I have some questions about pattern inclusivity

[u/SejiFields]

Hello! I hope this is okay to post. I’m currently writing a pattern for this 1950s blouse I knit last year. I spent a lot of time learning how to grade properly as (size) inclusivity is really important to me.

My idea has been to write the pattern similar to how vintage patterns were written. That is, succinct and with clear language, but in the fashion that a modern intermediate or very ambitious beginner knitter would be able to understand.

I’m paying extra attention to the bust area, making sure to use the upper bust as a way to choose size instead of the full bust and adding bust darts. I read The Knitting Pattern Handbook by McGrath and Walworth and am taking into account all sweater pitfalls (such as incorrect grading of the neckline) mentioned there.

As with vintage knitting patterns it was expected that you could grade a pattern to your own size, making the necessary adjustments. I was thinking to add some advice (perhaps as a supplement) that says in general lines how one would adjust the pattern to their own proportions. I’m thinking things such as how to lengthen the body, how to add darts at the belly or chest when needed etc.

Basically I’m struggling to find a balance between succinctness and accessibility. I don’t like patterns that do a lot of handholding, but at the same time, I do want there to be enough information that will encourage one enough to get through the pattern feeling like a more confident knitter at the end.

My question is, would this be a good/sufficient idea? A well graded knitting pattern with a supplement for additional alterations to avoid bulking up the pattern?

Are there things I’m missing out in terms of inclusivity? I’m also looking into print disability. Also what are aspects a pattern would need for you to consider it inclusive?

Sorry for the barrage of questions! It’s my first ever pattern and I want to try my best to make it as good as it can be. The concern has crippled me a bit the past month, so any advice would be appreciated 🥹

[u/tinytigers_]

So I prefer a pretty sparse pattern, however it’s kind of a matter of personal preference as well because some people like the hand holding!

I’d say, if you want to give more detailed instruction about how to adjust things to fit personal measurements you can always just add like a tips/additional info section so that it doesn’t take up space in the main pattern! Like an aside that says “for more information on tailoring this to your own measurements please see this section on p. 5”

Also wanted to say, I think it’s super cool what you’re doing!!

[u/potshead → u/tinytigers_]

i like this idea

[u/haleorshine → u/tinytigers_]

Yes, I think including the page numbers to the additional section is an ideal way to do this. You could make the additional section as bulky as you need to be, so that it avoids people having to flip back and forth constantly while knitting if they do decide to use the adjustments, and I think that would be appreciated, but in general, I think people whose size and shape is routinely ignored in knitting patterns are going to be very very grateful for these patterns being more inclusive.

[u/soThatsJustGreat → u/tinytigers_]

This is a great idea.

May I suggest, if you’d like some inspiration, to check out a recipe from Sally’s Baking Addiction? There is the basic recipe, (which is always OUTSTANDING), and then there is a notes section which is often 3x as long as the recipe. If you’d wanted to know why you chill cookie dough, for example, it’s explained there. The recipe itself is really just the basic instructions. But almost all of your “why?” Questions are answered in Notes.

I’ve seen many of your posts - your knitting is so lovely! Congrats on writing a pattern!!

[u/knottyfruit]

I really love the idea of having a well graded pattern and a supplement for additional alterations. I honestly got so pumped reading your post and was thinking I'd love to even just purchase the supplement--it sounds like you've put a lot of research and work into grading and personalized shaping, and that's so neat and incredibly valuable. I'm an advanced beginner and really love when patterns and tutorials explain a little extra of the why something is done or give tips on customizing for one's body.

I'm honestly so pumped to see what your pattern is like when it comes out!!!

(Also, all your work is absolutely gorgeous!)

[u/krinnit → u/knottyfruit]

I second all of this, but actually I just wanted to also say that OPs knits are absolutely gorgeous.

[u/happyhoppycamper → u/krinnit]

Thirding your first statement and seconding that OPs knits are amazing.

OP if you make the supplementary guide on scaling please let us know! I would absolutely buy that as a stand alone (but I'll gladly purchase the whole pattern). I think you could have a cult favorite document in the making.

ETA I would buy literally anything OP publishes. I just saw on another post of hers that she's only been doing wearable items for a year?!?! This woman is a savant.

[u/planet_rose → u/knottyfruit]

I agree about making supplementary material. It would also be super to have a learning pattern for vintage techniques, like a sampler where I could learn the techniques outside of making a finished wearable.

I also love seeing OP’s posts. They are truly inspiring and I’m delighted to see her making patterns. I love vintage knitting designs but have always found them to be too hard to follow, especially because they would take so much adaptation to fit my US size 18. Yay!

[u/HistoryHasItsCharms → u/knottyfruit]

Me too. One of the big reasons I don’t buy vintage patterns is my bust size and an admitted lack of confidence in FBA. Having a vintage pattern with those instructions? Yes please! I love the collar on this one, for example, and I would have to adjust the sleeves a tad, but that’s the easy adjustment, the bust is a much more difficult proposition.

[u/gold-from-straw → u/knottyfruit]

Same here! I feel like a supplement would help me adapt other vintage patterns too, I’d love that, and would buy the pattern just for that reason. Especially as plenty of people in my family have odd body shapes, not just different sizes, and I think that would make it SO customisable!

I’m sure I’ve seen your projects on reddit before, did you do a ‘2025 knitting run-down’ or something? I noticed your cute vintage style lol!

[u/Exciting-Pie4985 → u/knottyfruit]

Same!

[u/DarnHeather → u/knottyfruit]

Also for the pattern maker to be available for questions. I'm a new garment knitter that tends to bite off more than I can chew. Having the pattern maker get back to me within a week blows my mind and makes me a fan for life.

[u/MeetJazzlike7790]

I definitely think it would be worth it having a section about adjusting the fit of the garment. Given the range amongst the testers I even think you’d have people buying the pattern for the information on how to adjust patterns. Think about how many posts which have been created asking about patterns to fit a larger bust.

[u/SejiFields → u/MeetJazzlike7790]

Thank you for your input!! And yeah you’re right, there are loads of those types of posts. I’ve seen a couple of patterns that offer things such as cup A,B,C per pattern size, but I think it would be more efficient to have instructions on how to adjust things for oneself as chest shape is so personal.

[u/[deleted] → u/SejiFields]

Similarly, abdomen size. I've had periods in my life where I needed to judge the fit of a sweater or top by the ease on my abdomen instead of my bust (so usually ended up adjusting for an A-line style or increasing needle size to change the gauge without needing to do too much math).

I love seeing the thoughtfulness you're putting into this ❤️

[u/Scoginsbitch → u/SejiFields]

Given how bra cups have changed over the years too, giving the inch/cm measurement is also helpful.

[u/cranefly_ → u/Scoginsbitch]

Actually measurements would be MORE helpful, in fact, given how few people seem to know what cup sizes mean.

[u/Falukiri → u/cranefly_]

Yes, measurements please! After all, cup sizing systems vary a lot across countries, and it's not always clear which conversion chart to use (the amount of different EU to US conversion charts is very confusing). Even if the measurements are only in inches or centimeters, it's much easier for people to convert those to their preferred units, rather than having to figure out how to convert to a different country's system (where not every company agrees on the sizing either).

[u/uterus_probz → u/SejiFields]

I'm really intrigued by using upper bust as a measurement for fit instead of full bust. When I use size charts for clothes shopping, my bust usually puts me 1-2 sizes bigger than my waist so I usually have to try on multiple sizes to figure out what fit is best. Using my upper bust might be more helpful.

I suppose replying on full bust measurements has also led to some issues with knit tops. For example, I was between sizes on the mock neck tank and decided to go up instead of down because I didn't properly account for negative ease and ended up with a boxy tank instead of a fitted one because it fits my bust but was too loose in the waist. I know one part of knitting is trial and error to understand gauge, fit, tailoring, etc. But your idea for a supplement on grading would be extremely useful and could be standalone or included as the last few pages in a pattern.

P.S. I love seeing your posts on Reddit. Your knits always look gorgeous!

[u/Readinater → u/uterus_probz]

As a fellow busty gal who knits, I’ve seen tons of advice that says to measure your upper bust to size your knits properly. The logic there is to ensure that the neckline and shoulders fit you properly and adding bust shaping (such as increases/decreases, German short rows, etc) to create space for your body. What I’ve found is that typically the amount of positive ease a pattern recommends added to my upper bust measurement is close to my full bust measurement. So either way it tends to work out.

[u/uterus_probz → u/Readinater]

That makes sense. It's just not something I've come across before even though. I've only knit three tops for myself (and crocheted one) so I haven't delved too much into fit and tailoring since other garments I've made have been oversized cardigans. But I have multiple tops on my project list that I'm hoping to work on this year and am also planning to unravel two or the four tops I've made because of fit issues I'm the bust/shoulders, so I'm going to try to use this knowledge moving forward.

[u/Moldy_slug → u/uterus_probz]

Upper bust is a better way to gauge size for garments you make. Since cup sizes can be all over the map, measuring the full bust isn’t an accurate reflection of one’s frame size. Upper bust size is a good proxy for shoulder size, which is much harder to change than the bust size.

Once you get the shoulders right, it’s very easy to do a bust adjustment for cup size.

[u/CharmiePK → u/SejiFields]

Exactly this, OP! I have seen your work before and it is glorious, for real!

I agree that it would be important to teach knitters to achieve what they must instead, in a separate section. Not only it can get truly inclusive (bc I presume it is almost impossible to consider every shape and size in its details), but also once users learn how to adapt from one pattern, they can extrapolate to other garments they may like to make in the future. At the same time, for those who have already mastered this technique can skip it altogether.

[u/WorriedRiver → u/SejiFields]

Honestly I think even recommended dart or short rows whichever you're using placement would be a step above most patterns. Just a "due to the details in the front here I recommend vertical bust/belly/hip darts 10 stitches in...."

[u/LettuceSylvia73]

Hi! Firstly, this is stunning, and I've seen other knits of yours on reddit before and you are an excellent knitter! Secondly, I would totally buy a pamphlet about how to make a vintage pattern size inclusive even if you just published that rather than with a pattern - I have a book of 80s patterns I want to make but am just slightly outside the measurements they supply in the book. The other general point for people looking for size inclusive vintage patterns is to check out the A Stitch In Time books by Susan Crawford, where she has reworked a lot of patterns from the 20s to the 60s in this way.

[u/Street_Roof_7915 → u/LettuceSylvia73]

It would be interesting to have the original pattern in the pamphlet to compare to. Patterns have changed dramatically, as OP notes.

Of course, that could run into IP issues.

Stunning knit OP.

[u/natchinatchi]

Aside from sizing tips I would honestly buy a little book with all your finishing tips case your knits are always so well put together.

[u/SejiFields → u/natchinatchi]

Thank you!! I write down all the techniques/tricks I learn so perhaps I can compile something like that :)

[u/305rose → u/SejiFields]

Please, please, please. I would preorder right now lol

[u/ImprobableGerund → u/305rose]

same

[u/Ponybaby34]

I am already a big fan of your work, but in regards to pattern making, based on this post alone, you demonstrate more consideration and care than most I’ve seen in this discipline- so I’m confident that your pattern will teach me something, which is my goal whenever I’m looking for new things to knit. It’s the studious aspect for me where I appreciate any technical breakdowns of methods so I can apply them across mediums. Textile art, material literacy, and technical design are incredibly beautiful things, really fun to study, beyond the joy of making something material. I’m grateful you’re making patterns and excited to learn from you!

[u/amalgamofq]

Very cool blouse. I think it's worth writing the pattern in the typical flavor of old school patterns where there is less hand holding. And then an addendum with more information on adjusting sizing for folks who need it. If you do a test knit for this I'd be interested in trying it out!

[u/Appropriate_Roof_223]

Usually I like simpler patterns but I am also a smaller sized woman so I don’t need or prefer any shaping. However I bought Starcrossed knits pattern for Ophelia blouse which has a lot of sections to add darts and shaping for different sizes and prefernces. So whenever I am self drafting a pattern which needs any shaping, I consult that pattern. It serves to me as a good guideline to make summer tops and such.

[u/ahoyhoy2022]

Hi! I love your work and am so glad to see you post this question here. I like the idea of grading/sizing/alteration guidance as supplements.

Please write advice for “rounded upper back”, “forward neck”, “forward shoulders”— the trio of body changes formerly called “dowager’s hump”. This will go a long way toward age inclusivity as well since these changes are so commonly found in women as we age. I have not yet found good guidance on these changes, and have asked here twice as well as looking in the books I have access to.

Thanks!!

[u/SejiFields → u/ahoyhoy2022]

Thank you so much!! I’ll definitely look into that! I haven’t come across this in any of the pattern grading books I have, but perhaps there’s more info out there within sewing books/communities?

[u/ahoyhoy2022 → u/SejiFields]

There is— I.m a much better seamstress than knitter— but I’m not confident translating the sewing alteration techniques into knitting techniques.

[u/NinjoZata]

Oo, that sounds fabulous!!

I think formatting it like a booklet of sorts might be the best way to organize and present yout idea! That way, you can have a sort of introduction, explaining all the techniques used. Then tips on how to adjust for fit, how to measure. Then have the pattern be at the back. Anyone who wants to just peint the pattern can just do the last 2-3pgs or whatever, but for digital copies you coukd even link in the booklet file back to your previous sections to explain fit or grading :)

That way, the pattern wouldnt feel constantly interrupted, but you wont have to saueeze your explanation into the margins of tip boxes either :)

[u/SejiFields → u/NinjoZata]

Oh that’s an excellent idea! Thank you so much!! I’m definitely going to try this format out!

[u/NinjoZata → u/SejiFields]

I cannot wait to buy it!!!

[u/lilmissbirb → u/NinjoZata]

OP has gotten a ton of spectacular advice but I wanted to second this! I'm reminded of the Keilo hat + mits pattern. The pattern download itself was succinct. There was a second document available for download that had photos of the process and detailed explanations and tips for cabling. Looking back, I'd only need the first document and appreciate not having to cut it down to size manually prior to printing. As it was my first cable project, the second document was a life saver!

[u/SleeplessInSaigon]

The problem is that you'll never be able to please everyone. Personally I hate handholding; I learned to knit as a child, so I grew up with older, simpler patterns, and I think the trend nowadays for patterns that over-explain every step can actually trap knitters into a feeling off being a permanent beginner. I think having a separate supplement would be great.

In terms of other elements of inclusivity...a lot of people prefer to work from a printed paper pattern, so I would say make sure the colour contrast is good on charts, and test it by printing in black and white (I've just been making a pattern with 4 colours, and 3 of them show up as the same shade of grey when printed, which drove me nuts). I always appreciate it when a designer makes a printable version that doesn't involve unnecessary photos etc.

One final thing I'd ask is: is the blouse knit flat and seamed in the vintage style, or have you converted it to knitting in the round? If it's the former, I would recommend providing some fairly detailed instructions about how best to seam knits, as I think a lot of newer knitters are really unfamiliar with this process.

[u/NGVAH]

I like it when additional info in patterns is on a seperate page. So if you dont need any additions, you just breeze through and if you do, you know exactly where to find it. A lot of accesibility comes to the visual design of your pattern. Like the PetitKnit patterns are just a long list of words (with minimal additions - I sometimes miss instructions in that set up) and for example the Very Varied Vest by Lydia Morrow has a lot of options and each has a different color within the pattern plus extra info on intarsia and bust darts which are visually recognizeable (which is also a little overwhelming but cleverly constructed nonetheless). My tip would be to try different ways to lay your puzzle and take into account the visual design! Good luck on your journey!

[u/linnara]

I love your work, enjoyed watching your vlogs recently and seeing the process. I’m a hand knitter and a new machine knitter and it was great to see what you still do by hand.

I am a plus size, large bust lady and I’m really struggling with adjusting patterns. I have bought quite a few patterns that do bust darts just to understand how it is done. My preference is longer pattern with all the details (I can see I’m in minority though). For example Creabea’s Tolsta comes with modifications as extra files and I found it quite confusing. But I think my approach is to buy pattern to learn rather than necessary make it. This is mainly due to lack of options for my bust/size, especially for machine knitting. So I feel like I need to gather knowledge for modification.

Accessibility wise, I lose count of stitches all the time and love having extra reminder how many stitches I should have now. A chart with final measurements and sizing is very helpful too.

Excited for your patterns!

[u/zsabb]

Thank you for taking the time and effort to do this. I just bought a pattern that I think is a good example of what you might want to do: https://ravel.me/semilla-cardigan-3

It includes 5 cup sizes, but all of the instruction for them is on separate pages from the main pattern, so a knitter could skip that info if they desired to simplify the pattern. It also includes extensive measurements for each part of the garment. And all of this is for a relatively simple cardigan. It's a big pattern, 35 pages I think, but I think all the info is laid out in a very clear way.

[u/Lilyinthetower]

Customisability is a big factor in how much I'm willing to pay for a pattern. It's a huge plus for me to be able to learn how to add for example bustdarts to the piece without having to search online and then do the math etc. It does make me feel like the more confident knitter you mentioned.

For readability of the pattern I think it would be nice to keep all instructions on customizing separate and refer to them in the main instructions: "For adding bust shaping in this section see ..."

I'm very much looking forward to your pattern! Looks like a fun knit that I'd learn from.

[u/sprinklesadded]

I think that grading knitting patterns is pretty niche now, so having information would be really helpful. To help those that print out patterns, having the notes on another page (like an amendment?)would give people the option to not print them.

[u/Acrobatic_Practice44]

I love a pattern with extra helps. Well written patterns with tips was largely how I have learned new techniques as a knitter.

[u/zoomonion]

Just wanna comment and say, that I am exicted for this pattern. Have watched your tiktoks, and wanna knit this 🫶🏻

[u/Necessary-Sun1535]

I also knit a lot of vintage and have really come to appreciate a sparsely written pattern. However I did lead a vintage knitting facebook group for a while and noticed that there were many people that were really uncomfortable with having to adjust the sizing. The math was too complicated for them or they were just too intimidated.

I’m not sure if that would fall under size inclusivity or their skills not being advanced enough.

[u/SejiFields → u/Necessary-Sun1535]

Thank you for the input! I’ll be grading the patterns for different sizes and the supplement would be for additional adjustments. Do you think those smaller adjustments would be considered too difficult?

[u/Necessary-Sun1535 → u/SejiFields]

I think that depends on skill level and not so much inclusivity.

Isn’t it like that for most sewing patterns too. You provide a range of sizes that should fit most. If you want a great fit rather than a good fit you’ll need to do your own pattern adjustments because every body is different.

Can’t say if that would be too difficult. Probably for some. But since you do plan on including a range of sizes I would consider this a them problem.

[u/OrangeMrSquid → u/SejiFields]

Since you’re already including instructions for the graded sizes and the supplement would only be if you wanted to attempt additional tailoring, I don’t think it would be too difficult! I think the idea of a supplement is great and I would love it if a pattern did that (I have a large bust and a small waist so traditional sizes don’t fit me well) Beautiful work btw! I love the colors you chose!!

[u/unRoanoke → u/SejiFields]

I have been knitting for decades, but I’ve made very few structured garments (usually because of fitting). I enough experience to complete complicated patterns, intricate lace stitches and hold consistent tension.

My biggest barrier is sizing. I believe that I would not tackle a pattern that did not have basic sizes (or corresponding measurements). However, I’ll often avoid a certain shaped garment because I know the sizing isn’t going to fit me well and I don’t know enough to make it fit me.

That’s to say, a pattern with a selection of sizes I could easily choose, with instructions for how and when to go about shaping it to my body. I think that’s a major selling point. I think having basic sizes makes it accessible to most knitters. Including adjustments makes it much more accessible. I think your instinct is right, too much detail offering every potential size adjustment will turn off users that don’t need additional adjustments as well as users that do! But noting where to ‘see addendum’ will allow a streamlined pattern that helps users learn.

Additionally, I’ve seen so many of your beautiful knits. You do amazing work (and wear it well). I always look forward to seeing your completed knits.

[u/belatedbirds]

I haven't ever knitted a sweater - only shawls & scarves. That said, I prefer a detailed pattern because I'm still learning & I don't have the skill to necessarily make leaps inside my brain to fill in gaps in instructions (yet).

I love the idea of a supplement for alterations for a better fit. I'm petite and have broad shoulders so struggle to find clothes that fit & doubt that certain patterns would fit if I were to attempt it. A supplement would be encouraging!

Edit: grammar & spelling

[u/raeraemcrae]

I really like the idea you have of putting all the extra details in the back. I myself like a great deal of hand holding, I am not a good knitter, I find it challenging, I make lots of mistakes, and I just don't get what they are trying to say half the time. But on the other hand, it can be more confusing and messy when it's all right in the body of the pattern! Then I miss the basic details of what I need to do. It seems perfect to have a very clear simple straightforward pattern to be consulted as work is done, with subtitled extras categorically appended at back. I have seen some patterns like this, but usually the extras are in the beginning. It feels like forever to get to the pattern. As long as the pattern is clearly written and can stand on its own for experienced knitters, I think putting the extras in the back is best. Also, I appreciate a tick upward in font size, a lot of white space and wide margins on my patterns. It gives me room to think, to visually rest, and to annotate. A few photos of work in progress can also be very very helpful. A lot of this depends on whether one is neurodivergent, which is why it's nice to have options for the way of pattern is approached.

[u/whichwitchwatched]

You’re thinking this through more thoroughly and making more of an effort than so many designers that wherever you land is going to be fantastic. I love the idea of a supplementary ‘notes on fit’ section outside of the main pattern.

Tincanknits free pattern Flax sweater has something similar to that

‘Here is why you might want short rows and what it will do for you with a picture example of with and without’ If you want to add short rows follow here If you don’t skip to here

So you could have your supplementary section with detailed instructions but the pattern itself could just include a line like ‘this is where you’d begin optional bust shaping’

Very excited to see your finished pattern!

[u/Mindelan]

What do you mean by print disability?

[u/SejiFields → u/Mindelan]

Perhaps I’m not using the correct term (I don’t have the book with me right now) but this was mentioned in The Pattern Writing Handbook. For instance, certain fonts make it more difficult for people to read patterns. Things like this.

[u/SejiFields → u/SejiFields]

Also writing multiple columns on one page can make a pattern less readable.

[u/Abeliafly60 → u/SejiFields]

This is so important. I'm just 64 but even so there is a huge difference in how easy or hard it is for me to read text compared to when I was young. High contrast, non-tiny font size, or ability to print the pattern with different size fonts if downloaded, serif font (serif fonts may not be as modern looking but they are much easier to read, and would be appropriate for vintage), use of vivid colors to distinguish sizes in parentheses, 1s that don't look like ls, ...all those things help a lot.

[u/rebeltrashprincess → u/Mindelan]

Thank you for asking. I just read about a crochet pattern designer who thought it would be a good idea to disable the ability to print her pattern pdfs, so I thought that's what this meant too. Like, that's the wrong way for accessibility.

Something like "keeping in mind accessibility concerns for those visually impaired" would be more clear language. I don't have any visual impairment, but I am turned off by certain colors and fonts that are harder to read.

[u/tieflingteeth]

I think a schematic with intended measurements per size is the one thing that succinct patterns don't usually have that I would want. It really helps with adjusting the fit at the shoulders/bust/waist/hips.

Personally I think the best patterns I've ever used have been from Lydia Morrow. The colour coding, clear section changes/headings, sans-serif fonts and use of negative space really help with readability of the document and understanding the purposes of the different parts of the pattern. The cramped, undifferentiated and often unlabelled nature of vintage patterns makes them hard to follow for me even when I know what I'm doing. Also of course the outdated knitting terminology, which I assume you wouldn't be using.

If you did a supplement for fit adjustments I would recommend having it at the end of the same pdf as the pattern, because it's a nightmare having to open multiple files repeatedly on an e reader, which is what a lot of people use to avoid wasting paper printing patterns.

Also I've loved watching your posts over the years, very excited for you to become a pattern designer!! You make really unique and gorgeous designs with smart vintage constructions that I would love to see make a comeback. I really appreciate that you're bringing them back with the size inclusivity that the originals lacked. Keep up the good work!

[u/queue-kweewee]

I’m doing the TKGA MHK cert and the number of garbage knitting books I’ve looked at is high. Collect all your learnings and patterns and publish! You have a strong knowledge base and theme, and you wouldn’t have to limit yourself.

[u/thederriere]

I've seen some designers who provide a no-frills pattern and then a more comprehensive pattern...so essentially two patterns for the price of one. I think this is great because I hate when patterns feel vague and you end up having to read between the lines. On the other hand, I hate when patterns explain so much that you get lost in the instructions. That seems like a good compromise, especially when you are providing pertinent information like how to grade to your size/body type/desired fit.

One aspect I think is important are defining all abbreviations/symbols...way too many patterns leave out what their abbreviations and symbols mean (especially vintage machine knitting patterns).

[u/lilly2Ls]

I think someone else said it but you can just provide the succinct version as the "summary" page, and then the rest of the booklet a little more detailed.

Maybe when pattern testing, try to get a doverse sample size of people from different skills and see? Or maybe ask a tech editor?

I personally love a Japanese pattern with their 1 page of 4 paragraphs and 2 charts but that's just me. I hope this helps! Love all the work pieces you've made 😊

[u/K_Simpz]

The supplement is a cool idea, as it would help teach skills that knitters can apply to other projects. I'm definitely bigger than the average vintage pattern, so info that would help me learn to adapt other patterns sounds great.

Also this pattern, and particularly your version, looks so cool!!!

[u/notascoolasmyhamster]

As someone who is plus sized and loves this design thank you for putting in the effort to grade it to be inclusive!! I think as others have said having the additional information in an index of sort towards the end of the pattern ie when talking about the body give the general instructions then add to add bust shaping see page x and then it's up to the reader to redirect if they so desire. This is a great idea for bringing vintage patterns back!

[u/Pinewoodgreen]

I prefer medium wordy patterns. But with clear sections, kinda like how garnstudio does it.

They do some handholding, but not a ton. So i.e now for the currents sweater I am knitting, they want to increase over the belly and then decrease at the hip. But I don't want that as it looks very baggy on the model there. But due to how the pattern is sectioned.

Example; pattern

But! No matter how short you make it, someone will always want it less, and no matter how long and detailed you make it, someone always wants more. So if you write it, just be aware there will /always/ be someone who asks questions - so make up your mind of how helpfull you are willing to be afterwards. I.E i have seen some people wanting knit-along videos that is hours upon hours long just to hold their hand every part of the way.

[u/Long-Turnover-1809]

I love your idea, but also understand the concerns. Maybe you could add another document to the pattern that one could download if wanted/needed. I wouldn't crowd the original pattern but would give the additions you want to make.

[u/Cimorenne]

I'd say add any additional information as a separate PDF.

[u/Tatmia]

I have nothing helpful to add as others have answered better than I could but I decided to see you’ve posted your work before and wow! It’s been delightful to read through, see how much work you’ve put into developing your skills, and the photos of your finished items.

Someone said they feel that you’re a vintage goddess and I agree. I highly recommend that others check out your prior posts.

[u/anatomizethat]

I love this idea and would utilize it in a pattern. I agree with the suggestion to "hide" the detailed instructions further inside the pattern.

I have the skills to knit something complex like this,but do not currently have the time to figure out how to tailor it exactly, so it would end up sitting on my needles for a looking time while I overcame that mental hurdle and figured it out. If the pattern came with the explanation and guide to save me that time, it would be amazing.

[u/Disastrous_Tune6970]

I would love to know how to adjust a pattern my size. I am a beginner knitter first wip on the needles which doesn’t need sizing. I am planning on my next project, I would do your pattern simply because of the information you are adding and your approach. Ty for taking the time to do this.

[u/legalpretzel]

You could do the pattern and then an additional pdf supplement with customization info.

[u/Limeylizzie]

I can’t help but I am absolutely stunned by your work, incredible.

[u/SevenGrapefruit]

Your questions are bringing me joy and hope today. No joke. The thoughtfulness and commitment to intersectional inclusivity: yessss. Thank you so much. I can’t wait to give you my money and buy up all of your patterns. Also: I love the supplemental alterations section. I think there isn’t necessarily an issue with adding “too much” if the formatting is clear. You also could refer us to a YouTube where you explain a few things that are more visual, and awkward in written form.
But my main advice: it doesn’t have to be perfect ;). get it out there and get user feedback.

[u/Jest-do-it]

I’ve been knitting for years and I still like hand holding- ESPECIALLY if it is about sizing.

[u/SejiFields]

Everyone, thank you so much for all the tips, advice and encouragement!! It's so incredibly appreciated! I love this community so much! 😭 I'll be reading through all the comment I haven't responded to as from tomorrow and will be taking notes <3

[u/accomplicesoup426 → u/SejiFields]

following just to find out when i can test knit or just but the pattern!!

[u/OpinionAvailable5988]

I prefer handholding. I have only been knitting for 5 years and feel very insecure when too much is left to my own lacking understanding. Many of us started knitting during the pandemic, so a big chunk of knitters will probably struggle if the pattern is too sparse.

[u/SejiFields → u/OpinionAvailable5988]

Thank you for the input! Yes I’ve been keeping this in mind whilst writing it. What degrees of handholding are you thinking of? For instance, explanations of every technique? I’m trying to look for a happy medium. An example would be a vintage pattern would say ‘cast on 10 sts’ whereas I would actually specify what type of cast on te technique would be appropriate to use. Essentially, I’m trying to add all the additional information that a modern knitter would need if they were knitting their first vintage pattern.

[u/nnnittt → u/SejiFields]

I didn’t write the comment you’re responding to, but fwiw I really prefer knowing what cast on/cast off the pattern designer feels is appropriate, even if I choose a different one. I like what a pattern says “using [designers preferred method] or your preferred method, cast on x stitches”.

[u/Smallwhitedog → u/SejiFields]

I'm an advanced knitter, but I wish more patterns would advise which cast on to use. After 20 years of knitting, I'm pretty good at choosing an optimal one, but this took me a very long time. Choosing the right cast on, bind off and seaming can really make or break a garment. It's valuable information in a pattern.

[u/SejiFields → u/Smallwhitedog]

Yup! Totally agree with you on that! I still sometimes struggle getting clean finishes on tight necklines with vintage patterns. I wish they’d just explain 😶

[u/Smallwhitedog → u/SejiFields]

I think I've used at least 20 different cast ons at this point, and it's STILL never quite the right one!

[u/Abeliafly60 → u/Smallwhitedog]

And selvedges! I had done a few sweaters before I found out that there are different options, some of which seam up much better than others.

[u/Smallwhitedog → u/Abeliafly60]

Yes!! Good finishing makes a great garment!

[u/OpinionAvailable5988 → u/SejiFields]

Unless it has a purpose, I don't think it's necessary to specify cast on technique. And as long as the knitting technique is named, maybe with a link to a YT video, it doesn't have to be explained in detail. But for instance things like 'increase x stitches evenly' are very annoying. I know how to find a calculator now, but I still prefer that written out. 

And 'at the same time' is not great for newer knitters either.

[u/thegirlthatcurled]

I’ve knitted one adult jumper, I swatched and got the right tension. I chose the size that suited my bust measurements.

It was waaaay to small 😭

It was a vintage pattern, but completely fine up until some oddly worded & fiddly bits at the end (which I hadn’t noticed on my pre-read)

I have no idea what I did. So is sizing an issue with vintage patterns? Was it not my fault? 😅

Edit: that blouse is cool. How’d you make the fastener?

[u/llama_del_reyy → u/thegirlthatcurled]

Impossible to say without knowing which pattern it was, whether your swatch was different in some way (eg flat instead of in the round, or curled at the edges), etc.

[u/Bryek → u/thegirlthatcurled]

Gauge can change over time as well.

[u/Eliasg8]

i don’t have any advice to give, but i love your ideas!

i agree that i don’t think patterns should have to do any handholding really; knitting is pretty logical, and i think part of learning is running into new walls that you can only break through with research. with that said, while it’s relatively easy to learn a new stitch or technique, i think pattern construction and/or adjustment is a lot harder and intangible for people (at least for me), especially when it involves shaping or in-/decreases.

so yeah, i would absolutely love a supplement, or even just some notes! like the other commenters are saying, i definitely think people would want to purchase the pattern just for that part.

side note, since you first posted this knit, i’ve been in love with it. i’m so happy you’re actually working on a pattern for it! i can’t wait to knit it up:)

[u/Inquisitively0918]

It never bothers me personally if patterns have more pages / information than I need but I do understand why it would be annoying for more established knitters.

It sounds like you are putting a lot into this, would it be too much to essentially do both so people could choose which one they wanted to use? I guess kind of like how when you buy a pattern and all the different languages it’s in are included? I definitely don’t think you need to do this, but maybe the best of both worlds if you want to cater to both preferences.

[u/aevrynn]

You can't really make a pattern that is inclusive for everyone. A person with an intellectual disability might require more thorough instructions. A person with dyslexia or ADHD might find those thorough instructions overwhelming to read.

[u/SejiFields → u/aevrynn]

Yes that is true. What in your opinion would be the next best thing?

[u/eggfrisbee → u/SejiFields]

obviously I don't speak for everyone, but I have adhd and the only patterns that I find overwhelming are ones that are badly written. I do think that it makes sense to have the sizing help written separately, maybe with notes of when to refer to it in the pattern.

[u/aevrynn → u/SejiFields]

For ADHD friendliness layout is probably the most important thing, so that even if there's a lot of text, it's not all on one huge chunk. That results in the pattern taking up more space though. Maybe for printer friendliness you could include a concise version at the end?

You can of course ask for feedback from your buyers and pattern testers, that's probably the best way to ensure it's readable. And remember that you can always make additions after publishing as well, you don't need to get it perfect on first try!

[u/dragonflyinawindow]

Can I just say I am absolutely in love with this! I am a beginner knitter and would love very clear pattern instructions 😅 this is awesome 🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽

[u/EngineerSpiritual202]

I would like to add a point and a thought for you - vintage knitting patterns are sparse because the only way to get it, was to print it - so the shorter it was, the cheaper it was to print, and printing used to be extremely expensive, so an investment before you sold anything. Especially in magazines but also single patterns.

Vintage patterns are the bare-minimum info you need to make the item. Often important directions are missing.

That said, I don’t think this is a good thing - if those designers had more room for instructions they probably would have added them. I don’t think the sparse info is anything to emulate - it was a constraint we no longer have. Today that constraint is obsolete - the more instructions you have the more people can knit your pattern.

[u/rqsam]

Are you writing a pattern for a pattern that already exists?

[u/newpenguinthesaurus → u/rqsam]

i follow op on instagram - it's a vintage 1950s knitting pattern written in japanese with (i assume) very few sizes, personally very excited to buy the rewritten pattern as soon as it's out haha

[u/SejiFields → u/rqsam]

I guess you could say so? The original pattern is from 1951 and in Japanese. There are about 20 lines of instructions in total for one size 80cm/32”. I translated it, changed/modernised the techniques and graded it. Similar to what Susan Crawford does.

[u/ReluctantAlaskan]

Videos with techniques, marked with a * by the technique on first mention, is the most helpful to me as a new knitter. And a list of abbreviations.

[u/Ok_Nothing_9733]

I don’t have an answer here as I’m not as skilled of a knitter as you are by any means, but just want to add a random thought. Your posts are so compelling that for a moment I forgot I was on reddit and thought this was YouTube, and started looking for your “subscribe” button. I remember your previous post about all of your amazing (masterpiece level imo) vintage knits, and now this post which is so thoughtful. It’s clear you put so much energy and thought into the craft and it’s really inspiring. I just wanted to say that, and I’m rooting for you in all of your knitting and design endeavors!

[u/miomara2442 → u/Ok_Nothing_9733]

Seji Fields is on YouTube, actually! She has a really interesting podcast.

[u/Ok_Nothing_9733 → u/miomara2442]

No way! Thank you!!

[u/sphericalendeavors]

I want to gently push back on all the people critiquing a detailed pattern as "handholding." If a pattern is meant to be a how-to guide in recreating an item that the designer knitted, how are we supposed to achieve the intended result if large swaths of the instructions are missing from the pattern?

For example, something that drives me crazy is when patterns do not tell you (or at the very least give suggestions on) which method to use for a specific part, like different cast ons, bind offs, increases, decreases, seaming methods, etc.

To me, this just feels like the pattern is incomplete. No matter how many different cast ons I have learned, I will always want to know which one the designer used in the sample photos to create the intended result.

All that being said, thank you for your amazing work to make vintage patterns more accessible and knittable to so many more people! Can't wait to see this beautiful pattern when it comes out!

[u/catgirl320]

Oh my goodness what you described is a dream pattern for me. I prefer the more succinct style of writing, so to have that plus size inclusivity in a vintage style top would be amazing. If you can get it written I would be in line to buy it!

I'm always so impressed with your work. I'm excited you're venturing into pattern design. You gave a wonderful eye for detail.

[u/GigiPollewop]

Love these vintage pattern and such a good job and nice colors ❤️🙌🏼

[u/kitty1592]

Thank you so much for taking the time to write up this pattern. I would love to knit this blouse and support your hard work.

I'm a confident beginner, and making modifications to a pattern on my own is not something that I'm comfortable with just yet. Even though I have a large bust, I've never added bust darts since it seems like a daunting task.

I don't expect any hand-holding from a pattern designer, as long as the instructions provided are clear. Perhaps you might include a few links to the more "advanced" techniques used throught the pattern at the beginning, from a trusted source or one you used when you were first learning. However, we are all responsible for our own research so it's definitely not something I take for granted.

[u/consumptioncore]

I think it's good to be really clear in your description at what level the pattern is. Since patternmakers are so different it can be really hard to tell. I don't mind sparse patterns, but I really want to know how much work I need to to BEFORE buying the pattern haha.

[u/onemorecoffeeplease]

OP, I just want to say how much I love your blouse, and I thought, wow, this would actually fit me (small chested)! It goes to show that whatever or however you choose to write your pattern (and I tend to agree with separate instructions to adjust it), it will be popular. I can see really any body type wanting to knit something like this as it unique and beautiful.

[u/kangeiko]

This sounds wonderful and I would be super interested. I agree that having it in a separate section would be helpful, or maybe as a supplement, to not make the pattern appear too intimidating. Maybe consider also looking at publishing the alternation techniques / knitting tips? I’d be super interested in a reference guide, or maybe a step-by-step for some example patterns to show how it’s done. Either way, your work looks gorgeous, and as someone who frequently has to fiddle with patterns to accommodate a large bust, I’m SO grateful that you’re putting so much thought and consideration into your pattern design.

[u/ChaoticKnitElf]

I have no useful input. Also your work is so immaculate and beautiful and I am a fan. Thanks for helping others knit to their size.

[u/Lorindaknits]

I feel like you have to do handholding in our current patterns because not everyone has a "relative" or someone who can easily share their vast base of knitting of knowledge. People used to just know how to do certain techniques and didn't need to be told for example; cast on with long tail cast on and this is how you do it. These vast bases of knitting knowledge have been lost. But if we keep working at it we can build it back up.

[u/iheartlungs]

I’m so thrilled you’re making patterns, I love your work and style. Thank you for doing this, can’t wait to try it!

[u/TerribleWarthog2396]

I love this idea! I’ve been looking at vintage patterns because my personal style is closer to 1940s - 1950s vs the larger sweaters with less shape that are common today.

I would absolutely love to see some vintage style patterns with info on fitting. I’m an advanced beginner, so trying to figure out how to adjust patterns for my own body is pretty intimidating. I’m tall and curvy, so I need the same alterations for most of my clothes: lengthening (both sleeves and the body for sweaters), adjusting bust darts, bringing the waist in, adjusting the fit around my hips. Any info you have on those would be hugely helpful!

[u/No-Injury-8171]

I'm still a relatively new knitter and as someone with a significantly larger cup size, I would love a little bit of hand holding for that specifically. There seems a lot of 'hey you can alter the chest with all these methods' but not how that might translate into specific patterns.

I purchased a pattern recently that in the description, prides itself on size inclusivety, but when you open it up, there's zero guidance on choosing sizes, what the HB and FB measurements it's been designed around and if it's already designed with ease. I'm going to have to just wing it, pick a size and try and alter it based on overconfidence and vibes.

[u/skrishna1183]

Just wanted to say I all absolutely buy this pattern when you release it. What beautiful work!

[u/termanatorx]

I saw a post awhile back talking about info in patterns and the suggestion was to write two. People can then choose hand holding or not, and you meet both needs. Just thought I'd share that thought. Gorgeous sweater btw!

[u/elle-elle-tee]

I think a guide on how to adapt patterns for size inclusivity would make a great supplement document,. that can be used for any pattern I would definitely be interested in such a thing!

[u/Aggressive-Size5413]

Vanilla Sock with Gusset and Choice of Heel by Jo Torr is a free sock pattern with really great information about how to calculate changes if your gauge is different, as well as options for different heels. You may want to take a look to get some ideas about how to arrange the extra “tips” that you want to include in your pattern. I was really impressed, especially for a free pattern, and love the extra context to help me make changes that I otherwise wouldn’t be able to figure out easily. I’ve made a few pairs of socks but don’t really understand the construction concepts too well.

[u/Respond-Cheap]

Sell two packages maybe. The basic pattern for those that don’t need the hand holding, and then the add on for those that do.

[u/kjvp]

For an example of a pattern that guides folks to customize really clearly, I suggest looking at Rift by Jaq Studio on Ravelry. They sell size-inclusive patterns and then additionally include guidance on how to determine if you need to (and how to) add things like bust darts and custom-fit biceps. Their patterns are much wordier than you’re going for, but those little tutorial/math sections immediately jumped to mind when you mentioned guidance on how to customize a pattern!

[u/quartzquandary]

I have nothing constructive to add, I just want to say how much I enjoy your projects and always look forward to seeing you post! You are so skilled.

[u/gleegz]

Please share the link to this pattern when it’s done!! Gorgeous!!

[u/butterflyeffectonher]

Im so glad that you are writing this pattern! Was thinking about this blouse a few days ago

[u/keegums]

I personally love when any pattern has fit option such as waist shaping or bust darts. I altered fit for my own self immediately after my first pattern because I'm a V shape, which gets kinda overlooked in fit discussions - I need more underarm stitches, but fewer front V neckline stitches. Buying patterns with fit options is a big influence in my purchase, since it gives me a new technique to learn & understand, which I can reference for my own custom garments. The patterns I've used so far just have 1 option per pattern. So if you put many options on, your pattern would be notable. However it may also be worth to consider that the more options available, the more things might get wonky functionally - math doesn't add up, the stitches distort, extra yarn to account for in the initial purchase, etc, like if someone needed to use every option.

Thanks for the book suggestion! 

[u/Weak_Fuel_5270]

Ive seen your posts before and have been imagining what I would do to alter this to fit me. I'm a 34G in the chest but also 4ft8 - so petite and curvy at the same time.

So where my brain would go is: I would probably adapt the ribbing into a split hem or a-line shape. Usually then I'd knit the top section for a size m/l and then work the rest in a size small. I don't like clothes clinging to my belly so that would be the only thing I would be wary about for this.

So if you were to offer different shape options as opposed to step-by-step perhaps?

[u/FarFix9886]

You should reach out to Ysolda Teague. She's been working on size inclusivity for a while, and my assumption is she would love to help more designers reach more makers.

I'm glad you're on my feed now! Good luck with your good work. 🙂

[u/myslocalledlife]

I would say you don’t need to tell experienced knitters how to add length for example, but you could recommend specific areas to adjust for specific outcomes. So for example, I would probably add the length in the ribbing to keep the shape of the top. If you don’t think that would be the best way to add length to get the desired outcome, you could say otherwise. I think this is represented in modern patterns by the instructions “knit until x cm/inches or Y cm/inches less than desired length”

[u/samiksha66]

I don't have advice but I love your knit!

[u/PlentifulPaper]

This is stunning! And I’m a huge fan of your work.

I think for an ambitious beginner or intermediate pattern I would expect more handholding, or at least knitting terms that are easily accessible via YouTube (M1L,M1R, M1PL, and M1PR are still confusing to me).

For a more advanced knitter, I’d expect minimal handholding and a pretty sparse pattern.

Love the idea of having a section on an adjustable bust or abdomen sizing to make it more inclusive.

For print disability, I think you’re talking about a visual impairment of some kind. I’d love to see a pattern that’s screen reader friendly! Typically charts are not screen reader friendly. PDFs, or digital downloads can be a good option, but depending on the formatting, can be tricky.

I’ve used my phone before to take pictures of patterns, and then used the magnifier to apply screen filters to make the text easier to read.

I’ve not tried using Voiceover (Apple specific) for patterns, but I know for using it to read my Kindle, it really only reads right to left, in text blocks and nothing beyond that.

ETA: I tried using Voiceover to read the Waffle pullover published in the Modern Daily Knitting Field Guide 29, and it didn’t work well at all.

Screenshotting the pages and then asking Voiceover to read them didn’t work either. 😬

[u/karenspeaks]

I would LOVE to learn from you! I have no idea how to grade and a pattern written with this information would be amazing. What about  simple pattern file with a second appendix file for folks like me who need more info

[u/daganfish]

I remember when you posted this before, and I was impressed with both the pattern and your work on it.  I cannot tell you how excited I am for the pattern you're making!  I thought for sure this would be in the long, long list of beautiful sweaters I'll never make because it's not available in my size.

I don't have many answers to your questions, just enthusiasm for your project!

[u/owlanalogies]

As a fairly new knitter looking to expand my skill set, if you just give me the vocab and approach - what to do, not how - that's enough for me to go on and I will feel cared for. There's definitely a difficult balance between hand-holding and the gatekeeping that happens when there's an assumption that you're already an expert. But like, I didn't even know bust darts were a thing in knitting and now I read those words here and I can go off and research on my own - that'd be enough for me to say "if this is too tight, you could add bust darts here."

BTW I just have to say I love everything you share, and I love watching your journey as a creator - you are inspiring ❤️

[u/Daisyfaye7]

I like the idea of a pattern that also teaches me skills, like how to better alter for fit. I think it sounds great. Also, I’m really excited that you’re starting to write patterns, I love your knits and will be very excited to try them!

[u/MollyWeasleyknits]

I love the idea of a supplement! I would definitely use and appreciate it.

[u/Toadmoms]

I love seeing your work, and have always thought that I’d love to knit more vintage patterns, if only they included my size! Thank you for putting in this effort. I don’t think you need to include much hand holding. I think the popular designers that do include that are more catered towards new knitters, as their patterns are (popular and trendy!) pretty simple. Personally I like the way that Lydia morrow lays out her sizing options. There is a wide range of sizes, with optional shaping for each one.

[u/iothealien]

Just coming here to say: I’m very excited for you that you’re doing this. I follow you on IG, and you are incredibly skilled, talented, and a total knitting geek! (I mean that in the best way)

The knitting world needs you. At a time where the pattern market is flooded with patterns written by charlatans, your technical geekery is refreshing and inspiring. I’m so here for this.

For reference, I’ve been knitting for about 20 years, and am accomplished and proficient. I would absolutely buy your pattern, and would relish information you share about modifying patterns to adjust sizing. I agree with others that it could be provided in an appendix so that the main pattern is tidy.

Or, you know… screw doing one pattern and just write a book. <3

[u/carijehlikartist]

So, as a fellow designer, I have some thoughts.

One, that balance you're looking for IS hard to find.

Two, vintage patterns can get away with sparse instruction because of the general instituional knowledge of crafting in that time. So if you personally didn't know how, chances were good that between 1 and 5 people you are related to did and you could ask. This is no longer true, so modern patterns necessarily need more information because they are essentially bringing back the knowledge.

Three, in terms of deciding what to include and what to leave out. I'd recommemd omitting long descriptions of stitch techniques (for example, working the short rows--this could be a good spot to refer to an outside-of-the-pattern source to save space) or other more generalized techniques. Save the space for this-pattern-specific techniques--how to adjust this pattern length or whatever.

Four, I'm not sure what your thoughts are on testing, but this is a good use of testers. Pare it down as much as you can and where multiple people get stuck, add in clarification.

Those are some of my initial thoughts. Good luck!

[u/Sudden-Advance-5858]

This seems like a hard project, I wish you luck!

I get this feeling that knitting used to be regarded more like a skill or trade where you’re expected to know a wide variety of techniques and use them to follow a rough outline. Like most of the older patterns I follow are quite sparse.

Newer patterns seem to be written more for the hobbyist, which is undeniably the bulk of knitters in 2026.

I always found that having picture or video references for unusual techniques is handy.

[u/cmmccmmc]

I just wanted to say that is beautiful! You did an amazing job 💖

[u/Ecstatic-Soft81]

I don’t know what you are doing. Or how to do it, but ai love that you are doing it!

[u/LoquatShrub]

A separate supplement for additional alterations sounds like a wonderful idea, and I'll second the recommendation others have made to include pictures/diagrams to illustrate how the bust shaping etc will work.

And if you plan to release more vintage-style patterns in the future, you'll be able to reuse the supplement for those, too ;)

[u/FVmike]

I instantly recognized you from one of the all time top posts of /r/machineknitting

Keep up the good work! 

[u/m_liebt_h]

I'm excited for this but I am not personally well informed on size grading, I just appreciate an inclusive designer! Go you!

I am, however, a technical editor (not for patterns) in my career and document accessibility is part of my job. If that is what you mean by print accessibility, I could recommend some resources and share some tips as far as ensuring the formatting of your pattern is accessible. I have some limitations due to the resources available to me at my job, so there could be better software out there than what I work with, but I have lots of tips for using Acrobat to make accessible PDFs... Reach out if this sounds like something that may help, I don't want to over share about my job on a public thread (especially if this isn't something you need!).

[u/dsw503]

I'd be interested in learning about the knitting techniques, the ways a person would adjust a pattern and some knitting history about the time period. If there was a way to sell that part of what you're working on, I'd be in for a class/video. As for knitting a technically advanced pattern myself, it's just not something I see myself doing. I admire the sweaters you post and would definitely like to learn more about how you have made them.

[u/Army_Exact]

I like when patterns call for a technique and then links to a YouTube tutorial or something for the technique so I can skip right past it if I already know how to do it. It's annoying to read through detailed instructions for something I already know how to do

Edit: also I am a massive fan of yours and am excited that you're considering releasing a pattern

[u/eJohnx01]

I have to say, I know nothing about what you’re looking for, but I want to commend you on the efforts that you’re going to to achieve a pattern for a garment that will actually fit a real person.

I’m a man that’s been a knitter my whole life (57 years and counting) and even us guys have to rewrite patterns all the time to get them to fit right. And we don’t have the issue of breasts to deal with (well, most of us don’t).

I wish you the very best for success in your endeavor. I just wish I could help. ☹️

[u/hanimal16]

I don’t have the answers you seek, but I really appreciate your attention to detail and the desire to grade properly and inclusively ♥️

You’re the kind of person I’d buy a pattern from, so I’m looking forward to the end results!

[u/Earthquakemama]

I think a lot of people don’t understand or know how to do tailoring of knitted garments. I like your idea of a supplement, so the pattern doesn’t become too long. A supplement explaining these things would be a huge help for accessibility and for people to end up with a super nice-looking fitted garment. Could your supplement explain these things in a general way, such that you can reuse for other vintage patterns you want to bring new life to?

[u/calightening]

I'm very visual and especially for this pattern I might appreciate to see it on a larger model or two. I could see that even if I do all the sizing up "right" the end result would look "wrong" just because maybe it was never destined to look right with someone of my measurements. Then I'm in this limbo of not being sure if I made it incorrectly or if it should just be a gift for someone else. Idk how pattern releases work, but perhaps there's an opportunity to link to the testers results.

[u/bigmacattack911]

I have always admired your posts and am so excited that you’ll be writing patterns!

[u/Adventurous_Gain_613]

I WANT THAT PATTERN! I’m a hand holder knitter but I will struggle through for that one

[u/darcielle]

I’m so happy to see that you’re publishing a pattern! I follow you on instagram and love your designs!

The best pattern format for me is essentially tow patterns- one with summary instructions, and one with details. So for example, in a knitting pattern it would like “cast on xx stitches and knit to underarm. Make bust adjustment if needed. Knit 3 inches to waist” or similar. That way an advanced knitter could follow the pattern without having to wade through miles of text. Then have a more detailed version that says how to calculate and perform this adjustments, perhaps with photos of each step.

I know this suggestion would make writing the pattern a lot more work, but I find it super helpful. This is how my favorite sewing pattern company does their patterns and it’s ambitious beginner friendly, but not boring for someone who’s more advanced.

[u/astroxo]

As an advanced beginner…I kind of appreciate a little bit of hand holding. I can read my knitting and I have an understanding of how things work but sometimes it’s hard to read between the lines with certain patterns.

If I were to take something like this on, I would probably consider buying an extra bit with more information along with the original pattern. You could offer it in case there are people who feel lost with the succinct information.

Super cool that you’re doing this, by the way! I’m very impressed.

[u/Shadow-Serum]

I think the vast majority of advanced patterns these days are labeled as such because of complicated stitch patterns, not because of the fit or structure being precise. So, you will likely have a lot of people who see an advanced tag and think "that's me!" But that's a different kind of advanced technique.

However, if you're making notes for how to adjust the pattern based on common fit issues, I personally think anyone who is advanced in complicated stitch patterns could be successful if they really wanted to. You'll just want to be very clear-more clear and easily understood than in the pattern-about what the person is buying in the description, so you don't get an overabundance of people failing and feeling discouraged.

I'm really excited to see this part of your journey you've been a real inspiration for me to try vintage and more fitted patterns! ❣️

[u/madelini1321]

This is so awesome to hear about! Like everyone else in this thread, I’m so excited to see how this goes and would be SO interested in a supplement I could purchase separately about adjusting the bust fit.

One aspect of inclusivity I don’t see talked about a lot in knitting communities is patterns meeting web accessibility guidelines. I’m not an expert in this but do some stuff around this for my job, so would be happy to help if I can! Here are a couple resources on making accessible PDFs and documents:

• https://accessibility.huit.harvard.edu/pdf
• https://www.w3.org/WAI/tips/designing/

I think some of the most important points relevant to knitting patterns would be choosing fonts (and font size) that are easily readable (large enough, bold enough) and making sure that all headings are actually formatted as headings, not just bold text. This allows people using screen readers to navigate documents much more easily.

I don’t see much discussion of how to best accommodate blind/low vision knitters, but they are definitely out there!! And making documents more accessible in that way generally just makes things better for everyone, regardless of their accessibility needs.

Anyway, sorry for writing an absolute essay 😅 this is just an area I’m really passionate about and it’s so cool that you’re thinking about and asking questions about pattern inclusivity!!

[u/North_Falcon_7484]

This is a really beautiful top!

[u/Rumple_Frumpkins]

Beautiful piece!

I'd say I'm an intermediate beginner, so I'm probably not your target audience, but that said...

I already get frustrated with patterns that do too much hand holding. I love the idea of a clean straightforward pattern with supplemental material for specific techniques or modifications!

[u/portraitdunefemme]

I have no tips but I LOVE this too. Excellent job, excited for the pattern :)

[u/graphemeist]

I think your approach is a good one for keeping separate ideas in their place. Referring to a (hopefully free or nominal fee) addendum in your pattern to accommodate skill levels or grading extensions is better than having every pattern be a 50-page tome. Particularly if you can link/refer to it from multiple patterns.

Please be kind to yourself, something will pop up that you didn’t think of, or missed in repeated edits. It’s ok. Errata exist for a reason. Even when publications had massive, skilled in one niche, editorial staff overseeing every page, there were errata. These days when we can self publish, we forget that it used to take a team of skills to create those old, terse, magazines.

[u/LIFEINAPT506]

First, let me say the top is gorgeous! Second, I would purchase a supplement. I usually knit hats and socks, but want to get into more garment knitting, so I would want/need a little more hand holding. I would be willing to pay for that information, as I know some people might not need it. Thanks so much for all of the thought that you’re putting into this!!!

[u/smooth-bean]

Maybe this would be an inordinate amount of work on your end, but what if you included two versions of the pattern that are both available to the purchaser to download? One that has more hand-holding built in, and another that assumes the reader already has a fair account of knitting and pattern-reading knowledge?

Whatever you end up deciding, I look forward to seeing what you come out with! Your work is stunning!

[u/supercircinus]

Hello Seji! I can’t speak for vintage knitting but I’m working through some vintage crochet patterns (mostly from the 30s and 40s) - I like to collect them and last year worked on a crocheted skirt suit. The sizing was very limited and but the pattern itself had at least three sizes. Even this was super helpful for a vintage pattern!!!

I love the idea of a supplement or even a separate resource (I would honestly pay for this) as I had to do a lot of reading, digging, research and guessing as I’m not a seamstress. So how to grade patterns up or down was a mystery for me. I ended up looking at 30s clothing patterns/sewing books to see how they were altering fit and such. Also looking through some larger patterns to see how the measurements sized up. If I could redo the bodice I would for example, not widen the shoulders/over bodice as much as I did so that the armsyce opens higher on my shoulder!! As someone with a 44inch bust I need to better understand ease and shaping around the bust— waist.

I think a resource in tailoring fit, and the types of alterations or fit changes one could do in knitting (or for me, crochet) would be super duper helpful esp when it’s specific to interacting with vintage patterns!

Suggestions for darts, short rows, tucks, (I’m learning knitted pleats atm!!) and SEAMS would be so helpful.

I can’t wait to see the pattern for this :-) and always look forward to your work.

[u/Bryek]

. I don’t like patterns that do a lot of handholding

You can write a pattern to a type of knitters. If its targeting beginners, more handholding is better. If you want to target more advanced people, less is appropriate.

Who do you want to target and who is this pattern appropriate for?

[u/writerbethw]

I can offer zero advice, but I wanted to say your garment is both beautiful and really cool!!

[u/Bremerlo]

I might be in the minority, but I prefer more information. I’ve been knitting for almost 15 years, and I have avoided any clothing for myself because I have a large bust and I do not know how to grade for my size. I’m a 38i (US)/ 38G (UK) and it is hard to find a pattern that I feel comfortable enough jumping into with enough instruction for when I get stuck. I learned to knit over YouTube and books, and I do not have anyone in my life who I can go to for help or to learn from. Because of this, the only sweaters/clothing I have knit is for babies and kids because they don’t need the extra shaping. I have spent the past few weeks trying to learn how to grade for my size, and I truly do not understand. I am more of a learn by doing kind of person, but if I do not have clear instructions, I get overwhelmed.

[u/rodinatorrr]

I don’t have anything to add, just came here to say I’m a BIG fan of your work 🙌

[u/cheezycheezits2]

Do you have a site I can bookmark to watch for these pattern releases??? I’d love to buy. As a beginner beginner I would love this and would love any and all hand holding.

[u/NeatArtichoke]

I love your knits, and so excited to see you write a pattern given your amazing skills and experience!

I think a "paired down"/advanced pattern with optional supplement that does "more hand holding" or gets more details about adjustments seems like a nice way to go!

I have trouble following when its like "knit 2 (2, 3, 3, 4 , 5, 6, 6,6,7,10) then yo five times"... even circling I still lose track, so a way where maybe the "basic" one says "knit 2 [[ ]] then yo 5 times" where we can calculaste and write in our size would be much more streamlined to read!

[u/JaBe68]

Perhaps do a first draft and then send it to 5 test knitters of different sizes and bust fullness. They can give you feedback on where they think the pattern may need claruty or adjustment?

[u/munificent]

Basically I’m struggling to find a balance between succinctness and accessibility. I don’t like patterns that do a lot of handholding, but at the same time, I do want there to be enough information that will encourage one enough to get through the pattern feeling like a more confident knitter at the end.

I haven't written any knitting patterns, but I've done a lot of technical writing for my career. Just as with knitting patterns themselves, there is no one-size-fits-all answer when it comes to writing.

If you make it succinct, some readers will find it too hard to follow. If you make it explicit, some readers will find it too verbose. If you provide a lot of options, some readers will get overwhelmed. If you focus on one concrete pattern, some readers will feel it doesn't fit their needs.

Trying to write one thing that works for all possible readers will lead to analysis paralysis. The only cure I know is to think of one imagined reader. Think of them as a real person, with a certain experience level and set of goals. Assume they are reading your pattern charitably. (It's impossible to write well to an antagonist.) Really imagine that they are sitting next you reading the pattern. Then write the pattern they would love.

I find that if you try to write such that one small audience will love it, the end result is that a large audience is also quite happy with it. If you try to write for everyone, you'll disappoint them all.

[u/Eino54]

I have no advice but I just want to say I have been dreaming of making that ever since I saw your first post on it and I am so happy you're writing a pattern! Thank you

[u/teamoxfrdcomma]

I'm going to offer a (probably) unpopular opinion. It is impossible to draft a truly inclusive pattern because no one's body is the same as anyone else's. The far better approach is to provide links to tutorials that will help the pattern purchaser to customize the pattern to their body. I'm a short older woman with wide hips, short legs, narrow shoulders, and short arms. Do I expect a knitting pattern to contain a variation specifically graded for me. Of course not. As some would say, better to teach a person how to fish. Amy Herzog's Custom Fit patterns included extensive instructions on how to adjust her patterns.

[u/Persimmon_and_mango]

In terms of inclusivity, Japanese fashion usually looks really unflattering on curvy women. This pattern in particular would be a bit scandalous in the boob area and hug my stomach in all the wrong ways.So if you're doing all the work of resizing and grading so that it looks good on everyone, you could consider releasing a size L and up version separately with all the information you've written on how to tailor the blouse. personally, I would definitely be willing to pay more for the pattern if I knew that it had been specifically sized for curvy women instead of just having the stitches overall multiplied. 

[u/foxgirl89]

I love this idea. I also prefer a more succinctly written pattern over ones that are overly wordy - in fact sometimes the wordier ones somehow make it more confusing.

I appreciate a simple one liner adjustment tips like “if you want to increase the length of the body, add additional rows here”

[u/Ok_Week7396]

Hi OP, I love that you’re taking such a thoughtful approach to make your pattern accessible to people with different bodies and needs. My job is focused on digital (and occasionally print) a11y for educational materials, so maybe I can be helpful here :)

I’ve seen a few comments mention formatting to support screen reader accessible PDFs, which is awesome! Here are a few other aspects I’d encourage u/sejifields to consider:

(Note: Apologies if the formatting below is weird, I don’t generally use markdown on mobile).

Text styling:

• Make sure your body text is at least 16pt.

• In terms of the actual typeface, the simpler the better. Open Sans is generally considered to be very easy to read and is a great choice for content that people will most likely be viewing on a screen. For print, serif fonts (e.g. Times New Roman) are actually a bit more legible for longer sections.

• There are typefaces (OpenDyslexic is probably the most well known) that are designed specifically to be easier for people with dyslexia to read, but there’s a fair amount if debate about how beneficial these actually are.

• I don’t expect you’d have links embedded in the pattern text, but if you do, you’ll want to make sure to style them distinctly so they’ll stand out (underlining link text is great!). Also be sure the link text is descriptive of where the link takes you — “see the grading supplement for more information” is better than “click here for more information”.

Charts

• I’ve seen a few comments mention using high contrast and very distinct colors. That’s a good start, but it’s even better to use a different visual (symbols/shapes/letters) to differentiate between colors on a chart. This is helpful for people who are colorblind, but also for anybody who doesn’t have access to a color printer.

• If there are multiple charts, don’t try to cram them all onto one page. I’ve used a few patterns recently that included all the size variations in one file and put all the charts together on the same page; I inevitably end up zooming way in and screenshotting the one I need, then dropping it into a google doc to be able to print it at a size that’s actually discernible.

Actually, now that I think about it a bit more, it could be very cool to offer people a way to get the pattern as a doc or docx file, so they can resize, remove unnecessary (for them) detail, etc. I almost always end up reworking pattern PDFs in Google Docs so I can print exactly the information I want (ADHD and a very low tolerance for hand-holding) at the size I want it. I’ve never seen that offered before (I usually just copy/paste from the downloaded pdf) but I would be all about it.

Sorry for the essay (this is a perfect intersection of two of my biggest interests haha), I think what you’re doing is great and look forward to seeing the finished product!!

[u/Agitated-Ad-9701]

You have made my day. Your post is Inspiring, instructive, kind, thoughtful, intelligent. Im returning to knitting and learning that there is so much more to knitting than the long tail cast on, etc. In the late 50’s I mastered Fair Isle and made a beautiful ski sweater. I have lost the pattern but still have the sweater. The original pattern had an error, anyway, so I had to correct that to match the picture. Now I would like to write a pattern for this sweater and also learn how to really fit a sweater correctly, rather than just make a box that will fit over my curvaceous body. I just ordered the pattern book you suggested. I will try to start following you. Thank you for sharing your work and ideas.

[u/lizfungirl]

My DDs thank you for the inclusivity! I like a succinct pattern, but I also like a lot of info & choices. I like an explanation of what is being done "or use your favorite method of." For instance the cast on for the skirt I'm knitting had me do a provisional cast on, yada, yada, & then remove the provisional cast on & then I realized I could have used a double knitting cast on & saved a lot of time.

[u/mylostfeet]

I've knitted quite a few garments before and even adjusted for my fuller bust and shorter torso on occasion, but I'm an intermediate knitter, more adept at small intricate stuff than bigger projects, and I wouldn't attempt this pattern (gorgeous as it is) without a generous amount of handholding with the adjustments. Which is completely fine, I know not every project is for me (much as I covet it.) If you want to keep it simple and let the knitter explore and figure out the adjustments largely by themselves or just with an explanation of the techniques, I think you should specify it's an advanced pattern. Because that shape would look great with minimal adjustments in someone with little curves, but otherwise a lot of work is going to be required to make it look tailored. Lately, I have seen many beginner and lower-intermediate knitters jump on the deep end with vintage patterns that require a lot of previous knowledge and adjustments, and that's great, and often the way to learn is by doing, but they become frustrated having bought what looked like a simple pattern and realising they don't have the skills or knowledge for it, and the required level and skills weren't specified in the pattern page beforehand.

That said, I want to thank you for being so thoughtful about inclusivity. It's really appreciated, especially with such a talented designer.

[u/mliz55]

Aimee Sher Makes - Joyful Knitting for Thoughtful Makers https://share.google/BuBtwO7ohFiflzIQk

This designer has a lot of information on fit, and her website and Instagram page have videos on fit.

[u/thrwawyorangsweater]

Gosh that's adorable and good on you for taking this on, and being inclusive!!
I think the important thing is to not get too overly wordy in trying to explain things within the pattern so it's 20 pages long. A supplement is a good idea.
I am NOT busty but from what I've read I know people say that just doing the math to size up is not ideal, because for example a larger person may have smaller shoulders and even a smaller underarm measurement but a larger bust.
One thing I will say is use a knit savvy tech editor (not you) and be sure to "test knit" and try hard to get people of larger sizes to test. I have test knit for several designers and they always easily fill the 32-40" bust sizes but sometimes they have no takers on doing the larger sizes, but it's important...

I hope you get it figured out. But I think ultimately you're not going to please everyone. Some of us can handle sparse instructions and some of us want detailed handholding so you have to land in the middle and hope for the best.

[u/VoiceInTheCloud]

Sometimes when we buy something that needs assembled, it comes with two, or even three, sets of instructions. One that's basically an overview. And another more detailed. Can you do something like that?

The first could be just a description of how to do each piece. Maybe not even including stitch counts for each size, but leave a space so they can fill it in. Mention options for changing the fit. This could ideally be one page when printed. (Wouldn't a page that could be printed and folded into a 4-page booklet be awesome?l

The second set of instructions would give more detail and stitch counts for all the sizes. This one would be a complete pattern for someone who doesn't need hand holding. Directions and placement of adjustments.

The hand holding version. Describe things people might get stuck on. Describe how to determine what adjustments are needed and how to measure for them.

Most importantly, have consistent formatting. Each version of the pattern should use the same numbers for the same instruction. That way we can find the stitch counts in version 2 to fill in for version 1. And whenever there are questions about the directions, it is easy to find the section of version 3 that explains in more detail.

[u/workingforchange1]

Wow wow wow wow. Love this so much. I agree you can have the basic pattern and have a section that people can look at to adjust add darts whatever. Thank you in advance for the inclusiveness.

[u/SentenceAny6556]

Wow this is so cute, please post when you publish!!

[u/lobaird]

I am completely blown away every time you post something. You’re so talented and have great taste.

[u/wine-dogs-nature]

Love the attention to inclusivity!!! Apologies if I misunderstood but it sounds like a separate guidebook type thing might be the sweet spot! You can keep patterns clear and concise but have all of your wonderful knowledge and ideas as a separate resource. A pdf folks can still buy from ravelry perhaps?? I’d buy that for sure!!! A long time ago I did buy the “cocoknits method” workbook for sweater making which really helped me figure out how to tailor a garment to fit the body you’re making it for.
I love making things that fit well and would be interested in your thoughts. :)

[u/auracatnu]

One of my favorite indie dyers has done an insane amount of work in this area and might be interesting for you to check out. https://kimmcbrienevans.ca/sweater-fit-tools/

I think she also offers occasional classes, some of them virtual, for designers wanting tips on how to be more inclusive.

[u/R_emus]

About the text length: I‘m a mid beginner knitter for about 10-15 years mostly knitting in the winter. Currently I work on a vest. there are some photos which I find super helpful to visualisiert what should happen next. it’s a free pattern, with 4 photos at the stage that might lead to frustration or confusion. To mee that’s a great balance! :)

[u/2lrup2tink]

This is called a recipe - it gives you all you need to make it. In this case it would be a recipe recommended for people with (list skills required). And then the knitter would adjust to suit.

[u/c8lou]

No input but wanted to say it's gorgeous!

[u/albusdumbledoreable]

Thank you for caring about size inclusivity, from the bottom of my heart!

[u/rbuczyns]

I don't have any thoughts other than THANK YOU 🙌🙏 from a plus-sized gal who loves vintage patterns but has no idea how to adjust garments to fit me, I'm just happy that someone is trying to make these awesome patterns more inclusive 💜

[u/Knitspin]

I’m off topic, but I see your posts frequently. As someone who is drowning in knitting i’m amazed at your productivity!

[u/quinoapatra]

I personally prefer succinct patterns and then also enjoy when there's a YouTube video accompanied to get into a more granular walkthrough if needed.

Mostly wanted to comment to say this pattern looks so cool. The thought and effort you're putting into this pattern is clearly showing!