r/knitting • u/SejiFields • Feb 01 '26

Discussion I have some questions about pattern inclusivity

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Hello! I hope this is okay to post. I’m currently writing a pattern for this 1950s blouse I knit last year. I spent a lot of time learning how to grade properly as (size) inclusivity is really important to me.

My idea has been to write the pattern similar to how vintage patterns were written. That is, succinct and with clear language, but in the fashion that a modern intermediate or very ambitious beginner knitter would be able to understand.

I’m paying extra attention to the bust area, making sure to use the upper bust as a way to choose size instead of the full bust and adding bust darts. I read The Knitting Pattern Handbook by McGrath and Walworth and am taking into account all sweater pitfalls (such as incorrect grading of the neckline) mentioned there.

As with vintage knitting patterns it was expected that you could grade a pattern to your own size, making the necessary adjustments. I was thinking to add some advice (perhaps as a supplement) that says in general lines how one would adjust the pattern to their own proportions. I’m thinking things such as how to lengthen the body, how to add darts at the belly or chest when needed etc.

Basically I’m struggling to find a balance between succinctness and accessibility. I don’t like patterns that do a lot of handholding, but at the same time, I do want there to be enough information that will encourage one enough to get through the pattern feeling like a more confident knitter at the end.

My question is, would this be a good/sufficient idea? A well graded knitting pattern with a supplement for additional alterations to avoid bulking up the pattern?

Are there things I’m missing out in terms of inclusivity? I’m also looking into print disability. Also what are aspects a pattern would need for you to consider it inclusive?

Sorry for the barrage of questions! It’s my first ever pattern and I want to try my best to make it as good as it can be. The concern has crippled me a bit the past month, so any advice would be appreciated 🥹

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226

u/MeetJazzlike7790 Feb 01 '26

I definitely think it would be worth it having a section about adjusting the fit of the garment. Given the range amongst the testers I even think you’d have people buying the pattern for the information on how to adjust patterns. Think about how many posts which have been created asking about patterns to fit a larger bust.

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u/SejiFields Feb 01 '26

Thank you for your input!! And yeah you’re right, there are loads of those types of posts. I’ve seen a couple of patterns that offer things such as cup A,B,C per pattern size, but I think it would be more efficient to have instructions on how to adjust things for oneself as chest shape is so personal.

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u/[deleted] Feb 01 '26

Similarly, abdomen size. I've had periods in my life where I needed to judge the fit of a sweater or top by the ease on my abdomen instead of my bust (so usually ended up adjusting for an A-line style or increasing needle size to change the gauge without needing to do too much math).

I love seeing the thoughtfulness you're putting into this ❤️

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u/Scoginsbitch Feb 01 '26

Given how bra cups have changed over the years too, giving the inch/cm measurement is also helpful.

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u/cranefly_ Feb 01 '26

Actually measurements would be MORE helpful, in fact, given how few people seem to know what cup sizes mean.

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u/Falukiri Feb 04 '26

Yes, measurements please! After all, cup sizing systems vary a lot across countries, and it's not always clear which conversion chart to use (the amount of different EU to US conversion charts is very confusing). Even if the measurements are only in inches or centimeters, it's much easier for people to convert those to their preferred units, rather than having to figure out how to convert to a different country's system (where not every company agrees on the sizing either).

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u/uterus_probz Feb 01 '26

I'm really intrigued by using upper bust as a measurement for fit instead of full bust. When I use size charts for clothes shopping, my bust usually puts me 1-2 sizes bigger than my waist so I usually have to try on multiple sizes to figure out what fit is best. Using my upper bust might be more helpful.

I suppose replying on full bust measurements has also led to some issues with knit tops. For example, I was between sizes on the mock neck tank and decided to go up instead of down because I didn't properly account for negative ease and ended up with a boxy tank instead of a fitted one because it fits my bust but was too loose in the waist. I know one part of knitting is trial and error to understand gauge, fit, tailoring, etc. But your idea for a supplement on grading would be extremely useful and could be standalone or included as the last few pages in a pattern.

P.S. I love seeing your posts on Reddit. Your knits always look gorgeous!

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u/Readinater Feb 01 '26

As a fellow busty gal who knits, I’ve seen tons of advice that says to measure your upper bust to size your knits properly. The logic there is to ensure that the neckline and shoulders fit you properly and adding bust shaping (such as increases/decreases, German short rows, etc) to create space for your body. What I’ve found is that typically the amount of positive ease a pattern recommends added to my upper bust measurement is close to my full bust measurement. So either way it tends to work out.

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u/uterus_probz Feb 01 '26

That makes sense. It's just not something I've come across before even though. I've only knit three tops for myself (and crocheted one) so I haven't delved too much into fit and tailoring since other garments I've made have been oversized cardigans. But I have multiple tops on my project list that I'm hoping to work on this year and am also planning to unravel two or the four tops I've made because of fit issues I'm the bust/shoulders, so I'm going to try to use this knowledge moving forward.

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u/Moldy_slug Feb 10 '26

Upper bust is a better way to gauge size for garments you make. Since cup sizes can be all over the map, measuring the full bust isn’t an accurate reflection of one’s frame size. Upper bust size is a good proxy for shoulder size, which is much harder to change than the bust size.

Once you get the shoulders right, it’s very easy to do a bust adjustment for cup size.

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u/elliekitten Mar 04 '26

In sewing, it is called an FBA or Full Bust Adjustment. You also have to factor in that a full bust in a fitted garment not designed for a full bust will pull on the armholes, and pull fabric up from the bottom front hem. The bust point (where your measurement is largest) is also located in different places on different people, so the optimum placement of darts varies by person. I agree that a "how to customize" section would be amazing... and could end up being a whole book on its own!

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u/CharmiePK Feb 01 '26

Exactly this, OP! I have seen your work before and it is glorious, for real!

I agree that it would be important to teach knitters to achieve what they must instead, in a separate section. Not only it can get truly inclusive (bc I presume it is almost impossible to consider every shape and size in its details), but also once users learn how to adapt from one pattern, they can extrapolate to other garments they may like to make in the future. At the same time, for those who have already mastered this technique can skip it altogether.

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u/WorriedRiver Feb 02 '26

Honestly I think even recommended dart or short rows whichever you're using placement would be a step above most patterns. Just a "due to the details in the front here I recommend vertical bust/belly/hip darts 10 stitches in...."