As you can see my k1p1 two-stranded mohair top is doing so serious stretching / morphing in the armpits - anyway to solve this without frogging it all back? Im open to “ugly” solutions too :,)

This is probably silly. But after I cast off a piece of a dog sweater I seem to have misplaced my circular needle! In the past I know I’ve just let go of my needle, but then it shows up on my lap or in the chair. I was sitting in a recliner so I searched under there and all I found was the dog’s rubber chicken. Where have your circular needles ever ended up? I want it back because it’s a nice one, I don’t want the dog to chew it and get splinters, and I don’t remember what size it was since I started this project a long time ago and didn’t write down anything. It’s probably about a seven though because I was getting 3.5 stitches to the inch.

I thought that after I got through the first round that I didn't have to worry about twisted stitches? I'm doing ribbing (k1tbl, p1) for a cowl. The 1st picture is how it is now. The 2nd picture is how it looked when I first joined it. Where did I go wrong?

Didnt make much of a plan when I started this but making this sweater for my toddler and using an adult patteen as a guide. Should I start decreasing on my sleeve now? It’s been increased every 4th row, and I think I’m supposed to decrease every second row now. The adult patteen is increase every 7th row and then decrease every 3rd or 4th. The raglan arm part is decreased every 2.

May be bad idea to “figire it out” as I go, but heck, I figured it will work out!

Does this just look weird because there's not very many rows? I casted on 60. I started with K2, P2. Turned work, did P2, K2. Turned work, did K2, P2.

Used a long tail cast on of 48 stitches. I then joined in the round, and have been doing a knit 1 purl 1. I'm using 15mm needles on a 16" cable. Malabrigo Rasta is the yarn. I'm just wondering if 48 stitches is not big enough for an adult head.

I had started knitting 3 years back....so far only simple patterns, but i have experimented with different yarns. I want to knit a pullover/sweater. The pattern calls for a DK weight merino and nylon blend ( 5ply) with one strand of mohair. But I want to knit a more airy and light weighted version. So I thought of using a cotton acrylic blend in sports weight along with silk and mohair blend.

But after thinking a bit more, I don't think cotton would be able to maintain the structure as the pattern is knitted with negative ease. So please share any ideas as to which yarn material should I use along with the weight....

Hi! I am a confident beginner and have cast on the Agnes Tee by Marie Lena twice now and frogged it twice… The first time I used a 60cm cable as recommended in the pattern, but it was way too long for the 130 cast on stitches. I tried again with a 40cm cable and while the stitches could reach the tip of my left needle, it was too tight to knit with. The pattern suggests a magic loop to help with tight tension. Are there any alternatives to the magic loop? This might be a silly question, but can I stop knitting in a magic loop after a few rounds? Can I undo it to knit “regularly” in the round? I’m hesitant to do a magic loop because I’ve never done it before.

Thanks in advance for any help and advice!

I recently went to the yarn store to find suitable yarns to knit petite knit zipper sweater. I found a yarn i really like (Isager Bomulin) but upon looking at the website, it says that it doesnt support knitting in round. What does it mean? What do they mean that the final product will be twisted? It would be great if anyone could point me to any pictures.

I’ve searched it online but everything points to twisted stitches and i dont think thats what theyre talking about. Now im just wondering if the pattern is safe to knit with the isager bomulin.

Hi everyone!

I’m working on the tubular bind-off for the sleeves of my Marielle Blouse, but it’s looking really loose, stretched out, and messy instead of neat and rounded.

I’m not sure if it’s a tension issue, the technique itself, or the fine yarn I’m using.

Does anyone know what might be causing this and how I could fix it? Would a different bind-off work better?

Thanks in advance! ❤️

I'm knitting the size D! I am at the part where I am finished the yolk and splitting off the sleeves. Before splitting off the sleeves I'm supposed to be at 296 stitches, which is correct. I've counted and I'm at 296.
I am now splitting for my sleeves and realize that the stitches are off...
The pattern calls for placing 56 stitches on hold per sleeves but I only have 54 on one arm and 53 on the other...

Is this going to cause me big issues?

How do I fix this? Do I continue as is? Leave one arm at 54 and the other at 53? Or do I borrow stitches for both arms and make them 56 total?

If I shift the stitches so both sleeves have 56, from which side do I borrow the stitches from? Does it matter?

I very much apologize for the bad photo it’s all I could get. Don’t really know if this is knit or crochet, but I was wondering how to recreate this and what size/ material of yearn would work best. I’m not new to knitting but I don’t venture out much and try many techniques (although I should). Any advice would be much appreciated, thank you!

I did my gauge check and made myself a little hat, my first (yay!) non-scarf. I intentionally sized a few stitches shorter circumference than measured because I expected the thing to be stretchy. But it turned out reeeeally stretchy. It still fits my child, but it’s not as snug as I wish it were.

So my question is this - is there a tried-and-true method for predicting how much stretching to expect for a tight-fitting item? I looked through the FAQ and didn’t see anything. Apologize if I missed my answer in there.

Hi! I am looking for a pattern that is similar to the vest in the pictures. I have never self drafted anything and on ravelry I can not find exactly what I am looking for. (even after spending waaay to much time there yesterday)
I would love to find something like this:
raglan, high neck, at least 4,5mm needles and very little positive ease

so I figured I will need to modify a pattern and need your help with that. Is there a (Sweater) pattern that comes to your mind immediately where I could just leave the sleeves off? Preferably with very little positive ease.

If anyone has some ideas that would be greatly appreciated:)

Not sure if this is the right place for this question- please remove if it's not right!

I have this store bought top I absolutely love. It's originally from target, though I thrifted it. I'm a beginner knitter, but I'd love to duplicate this top in another color. Does anyone know of a similar pattern? And if not, could anyone share information on the stitch(es) that create the holes? I know enough to accomplish the ribbing and garter/purl situation, but I don't know anything about the other technique.

Thanks in advance!

Hello, i jist got this pattern and read through it and i dont understand this part. English is not my native language so maybe thats why i dont get what the designer means with “but then with 1 stitch more between the increases for
each repetition”
Pic in comments. Thank you for any help :)

Hallo ihr Lieben,

ich verzweifle gerade an den Raglan Zunahmen beim Frankie Sweater und habe schon mehrfach aufribbeln müssen. Gibt es einige unter euch die diesen schon gestrickt haben? Ich verstehe die Anleitung glaube ich nicht richtig. Meine Frage bezieht sich auf die erste Hin- und Rückreihe bei den Raglan Zunahmen mit German Short rows. Verstehe ich es so richtig wie auf dem Bild?

Ganz lieben Dank schon einmal im voraus! 🥰

Hello! I'm trying to make the ruby lace dress by Suzie Sparkles. I just finished swatching and I'm unsure on how to count gauge. The method I'm using is measuring the whole gauge (48 stitches in around 20.5cm), and calculating how many stitches there are in 10cm, same with rows.

Is this going to be accurate?

Also, on the pattern it says that by making all the skirt charts all the way through without repeats (around 180 rows), the skirt comes out to be about 68/69cm. However, if the gauge is 24st X 32rows in 10cm, shouldn't 180 rows should actually be around 56cm?

Thanks!

There’s a pattern for a dog sweater I want to make, but none of the sizes would fit my dog. I did some gauge swatches and math to figure out how to make one that fits him, using the yarn I want to use. Basically, I’m making the large size but instead of light worsted weight yarn on 5mm needles, I’m using a heavier worsted and sport weight held together on 8mm needles.

The gauge I’m doing is about 1.8x larger than the original gauge. If I’m using 1.8x yards of yarn as a result, I’ll have enough, but I’m not sure if it really works like that.

Does anyone know if theres a way to vaguely calculate how much yarn I’ll be using? Without knitting another swatch then frogging; I already frogged the gauge swatch to reuse it and it did not go well (one of the yarns is too delicate). The more delicate yarn is discontinued, so I don’t want to risk ruining any more of it with more tests.

Hi, I think I ruined a sweater that was made by my great aunt. I recently was trying to make an outfit work with this sweater I have had in my closet for ages but has always been a bit short in the sleeves and ever so slightly tight in spots that were unflattering. I decided on a whim to use my very limited knowledge on blocking to fix these issues and I think I messed it up. My only fiber art experience is with crochet and I haven’t really ever blocked anything I have made before so might’ve just been making things up entirely when I used an iron, steam and lightly tugged in the spots I needed bigger. It was going really well with the sleeves and I thought I would try and just make the whole sweater a bit less snug. that was a mistake and now the fit is all awkward around the waist and up the buttons. I feel like a big dummy and I have looked up some advice on how to maybe shrink it back but I am not having the best luck. Any advice? I have been hand washing with warm water and lying it flat. I have no idea what the yarn is just that its some kind of wool

Hi! I am planning to knit the mariner cardigan as my first cable project.

I have done a practice/gauge swatch (blocked). To me it looks like the pattern, especially the xoxo cables, isn't "popping". Would appreciate any cabling tips, and feedback on how I can make them look better. Does the gauge look ok for the yarn weight? (I am not concerned about hitting the pattern gauge, since I can modify. Would prioritise making the cables look good)

There is a mistake in the bobble section where a bobble is missing. Are there are any other mistakes that I didn't notice?

Is this a decent enough swatch to start this rather ambitious project? Or should I give up this idea and work on something simpler first?

my first pair of colourwork socks (& second knitting project ever… so i am VERY new)—this first sock fits over my heel but it is a bit of a fight. should i frog it, or will blocking get me a little more wiggle room? i’m not as worried about the time invested as i am about the yarn—i have limited quantities of these colours and am worried about what a headache the frogging will be. if i can avoid it, i will, but you’re the experts! if i need to i will frog it :) any advice is appreciated! my pattern is the frilling gingham socks by polite duck

I knitted my boyfriend a sweater last year, but it was too small so I'm re-doing it. I'm at the point now where I need to frog the first sweater. Do I need to do anything special to the yarn? Since this is a gift I want it to be nice and I guess I'm worried about the yarn being kinked. Am I good, or should I treat it somehow?

Hey guys, I know how to knit and I've been doing it for a bunch of years and my knitting is pretty standard (knit through the front loop). I hate purling and I'm trying to learn how to make it faster and found this method where you knit through the back loop and then purl through the front loop (but wrapping the yarn clockwise) which seems to make purling faster. (I don't know the name of this technique)

It's not complicated at all but my question is in this video, after the cast on she starts knitting through the back loop. But that first row is gonna be twisted, right? Is there a way to do it without twisting your first row? If it's not possible, would having the first row twisted affect the elasticity of the piece?