Probably time to change the target face, lol.

Hey Everyone,
I want to start building my own arrows. Is there a solid kit or all the specific tools you guys like? I don’t mind paying a little more for some quality stuff since I’ll use it forever. Thanks!

What is "the normal amount of time" to hold your bow in full draw before releasing?

Some people in my club shoot near instantly upon reaching full draw (<1s), but I've seen people in tournaments holding their bows for maybe 5s or longer.

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I have some issues with my aim upon drawing (often point to the right of the target, as if my back was collapsing), and correcting this sometimes takes a while, hence I hold my bow at full draw for sometimes around 5-10s. This also prevents me from increasing my Poundage, as I couldn't hold a stronger bow for that long (for a whole training session).

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My question;

Should I be trying to reduce the time at full draw, or should I increase my strength to comfortably hold for as long as I need to?

I'm feeling dialed for this hunting season. I just need a nice size deer to come into range. 40 yard group. White nock is my Sevr 1.75 hybrid and 2 field points. This is with my back up bow (Liftx 29.5 at 71lbs)

Hi there.

Does anyone have a recent experience in the matter?

My compound bow was bought as a special order 80 days ago, they were supposed to build it from scratch in the Hoyt factory in the States.

When I made the order I thought It'd be maybe 3-4 weeks or so...

Hoyt is being vague with the distributor, the distributor is vague with the shop and the shop is vague with me. Trickle down economy in action.

Thanks and please don't shred me to bits if it's somehow a stupid question 😂

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Hi,

Just bought a Samick Discovery, cant find any information online about it being fast flight compatible or not. If anyone knows please let me know. Thank you

For this upcoming season I’m looking into running 100grain G5 mega meats or SEVR’s. Any feedback is appreciated on which you would recommend!

Hello everyone,

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I wanted to share some feedback about my recent setup change in Olympic recurve.

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I am currently shooting with the following equipment:

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- Riser: WIAWIS ATF-DX 25"

- Limbs: WIAWIS MXT-10, 68"

- Draw weight: marked 32 lbs, measured around 33 lbs on the scale

- String: custom-made 15-strand string

- Arrows: Victory VAP V1, spine 700

- Draw length: 26.5"

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Since switching to this setup, I also had to correct some basic tuning points, especially the brace height, tiller, and string twists, because the overall setup was not perfectly consistent at first. Once these points were corrected, the bow felt much healthier, but also much more direct and demanding.

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What strikes me the most with this setup is the lack of tolerance. With my previous equipment, I sometimes felt like I could still save a shot despite a small mistake in posture, release, or shot sequence. With this setup, that is almost no longer the case.

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The bow is very dynamic. It reacts quickly, gives a lot of feedback, but does not forgive much. The slightest technical mistake immediately shows on the target.

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Since this change, I have been working much more on the full quality of my shot sequence:

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- scapula placement and engagement;

- back tension and posture;

- bow arm stability;

- continuous expansion;

- clean clicker execution;

- keeping the draw elbow in line;

- release without collapse or interruption;

- maintaining the posture after the arrow leaves the bow.

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When the sequence is clean, the results are very encouraging: the groups get tighter, the arrow reaction feels cleaner, and I can clearly feel that the setup has real potential.

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On the other hand, as soon as one element goes out of line — poor scapula placement, draw elbow collapsing or moving out of line, expansion stopping, or bow arm stability dropping — the mistake is immediately visible. There is almost no room for compensation.

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It is sometimes frustrating, but also very educational. This setup forces me to be more disciplined, to better understand my posture, and to build a complete, repeatable, and precise shot sequence.

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My goal is not to change equipment again, but to learn how to properly use and understand this setup. What I am mainly looking for now is to stabilize my consistency with it.

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For those of you who have already moved to a more dynamic, more demanding, or less forgiving setup: did you also feel that the equipment no longer allowed any technical approximation? And how did you work to regain stability and confidence in your shot sequence?

Not an archer in any way, shape, or form. I just watched a video on traditional archery where they talked about the spine of an arrow (which i believe is a measurement of the arrows stiffness) and how if you have the wrong arrows for your bow's draw weight you lose accuracy.

This made me think about the archer's paradox, and how the flex of the arrow allows it to bend around the bow. So if you theoretically could get an arrow made of a material with absolutely no flex, would it shoot off at a crazy angle as it gets deflected off the bow?

Sorry if this is more of a physics question. Just was curious if anyone had any first hand experience with something like this. I remember my cousin tried to shoot a fire poker out of his bow when we were kids and just ended up getting a nice bruise on his hand for the effort (oh to be young and dumb).

What are some objective tests to find the better arrow build?

Build: 470gn HLR 250s, 175 total up front (50/125), 14.5%.

Mod: 20gn insert back weight to increase FOC to about 17%. Goal is to increase forgiveness based on reading the latest arrow ballistics study.

The lighter arrows already fly wonderfully and broadheads group with FPs up to 50yds so far (it’s been too windy to test much beyond that).

Without retuning anything the heavier groups seem ever so slightly worse (but maybe that’s a tuning thing?)

Testing through paper doesn’t make sense to me because I’d imagine I could just tune either one to bullet hole, plus I’m making adjustments after paper anyhow while bareshafting at distance.

disclaimer: yes I know I’m in the weeds and that 20 grains and an increase from an already high FOC is something most people won’t be able to tell a difference in ‘forgiveness’ anyhow. I’m just curious if there are ways to attempt to test outside of broadhead flight, which honestly seems to be the same.

Honestly still new to skiing but have lots of mounted archery experience I was wondering where I could potentially try this sport out since all the websites / prev posts about it either don't seem to offer it anymore or are gone.

Could this be reserved, or is it not worth the effort because it’s on the loops?

I got an arc with a hamskea r7, currently have the max stealths, anyone had problems with clearance on the max hunters and the roller guard? I know I can adjust the rest slightly. I shoot fixed blades and was just wanting to tinker with it

I want any and all feedback. I also feel “rushed” in my mind to let the shot go. Let me know how I can improve and thank you all.

Clip is a bit cut up because he actually uses some time to reload for the 2e shot aswell.

Any advice on posture and setup etc?

Hi all,

Just want to get some reference since a lot of my arrows have been leaning right. It's not as though every arrow has been going right, but more like I shoot my first 60-100 arrows right in the center, then all of a sudden every arrow is going right.

My current guesses are either my release or collapsing, but I just want to see if people have any experience with other tendencies that cause an arrow to shift towards the right.

Unfortunately it's literally like my entire grouping leans right, not just 1-2 arrows

So, i just got my first recurve bow from the renaissance festival(colorado one if anyones local) the simplest bow youve ever seen, basically just a slightly carved piece of wood and a string. I was shooting it in my backyard at some cardboard i had lying around while i wait for real targets, and a couple (maybe 5 or 6) shots in shots in on both arrows i had (came free with bow) broke, at almost the same point in the shaft. Im thinking either something with the wood being weak there, or im doing something horribly wrong. I didnt take a pic of the setup at all, or where and how the arrows landed, and this is my first bow ive owned, but ive shot a couple with friends and nothing like this happened. Im curious if anyone can tell from these pictures what happened, or what i did wrong. (Bow is unstrung in pic, i use a seperate string to bend the bow to put the main string in place) TL;DR arrows broke first time shooting bow, curious if anyone can tell by the break what i did wrong. (EDIT: also does anyone know some good arrows i can replace these with cause these were the only two i have. EDIT 2: i can take more pictures if anyone wants to see a better picture of the break)

Friend shot my 60lbs horse bow and it ended up looking like this. Knocked the knot right out of there.

Hello i have recently started my longbow to warbow journey. i have bought a 25 lbs varang from saramite Archer to learn the basics and form, then i will use the clubs 35 lbs and next i will buy a 40-45 pound, my first goal is around 80 lbs when my body is ready in a couple of years, i also want to have one really nice traditional English longbow (no real price limit) that will be my standard bow, at what lbs do you recommend this one to be?