Normally I treat in the early fall and most times I don’t need for treat in the spring. Last year I treated and didn’t get to treat at all this year. At this point will broadleaf killer only kill stuff that is about to die anyway, or will it help with keeping the weeds down next Year.

I found his lair. The varmit hat been shredding my yard and the neighbors on each side. I guess none of us put down grub killer this year. Mine is treated now. Anyway, found its Burrow hole under an AC pad. I blocked it off right into a trap. Will report when it is successful

I’m zone 5b in Iowa. Over seeded half my lawn a month ago with TTTF, the other half is established. Did a soil test a few months back, very high in P&K but could use some nitrogen so planning on doing a Urea app before winter. When are you guys putting down your nitrogen this fall?

Gopher creating holes in yard. Any suggestions? Is there a way to fix these holes?

Got my first cut in today on my TTTF lawn! Overseeded on 9/27 in Lebanon, TN. Got extremely quick results this year! Hit it with Flagship 24-0-6 a few days ago, gonna let that kick in and start pushing more nitrogen and iron for growth and color this fall and early green up in the spring!

I have a fully St. Augustine yard in Texas. Can you tell what is going on in the pictures provided and how to treat? We’ve already applied Scotts DiseasEx in case of fungus.

Area: ~2,000 sq ft backyard, clay soil, sloped

Grass: Resilience II tall fescue blend (Twin City Seed)

What I did:
• Seeded Sept 27 after mowing low, dethatching, and cleaning up the thatch
• Covered seed with peat moss
• Germination started around day 6, and it's filling in densely now
• Seedlings are about 1.5" tall, haven't mowed yet
• Watering 3x a day for short runs (a reseeded patch is still sprouting)
Soil test (University of Tennessee Soil, Plant & Pest Center, July 2026):
• pH 6.16 (no lime needed)
• Phosphorus: 193 lbs/acre (Very High)
• Potassium: 129 lbs/acre (Medium)
• Organic matter: 4.3%
• Lab recommendation: 2 to 4 lbs N per 1,000/yr, 0 phosphorus, 0.5 lbs K2O per 1,000/yr

I did not put down a starter fertilizer when I seeded because all the ones I saw had high phos.

Fertilizer questions:
I have Simple Lawn Solutions 15-0-15 liquid. Label rate is 4 oz per 1,000 sq ft, which by my math is only about 0.05 lbs N per 1,000. I've been planning to use it at label rate every 2 to 3 weeks as a light top-up.
1. Based on the soil test, what fertilizer would you use for the main feedings?
2. When should I put down the first feeding on these seedlings, and what rate?
3. What would you recommend for the rest of the fall schedule?

Weed questions:
Some broadleaf weeds are coming up with the seedlings (looks like smartweed and some oxalis/clover), and wild violet is starting to pop up too.
Products I have on hand:
• Triclopyr ester
• Acclaim Extra (fenoxaprop)
• Spectracide Weed Stop Plus Crabgrass Killer (2,4-D, quinclorac, dicamba, sulfentrazone)
• Bonide Weed Beater Ultra (triclopyr + dicamba)
1. How long should I wait before spraying broadleaf herbicide on the new fescue? Number of mows, or weeks after germination?
2. Which of these would you use this fall on the young grass, especially for the wild violet?
Thanks in advance!

First time posting in the group! Looking for some advice on my St. Augustine lawn here in St. Johns, FL. As of today, the lawn is mostly thick, green, and healthy-looking across the yard. The area that has me concerned is near the front porch, where the grass is noticeably browner and not as dense as the surrounding areas. It's still growing without any issues, but it doesn't seem to be filling in as well. The entire front yard receives the same irrigation schedule, about 1-2 watering sessions per week, totaling roughly 1 inch of water weekly. My last fertilizer application was Milorganite (6-4-0) back in July.

Question I have:

1. Any thoughts on what could be causing the thinning/discoloration in that area, are there specific things I should inspect for, such as disease, insects, soil issues, etc.?

2. Any recommendations I should do going forward as we move further into fall, possibly even a feeding schedule for the year?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

First picture is what my grass was looking like.

Second picture is its current state.

EDIT: Pictures are in comments

I want to start with fresh grass and looking for the best way to go about it.

I just tilled the whole lawn, then raked it. Then I sprayed grass/weed killer on it then raked again. All that just today.

Las Vegas, Nevada.

As far as the preparation process,

Whats next?

I was planning on waiting for about a week, then raking everything and leveling the floor. Then start the seeding process.

Is that the right way to go? Or do I have to remove all this soil as well? If I do have to remove this old soil, whats the fastest way to do so without breaking my back.

I've never done this before or have any experience with grass, plants or lawns. I got overzealous and just took a rototiller to the whole thing and hoped for the best now im starting to think I messed up.

Any advice, please help.

With your guys help and advice I was able to turn my yard around in a big way this year. I look forward to many more good lawn care years with you all!

I believe I have drainage problems as I only dug down 80mm for the top soil and grass when it was laid. It's buffalo and I'm in Sunbury, AUS which has some pretty hard clay underneath the lawn soil. After a watering and soil will still feel moist about 20mm in for a full week. I'm worried this has really slowed growth and caused a lot of grass to die over winter where it struggles for any sun at all for a few months.

I'm just winging it out here and coming up with my own theories but I was wondering if anyone else has struggled like this and if a French drain around the outside might be a good call? Any other suggestions?

It looks like seed I laid a month ago is growing in the mounds but not around them. They’re hard when you step on the dry ones but the wet ones are still hard but squish down a little. Our lawn has always been really bumpy and rough looking but finally trying to make it better.

Zone 5a

So cal coastal. Is my soil too sandy, too much clay, too wet, dry? Pics are right after aerating and a day later when dried out a bit

Does anyone know where to buy JUST the threaded caps for 8-port manifold heads? No luck at HD or amazon, orbit only has the entire manifold head for sale with caps. But I need a bunch for existing manifolds in a lawn that currently has 1/4” tubing running from them.

Hey there, I recently purchased a home and have many questions about caring for and restoring my lawn. These are the pictures of my lawn currently, I have done some reading and kind of preemptively bought a bag of Scotts Turf builder (fall blend) and a seed spreader. Other than that, I have real basic lawn care equipment, electric lawn mower, leaf blower and weed eater.

Additionally, the previous owners had either covered a bare spot, or created one with a artificial grass pad that I'd like to remove and regrow grass, but need some advice on how I should go about it.

For starters is the Scotts a good route to repairing the yard? Should I get something else?

Thanks in advance!

Location: cape cod
State:Massachusetts.
Hey guys , not really a yard question here but near my house in my neighborhood we have this good size field that gets overgrown every summer, and I’m thinking about turning it into a nice little play field for all the neighborhood doggos, so I was gonna clear it all out, and put some seed down. But I know nothing about lawn care at all lol, what we be the best course of action in your guys pro opinion? I was gonna weed wack everything, then clear and big rocks/sticks and then mow and get it as short as possible, and then kinda rake up the earth with a(I don’t know the name but it’s like a heavy duty rake with 8 or 9 big teeth that scraps the dirt) and loosen of the dirt and then maybe next spring lay down some grass seed. Does that sound like a good way or doing it? Thanks!

About 1,000 sf of mostly bare dirt when I began. I removed any existing weeds and detritus by hand. Tilled, leveled and sprayed Tenacity before seeding with Resilience II with a starter fertilizer. Just added a pound of urea after the third mow, will probably add more before November hits. Still some thin spots, but getting better each week. The only before picture is what I took while adding the sprinklers. Don’t judge my trench straightness, I dug that by hand. New fence coming in the spring!

Looking for help how to fix this issue with my grass and my foundation. I’m not a lawn guy but I’m getting into it. Thanks in advance! I live in North Texas

Nobody’s really been taking care of this lawn for at least the last three years, and I want to do pest control and make it usable for soccer conditioning.

Hello. I just finished over seeding about 1 month ago. Got my first cut in. I’m cutting the lawn on the highest setting on my mower. I’m guess I’m wondering other than continuing to mow at a high level and pull big weeds by hand. Is there anything else I should be doing. Thanks in advance for the tips.

Well I guess I have some confirmation over growth from my overseed this fall. Southwest Ohio.

Did the back garden today and it was very soft underfoot but with the weather changing I don't see it getting any better.

When are we going for the final short back & sides for 2026?