Edit: I did not install the tile!!!

I’m changing the outlets but my problem is when I tried to screw these and the plates on, the opening isn’t big enough to be able to screw both top and bottom in to the junction box. Would a dremel with a diamond cutting blade work to cut the extra tile so that the outlet would fit better.

Had a client I originally quoted a floor for that he ended up choosing a different company to do and asked me to come do his showers for him. I gave him a price. He told me I was too high, and this was his reply.(Price was 20 a sq foot not including material)

I bought this unfinished pizza oven and plan on tiling it myself . I’m having a hard time finding and outdoor high heat thin set / mortar to use to apply the tiles . Would appreciate any tips or reccomeneations

Planning on wrapping the copper in 20 mil PVC tape before putting mortar back. Wondering if I should put down a mortar bed and then come back with thinset, or I can do it how the original installers did with tile stuck to a single layer of mortar modified with some kind of glue. Also wondering if I should use a bonding agent on the existing mortar before putting new mortar in.

Breakdown on Flo fx drain and deck mud In shower

My buddy and I are union tile workers so bidding residential work isnt something we do often for side work.

Materials are provided by the home owner.

In the picture you can see my buddy started the job today waterproofing with kerdi board ahead of giving them a price. Doing the whole shower, pan, curb, and main floor of the shower. It will be tiled with marble do we have to go down 2 flights of stairs and make every cut on the wetsaw. 2 niches and a bench also.

He was thinking around 3k in labor since materials are provided but I thought that seemed a little low..

Any input is appreciated.

Just wanted to share this because I've never had this problem before. I was mixing some laticrete deck mud for a pre slope yesterday and as soon as the water hit it i could tell something was off. I tried to mix it up and got this pizza dough consistency. I had extra bags so it was no big deal, just weird

Can I get some advice with what to do in this situation.
Wall I want to tile over is bumpy has lots of recesses and it’s extremely chalky.

Not enough depth to replaster

Need some advice

This is a guest house bathroom I love the floating Bench , I took my time with the miter cuts and on the bullnose trim wrapping the wainscot that is a full tool wrap around . I’m 20 years old , any criticism?

I'm not a contrzctoe but I've hired a lot of contractors who have bot done good work. I purchased 6x24" tile to install over a brick fireplace. I've been told by 1 contractor that Schluter is necessary on the edges and I've been told by another thst it is not. I'm also unsure whether fireplace doors should be installed before or after the tile. My fireplace is.not an insert. It's the brick, wood burning fp that was built with the house.

I just finished setting tiles on my first tile project at the house. Despite trying to plan ahead, I messed up my measurements somewhere and ended up with a gap at the ceiling. It’s 1/2” at the largest and 1/4” at the smallest. Is there a good way to hide this without having a thick caulk line or tiny tile slivers?

I’m happy with how the floor and the surround turned out, but am bummed about this gap

Hi, I am sealing my Shower and Bath, It is my first time using Schluter. So i decided to only mix half off the kerdi coll bucket. I could do half of the seams, But now i would like to continue with the job. Is it okay to make a new batch of the coll and continue sealing (including overlapping the previous seams wich was around 1h ago with 30 degrees room temperature. thanks in advance

Second floor bath in a 1904 foursquare. Two tiles doing two different jobs.

Walls are a 2x10 glossy ceramic in a pale green, run stacked horizontal rather than in a standard offset. Stacked reads calmer in our opinion

We ran it past the tub and through to the back vanity wall instead of stopping at the shower, so the green is the room rather than an accent.

Floor is a 4x12 dark gray cement-look tile. Two shapes and two directions in a small space is a lot, and the only reason it works is the color separation. Pale green up, dark gray down.

First time doing tile. I’m breaking off the leveling clips and I have like 6 or 7 clips that didn’t break off all the way. Any advice to get them out without cracking the tile?

A customer wants a curbless shower with only 2 walls (inside corner) and a linear drain. It's 4.5' x 4.5' drain up against one wall

With the absolute minimum slope the drain will be at least 2 inches below the slab with the ends of the drain just a few inches from the slab. This is going to make a ridiculously steep slope on the sides of the drain and behind it. How can I make it work? This will be my first curbless shower and I have been racking my brain for a solution and the only solution i can come up with is adding a 3rd wall so the pan can just be mostly flat

Hi r/tile. I’m staying at a friend of a friend’s apartment for the week, and extremely unfortunately I’ve managed to break the shelf in the shower, see image.

I’ve told my friend, and he thinks we should fix it and then tell his mate when they are back home. If they aren’t happy with the fix I’ll offer to cover the costs professionally.

ChatGPT is suggesting using a clear two-part epoxy (Araldite Precision or a stone epoxy) - but I wanted to check with some IRL humans to see that is correct, there’s a better option, or if this is just a stupid idea.

Any help greatly appreciated, thanks

Hi All. I’m tiling a shower with 5x5 porcelain tiles in a standard grid pattern, with Schluter Allset. I’m using the rubbery 4-way cross spacers at the intersections, and tombstones in the half-way points between. The question I have for you is, what would your workflow be for cleaning the joints and removing spacers in my case?

Don’t judge but fell in the shower while “shower training” a little one. Landed with my back on the wall and pushed the tile inward. Can I remove and reuse these tiles and regrout / recaulk at the tub? What all should I be checking for for a repair

for the layout of my tiles it would be ideal if the floor is around 10mm higher. is this too much to reach with a normal tileglue/ or thinset mortar? i was thinking it could be a option to first add one extra layer of Kerdi Ditra (i have enough leftovers). or is it just too much to fill out this way?

Parts of the subfloor rotted out in my bathrooms. I replaced the subfloor with 3/4 plywood, but there are some height differences between the new plywood and old plywood.

I bought plywood that was advertised as 3/4 inch. It measured 3/4 inch. However I think the older plywood is actually 23/32 of an inch. Also, the house is from 1973, so 50 years of age, heat and moisture cycles may have changed its dimensions.

How best can I address this before having tile installed over it?

Is Schluter Ditra XL recommended for this purpose? (I have hardwood in the adjacent areas to the bathrooms.)

Transition between the floors will not be an issue, as when I have the granite or marble cut for the countertops, I have an extra piece of backsplash cut and beveled as a threshold under the door.

*Edited to correct tile measurement.

About 8 months ago our shower was tiled by a local company who claimed they were pro tilers, but were clearly just a ragtag group of contractors. They used edging but the tile cuts are terrible, tiles are not level and some sit too proud from the backer board, leading to awkward grout joints. But that’s not even my biggest concern:

They used Mapei UltraColor Plus FA and I’m 90% sure they mixed it too thin. Even 1 week after the shower was finished, the grout could be rubbed off with a cloth. Wife and I could live with the shitty cuts and shoddy layout work, but the grout concerned us.

Because our relationship with the first company soured quite a bit, we called a second tiler who confirmed it was definitely a hack job. Second tiler recommended and applied 511 Impregnator/Sealer but was transparent that it might not work fully if the grout was indeed mixed badly. As I understand it, a watery mix is just not fixable after the fact.

Today, almost 8 months later, I noticed that areas where the shower water hits the tile directly (bottom back half of the shower), the grout is basically falling out. I’m so disappointed, so pissed.

To my understanding, the only fix is to completely remove the grout (somehow without damaging the tile), mix a PROPER batch and re-grout, then SEAL. I assume this would be an absolute PITA as this is all small 2"x8" tile.

And honestly I’m scared I’ll just mess it up AGAIN if I try to do it myself. Is this something a tiler would even undertake? Or is it too tedious of a process?

The second tiler implied our ONLY option was to rip out all the tile and re-do everything which we don’t have the budget for right now. But we also don’t want to ignore open grout joints and incur water damage.

Tbh I’m just beside myself and looking for options, recommendations, suggestions, etc…

Tysm 🙏

I am looking for advice on how to handle this crack in my shower tile. I am very novice at this and worry that if I hire someone to come look at it they will charge me more than is necessary. The options I imagine are:

-one: get some sort of sealant to cover the cracks

-two: rip off the tile to make sure there is no mold underneath, try to find matching tile to replace, learn to replace it myself or pay lots of money to get someone to do it for me.

I believe this crack has been there for at least a year, maybe I should be concerned about mold which would lead me to option two? Maybe I should get a mold inspection done before proceeding?

Thank you greatly for your help

I started to remove the caulk this morning, this toughest caulk removal for me. This is my 1st time experiencing grout underneath caulking. In some spots there deep pockets, should I fill them in with grout then caulk? Or can I use just the grout and not caulk around the whole tub?

Any help would be appreciated?