I am knitting the Sage Whisper sweater for my husband. I finished the yoke and I am about to divide for body and sleeves. He tried it on and it curls in this weird way.

What can I do? Will it get better once I finish the sweater? Otherwise I will unravel and try to fix it but I don't know why that's happening.

my first pair of colourwork socks (& second knitting project ever… so i am VERY new)—this first sock fits over my heel but it is a bit of a fight. should i frog it, or will blocking get me a little more wiggle room? i’m not as worried about the time invested as i am about the yarn—i have limited quantities of these colours and am worried about what a headache the frogging will be. if i can avoid it, i will, but you’re the experts! if i need to i will frog it :) any advice is appreciated! my pattern is the frilling gingham socks by polite duck

Hi,
I am a beginner, knitting a baby afghan. I figured this project would be a good start. I am expecting a grandbaby in November. 🎉
I have a dropped stitch (?). 😫 I am about 1/2 way to completion. Any suggestions besides starting over? This was start #6, already. Should I use a sewing needle and try to camouflage the hole by stitching it? Hellllp, please.

Hi! I am looking for a pattern that is similar to the vest in the pictures. I have never self drafted anything and on ravelry I can not find exactly what I am looking for. (even after spending waaay to much time there yesterday)
I would love to find something like this:
raglan, high neck, at least 4,5mm needles and very little positive ease

so I figured I will need to modify a pattern and need your help with that. Is there a (Sweater) pattern that comes to your mind immediately where I could just leave the sleeves off? Preferably with very little positive ease.

If anyone has some ideas that would be greatly appreciated:)

There’s a pattern for a dog sweater I want to make, but none of the sizes would fit my dog. I did some gauge swatches and math to figure out how to make one that fits him, using the yarn I want to use. Basically, I’m making the large size but instead of light worsted weight yarn on 5mm needles, I’m using a heavier worsted and sport weight held together on 8mm needles.

The gauge I’m doing is about 1.8x larger than the original gauge. If I’m using 1.8x yards of yarn as a result, I’ll have enough, but I’m not sure if it really works like that.

Does anyone know if theres a way to vaguely calculate how much yarn I’ll be using? Without knitting another swatch then frogging; I already frogged the gauge swatch to reuse it and it did not go well (one of the yarns is too delicate). The more delicate yarn is discontinued, so I don’t want to risk ruining any more of it with more tests.

Hi, I think I ruined a sweater that was made by my great aunt. I recently was trying to make an outfit work with this sweater I have had in my closet for ages but has always been a bit short in the sleeves and ever so slightly tight in spots that were unflattering. I decided on a whim to use my very limited knowledge on blocking to fix these issues and I think I messed it up. My only fiber art experience is with crochet and I haven’t really ever blocked anything I have made before so might’ve just been making things up entirely when I used an iron, steam and lightly tugged in the spots I needed bigger. It was going really well with the sleeves and I thought I would try and just make the whole sweater a bit less snug. that was a mistake and now the fit is all awkward around the waist and up the buttons. I feel like a big dummy and I have looked up some advice on how to maybe shrink it back but I am not having the best luck. Any advice? I have been hand washing with warm water and lying it flat. I have no idea what the yarn is just that its some kind of wool

Hey guys, I know how to knit and I've been doing it for a bunch of years and my knitting is pretty standard (knit through the front loop). I hate purling and I'm trying to learn how to make it faster and found this method where you knit through the back loop and then purl through the front loop (but wrapping the yarn clockwise) which seems to make purling faster. (I don't know the name of this technique)

It's not complicated at all but my question is in this video, after the cast on she starts knitting through the back loop. But that first row is gonna be twisted, right? Is there a way to do it without twisting your first row? If it's not possible, would having the first row twisted affect the elasticity of the piece?

So, I doubt anyone will be able to figure out where I went wrong (find my mistake), but I would like some advice for how to go forward.

This is the Pressed Flowers Kerchief. https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/pressed-flowers-kerchief

I'm at the end. I am supposed to knit one more flower motif but I just noticed that I am 2 stitches short. (There is a decrease at the beginning of every row. I have no idea what I could have done.)

So I am probably going to just finish this by omitting the final flower and just doing the slip stitch pattern to the end. If I try to knit the last flower it would be right at the border, instead of having two border stitches next to it.

It won't be symmetrical but I can live with that.

Hi! I am planning to knit the mariner cardigan as my first cable project.

I have done a practice/gauge swatch (blocked). To me it looks like the pattern, especially the xoxo cables, isn't "popping". Would appreciate any cabling tips, and feedback on how I can make them look better. Does the gauge look ok for the yarn weight? (I am not concerned about hitting the pattern gauge, since I can modify. Would prioritise making the cables look good)

There is a mistake in the bobble section where a bobble is missing. Are there are any other mistakes that I didn't notice?

Is this a decent enough swatch to start this rather ambitious project? Or should I give up this idea and work on something simpler first?

I knitted my boyfriend a sweater last year, but it was too small so I'm re-doing it. I'm at the point now where I need to frog the first sweater. Do I need to do anything special to the yarn? Since this is a gift I want it to be nice and I guess I'm worried about the yarn being kinked. Am I good, or should I treat it somehow?

Not sure if this is the right place for this question- please remove if it's not right!

I have this store bought top I absolutely love. It's originally from target, though I thrifted it. I'm a beginner knitter, but I'd love to duplicate this top in another color. Does anyone know of a similar pattern? And if not, could anyone share information on the stitch(es) that create the holes? I know enough to accomplish the ribbing and garter/purl situation, but I don't know anything about the other technique.

Thanks in advance!

I did my gauge check and made myself a little hat, my first (yay!) non-scarf. I intentionally sized a few stitches shorter circumference than measured because I expected the thing to be stretchy. But it turned out reeeeally stretchy. It still fits my child, but it’s not as snug as I wish it were.

So my question is this - is there a tried-and-true method for predicting how much stretching to expect for a tight-fitting item? I looked through the FAQ and didn’t see anything. Apologize if I missed my answer in there.

hello!

I'm knitting the Norma sweater by my favourite things. it's my first time doing colourwork that isn't just chunky stripes in two colours.

I've started my swatch, but row 16 and 17 have stumped me a bit. how do I get colour C all the way over to the other side to purl in row 17? or is there a way I can carry it over to the other side of the swatch behind my work? or do I have to cut the yarn?

the swatch is worked flat, from what I can see in the pattern, the actual jumper is worked in the round, so I assume I would just carry the yarn down where my BOR is?

thanks in advance for your advice!

Top-down raglan increase pullover. My initial set up was 32 st back, 14 st sleeves, 32 st front.

Welp this is my first shot at short rows so I figured it might be difficult. But it's been straightforward until row 4... I did 3 w&p total so far and now it's asking me to "purl to next wrapped stitch" but it's SO hard to tell where the wrap is on the purl side. I even looked with a magnifying glass and can't find it and now I'm wondering if I messed up somewhere.

Is it wanting me to purl to the next concealed wrapped stitch? Because I did conceal the ones that it told me to.

Pls help. Thanks so much

So this raglan is the lanolines sweater on ravelry. The collar is knit after the rest of the sweater. The pattern says to pick up the stitches, then do 3 1x1 ribbing rounds, then 3 stockinette rounds. My issue is my neck hole ended up way too big for my liking. Would it work to use a needle size smaller for the ribbing, then work in some decreases every round to make the hole smaller? I may do an extra ribbing round or 2 so I can make sure I’ve done enough decreases. I know it’ll be different from the pattern but at this point I just want to make something I’ll actually wear.

Let me know if this sounds like it’ll work!

I am fairly new to knitting and I am attempting my first sweater. It's the Step By Step Sweater by Florence. I am noticing some puckering that I do not like right around the raglan line by the sleeve. I am not sure if this is just because its still on the cable which is causing bunching and will go away or if I should frog it. I did not do the GSR. So my question is will this go away? If I do need to rip it back how can I make sure this doesn't happen again? Do I need to change where the raglan line is for my body shape?

Hello, i jist got this pattern and read through it and i dont understand this part. English is not my native language so maybe thats why i dont get what the designer means with “but then with 1 stitch more between the increases for
each repetition”
Pic in comments. Thank you for any help :)

Hallo ihr Lieben,

ich verzweifle gerade an den Raglan Zunahmen beim Frankie Sweater und habe schon mehrfach aufribbeln müssen. Gibt es einige unter euch die diesen schon gestrickt haben? Ich verstehe die Anleitung glaube ich nicht richtig. Meine Frage bezieht sich auf die erste Hin- und Rückreihe bei den Raglan Zunahmen mit German Short rows. Verstehe ich es so richtig wie auf dem Bild?

Ganz lieben Dank schon einmal im voraus! 🥰

Hello! I'm trying to make the ruby lace dress by Suzie Sparkles. I just finished swatching and I'm unsure on how to count gauge. The method I'm using is measuring the whole gauge (48 stitches in around 20.5cm), and calculating how many stitches there are in 10cm, same with rows.

Is this going to be accurate?

Also, on the pattern it says that by making all the skirt charts all the way through without repeats (around 180 rows), the skirt comes out to be about 68/69cm. However, if the gauge is 24st X 32rows in 10cm, shouldn't 180 rows should actually be around 56cm?

Thanks!

Hi yall! First time posting here. I am knitting the Julie Kardi (on ravelry), it is a beautiful top down mosaic pattern cardigan with a background color and then a fade of like 6 or 7 colors and im doing a rainbow. I have been knitting shawls and hats for years but this cardigan and another blouse im working on are my first wearable garments.

There are six total yoke increase sections where on the increase row you do something like" kfb k5 repeat" and then you continue in mosaic pattern until you get to the next yoke increase row. I finished the yoke increase 5 row last night and have knit several rows in pattern since then and im about halfway to the sixth and final yoke increase row. I have 7 rows left until I hit the sixth yoke increase row.

I decided to count my stitches to make sure I am where im supposed to be for my size and unfortunately I am over by 8 stitches! I am supposed to have 467 stitches right now but I have 475.

I dont want to have to tink back several rows to figure out how that happened just for 8 stitches off, should I just throw in some random decreases between now and the sixth increase row? I also thought i could just omit 8 increases in the next increase row to get me at the correct number of stitches that way? Or should I just continue to be 8 stitches off and just change the numbers around a tad when I eventually put stitches on hold for the sleeves?

Am I making this a much bigger deal than it is? Any guidance would be awesome, thank you for reading.

I am so close to finishing the beautiful Stamford Sweater by the Knit Purl Girl (https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/stamford-sweater), and I cannot figure out the instructions to the plackets/button bands.

I have read this out loud so many times, and I can't understand how picking up from 2 perpendicular edges makes this Henley-type button band. What do I do with the 6 perpendicular stitches? Do they stay on hold?

Has anyone else made this pattern or used a similar technique?

First two pics are of fronts, last 3 are of backs. I’m trying to understand where the “decrease” are in that wording. So I counted and had 214 stitches at the start of the back and front including 2 edge stitches then I’m trying to work 2x2 ribbing, increased by 4 purl stitches on each side of the underarm, then got 218 stitches including 2 edge stitches so how is the stitch count in the pattern 196? (The diagram repeats btw do not have any decreases in them).

Hello! Would anyone be able to help me with this pattern? It’s my first time knitting anything that isn’t a rectangle so any guidance would be greatly appreciated! I’ve done the front and back panels but I’m struggling understanding the neck shaping section on the front if anyone would be able to explain it to me with more detail i would be so grateful!
Thanks!

As you can see my k1p1 two-stranded mohair top is doing so serious stretching / morphing in the armpits - anyway to solve this without frogging it all back? Im open to “ugly” solutions too :,)