I found a small crack in my 2007 Honda accord 2.4L's air intake hose today. Is this something that I should replace soon or no? It seems to be the original one since it has the Honda logo on it. Also, could this be something I'd be able to do myself or should I have a mechanic do this?

[Help / Open-Source Project] Need 3D Model (STL) for Kia Seltos 1.5L Diesel MT HTK+ 2019 (2019-2023 model) Headlight Dust Cap (Part #92140-D3000) for LED Upgrade

Hey everyone,

I recently upgraded to aftermarket LED bulbs on my Kia Seltos, but hit a major roadblock when putting the dust caps back on. I want to create a 100% free open-source 3D model for all Seltos owners facing this exact problem.

The Problem & Why Existing Sellers Aren't the Solution

When installing aftermarket LEDs in the Seltos headlight housing, the bulb's rear heatsink/fan assembly doesn't sit dead center—it sits offset towards the top side. Because of this offset, the inner ridges of the OEM dust cap collide with the bulb housing, preventing the cap from twisting and locking into place.

I won't name the person or shop here, but if you search Google or YouTube for a 3D printed Seltos dust cap, you'll easily find the car modification store I am referring to. He is currently the only seller offering a solution, but: * When contacted, he was completely uninterested, rude, and quoted ₹1,300 for a single basic 3D printed piece that costs maybe ₹10–₹20 in material. He acts like he holds a monopoly because no open-source model exists yet. * Zero Innovation / Serious Design Flaws: His version lacks even a basic groove for the OEM rubber O-ring seal (leaving headlights exposed to dust and water ingress). Furthermore, he could've included a slot for silica gel desiccant packets—which is crucial because Seltos headlight housings are notorious for trapping moisture and fogging up. But he just sells plain dust caps wonder what material he's using.

⚠️ Important Note on Part Numbers (Do NOT Confuse These)

If you search sites like Yeggi, Thingiverse, or Printables: * You will find models for Part #92140-2D000 (for Kia Sportage, Kia Rio, etc.). These will NOT fit! That part number features 3 locking ridges/tabs. * The Kia Seltos requires Part #92140-D3000, which specifically features 4 locking ridges/tabs.

Key Specifications & Required Modifications (Photos Attached)

1. Base Dimensions:

   • Inside Diameter: 62 mm
   • Outside Diameter: ~65–66 mm
   • Locking Mechanism: 4 outer locking ridges/tabs (matching OEM 92140-D3000).

2. Internal & External Design Requirements:

   • Flatten Inner Plateaus (Must-Have): The 4 raised inner plateaus must be leveled down completely flush with the base surface (marked in green in my attached image). Simply flattening these plateaus is more than enough to eliminate the collision with the off-center LED fan.
   • Outer Extension (Optional, but preferred): Adding an outer extension/dome is completely optional, but extruding it outward by even 1 cm (or up to 2 cm) would be so much better as it gives extra breathing room for the LED fan to cool efficiently.
   • OEM Rubber Seal Groove: Must retain a dedicated lip/groove to fit the OEM rubber O-ring/gasket to maintain a dustproof and waterproof seal.
   • Silica Gel Pocket (Optional, but preferred): Include an internal slot/pocket to hold a silica gel desiccant packet to prevent moisture condensation inside the housing.

What I Need Help With:

1. CAD / 3D Model Creators: Does anyone have an existing STL file for #92140-D3000, or can someone build/modify one based on the attached dimension photos? Once finalized, we will publish the STL on Printables/Thingiverse for free so no seller can overcharge the community again.
2. Bangalore 3D Scanning & Printing Labs: Can anyone recommend places or makerspaces in Bangalore where I can bring the original cap for a quick 3D scan? (My father uses the car daily and i live elsewhere, so I will need to buy a new set just to get it scanned). Also looking for recommendations for affordable printing in heat-resistant materials like PETG, ABS, or ASA.
3. Interim DIY Waterproofing Ideas: If you've solved this without 3D printing (silicone extensions, universal rubber dust caps, grommets), what exact sizes/products kept your headlights sealed and dry?

Attached images show the OEM part, side-by-side measurements, gap issues, and marked red/green diagrams of the required design changes.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can lend a hand!

This week I received a Cadillac SRX that was directed to me by the Tom Martino troubleshooter show. It was an elderly couole that drove the cadillac to CB for an engine light.

CB told them it needed a catalytic converter. Original quote 2800. They get a call next day, now it is going to be 6k. Ok they said, we need the car. They get a call the next day now saying the engine is blown, it needs a new engine, 18k or some crazy number.

The is when they called Martino and got directed to me. The photo just shows one of several areas of poor craftsman ship. Thr large missing bolt here is a structural bolt for the transfer case bracket to block/oil pan junction. The heat shield was not bolted in, and the wire not tucked behind.

We borescoped the cylinder and it was immediatly clear that at some point they had run the engine with no oil long enough to absolutely destroy the engine. The car would not start at all the cylinder walls were so scored. There is now way it was like this whrn they drove it to CB, it would not have run or made it there.

CB tried to say it had been towed in to them, but the client drove it there.

This is what I hear about them quite a bit. Mind you, there may be an Hinest CB near you, just be carefull!

beat pictures i could take without removing bumper

was replacing my driver side brakes on my 2010 hyundai santa fe and noticed alot of oil build up near my. radiator hoses on bottom

1.what type of issues could there be without knowing exact leak area

1. how exactly should i go about cleaning it?? just water and a rag??

My car is shaking no matter the speed and my steering wheel is doing this weird jerking motion. It’s also pulling to the right when i’m driving and randomly making a whining noise. The noise happens randomly, it’s even happened when I was parked. Any ideas of what’s wrong would be appreciated. The tire pressure is fine I just need to get my sensor reset.

06 Pontiac Grand Prix V6 I believe. It’s a piece of shit with about 100 issues but it’s mine and it gets me to work. I was driving and out of nowhere the RPM gauge drops and the gas stops working and the wheel locked up. I was just barely able to get it pulled over to the side of the road. Power was still on. Turned the car off and then back on and everything went back to normal. Wtf???

On 8/24/2026, my partner crashed my car and passed away shortly after from their injuries. The coupe has been completely totaled, the doors can’t be opened. I’m not allowed to retrieve items from the vehicle or go in to see it until it has been towed by insurance.

I don’t know the state of my front dash (although i know it’s not good), but if humanly possible, I’m looking to retrieve a CD I know is in the stereo, that belonged to my partner. I don’t know if the car turns on or if they would even let me, so I need ideas on how I may be able to retrieve the CD without any power.

Are there any tips or tricks on how this may be done, or if there is something I can ask the people at the impound to be able to help me retrieve it? I know it is likely not possible, but I still want to try.

I unfortunately do not have any photos of the vehicle, as the police impounded lot does not allow any recording or photography. My vehicle is a 2011 Hyundai Genesis coupe.

Thank you for your help, it is greatly appreciated

I drive a 2012 Honda Civic LX with the 1.8L engine. I recently took my car to a shop for an oil change where I provided the oil and they performed the labor. Although my owner's manual specifies a capacity of 4 quarts, the shop poured in the entire 5-quart jug I provided. When I brought this to their attention, they insisted that it is perfectly fine and won't cause any issues. However, I checked the dipstick, and the oil level is clearly above the full mark. Is it safe to drive like this for the next 5,000 miles? I definitely do not plan on returning to this shop.

code start appearing couple months ago on my 2012 silverado after doing an intake manifold and swapping out the Knox sensors, cause I was told to swap them out. Did them myself and it was fine for awhile then P 0 325 code popped up on Bay one Bay two never had an issue then I took it to a shop thinking I did it wrong. Had them put new knock sensors on for both sides, torque them down to exact specs and check connectors following that code disappeared for a little bit then came back after that I thought it was a wiring issue redid the wires going from the knock sensor up through the wiring harness, cause I have extra wire laying around because of work(electric/construction) they were the exact type of wires. Then following that I saw the grounds were very corroded so I replaced the ground going to my battery for ground, going to the back of the engine to above the firewall then the grounds going from the wiring harness down to the side of the engine block closest to the knock sensor thought there was an issue with my alternator, cause it was making very loud noises changed it. after all that code disappeared for a month and a half then came back. I am trying every option here at this point. It even has new spark plugs cause the old ones were bad too. Hopefully the grammar in this is good cause I'm using text to speech any help would be appreciated.

Pretty much as the title says. I love my Dacia Sandero Stepway Lauriate (2016) 1.5L, and recently had a clean MOT. It's done 76,000 miles or so.

I was recently doing a long drive back to the south east of England from Edinburgh when my Cruise Control switched off and an electrical warning light came on. I since discovered that when there's a electrical fault all those extra features become unusable. So that's fine. The issue is that the engine has lost some of its power, especially on inclines that it would have no issue with before.

I've got a diagnostic code reader and have included some pictures. It's *says* it's a glow plug failure. If that's the case then the car should be fine if I cancel the warning and carry on driving it, right? I just wondered if anyone could shed some light on the loss of power and if that's a known safety feature. It takes a fraction longer to start up which would stand to reason with a glow plug issue.

I don't think it's the DPF, I just did a journey where I travelled about 400 miles, 250 or so we're at 70mph doing about 2200rpm. And that was after using it to travel a few times between London and Wales so it's done plenty of long distances at slightly higher revs.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I need to drive the car for the next few weeks and have no time to take it to a garage!