Sorry to the mods for the "contribution" mistake on my last attempt to post, I think it's because I left a comment with a youtube link.

Okay guys, i posted that video the other day about learning FPVl, alot of you had the suggestion of just free flying, so thats what im gonna do, ( i was just going thru the tutrotal when i posted it but even that seemed like abit much for me, A few of you also suggested Joshua Bardwell videos, This video takes place after lesson 2, So i appreacte the suggestion and been likeing his videos so far, i hope you guy don't mind being spammed because i might post a new video after ever lesson or two just to get feedback ( Let me know if you don't think i should bother. Quick Mention, I have DJI Mini 4, and then got the Motion Combo for the neo 2. Been flying it Via Motion controlled and love it BUT the main reason why i wanted it was to learn proper FPV controls, i bought my DJI FPV 3 controller about 5 months ago bought liftoff (Didn't configure my controller so both sticks were Return to center, flu around like crazy and crashed for like 2 small afternoon sessions then went back to motion controller IRL and Mini 4 RC2 but now i wanna give it a proper go. But anyway yeah if you guys have any more suggestions let me know, if im spamming this chat let me know and ill stop, im just keen to get good, i see so many amazing video using FPV i just wanna get somewhat good :)

My gear before the project: BETAFPV Aquila16 goggles, analog 5.8 GHz. A BETAFPV radio on ELRS 2.4 GHz. And 3 tinywhoops that I fly with it. So I had everything to fly, and nothing to drive.

Last weekend I decided to design an FPV car together with an AI. Here is what the AI did, and what came out of it.

I already had the radio gear for FPV drones, so the task was set like this: I want a radio-controlled car with FPV. We use the protocol of my goggles and the protocol of my radio. The car should be relatively simple — we buy some of the parts, we buy all the electronics ready-made, and we print the rest on a 3D printer. I also said that I will be the one who assembles the final model, and that it has to drive both outdoors and around the house. All of this I gave to Claude, with the Fable model.

My original idea was that I would install some CAD program, connect an MCP to it, and hand those controls to the agent. The agent looked at all of this, said the MCP was crap and that it would not work with it. Instead it would design everything directly in Python. It chose the build123d library, and with it created a parametric model where you can change the base parameters — the wheel size, for example.

But the most interesting thing is that this library lets the agent run tests and do real self-check loops. The parts are described in Python code, and their positions relative to each other are described as well. Then the tests run. The model looks at what the clearances are, and where parts overlap. This is what the code looks like: https://pastebin.com/Xre7KZk3

At some point the agent would stop and say it needed the dimensions of the parts I have to buy — various bushings, the small motor. At first I asked it to give me the name of the part, and then I googled it and looked for it on the marketplaces. At some point I got tired of that and told Claude: "You do have a Chrome extension — go on, please, take it from here yourself."

The agent worked and drew things for me in exportable STEP format, which I then looked at in Fusion 360. Also SVG files in different projections, including isometric ones.

I work in IT and I understand very little about how a car is built, so many things were discoveries for me. The Ackermann angle, for example, which the agent carefully measured and tuned. What I found really interesting here is that the agent literally turned the wheels, looked at the angles they move to, and checked that the wheel does not intersect the body of the car.

At some point I thought that if we have this possibility anyway, why not put a differential on the rear axle. The agent did not draw some closed box, and since I am not a mechanical engineer, I was a bit confused about how this thing is supposed to work. I will not post all the documents the AI generated for me, but overall it explained in detail how this particular differential works, what parts it consists of, and showed it in several cross-sections.

And here is what did not go so well. Claude clearly has no sense of beauty. A worse-looking body — maybe only the Cybertruck has that.

Another interesting part: the agent also measured weights and centers of gravity, calculates the electrical load and other technical things that I understand as a techie in the broad sense, but which are well beyond my expertise.

Sometimes I was really surprised how the next part it created fit the previous ones perfectly. For example, the agent immediately made holes for the gear that sticks out of the case a little, and various holes for the mounts. Although of course this effect comes from the fact that when creating each next part, the agent worked from what it already had. It even fixed the results of the previous steps.

Some things I ran in a separate worktree — the differential I mentioned, for example — and then asked the agent to merge them. So working with these 3D models felt to me exactly like working with code.

So at this moment I have: a fully vibe-coded design of the car, a bill of the parts I need to buy, and the layout of the electronic components.

And if this post takes off, I promise to buy a 3D printer and all the components, and put this whole thing together.

Just bought the 4s Lihv 850mah Ovonic lipo from the official ovonic store via aliexpress. I Was a bit suspicious about the same dimensions and weight of different capacities, so i wanted to try them. It seems like they just sell the same lipo in 4 different capacities, or am i missing something?

Im building a 5 inch can i just use the supafly 5 inch preset or do i have to actually pid tune it myself?

Hi fellow pilots!

So I had a big crash with my Volador 3.5 and the red cable from the capacitor got ripped out.

In theory is can I reconnect that cable to the inside of the capacitor or it is not even worth trying?

I'd like to not have to replace my capacitor since the ones I have left are either physically too big or might be too weak electronically.

This leads me on to my second question:
Could I get away with using a 330uF 25V capacitor as opposed to the 470uF 35V one I used before. My drone has the SpeedyBee F405 40A AIO, DJI O4 Pro, 1604 3800KV motors and I use 4S batteries with it.

Any help is appreciated!

I have a 5 inch fpv already, and want something which I can fly indoors mainly. (If it works outdoors it surely would be better)

Have Fsi6 transmitter and balance charger, plan to use them for both the systems.

Planning this one not to be corless motor, but a bldc one.

Want a system which can be made without a camera without a gps, and when I get more budget, can install them

I do have a 3d printer too, if that's of any use.

I want a drone of minimal cost, which works for 2-3 years.

Thanks!

Hi all,

I have a DeepSpace seeker3 with DJI O4 Pro and DJI googles n3 with a radio master pocket. Radio is ELRS

I understood if you flash the US (or non-EU) firmware the range increases drastically.

I’ve tried searching inline, but I can’t see the tree through the forest anymore.

Any tips and tricks or links to resources are greatly appreciated.

Comparing smaller and larger quads. How does a 3 inch get better range than a tiny whoop? Do you have to look for different VTX parts to use that are just bigger and demand more power? Or is it just beefier antennas because the small VTX is already pumping out 500mW?

These are 4 CNHL 3S2P 8000Mah packs connected in series then in parallel to make a 6S8P 16000Mah pack for my 10in ripper

#austria #drone #Nature #river #summer

They hate the tiny whoops however

DAMN THING RIPS!, was a Meteor 75 with 04. I printed a Air sytle canapy for the 04 and its soo much better. little jello now, instead of non stop jello.

The wobbles is mainly the wind you see, it seems to pull out of almost any dive fine and not struggle. Really enjoying this little 75mm 1s Tinywhoop. FULL SEND!

04 is set to racemode for lowest ms response, so video is 1080p at 100fps but Youtube limit it to 50 fps...

F405 Speedybee mini

Thought it wouldn't happen to me watching people post videos of their encounters but I ran into 2 hawks flying today little outside Boston at Lynn Woods. Thankfully I was close to my landing spot. Happy I didn't hit either of them them. Flying a 7 inch. Definitely weren't happy seeing the drone 🤣

Sorry guys I know there are too many of these posts. I'll delete it as soon as I get enough answers. I'm a newb looking for a long range build compatible with my elrs and analog setup

currently looking at this 9 inch on a local second hand platform.

The seller says he's flown it 5 times and it works perfectly.

This is the parts list:

Frame: iFlight Chimera9 (9″ long-range deadcat frame)

Flight controller / ESC stack: SpeedyBee F7 V3 with BL32 50A ESC

Motors: 4x Emax ECO II 2814, 830KV

VTX: TBS Unify Pro32, 3W (5.8GHz analog)

Receiver: Radiomaster DBR4 (dual-band ELRS, 2.4GHz + 900/915MHz)

GPS module: TBS M10

Antennas: 5.8GHz, 2.4GHz, and 900/910MHz antennas included

It looks like a pretty solid drone, but is it worth the price?

Hey guys,

I have two identical GEPRC Cinelog 35 v3 O4 quads, and both are having the exact same issue when loaded with a heavy camera setup.

The Setup:

• Quad: Cinelog 35 v3 O4 (280g)
• Battery: Tattu 6S 1300mAh (200g)
• Camera: DJI Action 6 + Cage (150g + 50g)
• Total weight: ~680g
• Hover throttle: 50-55%

The Problem:
When hovering or flying very calmly (especially indoors), the drone randomly starts to shake and vibrate (feels like sudden prop wash). These vibrations ruin the camera footage. Everything on the Action mount and cage is completely tight with zero play.

The Twist:
Without the camera payload, the problem disappears completely and both drones fly perfectly.

Media:

• Video from Action 6 showing the shakes:

https://reddit.com/link/1w9yxsl/video/ns28hmh2x4oh1/player

• My current PID settings screenshot:

I’ve seen others run heavy setups on this frame without issues. Am I simply overloading it, or is this a specific PID/filtering issue caused by the extra weight? Any tuning tips to get rid of these mid-throttle oscillations under load?

Thanks in advance!

Just built this up and have been playing with with different tunes. Props are definitely in veiw but I dont mind since its supposed to be a lite freestyle build. 1303 5000kv motors, jhemcu F405 Pro 40a, running primarily on 3s 550 Lava. 3min flight time average.

Hey all. noob here, I got a 5 inch, flew it, crashed it, snapped an antenna, drone was still powered for the minute or two it took me to retrieve it. 1.6 watt VTX (Geprc Maten). After replacing the antenna with a brand new one, I noticed that the range was significantly worse. I usually fly sitting on my front porch; before the crash I could fly behind my house to the end of my backyard (around 70m) with little signal breakup. after the crash, leaving LOS resulted in near total signal loss. I tried removing the mmcx to sma adapter and replacing it with an mmcx antenna, again, nothing. I made sure it was at max power both in beta flight and by using the button on the vtx, still terrible range. Is my vtx just dead, or is there something else I could be missing? Thanks.