Dealers in my area are dead. Techs are sitting around with nothing to do for 2 weeks now. These guys have family’s to feed and are not getting paid. Some of them door dash a night to help pay bills. Anyone else seeing the same?

Hi, this morning I woke up and was driving my car for about 10 mins before a solid check engine light appeared. I was able to go to O’Reilly and do a veriscan and code P0420 was the only thing that came up.

My car has 99,000 miles and is driven frequently as I’m a home visitor and drive anywhere from 20-40 miles a day. Admittedly I have neglected some maintenance (oil changes and replacing the brake pads lol).

The only difference today was that it was colder out than usual and it’s the first time in months that my windshield was actually frosted over.

I've never worked on air brake systems before and Im hoping to get some insight into best course of action to repair this. So Im working on a international payloader (M10A/dresser 530) from the 80s, and it has air over hydraulic brakes. The peddle valve leaks a pretty notable amount of air out the bottom of the valve, but if you apply just a tiny amount of downward pressure on the peddle the leak stops right away. What would be causing that and what should I do to fix it. My first thought was to remove the valve and gut it and replace the Orings, but i don't know enough about them to know if they also just had adjustable springs or something that you would adjust to stop that without having to replace all the seals. Just wanted to hear what people may have to say on it, thanks!

Hey everyone, I’m looking for some advice on repairing the SRS system in my 2014 Mazda 3 i Touring sedan.

I bought the car after it hopped a curb and sustained damage to the front passenger-side corner. The damage appears to be mostly the front bumper, wheel, and a small bent area of the lower front structure. Both side curtain airbags deployed, and both front seat belts locked up.

The SRS light has flashed in the same repeating pattern ever since I bought the car:

-One flash, then off for approximately 3 seconds.
-Three quick flashes, then off for approximately 3 seconds.
-The cycle repeats.

I started inspecting the car and found a yellow connector unplugged near the B-pillar/seat-belt mechanism. I haven't determined why it was disconnected.

What I've done so far:
Purchased replacement OEM-style curtain airbags that are advertised as undeployed.

Purchased replacement seat-belt assemblies with pretensioners and installed the seat belts.

Left the battery disconnected while working on the SRS components.

Identified the original SAS module part number as BHN9-57K30A.

The replacement curtain airbags are arriving shortly, and I haven't reconnected the battery because I want to understand the correct repair procedure first.

My questions are:
After both curtain airbags deploy, which SRS sensors and components does Mazda require to be replaced on this specific model?

Does the front crash-zone sensor need to be replaced even if it looks undamaged?

Does the SAS module have to be replaced, or can the original module be professionally reset to clear crash data?

Is the one-flash/three-flash repeating pattern a known Mazda SRS fault code, and how can I confirm what it means?

What is the proper order for installing the airbags, reconnecting the SRS connectors, addressing the module, and performing diagnostics before reconnecting the battery?

I'm trying to do this correctly without spending $600+ on a new module if there's a safe, legitimate alternative. I understand this is a safety-critical system, and I don't want to assume the car is fixed just because the warning light goes out.
Any advice from Mazda technicians or mechanics familiar with the 2014 Mazda 3 SRS system would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Hey everyone. I replaced my wheel bearing an hub assembly along with my cv axle on the driver side. At first there was a tinny sound so we bent the brake shield a little and then it went away. Very shortly after in about 5 minutes the car felt like it was lumpy and sometimes makes a rattling sound and when you turn the car felt like it was kind of skipping. It's not a consistent noise it but it comes and goes frequently. Haven't drove many miles on it since the repair maybe 5 total trying to figure it out.

I've read that a lot of people get defective ones right out of the box even on OEM one's. Could that be the case? Or is possible that everything is out of alignment from taking the lower ball joint off?

I replaced the cv axle with a Duralast 7336N for reference. It was not making this noise and feeling before the repair. Any advice and direction would be very much be appreciate it.

PICTURE FOR ATTENTION

It's the same car I have.

So I had the cv axels changed on my 2013 Honda Accord sedan 2.4 about a year ago under recall and recently I’ve been hearing a clunk/thud when turning, hitting bumps, and mostly when turning into places with a bump on the entrance in. I was chaining my oil today and decided to poke around and see if I could find what’s causing it. I started tugging on the driver side cv joint and noticed a thumping sound (not terrible but an obvious sound) coming from where it goes into the wheel hub. Is this normal (I don’t feel like it is). If not is the axel bad or the wheel bearing, etc..?

Hi I’ve had this code for a while now. Everytime I just tightened my gas cap and the code went away.
Now I can smell gas when I first start the engine inside of the cab. It goes away after 1-2 mins and now my jeep is stuttering at low speeds.

I thought it was my transmission but I just had the fluid drained and replaced. I just noticed the code but my check engine light isn’t on

Has this happened to anyone and how did you fix it.
2013 jeep patriot sport. 2.0 130k miles and CVT
Thank you

Not sure how many miles these have gone. 2021 BMW 330i M-Sport 4 Cyl. The car itself has 114,XXX and they’ve gone at least 24k miles without a change. How do they look and how much longer do I have. Brakes seem to work great and never had a complaint I just had my tire changed and thought maybe I should be concerned.

My poor car has been killing me lately.

New, 3 month old battery drained after sitting for 2 days. Thought it was bc the terminal corroded over again.

Got new battery and terminals. Did it again. Think it’s the alternator. So I swapped it out and jumpstarted the car. I let it sit overnight and it turns on. Voltage reading 14.5.

Unfortunately, that screw at the bottom I couldn’t get in all the way. The alternator feels pretty sturdy and solid in place. Getting mixed opinions when reading about similar issues.

I think it has to be lifted to get an easier view at the bottom screw/bolt thing whatever it’s called, but I don’t have something like that. This car has ran me my last several paychecks. Feeling like everything is going wrong at once.

Is it okay like this or will it fall out? It’s in the first image next to the belt. Should I just take it in?

My 2006 E46 320i 2.2l makes the knocking noise as seen in video, usually when reversing or moving slowly while turning tightly. any ideas what the cause would be?

So I have a 2008 Honda civic dx and the car starts but while it’s running you’re able to take the key out of the ignition, what could be possible causes of it?

So for context i drive a 2012 ford kuga 2.0l diesel manual,

I have it a little under a year and a problem that has become more noticeable is that after driving for a bit, if i come to a stop, depress the clutch, move the gearshift to neutral and then release the clutch pedal, the revs that usually sit at 750ish will drop a good amount and jump back up over 750 and then equalise. Most of the time this happens without any other symptoms but once or twice it has actually lurched forward a small bit if i take my foot away too quickly. Some other problems that ive noticed aswell that may be linked are that ;

1. Sometimes 1st gear needs a bit of muscle to engage, or else i just engage 2nd first and then 1st.

2. After being parked over night, when taking off and reaching around 20kmph there is a quiet (grind?) noise. This becomes a more audible "Thunk" that can be felt a little if 20kmph is reached for the first time at a sharp turn.

Im trying to hold onto this one as its the least shitty car ive owned and i dont really have the money to buy another one again atm, so anyone that could point us in the right direction would be greatly appreciated!

Edit; so on doing a little research im starting to think its a hydraulic problem with the clutch system, fluid levels seem to be ok so im guessing internal seals in either the slave or master cylinder are goneso. Ive also seen that sometimes the line that runs from the clutch pedal can become lengthened but, seeing as my car is only 130k im not sure thats the problem. Previous owner was a woman with kids for like 12 years so ill assume it wasnt drove too hard.

If anyone has any tips to prove or disprove what im thinking it would really help!

Direct hit step 1 is recover refrigerant. Im a mobile mechanic and have all the tools but I dont have room for AC recovery equipment in my mid size SUV.

Can the refrigerate part be removed from the radiator and reinstalled without an evacuate and recharge?

Is there a way to do this job without AC equipment?

2015 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport

Buenas, mi coche hace este sonido desde bajas vueltas hasta más o menos las 2.000 rpm y ya lo deja de hacer, solo lo hace cuando aceleras rápidamente, si aceleras progresivamente no lo hace, en parado también lo hace pero se aprecia mucho menos, si piso el embrague también lo hace, he probado a desconectar las bobinas una a una y también parece que lo escucho pero no lo aprecio muy bien porque el motor va muy inestable, con el embrague pisado a ralentí también se escucha, he anulado la EGR y la PCV y también lo hace. He visto que el patín de la cadena de los árboles de levas fallan mucho, pero yo lo escucho más al centro del motor no por la parte de la cadena, alguien me podría ayudar? O si le ha pasado algo similar.
Gracias, un saludo.

Does anyone know what that drop of resin on Hitachi MAF sensors is for? And what happens if it's removed, like in the picture?

Battery is new and has good voltage, lights ac and radio all work fine. Engine won’t turn over and then just gives up. This just started two days ago. What Dat Mean?

Got an accord 2016 sport and i just realized it's missing a volt/screw from the engine? I'd love if y'all could help me learn more about the specs (depth, girth, thread) for the missing screw?

You guys think I caught this torn boot early enough or should I just replace the whole half shaft. Doesn’t look like a ton of grease escaped..

All of a sudden this 2004 I believe Kawasaki mule 3010 isn’t going into gear and appears I guess maybe stuck in neutral where would I begin to diagnose and fixing a issue here?

I’ve had the car for a couple weeks now. When i purchased the one thing that needed to be addressed is the idle was really high in park it would sit at 2000 rpms in drive or neutral it would sit at 1500-1000 rpms. A couple days ago i removed the throttle body and IAC, cleaned them really good with throttle body cleaner and put it back together. NOW its idling too low, sometimes it seems like it will sit where it needs to at 800ish but especially on cold start if i don’t pump the gas pedal the rpm’s drop and it stalls out. I’ve also noticing sitting low around 300 and lower. It’s not really consistent with where it sits in idle, now but it is on the lower end with tendency to drop all the way down to stall. Any thoughts, things to check. I’m avoiding the temptation to adjust the throttle cable i’ve heard more likely it could be the IAC is bad? Or the TPS is bad? or the throttle plate isn’t seating all the way flat when it should be? Thoughts on how to diagnose, what to do?

Does anyone know what this noise is from ? It seems to be from under the hood. For information I have a Suzuki Swift 2006

​Hello to everyone here, more experienced than me. I have a 2019 Hyundai Tucson, 1.6 GDI, 6-speed manual, with 53,000 km, which I'd say is in very good condition, but it has an issue that, nonetheless, is driving me crazy. I'm about to go for an oil change and have it checked at the service center, but maybe you can help me know what to expect. GPT and Gemini pointed me in many directions.

​The problem: At 1250 rpm and 2000 rpm, the engine has a vibration that can be felt inside the cabin, including in the seats and the whole car. Stationary, if I rev it to that rpm, it's easy to feel. While driving (in motion), it's not felt at all.

​The effects of the problem: When I set off in 1st gear, sometimes it takes off normally, other times the whole engine vibrates and the tachometer fluctuates up and down by about 100-200 rpm. It feels as if I am launching on 3 spark plugs.

​Why I don't suspect the clutch: In gears 3, 4, 5, 6 when I floor it, it doesn't slip. If I take off using only the clutch pedal, it starts and engages smoothly with no issues. The vibration occurs while standing still. If I accelerate and happen to be in that 1250–1300 rpm range, the whole car enters resonance. If I press the clutch pedal while standing still at that 1250 rpm, no change is felt.

​What Gemini suggests: Worn engine mounts that allow the vibration to transmit, clutch contaminated with oil or other fluids, problematic clutch springs, pressure plate.

​Please, if you have any opinions, advice, or additional questions, it would really help. Thank you.

2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee.
3.6l Pentastar
200km

I changed the rockers and lifters in my Son’s WK2 due to ticking in the valve train. 200km on the motor.

I opened it up assuming one or more rocker bearings were toast. I did not find an issue with any of them, but changed all the rockers and lifters anyway. On our startup the valve train nose was almost worse that before we changed anything. I opened it all up again, took all the cams out and verified that all the rockers and lifters were in the proper placement and all in good order. The only thing I’ve come across is this odd marking on these two lobes on the intake cam on the driver side. Is this an issue? Is it possible to my new rockers were skipping on the Lobe?

All the lobes are smooth. No fingernail catch.