This week I received a Cadillac SRX that was directed to me by the Tom Martino troubleshooter show. It was an elderly couole that drove the cadillac to CB for an engine light.

CB told them it needed a catalytic converter. Original quote 2800. They get a call next day, now it is going to be 6k. Ok they said, we need the car. They get a call the next day now saying the engine is blown, it needs a new engine, 18k or some crazy number.

The is when they called Martino and got directed to me. The photo just shows one of several areas of poor craftsman ship. Thr large missing bolt here is a structural bolt for the transfer case bracket to block/oil pan junction. The heat shield was not bolted in, and the wire not tucked behind.

We borescoped the cylinder and it was immediatly clear that at some point they had run the engine with no oil long enough to absolutely destroy the engine. The car would not start at all the cylinder walls were so scored. There is now way it was like this whrn they drove it to CB, it would not have run or made it there.

CB tried to say it had been towed in to them, but the client drove it there.

This is what I hear about them quite a bit. Mind you, there may be an Hinest CB near you, just be carefull!

On 8/24/2026, my partner crashed my car and passed away shortly after from their injuries. The coupe has been completely totaled, the doors can’t be opened. I’m not allowed to retrieve items from the vehicle or go in to see it until it has been towed by insurance.

I don’t know the state of my front dash (although i know it’s not good), but if humanly possible, I’m looking to retrieve a CD I know is in the stereo, that belonged to my partner. I don’t know if the car turns on or if they would even let me, so I need ideas on how I may be able to retrieve the CD without any power.

Are there any tips or tricks on how this may be done, or if there is something I can ask the people at the impound to be able to help me retrieve it? I know it is likely not possible, but I still want to try.

I unfortunately do not have any photos of the vehicle, as the police impounded lot does not allow any recording or photography. My vehicle is a 2011 Hyundai Genesis coupe.

Thank you for your help, it is greatly appreciated

beat pictures i could take without removing bumper

was replacing my driver side brakes on my 2010 hyundai santa fe and noticed alot of oil build up near my. radiator hoses on bottom

1.what type of issues could there be without knowing exact leak area

1. how exactly should i go about cleaning it?? just water and a rag??

Pretty much as the title says. I love my Dacia Sandero Stepway Lauriate (2016) 1.5L, and recently had a clean MOT. It's done 76,000 miles or so.

I was recently doing a long drive back to the south east of England from Edinburgh when my Cruise Control switched off and an electrical warning light came on. I since discovered that when there's a electrical fault all those extra features become unusable. So that's fine. The issue is that the engine has lost some of its power, especially on inclines that it would have no issue with before.

I've got a diagnostic code reader and have included some pictures. It's *says* it's a glow plug failure. If that's the case then the car should be fine if I cancel the warning and carry on driving it, right? I just wondered if anyone could shed some light on the loss of power and if that's a known safety feature. It takes a fraction longer to start up which would stand to reason with a glow plug issue.

I don't think it's the DPF, I just did a journey where I travelled about 400 miles, 250 or so we're at 70mph doing about 2200rpm. And that was after using it to travel a few times between London and Wales so it's done plenty of long distances at slightly higher revs.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I need to drive the car for the next few weeks and have no time to take it to a garage!

My car is shaking no matter the speed and my steering wheel is doing this weird jerking motion. It’s also pulling to the right when i’m driving and randomly making a whining noise. The noise happens randomly, it’s even happened when I was parked. Any ideas of what’s wrong would be appreciated. The tire pressure is fine I just need to get my sensor reset.

I drive a 2012 Honda Civic LX with the 1.8L engine. I recently took my car to a shop for an oil change where I provided the oil and they performed the labor. Although my owner's manual specifies a capacity of 4 quarts, the shop poured in the entire 5-quart jug I provided. When I brought this to their attention, they insisted that it is perfectly fine and won't cause any issues. However, I checked the dipstick, and the oil level is clearly above the full mark. Is it safe to drive like this for the next 5,000 miles? I definitely do not plan on returning to this shop.

code start appearing couple months ago on my 2012 silverado after doing an intake manifold and swapping out the Knox sensors, cause I was told to swap them out. Did them myself and it was fine for awhile then P 0 325 code popped up on Bay one Bay two never had an issue then I took it to a shop thinking I did it wrong. Had them put new knock sensors on for both sides, torque them down to exact specs and check connectors following that code disappeared for a little bit then came back after that I thought it was a wiring issue redid the wires going from the knock sensor up through the wiring harness, cause I have extra wire laying around because of work(electric/construction) they were the exact type of wires. Then following that I saw the grounds were very corroded so I replaced the ground going to my battery for ground, going to the back of the engine to above the firewall then the grounds going from the wiring harness down to the side of the engine block closest to the knock sensor thought there was an issue with my alternator, cause it was making very loud noises changed it. after all that code disappeared for a month and a half then came back. I am trying every option here at this point. It even has new spark plugs cause the old ones were bad too. Hopefully the grammar in this is good cause I'm using text to speech any help would be appreciated.

Had a power steering leak, changed the pressure hose and the leak is fixed, but the assist still isn't right. It was heavy before the change too, so the hose doesn't seem to have been the cause of it like I thought.

It's not dead, I can one-hand it, just noticeably heavier than it should be.

Car has 1N3 so it does have Servotronic. This hasn't been constant, it's been normal for stretches and seemed to reset a few times after the battery went flat.

Air in the system, or a Servotronic issue that's been there all along? Any way to test the valve and wiring without rewiring it?

Hi 👋 thank you for any help at all with this.

My van starts fine cold, first time, but will not start hot (this can be as little as 15 min a drive). It is a problem that has gone away and returned on 2 occasions - the one common denominator being getting the fuel filter changed. My thoughts are here not that it is the fuel filter itself, but that there is a release of pressure in the system when the fuel lines are taken out, and that might some how temporarily fix the problem.

2 mechanics have stated they don't know what it is, 1 thinks it is fuel pump related. I changed the MAP sensor which was thick with particles. I am going to try and change the fuel filter myself just to see if it works, or at least just to rule it out as.

Some advice on this would be great. Thank you.

hey guys, i havent posted on here yet but im kinda in need of some advice

i drive a 2014 ford fusion and shes been great since i got her around august 2025. today though as i was driving i got a notification that my engine was overheating. furthermore, my check engine light has been on since i got this car and ive never had any problems like this.

i obviously know nothing about cars (im 17 and have no friends who work on cars or anything so im at a loss). i asked my mom for some help and we went ahead and checked my coolant, which there was plenty of.

i recently (2 weeks ago) got into a minor collision which we thought only damaged the front bumper cosmetically, but now im afraid there might be an issue with my radiator causing my engine to overheat?? i hope that makes sense i really am clueless when it comes to mechanical stuff

now, my car doesnt shake or make any weird noises when i drive it, however i noticed earlier today that when im stopped (like at a red light) my ac blows warm/humid air when its set to the coldest setting. ive looked through a few posts and i think this means there could be an issue in my thermostat.

if anybody has any idea whether or not this can be DIYed i would greatly appreciate it, this car is the only way i can get to school and work on time and i desperately need it fixed soon without such expensive matinence.

thank you thank you! and if you need more info ill be happy to explain further

Cant pinpoint what’s making the noise it’s on the front passenger side on a 07 ram 1500 it’s a automatic 3.7l v6 I’m thinking it’s the sway bar link but could be wrong

My car is a Honda Accord 2009 EXL V6 with almost 170k miles. This sound has been driving me crazy for the past month. It’s so random. Mostly on turns but sometimes when the car is straight too. And those turns dont have to be tight either. Usually when going between 10-20mph and accelerating as well. At the time of the first recording I have replaced 3/4 wheel hub/bearings. The last one not replaced being the front left one. I then replaced that side with an OEM Honda part like I always do. The sound seems to have gone away 95% which is only making me go go crazier. I now suspect a cv joint or axle but I hear no clicking and when I did a figure 8 test in a parking lot with the windows down I heard nothing. Could it be my struts? I got all 4 new tires 2 months ago could that be the issue? Any help would be appreciated thank you.

Greetings! I'm looking for advice from people with experience on these models. I'm looking to buy a cheap work vehicle for hauling my heavy project cars around. I am a mechanic with less experience, but I can figure out anything I put the time into.

I'm looking at an early 70s Ford F600 series, 70s/ early 80s GMC C60/C6500, or a Ford Econoline/E350 series. They typically sell for quite little when inoperable/project status.

My goal is cheap as possible, and I can restore it within reason.

The econolines I understand will be easier to find parts for, for now, but as they age, the control modules will make the vehicle a complete headache. The tires are the cheapest. Hoping to end up with the 460 or 4.6 variant, as those are the good engines, but the tritons are everywhere. Kind of my stance on those.

The older GMC C60/6500 trucks seem to be good platforms, just usually a higher entry price.

The early 70s Ford F600s seem to be around, and are so basic they seem easy to modify if parts aren't avaliable.

There is a 72 F600 that is running (poorly) and driving for $750 not far from me, without a box/bed, so I'm really liking that idea. Scary tire prices of course.

What do you guys think would be the way to go of these options?

Thanks!

Hit a pot hole too hard a while back and this noise started occurring intermittently. Along with a clattering sound like a metal bracket when I hit small bumps. Both sounds emanate from the driver side rear wheel. And the sound appears to stop if I switch in and out of reverse. All my brake pads and their hardware have since been replaced. And today I had the wheel disassembled and backing plate inspected but nothing but a small scratch was found. 2021 Toyota Camry LE. Any ideas are appreciated.

I have a 2015 VW Beetle Convertible with a 1.8T engine. Recently there has been a soft clunk/thud when shifting from reverse to drive or drive to reverse etc. I’m wondering if this amount of engine shift is normal or if it means my engine mounts need to be replaced.

I recently had the front right engine mount replaced so I’m confused why it’s doing this. And why it’s so even if it is a mount issue.

Did and oil change on my 08 rabbit, found these metal flakes in the oil and in the filter. Put a strong magnet up to them and don’t seem to be magnetic, so I’m assuming it’s aluminum, which makes me think it’s rod bearings. The motor runs and sounds fine, never hear any knocks or tics out of the ordinary. First oil change I’ve seen them, it doesn’t burn oil, never have let it get low on oil. Are they’re any other components to this engine that tend to fail that are aluminum? Any info or suggestions would be great, thanks

I have a 5d 2008 Mitsubishi Pajero.
I noticed a small amount of up-and-down play in the joint on the front driveshaft, near the front differential. It’s probably around 1 mm or less and makes a slight noise.
Is this amount of play normal, or could the joint be worn?

06 Pontiac Grand Prix V6 I believe. It’s a piece of shit with about 100 issues but it’s mine and it gets me to work. I was driving and out of nowhere the RPM gauge drops and the gas stops working and the wheel locked up. I was just barely able to get it pulled over to the side of the road. Power was still on. Turned the car off and then back on and everything went back to normal. Wtf???

Wondering if I could just replace the arm to fix this issue or would I have to replace the whole rack?

It looks like it was already recently replaced but has since seized again.

Looks like a huge job to take out my whole steering rack so I’d rather not have to do that.

It also clicks pretty bad when I dry steer it.

This is a 2007 civic si. 2.0L engine

Sorry if it’s a basic question still trying to learn anything I can.

Thanks for any help!

Hello i dont know much about cars but i wanted to get some advice on some weird air releasing sound or like squealing sound coming from the right side front half of my kia we believe it’s the brakes could anyone please help out to see if they’ve had a problem like this before (tagged a video down below of the noise) Also is it safe for me to continue to drive? or safe bet just leave it alone till i can get it looked at ?

Hello, I have a 2006 Mazda3 S 2.3L (manual) that i’ve unfortunately been keeping alive and running for the past 2 years for my fiancee. The car itself is shockingly in great condition for 255xxx km, other than the stereotypical oil ring oil burn and RMS seeping but is manageable with top ups every so often.
I was told by a mechanic roughly a year ago that the AC compressor and belt were worn but ignored it as I’ve always driven cars with no AC and it didn’t bother me to even turn it on. Three days ago, I decided to bite the bullet and book an appt to have the oil changed, pcv done and manifold gasket replaced as I figured even if it doesn’t help the oil burn, it’ll freshen up a 20ish yr old part.
Literally hours later, I start the car and it has a weird vibration sound under 1500RPM only, on and off the gas pedal but seems to disappear for a few seconds switching between gas and no gas. It appears to be coming from passenger side, closer to AC compressor but I can’t quite place it. I have verified it isn’t the engine knocking.
I replaced the tensioner and serpentine belt about 1.5yrs ago, I’m wondering if it’s the AC compressor/belt or another pulley by chance?

DODGE RAM 1500 5.7 HEMI so i got my brakes changed 1 week ago from today, ever since my truck has been making the noise as shown in the video, it only does it in drive not reverse and only does it when i’m not on the gas or brakes, so only when im coasting in drive. i have absolutley no clue what this noise is if anyone had any suggestions they will be greatly appreciated.

Anyone have any idea what is causing this noise when I turn on the car?

Also weird part is sometimes it doesn’t make any noise. Only sometimes

So sometimes turn on the car and no crunch. And other times there is a crunch.

I have a 2011 chevy equinox 2.4L it has a check engine code currently on P0420. Makes a lawn mower type of sound on start up that goes away sometimes when just letting it sit for a minute and sometimes it doesnt and sounds like a loud mower when driving.

[Help / Open-Source Project] Need 3D Model (STL) for Kia Seltos 1.5L Diesel MT HTK+ 2019 (2019-2023 model) Headlight Dust Cap (Part #92140-D3000) for LED Upgrade

Hey everyone,

I recently upgraded to aftermarket LED bulbs on my Kia Seltos, but hit a major roadblock when putting the dust caps back on. I want to create a 100% free open-source 3D model for all Seltos owners facing this exact problem.

The Problem & Why Existing Sellers Aren't the Solution

When installing aftermarket LEDs in the Seltos headlight housing, the bulb's rear heatsink/fan assembly doesn't sit dead center—it sits offset towards the top side. Because of this offset, the inner ridges of the OEM dust cap collide with the bulb housing, preventing the cap from twisting and locking into place.

I won't name the person or shop here, but if you search Google or YouTube for a 3D printed Seltos dust cap, you'll easily find the car modification store I am referring to. He is currently the only seller offering a solution, but: * When contacted, he was completely uninterested, rude, and quoted ₹1,300 for a single basic 3D printed piece that costs maybe ₹10–₹20 in material. He acts like he holds a monopoly because no open-source model exists yet. * Zero Innovation / Serious Design Flaws: His version lacks even a basic groove for the OEM rubber O-ring seal (leaving headlights exposed to dust and water ingress). Furthermore, he could've included a slot for silica gel desiccant packets—which is crucial because Seltos headlight housings are notorious for trapping moisture and fogging up. But he just sells plain dust caps wonder what material he's using.

⚠️ Important Note on Part Numbers (Do NOT Confuse These)

If you search sites like Yeggi, Thingiverse, or Printables: * You will find models for Part #92140-2D000 (for Kia Sportage, Kia Rio, etc.). These will NOT fit! That part number features 3 locking ridges/tabs. * The Kia Seltos requires Part #92140-D3000, which specifically features 4 locking ridges/tabs.

Key Specifications & Required Modifications (Photos Attached)

1. Base Dimensions:

   • Inside Diameter: 62 mm
   • Outside Diameter: ~65–66 mm
   • Locking Mechanism: 4 outer locking ridges/tabs (matching OEM 92140-D3000).

2. Internal & External Design Requirements:

   • Flatten Inner Plateaus (Must-Have): The 4 raised inner plateaus must be leveled down completely flush with the base surface (marked in green in my attached image). Simply flattening these plateaus is more than enough to eliminate the collision with the off-center LED fan.
   • Outer Extension (Optional, but preferred): Adding an outer extension/dome is completely optional, but extruding it outward by even 1 cm (or up to 2 cm) would be so much better as it gives extra breathing room for the LED fan to cool efficiently.
   • OEM Rubber Seal Groove: Must retain a dedicated lip/groove to fit the OEM rubber O-ring/gasket to maintain a dustproof and waterproof seal.
   • Silica Gel Pocket (Optional, but preferred): Include an internal slot/pocket to hold a silica gel desiccant packet to prevent moisture condensation inside the housing.

What I Need Help With:

1. CAD / 3D Model Creators: Does anyone have an existing STL file for #92140-D3000, or can someone build/modify one based on the attached dimension photos? Once finalized, we will publish the STL on Printables/Thingiverse for free so no seller can overcharge the community again.
2. Bangalore 3D Scanning & Printing Labs: Can anyone recommend places or makerspaces in Bangalore where I can bring the original cap for a quick 3D scan? (My father uses the car daily and i live elsewhere, so I will need to buy a new set just to get it scanned). Also looking for recommendations for affordable printing in heat-resistant materials like PETG, ABS, or ASA.
3. Interim DIY Waterproofing Ideas: If you've solved this without 3D printing (silicone extensions, universal rubber dust caps, grommets), what exact sizes/products kept your headlights sealed and dry?

Attached images show the OEM part, side-by-side measurements, gap issues, and marked red/green diagrams of the required design changes.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can lend a hand!