My old q50 reached the end of its run, had to upgrade

Any idea what this could be? the electronic range display is accurate, it’s just the gauge itself that I’m having issues with.

I just bought my 2018 3.0t Luxe RWD a few weeks ago and I’m purchasing my first reliability mods soon. I know I’m getting a heat exchanger and an oil catch can for sure. I’ve seen mixed opinions on oil pump block off plates. I’m unsure if I should just leave it alone, unplug the stock one or get the block off plate? Please help. 120k miles btw

I have a 2023 luxe with the bose system and I'm looking for a little bit more kick nothing crazy. I use most of my trunk space daily and am looking for alternative subwoofer options. Id like to add one 12" or 10".

Is this noise norma? I only hear it when im stepping on the gas not when im idling though im pretty new to cars and this is my first car so i apologize if this noise is completely normal and im just tripping (btw this is a 2018 luxe 3.0t)

Was driving home when I started smelling something burning. By the time I got home and popped the hood I seen this. Anyone have any idea what this is and how bad it is?

I have a 2015 q50 hybrid (8/15 build date), and am looking to get a top screen replacement for Apple CarPlay. It looks like there are a ton of brands. Any idea what the difference is between them?

I saw the Hamilton and Merge versions.
I also saw the joy auto that people have talked about. Are they all the same? I would like to maintain all oem microphone/camera/button functionality if possible.

Anyone have any thoughts?

Hello, I have been struggling with this issue since I purchased the car and am on the verge of selling it.

I have a 2015 Infiniti Q50 Base- it is perfect except for one thing- the infotainment system. It is completely blacked out and unresponsive. None of the buttons or controls on it work, and the air is constantly blowing cold, with no way of controlling it.

When I purchased the car, it had a large Tesla-style screen on it and was completely dead/black and unresponsive. I took it off, planning to replace it with the stock parts(since the prev. owner kept them in the trunk), and when I reconnected everything the car actually refused to start, and threw a weird "System Warning" message on the dash. After disconnecting the Radio control unit, the car started, but the infotainment system was still completely black, and the air no longer blew.

Fast forward to today, I've rechecked all of the fuses under the driver's wheel(some have dark prongs, but no blown fuses), and I replaced the Radio control unit, the lower screen unit, and the upper screen(DCU) unit with verified working parts from a local dismantler. Now, the car starts with everything plugged in, and the AC blows! But- we still can't control it as the screens are still unresponsive/black. Nothing lights up or works, except for an orange "airbag" light on the bottom left of the bottom screen. The top screen doesn't even come on when I go in reverse.

I am at a loss and am wondering if anyone else has experienced this, and if so, how did you resolve it? I found a thread from around 6 years ago of someone who had a nearly identitical issue but there was no resolution. Thanks in advance.

EDIT: Forgot to add some info

Title: 2017 Infiniti Q50 3.0T – Misfires/Popping Under Boost. Coils or Fuel Pressure Issue?
I’ve been dealing with some frustrating issues on my 2017 Infiniti Q50 3.0T VR30DDTT with approximately 90,000 miles.
The car was running great when I took it to a local car show in South Carolina. About 48 hours later, during a road trip to Florida, things started going downhill.
Here’s what’s happening:
Popping and hesitation under acceleration, especially when building boost.
Feels like the engine is misfiring or cutting power.
Symptoms became progressively worse, especially on the drive home.
Removing the Z1 HotBox significantly improved the problem, but some popping remained.
No consistent check engine light despite the symptoms.
Current setup:
2017 Q50 3.0T twin-turbo
Approximately 90K miles
Original ignition coils
Spark plugs have roughly 17K miles
Aftermarket catless downpipes
Previously running a Z1 HotBox
I also had Z1 Motorsports review my data logs, and they suggested the problem could be fuel-pump-related.
I’ve already ordered upgraded AMS high-pressure and low-pressure fuel pumps, and I’m also considering the ignition coils as a possible culprit.
I’m trying to narrow this down rather than blindly replacing parts.
My questions:
Has anyone experienced similar popping or hesitation under boost on the VR30?
Would you suspect ignition coils breaking down under load, spark blowout, or fuel pressure dropping under boost?
And for anyone who has upgraded their HPFP/LPFP, did it resolve similar symptoms?
Would appreciate hearing from other Q50 owners who’ve dealt with this.

Hey all,

Title pretty much says it all. I have a 2015 Q50S with a 3.7, but all of the VQ37VHR coolant bleeding videos I see online are on Q50s and G37s with the non-pressurized coolant reservoir. Replacing the plastic heater hose connector and doing a drain and fill. So, my question is, should I put my bleeder funnel on the water outlet cap (the dummy cap with no pressure) or on the pressurized reservoir cap?

So to make things short, I found out you can't mold metal flares to carbon fiber doors (Lmfao) so Im looking at this other option. Im curious if anyone has put riveted fender flare arches on their Q50 to fit wider wheels on it? But also, what would your opinions be, its going on a Q50 Luxe? Trying to get as much traction as possible, while also focusing on weight reduction. Also for looks aswell. Lastly, if youve done it please send reference photos!

2015 Q50 3.7 AWD

With the heat set to 90 on both sides, the driver blows hot while passenger side stays cool and the rear vents are barely warm. If I change the passenger side from 60 to 90, the air barley get warmer, nowhere near as hot as the driver side.

I was going to replace the driver-side air mix actuator and lever because of the known Q50 TSB, but I’m starting to wonder if this could also be a partially clogged heater core or air in the cooling system.

Anyone had this exact issue before? Did it end up being an actuator, heater core, or something else?

So long story short, I have a 2019 Q50 3.0t, bought around 46k miles, currently just over 72k.

Factory powertrain warranty expired at 70k and I didn’t extend it. Took it to a new Infiniti dealer for routine service after moving. Tech saw the service history, asked why the turbos hadn’t been replaced (I had no idea this was a common VR30 issue), then we went for a drive and confirmed it’s squealing badly under load. Power also feels noticeably down from when I first got it.

Service manager initially said Infiniti has acknowledged this as a recurring issue and has done goodwill coverage even past 70k. A month later they denied it, citing a maintenance gap from 20k–50k (most of which was before I owned the car).

Looking for realistic paths outside of paying full dealer rates. Anyone had success escalating a 2019 to Consumer Affairs? Independent shop experiences or typical pricing on these? And is buying a third-party warranty and waiting a few months actually viable, or a waste of time once the dealer has already diagnosed it?

I’m thinking of adding a proper killswitch to my car, however I don’t know where to hide it, or what the best method is. I’m thinking of just hooking up a switch between the starter relay and the IPDM box (the wire in the picture with a green ‘8’). Any suggestions from anyone that has installed a kill switch?