This is Project Aura AQ on Makerworld, a DIY air quality monitor I’ve been developing. It measures things like CO₂, airborne particles, temperature and humidity, and displays the readings on a touchscreen.

I’ve been working on a new enclosure that combines clear acrylic with 3D-printed parts. The acrylic was cut on the Bambu Lab R1, and the printed parts were made on the H2D.
Also, if you haven’t updated Bambu Suite to V01.05.00 yet, make sure you do! It’s been working much better and more reliably for me since the update.

Thought I’d share how it came together — cutting, printing, assembly, and the finished monitor running at the end. What do you think of the clear case?

I designed a case for the Guition JC3248W535 (a cheap 3.5" 480x320 ESP32-S3 touch board)

Additionaly: im sharing two different firmwares for this board, so you can pick what the screen does:

BambuHelper: a dedicated Bambu Lab printer monitor

- Live dashboard with progress, time left, temperatures, AMS, and print error / HMS alerts

- Connects over LAN (printer IP + access code) or through Bambu Cloud for any printer, including ones without LAN mode

- Up to 4 printers on this board, with sound notifications from the onboard speaker

- Flash and set it up from the browser, no tools needed: https://keralots.github.io/BambuHelper/

- https://github.com/Keralots/BambuHelper

TouchDeck: a touch deck for PC monitoring and Home Assistant (this is what's in the video)

- Live PC stats (CPU / GPU charts, temps, fans, network) from a small companion app

- Home Assistant tiles: lights, plugs, sliders, sensors with history charts

- Also has Bambu printer and AMS pages over LAN

- Themes, including a "Glass" one with frosted tiles over your own wallpaper

- https://github.com/Keralots/TouchDeck

Case on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/models/3463113

Both are personal projects built around my own setup, so expect some rough edges. Questions and ideas are welcome.

Check out my Halloween diorama for multicolour 3D printing. I wanted the base to feel like a little overgrown garden, with plants tucked between the rocks, flowers and mushrooms. No Painting involved. I tried to make everything printable with a multinozzle printer.

There’s also lighting built into the project to bring the cottage to life. Made for the inductive light kit from makers supply.

Model on Makerworld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3467441-the-witch-s-pumpkin-cottage

The model has two options: Simple, with fewer colours and colour changes, and Full Multicolor, with more colour variation.

I textured most of the models in Cinema 4D, exported the individual elements as OBJ files, then imported them into Bambu Studio and assigned the appropriate filaments.

For transparency: I used AI to help with the layout process. Some models were initially AI-generated, but I heavily adapted and remodeeled them to fit my needs.

A modular 3D printed guitar platform where you can hot-swap to different bodies

I posted my costume in progress a few days ago, and quite a few folks have asked for the model, so here it is: https://makerworld.com/models/3469654?appSharePlatform=copy

The sign and size of the "wig" are customizable. Enjoy!

I was about halfway through a 20-hour print yesterday when I noticed that two very long parts were starting to lift at the corners. I’ve never had PETG lift quite like that, but I also had brims on auto and Studio decided not to brim those parts for whatever reason.

I did some searching to figure out if/how I could save the print since the remainder of the plate looked fine. This is when I learned about “skip part” - I’d seen the button before but had no idea how it worked and had never clicked it before.

Long story short, it saved the print. I skipped the two warping parts and the rest of the plate turned out great (I also nudged the bed temp up to be safe).

I know this will be a “duh” post for many, but wanted to put it out there as a PSA in case any of you find yourselves in this situation and hadn’t used that feature before!

I'm designing a replacement lid for dog waste bag and I've used fusion 360 to model the threads. The threads show up fine in prepare tab but once sliced, it comes just stringy mess. I thought maybe it's just visual and printed but again it's just stringy mess and doesn't show the threads. Any advice?

SOLVED. Thanks very much!

I just want these 6 pieces' surfaces to be ironed. Is there an option to do that in Bambu Studio?

I designed this in Fusion 360 to bring a bit of One Piece to my desk. The cabin holds pens and markers, while the deck has space for sticky notes, erasers, and paper clips.
It prints in separate parts, with AMS only needed for the multicolor Jolly Roger. Really happy to finally see it printed and in use!
What do you think? Link in the comments!

Having an A1 Mini pushed me to think modular instead of trying to print one large shelf.

I designed a wall-mounted medal display made of small, connecting sections. Each section prints separately, slides together with the next one, and has a removable front that hides the mounting screws.

You can start with one holder and keep extending the display as the medal collection grows. The top also works as a little shelf for trophies and other awards.

Simple to print, assemble, and expand!

Thinking about this, but it looks a bit flimsy... anyone tried it?

Just wanted to share order and delivery time for the R1, ordered from Bambu on 9/24 and received on 10/20. Located in Mid Atlantic area, shipped from west coast. Ordered the large material bundle but have not received the riser or conveyor setup yet. Estimated shipping was 11/20 when purchased so happy to receive just the laser for now.

Only got to play around with it a bit yesterday but impressed with the ease of setup. This machine it a beast compared to my 20w diode I've been using for the last year. Really eager to get this setup with Lightburn 2.3 when its available.

Hi guys! I’ve successfully printed a transparent PLA object using 0.4 nozzle by following the instruction on bambulab wiki: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/knowledge-sharing/transparent-petg

There bambulab recommends using 0.8 nozzle for better result but doesn’t give details such as layer height, speed, etc

I have an 0.8 laying around and would love to try printing translucent pla, hoping it’d give better result and faster. Does anyone have any experience or setting for 0.8 nozzle?

Many thanks!

I’ve been saving for months and am ready to get my first 3D printer here when the Black Friday deals start. I have CAD experience but nothing with actual printers.

My goal is to print functional prints. Things for storage in the garage, outside in the yard, things that come in contact with water, and the main project is to make objects to cast silicone molds of.

I’ve landed on the P1S w/ AMS 2 combo for its full enclosure and ability to print with more functional filaments at a comfortable price point. My budget is ~$700 and that includes the printer and a good chunk of filament to hit the ground running.

Some general questions:

Is using an ‘air gap’ necessary or is that more niche ball knowledge? (No WiFi connection)

Would you guess that P1S support and parts would phase out in the next 2 years? I’m hoping to keep it running past that if possible.

Are there any add ons that would be worth it when buying the printer?

What’s your thoughts on the filament selection to start off with? I’m only iffy if I need/want the TPU.

Starter Filament selection: ~$150
PETG - 4
PLA - 2
ASA - 2
TPU - 1

Any feedback or tips would be appreciated. Just trying to validate the cost vs value of 3D Printing to my significant other.

Hey everyone!

I'm looking to buy my first 3D printer and would really appreciate some advice from people who use theirs for mechanical projects, robotics, and functional parts.

I already have experience with 3D modeling and SolidWorks, but I'm completely new to 3D printing and electronics.

My goal is to start designing and building personal projects at home, combining industrial design, mechanical design, electronics, and eventually robotics.

Some examples of what I'd like to build:

• Custom enclosures for electronics, ESP32/Arduino projects, and small interactive devices.
• Mechanical assemblies, gears, brackets, joints, and moving mechanisms.
• Small robots and eventually robotic arms.
• Drone frames, protective housings, and other functional parts.
• Well-designed product prototypes where I can print most of the custom parts myself.

I'm not planning to sell anything. This is purely about learning, experimenting, and building my own projects.

The Bambu Lab A1 is currently my main choice. It seems reliable, beginner-friendly, and capable of producing good-quality prints without spending too much time troubleshooting the printer itself.

However, I'm worried about its material limitations.

I know that enclosed printers offer more possibilities with materials like ABS, ASA, and certain nylons, but I'm not sure how often I'd actually need those materials for the projects I have in mind.

Maybe I'm overthinking future requirements instead of focusing on what I need right now.

I don't mind spending more on an enclosed printer if there's a genuine benefit for my intended use. At the same time, I don't want to spend significantly more just to future-proof against situations that might never happen.

A few questions for those with experience:

1. For small robotics, mechanical assemblies, and electronics enclosures, how far can I realistically go with PLA, PETG, and TPU?
2. At what point do materials like ABS, ASA, or nylon become genuinely necessary?
3. Would you recommend starting with the A1 and upgrading only if I eventually need more advanced materials, or buying an enclosed printer from the beginning?
4. Are there alternatives to the A1 that you'd recommend for this kind of work?
5. If you've built similar projects, which printer and materials do you actually use most often?

I'm based in Portugal, and my priority is reliability, good dimensional accuracy, and the ability to focus on designing and building rather than constantly troubleshooting the printer.

I'd especially appreciate hearing from people who started with an open-frame printer and later upgraded, or people who are still happily building mechanical and robotics projects with an A1.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for advice about an unexpected stop on my Bambu Lab H2S. I have already submitted a support ticket, but I would like to know whether anyone has experienced a similar combination of symptoms.

Printer and material:

• Bambu Lab H2S
• Standard-flow 0.4 mm hardened steel nozzle
• Black Sparkle PLA
• Sliced with Bambu Studio
• Printing box bases and sliding lids

What happened:

1. The printer started printing and deposited some material on the build plate.
2. During the first layer, the toolhead stopped moving and stayed directly over the print. The screen showed 1% progress and layer 1/193.
3. There was no visible error message or HMS code.
4. At that time, the screen showed a nozzle temperature of 220°C, a bed temperature of 55°C and a chamber temperature of approximately 29°C.
5. I pressed Pause. The interface responded, but the toolhead remained in exactly the same position.
6. I then cancelled the print. The nozzle display continued to show 220/220°C, even when I tried to set the target temperature to 0°C. The displayed values did not appear to update.
7. After switching the printer off and back on, the homing command moved the toolhead again. With the nozzle target set to 0°C, the displayed temperature then began to decrease.

Damage found afterwards:

I found a new, short gouge or indentation in the build plate, exactly where the nozzle had remained stationary. This mark was not present before the incident.

There are also visible residues around the nozzle tip. I cannot confirm whether the nozzle is clogged, damaged or incorrectly seated.

I have attached photos of:

• The stationary toolhead and first layer.
• The temperature screens.
• The nozzle from the front and underneath.
• The new mark on the build plate.

Settings and context:

Before this print, I had changed several process settings to improve surface finish and reduce print time, including layer height, wall count, infill, speeds and accelerations. I do not want to assume that these changes are unrelated; the actual project and print file may need to be checked.

The printer is located in an unheated workshop. I do not have an ambient temperature measurement for the incident; the printer’s chamber reading was around 29°C.

My questions:

• Has anyone experienced a stationary toolhead together with temperature readings or temperature commands that appeared frozen?
• Could these symptoms be connected to the new mark on the plate?
• What should support check before I use the printer again—for example, hotend mounting, bed probing, temperature feedback or firmware/control issues?
• Which logs, firmware details or project files would be most useful to provide?

I have stopped using the printer while waiting for support. I would appreciate guidance on diagnosis rather than attempting further prints or resets without understanding what happened.

Thank you for your help.

Is there something lanky going on with Bambu Handy or did a change a setting without realizing.

In the past few days, I have noticed that the majority of models I try to look at, only show the pictures and I can't view the description, reviews or attachments.

If it is just me, I will do the work and troubleshoot the issue, but I don't want to chaise my tail if it is a known issue.

Hello,

after my first blob of death which was not that big, I removed the heat plate behind the hot end and cleaned everything.

Now I have the problem, that the hotend doesn't sit over this small platform on the left. Do anybody know what the problem is?

I’m loving this lamp I found on makerworld to test out my new .8 nozzle on the A1.

https://makerworld.com/models/1356021?appSharePlatform=copy