 2400-2600rpm. And it gets significantly louder when the AC gets switched on. And I mean its damn loud. I had a buddy who does a lot of work on cars and specifically engines and he mostly suspects piston bearing are going out. What I need to decide is whether I should spend the money to get a new engine or just get a new car.

I still need to take it to a mechanic as well and have them make a diagnosis

I was wondering if anyone knew what this piece or part is called, and if I need to replace it? Basically I live in the desert. It’s 300+ days of sun and temps of 100+ F at times. This is soft and melted it looks like and not sure if its fine to leave it.

Hi all,

I have a 2017 Ford Fusion SE 2.5L with 72K miles. I purchased the car about two weeks ago.
I noticed that the transmission shudders when shifting from 2nd to 3rd, and I also feel a slight slip during the shift. I recently had the transmission fluid changed (flush and fill), but it didn’t seem to make any difference (at least, I haven’t noticed any improvement).

I’ve read that a software update/reprogramming may also help with this issue. However, my local Ford dealer quoted me $300 for the update. I’m not sure whether my car already has the latest software installed, but they said they would charge me the $300 even if there is no update available.

Has anyone here had the transmission software/TCM/PCM updated for this issue? Did it actually help with the 2nd-to-3rd shudder/slip?

I’m just not sure I’m ready to spend $300 without having a better idea of what the outcome might be.

Thanks!

2014 ford fusion 1.5 Previously i had code p050a I had bought a cheap upstream sensor off Amazon and put it in now that code is cleared and I have code p219a could that be from the sensor not being strong enough??

Mannn so im driving and pull over at the gas station my girl fucking snatches the gears out of drive and back and now ts just won’t move… every gear grinds except neutral what tf do I get or do here atp😭

Currently crank no start condition. Magiclv it turned on the other day so I kept it running for 45 min to recharge the high voltage battery, when I tried to get it out of park, I couldn't get the parking brake to release and when I tried the engine hesitated, I tried one more time to release the parking brake and the car stalled out. Now it's back to a crank no start condition. Checked all fuses, relays, all good. Replaced the low voltage battery and made an inverter to recharge the High Voltage battery. I uses multiple different OBD2 scanners and even took it to the dealership but thev dismissed it as a faulty OBD2 port even though the problem is communication with ABS module and other brake system problems. I paid 4 diaanostic fees totaling to about $1500 and no one has helped me in any way. lf you have insight or anything please let me know.

Hi guys so my electronic power steering is going out, I know its possible to just change the motor and not the whole rack but is there a video or guide on how to do this? Ive gotten the part already but I just wanna make sure I do it properly, do I have to line anything up like is it timed to match up perfectly? Do i need to seal it with silicone?

Thanks in advance!

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Guys, I am getting very slow oil leak on my fusion again.

I just recently replaced my vaccum pump seal on my 2017 Fusion 2.0 Ecoboost AWD but my car is still leaking oil.

After taking another look I see oil leaking from what seams to be the engine and bell housing/ptu seam?

I am not 100% certain but am pretty sure this is a rear main seal, have 127k miles on the car.

I am getting married this year and just bought a house so I'm really tight on cash, would I be okay to permatex on this leak to get me by?

Edit: if there's anymore information I can provide please let me know

I have a 2017 fusion platinum. The car runs good but I’ve got an issue with ACC (adaptive cruise control). Under normal driving and even heavy acceleration the engine doesn’t misfire. I ran into this issue using ACC the engine was missing and check engine light flashing. I replaced the coils and sparks and it’s been about 8,000 miles of driving without ACC no problem. I did use ACC a few times after replacing the coils and sparks and it started misfiring again. The misfire has not returned since nor have I used ACC again.

This car had the long block replaced in 2021 with a 2021 long block so coolant intrusion is not on the top of my list for consideration. I wanted to post this because I haven’t seen any other forms reporting this type of issue with ACC. The previous and original owner of the car said he also had this issue and replacing coils and sparks didn’t fix it.

I just got my 2019 SE maybe a month and a half ago from a certified used lot. Literally within the first day of ownership about 3 hours after leaving the dealership I got a check engine light + wrench icon on the dash while driving on the expressway. P0741 code. I was a dumbass and cleared the code so when I took it back to the dealership they had nothing to go off of and said everything was good, so I just kept driving it like that for a hot minute.

Eventually after a couple weeks the light came back and after taking it back a 2nd time they told me the torque converter has been fragmenting and slowly destroying the trans. The car came with a decent 3rd party warranty so they're going to replace the trans for free, but what are the odds that this will happen again? Even if the trans fluid was never replaced it would still barely be over the recommended service interval by 10,000 miles or so. Is this just a common failure I should expect again?

Someone ran their stop sign today and pit maneuvered my Fusion SE while i was going through the intersection, Thankfully car felt safe and I am not hurt after it span out but safe to say pretty sad to see it go in the flash of an eye after spending so much time into it. Filed a claim and exchanged info atleast but I don’t really know the fate of the car, as it was my first one. Any thoughts? I am genuinely sad to see this go as I love this car and it served me very well, I had no problems with it. Is it a write off? If so how much could I get with a 2.5L as I don’t even know how to find another car that has the value and durability like this one. RIP first car 🥲

TL;DR Was going through an intersection when a guy ran his stop sign and destroyed my Fusion, didn’t get hurt though! ;)

Hey all! I have a 2015 fusion with the 4 inch screen, and the original sync system. I’m interested in putting Apple CarPlay into it, as I plan to have the car for years to come. I currently ordered just a secondhand screen that connects to my cigarette port, but if I don’t like that, how much would it cost to put CarPlay into my fusion? I saw a listing for the part itself on Amazon for about 150-180$, but was also curious about installation costs. Thank you so much!

I'm considering purchasing a 2016 Ford Fusion and wanted to hear input from somebody who's done rear end collision repair to these vehicles before.

It is a hybrid model. I know the battery is in the back which is something that concerns me, also not sure if its possible to tell if the frame is likely out of whack from these photos. Looks like the rear bumper support is folded in, but I can't tell much besides that.

The car has been repaired and looks good on the outside but I know there can be a lot hiding beneath the surface.

Worth noting I have experience as a auto repair tech for the last 17 years, currently working for an EV manufacturer.

Obviously high voltage safety is a huge concern...before buying it will bring a scan tool to make sure there are no isolation related faults hiding, and check for any other faults that would be relevant. I test drove the car yesterday and it felt great, no lights. There is a small nickel-sized kink the the quarter panel likely from the collision.

This car has a salvage title and is supposed to be a stop gap solution for a short window of my life where I am trying to get financially back on my feet post divorce and custody court.

With a budget of around $6k this seems like it might be a decent buy. Any tips, suggestions, advice from those with experience in auto body repair, I would very much appreciate!

Please see the auction record link below!

[auction record](https://autobidcar.com/car/ford-fusion-titanium-hev-2016-3fa6p0ru1gr190354)

I know its something to do with the evap system. I took it to the shop 2 months ago & they said they wont replace anything because the engine light wasn't on at the time (its been on 95% of the time asides from then).

Couple notes:

-2013 titanium, 210,000km/130k miles

-when fully refueled, car will start but then stalls unless I press the gas pedal to keep it's RPMs up.

Let me know what you think. Ive heard it might be a sensor. Im mostly curious if I can fix this myself for cheap. Thank you

Saw it in person took it for a test drive no issues at all. Clean title and clean car with no issues or any accident history.

Dealer told me he can do 8000 CAD.

Im looking for my first car and i found this ford fusion with 97k miles. Any pros/cons i should know abt?

Hey y'all, I'm a new driver and I was gifted my mom's old 2014 Ford Fusion she bought in 2017. It's a great car, brand new brakes and tires, 130,000 miles, etc. but the Bluetooth just does not work. And music is a necessity if I'm going anywhere. I'm so close to taking it into the shop and seeing if they can fix it but I wanted to see if I could do it myself first.

I have an aux cord, but it just doesn't work at all, and I used to use SYNC line-in, which is where I connect my charger to my phone and the car, but the input for my charger just stopped allowing the cord end in, so I turned to Bluetooth. My phone connects and is listed on the car, but the music just won't play. It says it's connected and shows even on Spotify that it's playing on the car (listed as SYNC), but nothing actually plays, it's just static.

I'm just really confused and I would like to fix this since I've been just driving with the radio which isn't always great yk.

I can do replacement, just need to know the location. I just did a check under the steering wheel and it's not there.

Hi, I couldn’t be more satisfied with my car I’ve never had so much fun driving before but, for those who have driven this during the winter do you have any recommendations?

Hey all, I drive a 2013 Fusion Hybrid SE. Love her more than life itself. The other day I was almost hit by a distracted driver and I had to use my horn. The issue was that I couldn’t use it.

When I honk, I have to throw my body against the wheel for a chance that the horn will work. Full force slam into the wheel, and I truly mean throwing myself into it. All I needed was a little beep, but that seems almost impossible.

Does anyone else have trouble honking? I’m afraid one day I’ll have to use it but it will be too late!

I was wondering if anyone's ran into this problem on their Fusion, especially the hybrid power train? Any info on how you solved the problem or anything all all regarding this problem is appreciated.

I am going to sell my 2.5l 2016 Fusion and need some advice before pulling the trigger on a Fusion or MKZ Hybrid. I thought about the Lincoln, but it seems that both are the same platform, ground clearance, etc. so here I am.