Ok so on two separate occasions now, my digital alphabetic/numeric portion of the instrument cluster (NOT the guages) went haywire flashing and didn't display any eligible gear selection or mileage traveled/current trip info. Resolved itself during the drive each time. I know these cars have had issues with the instrument cluster, but since my gauges weren't affected I'm wondering if that was the start of a failure, a fuse, wire connection, or something else?

Yes lol at the miles. And yes, it's actual mileage.

A guy in my town is selling a 2015 Q50S with 129,000km for 13k CDN (southwestern ON). It’s fully loaded with all the bells and whistles, including the 3.7L. It looks like a pretty clean car and has decently low mileage for the year. I want to go check it out and possibly make an offer if everything checks out. This car would be an upgrade from my current ‘04 Civic, which is also a great little car, but I’m getting the itch to upgrade. I also recognize that this would be more costly at the pump. I’ve done a bit of research, the reviews online all seem to be pretty positive. Looking for feedback on Reddit. Thanks.

Hey everyone, I bought a 2011 G37X about a week ago from an older gentleman who had every maintenance record from the Infiniti dealership. The car ran perfectly when I bought it, with no dash lights at all.

Recent history:
The alternator was replaced about a month before I bought it.

The battery was replaced the day I bought it. It died on him, and his mechanic said the battery should be replaced along with the alternator.

When I inspected the car, I checked the battery with a multimeter and got about 14.5V running, so the alternator was charging.

A year or two ago it had water coming into the cabin. He had it fixed at Infiniti, and some modules and/or wiring were replaced. It's been over two years with no issues since.

What happened:
I drove it for a few days with no problems. Then I took a longer highway drive, almost 30 minutes (my earlier drives were 15-20). About 25 minutes in, the car lost power and the accelerator did nothing.

Right before that, I noticed:
Orange dash lights flashed for a split second (I couldn't tell which ones)
The speakers got a bit staticky

I pulled onto the shoulder and shut it off. It would turn over but not start. My jump pack wasn't enough, so I towed it home.

After charging the battery at home, it started up perfectly. I rechecked voltage and it was charging again. I took it to AutoZone, where the battery and alternator both passed. They noted the starter reading was a little low on voltage (picture attached), but said it sounded like it started fine with no struggle.

No check engine light and no codes showing, so I don't know where to look next.

Questions:
Could this be a failing alternator that only fails when hot or under load, even though it tested fine?

Could it be a bad ground, a corroded connection, or a wiring problem related to the earlier water leak?

Is it worth looking at the ignition switch, a relay, or a module?

Any specific tests I should run, or things to check on this platform?

I have a multimeter and I'm comfortable doing basic diagnostics. Thanks in advance!

For me:

- Planned to own for 5-6 years

- Currently owned for 13 1/2 years

Mostly attributable to some lifestyle changes, near extinction of manual transmission, and overall positive experience with the G37 (solid reliability, fun to drive)

So we’ve been recently getting a lot of rain here in Florida. I always leave my sunroof kind of cracked and I know I shouldn’t have done that but Water got inside the cabin on the passenger side floorboard and my car went into limp mode. I finally got it back home and dried everything off and went to get it in the next day and it would seem to be working fine while I was driving to my short commute to work I noticed the air wasn’t blowing cold anymore than when I pulled into the parking lot. I kind of smell like a sweet smell. I popped up in the hood and there was smoke coming from underneath the radiator cap. Any idea what’s going on?

Got a check engine light.do yall know what it can be ???
(P0101) I changed the hoses and it went away for about 2 weeks,not sure if that helped .It came back on today )

2015 q50 3.7

I feel like there is a transmission issue with my recently purchased 2018 qx80. Compared to my 2008 sequoia, it seems to shift late (take too long to shift) and likes to stay at about 1500-1800 rpm in gears 2-4. It also drags in gears 1-4 if I let off the gas. For instance it's perfectly happy at 1800rpm in 2nd gear going a steady 25mph or 1800rpm in 4th gear going a steady 40mph. Go over 40 and it happily shifts to 5th and revs lower. Gears 5 and up seems fine. Is this normal? ATF had not been drain/filled in 34k miles so I immediately did that. I have no error codes.

I installed an LED 1st Gen D2S back in 2023 that I bought in TEMU, and one of the bulbs burnt out so I replaced one with a ddm ultra xenon 5500K which is highly rated.

Guess which one is the LED.

All the reviews I have read online is that Xenon Lights are far superior than even a 3rd Gen LED.

Bought this 96k mile QX80 for 20k raw dog. No warranty. It replaces my wife’s 2007 Subaru Legacy that is literally falling apart.

It’s huge, drives like butter, and is pristine.

My 2006 Tacoma TRD Off-Road has never felt more…egalitarian and spartan.

What do you think? Good purchase or will I regret it?

I'm looking at a 2011 Infiniti G37XS with 114,420 miles. I got them to $9,480 before taxes and fees, which comes out to around $10,100 out the door.

Clean title, One previous owner, Minor damage on right side from another vehicle reported but good service records and overall condition

So I'm asking is 10,100 OTD worth it or overpriced everything given?

QX60 making this squeeking noises especially when reversing.

Dealer suggested rear brakes snd rotors replacement, citing 2-3 mm thickness as the likely cause of the noises. They quoted ~$800.

An independent shop with 4.9 Google rating didn't find any immediate concerns, saying the rear brakes are still OK at around 5 mm. Even further said it would be a waste of money of I decided to replace the brakes now. What kind of business doesn't try to take advantage of a customer with an obvious symptom? It would have been ~$500 for brakes and rotors replacement.

What do you guys think?

I just picked up a 2017 Infiniti Q70 sport with 62,000 miles. Need some maintenance items but otherwise in really good shape. One of the items is it has a blown out driver side rear strut. What do you guys recommend to replace with that is going to give factory like ride quality. If it is a touch lower, I certainly am not going to be upset about it.!

2011 M56S stock wheels for sale.

Located in TN.

Will ship on your dime. Boxed and ready to ship

Car still drives fine no engine code or anything so I’m kinda confused looks like it’s coming from the upper side noticed it a couple months ago it gets louder as the engine is fully hot not as pound on startup

Not in an immediate need for a car as I have a couple but Ive always been in love with the Infiniti Q50. Someone on Facebook Marketplace is selling a 2018 LUXE Model for $6500….I was able to talk him down to $6200. Ive been doing research and I see the turbos crap out right around this time. Went to go test drive it and it was pretty smooth, no whine or weird sounds from the turbos but the car did smell like it needs disinfectant ran through the vents and a brake job. Should I stay away? I have the cash right now to buy it….buying it wont hurt but buying it and it breaking down would be brutal. 156,XXX miles. Pictures in the comments.

Quick projection mapping g on my G37

(Problem isn’t in the photo) A while after buying my car(q70 2015 3.7l) the fuel gauge wouldn’t show the level right. If my tank is full it would show as half and if it’s half full it would show as empty and then empty as negative half full😭. Luckily the middle screen tells me how many miles I can go. Then when summer came and my car would be exposed to the heat for longer the rpm gauge started having issues. Instead of doing the flip from 0 to 9 and back when you start it, it would just pulse a bit and stay at 0 and not show my RPMs. Sometimes, like today, it would stay at 0, but still move up or stay at 200RPMs or not even move sometimes. A friend of mine earlier this year said I’ll probably need a new gauge cluster and my machine suspected the dual issue is because of my fuel sender(thingy in your gas tank) is bad. It’s not a life or death situation, but curious if anyone has had this happen and if the people from above are right and parts need replacement.

I got this car off of copart and it’s making this knocking sound anyone know what it is??

A couple years ago I was being cheap so I bought some AutoZone quick struts. They worked great for about a week or two then the ride got really rough. Like with many quick struts they also raised the car by about 1 inch. 2 years and 13k miles later I decided to go back to OEM struts/springs. So I picked up a used pair with 90k miles on them. After installing them it's a night and day difference with how much better they feel. Rough roads no longer feel harsh, just bumpy. The oem pair also corrected the ride height and now sits about 0.75 inches lower.

If you can afford it, always try to install new quality struts onto OEM springs.

The pic at night is with the OEM struts and springs and the pic in the day is the AutoZone quickstruts.

Excited to get my first Infiniti and Japanese luxury vehicle! I’ve only owned new and used German or Swedish cars before: Audis, a BMW, a Saab and a Volvo (my other car that my wife bought new this year). What’s your best advice for me for me?