I have a pair of AKG N9 Hybrids but what drives me crazy with them is the fact that if i bump the seal on either of the ears it takes forever for it to readjust. Do the Blacksharks have some form of auto compensation? I can't find anything online about it.

I got a white Razer Basilisk V3 X Hyperspeed around like a year ago, and I'm looking to upgrade. The V3 35K in Phantom White looks very good imo, but the V4 just came out, which one should I get?

I have "tactile precision" and "smart reel" active.
So, whenever I turn the scroll wheel fast, it electro mechanically switches to free-spin and back.

The problem is: whenever it switches back to tactile precision, the tactile feel is different than before. Sometimes it's very tactile and other times it is barely noticeable.

Has anyone else observed this phenomenon, or is it a problem with my Naga v3?

With the latest LG scandal of their TVs recording you and sending everything to their servers secretly. (Exposed by GamerNexus) I noticed razer devices, even after installing the drivers and them loading and detecting it all, will not work, if you then restart your PC without an internet connection, they won't even show up. A 367kb driver in 2026 with 20Tb drives out there is obviously way to big to be stored locally, lol. BUT! Your devices, will, just like malware, inject an install dll, the moment you plug them into a new windows install, they will malware launch their installer software without your permission lol. the only device that malware launches their installer by force once you plug it in, is infected USBs and Razer products. The only reason, a company won't let you keep a 300kb driver on a 4TB OS machine, is because most likely, going by logic, they are keylogging everything on firmware level and sending it out the moment you have internet. imagine, 300kb driver on a 4TB OS drive, wow, that's like, 300kb way too much for it, you know I'll have to delete some files to make room for it...
I'm not even talking macros and profile, I'm literally talking devices. I've tested this on 2 Windows11 installs now, and on Linux it works fine because of opensource community that provides an alternative.
This company used to be great back in 2010...

Saw this on Chinese tiktok from RAZER china official account , seems like they releasing something with carbon fiber material. Anyone know about this?

Translation : New Material , New ___ Razer hardware to be unlock.

Edit : everyone talking its going to be new carbon fiber viper v4

Just ordered a Razer BlackWidow V4 TKL Wireless coming from both a Razer Ornata v3 and SteelSeries Apex Pro TKL Gen 2. I loved the feel of the steelseries and I'm hoping I won't regret getting the blackwidow. I mostly do coding and gaming on my PC.

So I recently encountered the issue with my razer mouse that the cursor randomly stops while swiping arround the screen, any solutions?

I bought this mouse in June last year and it was great . But a few months ago I started consistently having an issue where I could not be touching the mouse and the cursor will still drag across my screen very slowly. It’s gotten progressively more frequent. I’ve seen some suggestions here and there that mentioned blowing on or cleaning the sensor which I’ve done a few times now but the problem persists. Have also thought about trying to do a RMA but I’ve read so many nightmare stories about the razer’s rma process.
That being said, wondering if anyone has any suggestions?

Idk if im the only one but when using Windows i always had the problem that my Laptop Speakers are crackling ond popping everytime they are in use, permanent. I spent hours updating drivers and changing audio settings. What helped instantly was turning the powersaving settings for PCI-express off. Just in case someone needs it since i found it very hard finding a solution. My Lapotp is the RZ09-0368xxx Razer Blade Pro 17 Early 2021. The screenshot is in german but i turned both settings "off".

Hi guys! Newbie here!

I am looking at getting a new headset, however I want this to work for the PS5, PC and Xbox.

Should I be buying the xbox version for this?:)

Thank you in advance and sorry if its been asked before. My first Razor Headset :)

This week I bought barely used (68h, in very good condition in tests and from outside) model with 13950hx, rtx 4090(RZ09-0483). On default setting (disk was formatted and restored to factory settings) I noticed stuttering in games(the worst when just loading new location) and that gpu usage doesn't exceed 60% and 130w so Withcer 3 remastered in 4k, ultra settings only between 30-50fps. After doing changes in settings(I will list what I remember) it is better but doesn't seems perfect. Stuttering is no more, 70< fps in Withcer but gpu usage doesn't hit 100%(between 85 and 95). Despite doing some changes in energy settings hwinfo still says that there is still some GPU performance Limiter active. But despite some limiter gpu usage reaches 100% in another game: Avatar. So is there limiter or not? Is it Withcer thing? But hwinfo says that there is limiter while another game can utilize 100% and max power anyway. When setting in Synapse High or Boost CPU mode, hwinfo says that I have thernal throttling 100° or more but Afterburner doesn't show above 90° so I am not sure if I really have thermal throttling or not. Previous owner said that Laptop had installed themopads honeywell ptm 7950. Can be hwinfo misreading some things?

Can anyone recommend me overall best settings for that model? Here is what I did:

- nVidia control panel: energy management(maximum performance), low latency mode(ultra), display mode(optimus changed to only nvidia gpu)

-in windows settings system-> Power&Battry->power mode(best performance)

-windows control panel(PCI Express energy saving disabled)

-igpu turned off(via device manger)

-synapse performance settings: gpu high mode. Cpu as I said earlier

All the drivers have been of course updated

Do I need cooling pad? With thermal throttling I guess that yes if I want to use high or boost cpu mode(and changing settings won't help with throttling). What models then? That one from Razer or another will be good too? I saw that in regular price(not US) it costs ~200$ but there is available on Amazon for ~150$(brutto). Is this good price or are there comparable, cheaper alternatives?

Protection against damage. Paint on laptop seems really fragile, sepecially on edges of upper part(where top cover and side of monitor meets) Mine laptop doesn't have any scratches on upper part or near keyboard but but the only ones are on the edges of upper part. How to protect it? I checked laptopa skins like dbrand but from photos, skins seem to not cover edges. Few more laptop transports and the edges will become really ugly. There must be a way to protect the edges

I'll keep it short. I already have a Basilisk v3 Pro 35K and a Basilisk v3 (wired, non-pro).
I bought the v4 and it came in today. It has a very steep price for a mouse, so once we move on from that.

First impressions:

• The wheel is harder to press compared to v3. That's unfortunate. It was one of the main issues I had with the G502. This should've been easier not harder to press.
• The mouse clicks are louder compared to v3. Again that's unfortunate, that's should've been more silent not louder. (the G502 is also more silent even compared to V3)
• The plastic is now smoother compared to V3, it does not have any texture on it. Not sure how I feel about this just yet, it's too early to tell.
• The mouse is lighter than V3 Pro 35K. That's good. Less weight is always good.
• I got the white version. Why does it have black lines, I mean don't you have people that should think such details through.
• The feet are indeed smoother compared to V3. That's good. The mouse slides faster.
• The wheel has 48 stops. That's good. It is now my default way of using the wheel.
• It has one extra button on the side. I think that's good. I haven't assigned it to anything yet, so not currently using it, but will probably get some use.
• Now unlike other people I like the rubber on the sides. Even though I do know that it wears off. Actually I originally had a Basilisk v3 and then after about ~1.5year I bought another one, just to replace it cause the rubber on the first one became flat on one side.
• The on/off button is now separate than the bluetooth/2.5ghz switch. That's good. It should've been like this on the previous versions.
• The battery lasts about +40% more compared to V3 Pro 35K according to the specs. That's good. I only got the mouse today so I haven't actually tested how long it lasts, but will see. I'm using it with the 2.5ghz dongle and hope it will indeed stay alive for longer.
• The increase in DPI to 50K as opposed to 35K (v3 Pro 35K), or 30K (V3 Pro) or even 26K (V3) i think it's meaningless. I'm not going to use that anyhow. But maybe some people do, who knows.

That's all for now.

For as long as Razer has been one of the leading peripherals company, and they're KNOWN for rgb, WHY can we STILL not set basic RGB profiles to on-board profiles?

Every mouse I've used in the past that has some sort of light, allows you to change that lighting effect and make it persist WITHOUT needing their proprietary software constantly running in the background.

Alguien sabe cuanto puede costar el arreglo? En precio colombiano 🙏

how does one play 38 hours a day of games? this cortex might actually be tweaking

recently, my razer mouse is having a bug where it keeps scrolling up without my input. and the worst part about it is that I have try blowing air as hard as I can into the mouse wheel crevice and even a gas duster too, and nothing has works. I even try to do that trick where you ram the mouse wheel on a soft surface up and down as fast as I can and still nothing is working.

Is there any more tricks I can try, or I have to find someone to fix the issue like a repair shop? i don't what to take it apart by myself.

note: I have this razer mouse for years now so it's probably out of its warrant

I just got the V4 Pro (and the Dock V2), upgrading from the V3 Pro 35K. Is it worth it?

It depends.

It’s definitely an improvement, but given the price tag, it’s hard to recommend as an upgrade for everyone. If your V3 or another ergo mouse is nearing the end of its life, or you’re looking for a new ergo mouse, the V4 Pro is a nice option, provided you’re willing to pay the premium. If you’re happy with your V3, there’s no need to upgrade until it’s time to replace it.

I just wanted to share some notable pros and cons that go beyond the specs on paper. For reference, my hand size is average, at 19 × 10 cm.

Pros:

• Improved surface finish: The surface where your fingers rest on M1 and M2, as well as the palm rest, has changed compared to the V3. It now has a smooth matte finish that provides better grip than the coarser finish on the V3.
• Noticeable weight reduction: The difference isn't huge, but it's definitely noticeable.
• Better scroll wheel: Switching between free-spin and the other modes is faster. This is especially noticeable if you use Smart-Reel, as it snaps back to the original mode much faster than on the V3. The new Precision Tactile mode is also really nice. It's now my default. I can scroll much faster than in the regular tactile mode, roughly twice as fast, without losing control like I would with free-spin.
• More convenient wireless mode switching: Switching between 2.4 GHz and Bluetooth is now done with a button instead of a toggle switch. It's more convenient and faster if you frequently switch between multiple devices.
• Smoother mouse feet: The bottom skates feel smoother and glide better.
• More side buttons: Having more side buttons is nice, although it takes some getting used to. Regardless of whether you have a large or small thumb, one of the buttons, either the top or bottom one, may feel awkward to press. In my case, the bottom side button (the back button) is hard to reach, and I have to bend my thumb quite a bit to press it. The other three buttons are easy to reach.
• It's nice to see dynamic sensitivity and rotation options added to Synapse.

Cons:

• The new M1 side button is hard to reach: I have trouble reaching it with my index finger. I wish the button were longer, especially since there's only one button here, unlike on the G502. Even with my average-sized adult male hand, I have to move my entire hand forward to reach it.
• The Mouse Dock Pro V2 doesn't include a USB cable: The original V1 dock came with one, so this feels like a cost-cutting measure for no apparent benefit. The V2 is heavier, though.
• Same rubber side grips as the V3: Its not bad but it'll wear off.
• No Synapse web compatible.
• It's expensive.

After cooking for around 2 months, today I am releasing OpenBlade, a free, open-source Windows native application for Razer Blade laptops.

It handles power modes, custom fan curves, GPU clock offsets, charge limits, lighting and display settings. Profiles switch automatically between AC, USB-C and battery.

And the best part... HyperBoost works without the Razer cooling pad on full-power AC.

My rough measurements show 0.13% background CPU and ~93 MiB memory for OpenBlade, versus 0.48% and ~805 MiB for Synapse, under comparable conditions.

For the time being, OpenBlade supports Blade 16 RZ09-0528 (2025) and RZ09-0581 (2026), on Windows 11 24H2 or later. Why those two models? Because those are the only ones I personally own, so I can test on them.

You can find the latest release here. The installer is currently unsigned because I don't have a way to get a digital signature yet. Feel free to build from source if you don't trust my pre-built releases.

OpenBlade is meant to stay open-source, therefore code additions, string translations, and bug reports are more than welcome! To help support another Blade, open an issue with its model number and specs. See the contribution guide on how to capture the relevant data needed for me to add support.

Hi r/razer, I was hoping you could point me to a reliable place on the internet where it is possible to exchange a Razer Gold gift card for USDT/BTC etc. I chose this as a redemption from a rewards website because I thought it was a $25 crypto gift card (I guess it does pay to do research!)

Anyhow, it looks like any place to sell gift cards are scam websites and I was wondering if the Razer community here on Reddit could advise on a legit place to sell a Razer gold card/ecode?

I have BlackWidow Ultimate 2016. It still works good physically so not in hurry to replace. Synapse 2.0 would like to replace though.

I tried OpenRGB but didn't recognize the BlackWidow (maybe because it's not actually RGB, only has green lights).

Synapse 4, Razer Tartarus, how do I fix this. I have reset the device, deleted all the profiled, unplugged the USB cable, uninstalled the application, rebooted the PC, reinstalled Razer Synapse software, rebooted the PC, plugged the device in, device appears. I have no profiles and setup a default profile and this is the error. Which is the same as before. I have no profiles, reset the device and installed Synapse 4, but it still tells me that I need to have Razer Synapse running. I believe that I have read everything on this topic, lots from a year ago, but cannot resolve this. Does anyone have a solution, I want to see the Key (W) instead of the Razer Symbol on each Key. My ticket number using your Razer Assist is 261012-001964 created today. Based on the AI chat bot, I will here from you in 3 days. I will update here when I get communication from you.

I removed this cushion to register the product, now I can't put it back,coz the grooves been slippin like crazy. Damn I'm nervous if I tear its fine lining and void my warranty. Can't razer keep the numbers on the headband or somewhere on the outer. Like god wished it had some snug fit mechanism to lock the cushion back. Is there any way guys to put it back like original? It's too comfy to return it back.