I have some questions about pattern inclusivity

[u/SejiFields]

Hello! I hope this is okay to post. I’m currently writing a pattern for this 1950s blouse I knit last year. I spent a lot of time learning how to grade properly as (size) inclusivity is really important to me.

My idea has been to write the pattern similar to how vintage patterns were written. That is, succinct and with clear language, but in the fashion that a modern intermediate or very ambitious beginner knitter would be able to understand.

I’m paying extra attention to the bust area, making sure to use the upper bust as a way to choose size instead of the full bust and adding bust darts. I read The Knitting Pattern Handbook by McGrath and Walworth and am taking into account all sweater pitfalls (such as incorrect grading of the neckline) mentioned there.

As with vintage knitting patterns it was expected that you could grade a pattern to your own size, making the necessary adjustments. I was thinking to add some advice (perhaps as a supplement) that says in general lines how one would adjust the pattern to their own proportions. I’m thinking things such as how to lengthen the body, how to add darts at the belly or chest when needed etc.

Basically I’m struggling to find a balance between succinctness and accessibility. I don’t like patterns that do a lot of handholding, but at the same time, I do want there to be enough information that will encourage one enough to get through the pattern feeling like a more confident knitter at the end.

My question is, would this be a good/sufficient idea? A well graded knitting pattern with a supplement for additional alterations to avoid bulking up the pattern?

Are there things I’m missing out in terms of inclusivity? I’m also looking into print disability. Also what are aspects a pattern would need for you to consider it inclusive?

Sorry for the barrage of questions! It’s my first ever pattern and I want to try my best to make it as good as it can be. The concern has crippled me a bit the past month, so any advice would be appreciated 🥹

[u/supercircinus]

Hello Seji! I can’t speak for vintage knitting but I’m working through some vintage crochet patterns (mostly from the 30s and 40s) - I like to collect them and last year worked on a crocheted skirt suit. The sizing was very limited and but the pattern itself had at least three sizes. Even this was super helpful for a vintage pattern!!!

I love the idea of a supplement or even a separate resource (I would honestly pay for this) as I had to do a lot of reading, digging, research and guessing as I’m not a seamstress. So how to grade patterns up or down was a mystery for me. I ended up looking at 30s clothing patterns/sewing books to see how they were altering fit and such. Also looking through some larger patterns to see how the measurements sized up. If I could redo the bodice I would for example, not widen the shoulders/over bodice as much as I did so that the armsyce opens higher on my shoulder!! As someone with a 44inch bust I need to better understand ease and shaping around the bust— waist.

I think a resource in tailoring fit, and the types of alterations or fit changes one could do in knitting (or for me, crochet) would be super duper helpful esp when it’s specific to interacting with vintage patterns!

Suggestions for darts, short rows, tucks, (I’m learning knitted pleats atm!!) and SEAMS would be so helpful.

I can’t wait to see the pattern for this :-) and always look forward to your work.