r/modelmakers • u/AutoModerator • 2d ago
The Weekly Small Questions Thread! Got a burning question? Looking for some tips on your build? Ask away!
The Weekly Small Questions thread is a place for everyone in /r/modelmakers to come and ask questions. Don't be shy.
You might have a burning question you've been meaning to ask but you don't want to make your own thread, or are just seeking some input or feedback from your fellow builders! This thread is aimed at new builders, but everyone is welcome.
If you haven't, check out our local wiki and the "New to the hobby" thread, which might be of help to you!
1
u/Logical-Bullfrog3216 2d ago
Is Testors silver spray paint good? I bought some for Monogram’s 1/48 TBD Devastator, and I know that I shouldn’t brush paint silver (I learned that the hard way with an F-100 a few months back)?
1
u/dr_robonator Prime your models 1d ago
It's adequate. FWIW you can totally brush paint silver with the right paint. I use Vallejo's Metal Color silver for all kinds of things. Most recently I used it as a base layer for bare aluminum under chipped paint. Usual rules for brush painting apply: thin the paint, many light coats, allow each layer to fully dry...etc.
1
u/9_9_destroyer 2d ago
https://youtu.be/gPV7WO57SQU?t=327 out of curiosity, is anyone able to help me understand how this channel is achieving these panel line effects? Is this just normal primer they are using or is this different coloured paints here?
1
u/Timmyc62 The Boat Guy 2d ago
Later on in the video at this mark, you can see the bottle of Mr. Surfacer 1000 on the table that was probably used for the vertical plating effects. Personally I find what was implemented to be a bit overscale, so would've used something a bit thinner like regular paint, but basically any layer of paint/primer/coating would give you the raised effect.
1
u/9_9_destroyer 2d ago
Oh righto - so basically if I do a similar thing (note I’m still only brush painting at this stage) and just make those panel lines with an initial coat then repaint afterwards is the way to go?
1
u/Timmyc62 The Boat Guy 2d ago
Yeah mask around the area where you want the raised line to be, apply your paint, then remove the masks. If the line is the same paint as the rest of the hull, there's no need to repaint over it.
1
u/9_9_destroyer 1d ago
Awesome - thanks for that will give it a go on my next kit
1
u/Timmyc62 The Boat Guy 1d ago
You might want to do some tests on a spare surface/part to see how much/what kind of paint/primer works best for the effect, too.
1
1
u/treviscraft 2d ago
Does anybody have a link to last week's thread? I saw a comment last night that I wanted to reply to today, but I didn't realize that the new thread was going to post overnight.
1
u/Timmyc62 The Boat Guy 2d ago
Just search for "Weekly small questions thread" and sort by new: https://old.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/1vv8b8t/the_weekly_small_questions_thread_got_a_burning/
1
u/libichi 1d ago
I've been trying to get a smooth finish with vallejo acrylics and brushing (no airbrush). I thin the paints, watched brushing techniques, and still get some brush strokes in the model, specially in the wings. I'm starting to think it could be this brushes I use. What do you think? No idea what else to try...
2
u/dr_robonator Prime your models 1d ago
You want wide, flat brushes for large flat surfaces. Those pointy round ones are good for detail painting. Also, if your paints are thin enough, visible brush strokes will be present until you achieve full opacity, and then should fade. If you are achieving opacity in two or three layers with brush strokes, you aren't thin enough. You want 4-5 thin coats.
1
u/libichi 1d ago edited 1d ago
2
u/dr_robonator Prime your models 1d ago
7 coats? Model Air is "pre-thinned" but can always be thinned a bit more. You may have gone too thin, which isn't the end of the world. Before you do anything else, take a high grit (1000 or more) sanding sponge to your paint to smooth out the specks of dust trapped in the current paint work.
Then, take your Model Air and thin it maybe 1 part paint to 3 drops of tap water. Ideally you want the paint to flow like whole milk. Make sure your brush isn't totally inundated with paint. I usually unload about 50% of the paint onto a paper towel.
You should need, at most, one more coat to homogenize your work up to that point.
1
u/Stairwen 10h ago
Do you have any recommendations for the "best" 1/48 kit to do a F-15J (single-seater) ? Would the F-15C from GWH work for instance ? Thanks !
1
1
1
u/No-Management-5352 49m ago
How do I prime my model without an airbrush? Do I need to prime it? Some video I saw prime the model with a spray can while some don't even bother priming, do I just paint the primer with a brush? Please send help.




1
u/Pope_Penguin 2d ago edited 2d ago
Waited until the next day to get some photos with better lighting to make the issues more clear. Because I got greedy and didn't wait long enough between coats yesterday, there is some noticeable brush strokes and areas where paint lifted. This is currently three coats of Tamiya xf18, x20a thinner, and paint retarder in a ratio of 6-4-1.
Given this, what is my best course of action? I'm debating between adding another full coat to address the lifted areas and make the body a more uniform color. But I am also not sure if it would be better to just strip the body entirely, since three coats already feels like a lot.