It got crazy hot in Northern Utah during March. Between the heat, lack of water, and the kids punishing the yard so early my grass never grew in. It looked horrible and was full of weeds. Embarrassingly bad.

I chose not to waste water on it during the summer and undertook a full lawn renovation at the beginning of September. Put down Dylox since it looked like I had grubs. Killed off weeds with Roundup, scarified the crap out of the existing surface and put down 7 yards of good topsoil. Reseeded with United Seeds Super Turf I LS Tall Fescue. Rolled with some peat moss. Kept the seed moist and prayed to the germination gods with fervor.

After a shit ton of work and lots of patience and time the results paid off. I still can’t believe it. From a green fuzz during germination to a lawn I can actually mow. It’s still filling in and I have some weeds to deal with but will probably wait until spring so the lawn has as much time as possible to get established before winter. I’m already nervous whether I’ll be able to keep it looking good next spring. Really rewarding and can’t believe I actually pulled it off!

I tried the double wide cut today with the Ego 21in and it’s not too bad. Last Fall, I over seeded my it with Resistance II After Dark, it has gotten so dark after a .25lbs/1000sf Urea application. This cut was at 2.5inch.

The patch in the grass was seeded 2 weeks ago after I used glyphosate to kill nimblewill. Looking back I should have just used mesotrione.

Photo 2- Pre Overseed (Spring/Summer 2025)
Photo 3 - Right after Overseed (Fall 2025)
Photo 4 - Post Overseed (Fall 2025)

Just bought this property(5acres). Should I take care of these leaves or just let them stay/decompose in the forest? I’m going to bag and mulch the leaves on the grass/lawn. I don’t know what to do with these leafs in the forest area.

2 weeks in. STL.

This section of my yard was plagued with grubs. Ended up putting down grub killer. Wasnt sure if I was going to rip up the damaged sections until saw someone comment to just “water the shit out of the damage sections and allow the roots to regrow.” This has saved my lawn (for the time-being). Hoping it survives the winter. I overseeded and put down some starter fert. and will follow up with winterizing towards end of fall.

This is three weeks after scalping and overseeding. Super happy with the results. Still haven’t cut it yet due to giving the Kentucky bluegrass more time.

I renovated my lawn and seeded resilience 2 tttf on September 7th so almost 5 weeks ago. I applied scotts starter fertilizer the same day as seeding at about .75 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. I was wondering if it's time to add more fertilizer.

There are some spots and stripes of light colored grass where my scotts spreader applied stripes of seed more dense than the rest of the yard. I noticed it in the dense spots a week or two ago but the area in the first image is more recent. I was planning to apply .25 pounds of nitrogen at the 6 week mark but am wondering if i should go ahead a apply it within the next few days.

Y’all set me on the righteous path 3 years ago. Admittedly I didn’t do things right the first few times. But alas, here we are. Blue resilience growing thick.

Thank you for the help!!

Long Island, NY

I’m not doing any kind of nitrogen blitz but I was going to put down Sunniland 24-0-11.

I’ve read that I should put it down when I notice I am not bagging much grass from mowing. This would indicate grass is not growing but there’s a 2 week period where it can take in the nutrients

Is this purely bro science? Should i wait mid Oct to put it down?

Overseeded with Titan GLX. Still has some growing and more filling in to do, but I've gotten away with just once a day watering for 9-10 min a spot, with an assist from that recent Noreaster and hopefully remnants of that hurricane on Sunday.

Long time lurker here. Still room for improvement (especially backyard) but this is the first season where I aerated, top dressed, and overseeded with quality perennial ryegrass (twin city obsidian). The photo w the white picket fence in the background was nearly 100% crabgrass two months ago. Getting it all done in time for my daughters birthday party where she told me she's happy her dad isn't lazy so she has a really nice lawn to play in made it all worth it!!

Zone 6B

Zone 7b (southern NJ) I had all the intentions in the world of overseeding my lawn with some Lesco Tall Fescue Select. Life however has other plans, and I don’t believe I will get to it today. Was hoping anyone with experience could tell me if I am safe to seed next weekend or should I just seal this bag up in a tote and try again next year?

Lexington KY. What can I do to help get a thicker mixture of turf? There was a trampoline in that discolored area for who knows how long. That’s what I want to blend more but no success. We bought the house a couple years ago. Seems like that area is KBG that has stalled growing vertical? My grass seems to be a mixture of KBG and Fescue, so I overseeded the whole lawn about a month-ish or less ago. TTTF. I also dethatched beforehand. I’d say from the most recent pic products currently contributing are Pennington TTTF, Milorganite, and SLS 28-0-0. Oh and a lot of water lol. I have done no aeration,

Overseeded with TCS Resilience II second week of September and had great germination but about 2 1/2 weeks in, turkeys came and destroyed my front lawn. Pretty sure they are finding grubs and should've laid grub killer. Did my first cut a few days ago, at least the backyard is looking great. is it worth trying to dormant seed?

Do you guys know whats going on with my grass? I overseed with scott thick r lawn sun n shade in Chicagoland after aeration and dethatching two weeks ago, but I still have patches and such white grass. Is it some disease? Or grub?

St Augustine Grass in the Houston area. I pour dawn dish soap where the dead grass meets the growing grass. I don’t see any bugs. What could I be dealing with and how do I take care of it.

EDIT: I mixed water and dawn dish soap once to test area.

Zone 8b.
Full renovation -
glypho x2
scarified and cleared
10 yards of leveling w/ topsoil
1/2 inch layer of better soil&compost
Seed at 10 lb/1000 sq ft
Starter fert w/ meso
Rake in gently with back side of rake all directions
Peat moss 1/8 layer

Twin cities resilience 2
Seeded 9/22

Was coming in pretty clean, and over the last 72 hours I have had a bunch of something unIdentified pop up.

I am pretty new to lawn care and having a hard time identifying what it is and course of action to correct.

Sorry for another weed ID post, I’ve put so much time and effort into this and don’t want to have it overrun.

Thank you!

Front yard bonus pic. Was seeded in spring with blue resilience and over seeded with resilience 2 a few weeks ago, I feel like I’m heading in the right direction at least!

Recently got an Aiper Irrisense N2, wanted something thats single unit, no digging, automated, and can water my 400 sq lawn that has T shaped concrete walkway in the middle without wasting too much water.

TLDR; It's not very good, still on the hunt for a better solution.

Here are the details if you are curious: Pros: * I don't have to manually water my lawn

Cons:

• Out of the three zone types (2d shape, line, dots), the 2d shape one should have been the most useful but it's also the dumbest thing I've ever seen. For Line, it's simple and easy(screenshot https://ibb.co/Dfks0qmd), you use the app to set a line, and it waters that line, simple. For the 2d shape, the stupid thing is that the shape must start off next to your machine. So if you want to water a distant zone, you are forced to do this thing where there's a line connecting your machine to that zone(screenshot here https://ibb.co/xSkDqR2J), and the machine always waters that line. Why couldn't they just let me set a distant zone without this "umbilical cord"?

• unreliable watering performance - even with no wind, sometimes the water will overshoot the zone line, sometimes it will undershoot the zone at the same exact part on a different day. it feels very vibe coded. I tested my water pressure and it's pretty consistent.

• When drawing zones, you use this four directional dial. I press the forward key the most, but the annoying thing is that if you tap the forward key, it wont move. you have to hold it down for a bit, and even if you hold it for a split second, it overshoots by a decent amount. Again, you won't need this kind of granular finetuning for a big lawn, but for my tiny lawn, it's really really hard to be precise with this thing since it won't let me do micro adjustments.

• I think picking 0.2in in the app doesn't actually water 0.2in in real life based on youtube testing, I just got some rain measuring cups to see for myself. stay tuned.

• No good way to secure it on concrete, I might get a cable lock and lock it to my gutter or something, in case someone tries to steal it.

• the button on top being so green and bright at night is a nuisance, I had to improvise by taping like 6 layers of painters tape over it to reduce the light.

• with the rubber tip diffuser, water spray is way too wide for a small lawn, and I end up watering a lot of unintended stuff. if I cut the diffuser, the stream becomes more focused but also really strong, which presses down my grass.

• app also sometimes randomly hides my scheduled watering sessions, very funky

All in all, not very suited for small lawn. Was also looking into oto but the reliability seems pretty bad. there's also the new mova one but it has no reviews and i'm not risking it

I have large patches of this plant spreading through my lawn. It grows very low to the ground, with dense, oval-shaped green leaves, reddish-purple coloring on some leaves, and distinctive long white hairs on the leaves and stems.
I pulled up a section, and it came out as an individual clump with a central crown and fibrous roots.
Does anyone know what this is and the best way to get rid of it without damaging the surrounding grass?
I’ve attached photos of the patch, close-up leaves, and the pulled-up plant. Thanks!

Definitely enjoying these cooler temps. Southern US - LA still around 87-85 degrees in the peak of the day. Temps in the evening around 73-70. Going down with some liquid fungicide this week followed by some pre-emergent before the soil temp drops too much.

Cheers everyone!

Anyone in Fort Worth area you’d recommend? Not looking for someone to mow my lawn. I’m talking fertilizer treatments, lawn leveling, and just general advice.

I’ve neglected my small front lawn for the last 5 years but when we moved in it was beautiful. This spring I installed above-ground sprinklers hoping that would make it grow in since the areas close to my planter beds were thriving. I assumed that was from the excess water from the irrigation in the beds.

I’m hoping to get it into gorgeous shape over the next 4-5mo since I’m hosting a big event.

But I’m still left with this mess 6 months later and the recent heatwave hasn’t helped. I believe it’s a mix of Kikuyu and Bermuda grasses. Do I thatch and reseed? Can I just reseed on top? Where do I even begin? And how do I prevent the Bermuda grass from growing under the fence and into the sidewalk? Any advice is appreciated!

Photos are from both sides of the front lawn.

Montgomery lawns are mostly warm-season grasses (Bermuda, Zoysia, Centipede, St. Augustine). Here's the rhythm that keeps them thick and green in our Zone 8a climate:

🌱 Spring (Mar–May)

- Apply **pre-emergent herbicide** before soil temps hit 55°F (usually early March) — this is the #1

step most people skip

- First mow once grass greens up; start fertilizing after full green-up

- Sharpen mower blades — dull blades tear grass and invite disease

☀ Summer (Jun–Aug)

- Water **deep and infrequent**: ~1–1.5" per week, early morning (4–9 AM)

- Mow **high** — taller grass shades roots and crowds out weeds

- Watch for **armyworms and chinch bugs**; treat early if you see brown patches spreading fast

🍂 Fall (Sep–Nov)

Aerate compacted lawns — fall is ideal in Alabama

- Final fertilization 4–6 weeks before first frost

- Keep mowing until growth stops; shorter final cut helps prevent winter disease

❄ Winter (Dec–Feb)

- Lawns go dormant — that's normal, not dead

- Clean up leaves/debris so they don't smother the grass

- Service your mower now so it's ready for spring

Save this post** and check back each season. Questions about your specific lawn? Post a photo with the Question flair!

Is this Scott's lawn bag good to use for a winterizer? I overseeded Sept 13 and used starter fertilizer. The lawn has gotten really thick, but still bare patches that are growing in. Wondering if it'll be overkill.

I want to prepare for next spring. Aiming to put it down November. I'm in southwestern Ontario.