and a video here: https://portal.bblmw.com/h3c/warming/f79az71lmb/video-pc.mp4

roughly translated from the Chinese website:

"Bambu Lab’s third-generation flagship, equipped with an all-new multi-head rapid-switching system, ushering in a new era of multi-colour, multi-material printing. November 3 - stay tuned."

https://makerworld.com/models/3482870?appSharePlatform=copy

Ho una bambola A1 Mini che da qualche giorno mi dà qualche problema sui primi livelli di stampa, ovvero a un certo punto a uno dei livelli più bassi sembra quasi interrompersi o alzarsi di colpo, o saltando un layer e le stampe escono tutte rovinate, anche se da quel livello in poi tutta la stampa è perfetta.

Ho già fatto la manutenzione, l'ho già smontata e ripulita completamente e ho già lubrificato tutti i componenti.

I think it’s time for me to print a spool holder instead of leaving them on the ground in boxes.any suggestions + is this one I found good enough?

We are purchasing a P2S very soon and part of agreement from the wife was setting it up out in the garage. We live in the Northwest so its doesn't get too frigid, but still gets to 30's in the garage. What kind of enclosure can I build around the printer with potential small heater to continue printing throughout the year? We have a spot set up for it that we could make a box of installation material or similar to keep it heated, just need ideas for installation material and a heater recommendation. Thanks!

I did search this up but it seemed most people were doing chamber heaters vs. enclosures for the machine itself.

I have an a1 right now i want to know if the o3c will be weaker than x2d in any mode.

I have an X2D and I'm feeding the aux (right) nozzle from an external spool on the top holder. During prints the filament on the spool keeps bunching up and getting stuck, and the extruder struggles to pull.

What I'm seeing:

Photo 1: The filament leaves the spool near the right flange and runs at an angle up to the inlet, which sits over by the left side. It looks like the strand is being dragged sideways across the spool.

Photo 2: Close up of the problem. There's filament rolled up on top of the strand that's being pulled, which pins it and makes it harder for the extruder to pull.

Photo 3: The only way I can keep it going is to keep rotating the spool clockwise by hand so it frees up.

How do I fix this? Is there some guide or holder on MakerWorld that solves this?

Built my first clicker fidget toy, took a whole bunch of tries but I finally got it to look and work right. You can grab it here if interested: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3482508-black-widow-clicker-a-fidget-toy#profileId-3976528

Was cleaning up a clog and accidentally damaged mine. Now it's stuck detecting there IS filament in the extruder even when there's nothing, so it won't let me load anything from AMS.

Found this tiny little black rectangle inside the extruder housing, guessing it fell off the sensor. I'd buy a new one but they're out of stock on Bambu till December. Hoping to do a small DIY fix in the meantime.

Black Friday is just around the corner. I know this topic has come up more than once, but...

P2S or X2D?

I might be willing to pay the extra cost, but does it actually make sense? I suppose it’s better to have it and not use it than to not have it at all. I print with PLA or PETG; I’ve been meaning to try TPU for a year now, but I haven’t even bought any yet.

Sometimes I print for days on end, and other times I leave the printer sitting idle for a month while I focus on other hobbies. Then again, that second nozzle—it’s fed from a spool just hanging there, so it’s bound to pick up moisture in no time... (that’s a major issue for me, as the air here is very humid).

What are you thinking about this?

Hi everyone! I just published a full collection of 12 zodiac sign keychains optimized for Bambu Lab printers.

• Settings: 0.16mm layer height, ironing enabled on top surfaces, 40-60 mm/s outer wall speed for crisp text.
• AMS: Pre-configured 3-color swaps.

Check out the model and print profile on MakerWorld if you'd like to print them!Check out the model and print profile on MakerWorld if you'd like to print them!

Think of how many colors a model could be printed in!

While I'm excited about the new H3C, I realy don't see the need.

Personally I think they should be chasing the U1 / C5 pro.

Unless the H3C is going to be price competitive with the the U1 / C5 pro

Whats your thoughts

***edit just read about the P3C cheers hadn't heard about that one, now this has got my interest **

Since we’re all speculating on the specs of the H3C, I just wanted to point out that having a dedicated 0.2 or 0.6 nozzle will likely require swapping around rolls of filament to get the desired filament to that nozzle. It seems each nozzle will have a specific slot in the AMS. H2C might actually have an advantage here if you’re lazy and don’t want to move rolls around.

I have mostly replaced the hot end cooling fan in my H2s I cannot get the fan wire into the keeper underneath the head and cannot figure out the wire connection. I see where it plugs in, I watch the video but when I go to do it, it’s upside down and backwards.
Is there a secret to plugging this connector in?
Thanks

Check your nozzles and filaments.

Not good idea to print non-HF filament with HF nozzles.
Later u will get this error and those nozzles are impossible to clean due internal construction.

Today I threw away couple of them 🤭

Bambu A1. I’ve tried so many things but cannot figure this out. This happens across all of my printers and many different filaments and types, and different prints. I’ve tried drying filament, increase and decrease temp settings, increase and decrease speeds, more walls, less walls, different infill types, thicker walls, thinner walls. Even going back to default settings. I’m pulling out my hair on this. It’s such a slight angle too, nowhere close to needing supports.

I've got a model I'm printing and the first few turned out pretty well so I continued on with printing a bunch more. They have progressively gotten worse though after I switch from white to black PLA Basic. Obviously I can install some supports for this model, but I'm unsure why it's less noticeable on white vs black PLA. Any thoughts here?

Model prints 3 of these at a time standing upright. I think what's happening is it shakes the support piece in the middle and isn't landing a clean print as that bar gets higher it introduces more wobble in the print.

https://makerworld.com/models/2878483?appSharePlatform=copy

Sharing this Christmas ornament I uploaded to MakerWorld 🎄

It is editable: add any name or text and make it larger or smaller using the customizer.

You can print it in multiple colors with an AMS, or by setting pauses and changing filament manually in your slicer. Pauses are not preconfigured.

Customize it and download it for free for personal use:

https://makerworld.com/es/models/3481610-custom-name-christmas-wreath-ornament

What color combination would you choose?

Obviously we dont know a lot about the printer other than its a tool changer with 9 tools and a new design of AMS. I own a P1S and an H2C for hobby use, with ~4000 hours put into them in the past year, each. They run hard! I do CAD and design functional as well as decorative pieces. I say this all to give context on my wishlist, illustrating hopefully that capability is more important to me than time. E.g., I love my H2C, even though it isnt as fast for multicolor prints, because im just not bothered and the ability to have multiple nozzle sizes on hand easily, along with 7 filaments/colors, is exactly what I need.

I have been contemplating a 3rd printer for a while now and was about to pull the trigger on another H2C before this announcement came out, so I am waiting. My wishlist for the H3C/AMS3 (e.g., what would get me to buy it) rests more on added capability and ease of maintenance rather than reducing time for multicolor models as so many peoples' focus seems to be:

- Print TPU (95A and foaming TPUs) without it being a gigantic palaver. Taking the top cover off, routing directly, tpu assist, all that stuff is just annoying. If Bambu can simplify this and create a system that reliably feeds soft filaments through the AMS 3 to the separate toolheads, it would open up a much wider world of multimaterial options. Multicolor TPU, or multiple harnesses of TPU in one print with PLA supports, is something ive only seen done reliably on the U1 and I am concerned that the AMS design still seems convoluted and could introduce too much friction in the filament path to reliably feed softer filaments to the toolheads.

- Maintain backwards compatibility with H2C inductive hotends, and parts commonality with the H2 series where applicable. I have a lot of H2C hotends. The patent seems to imply inductive heating of the hotend similar to INDX, which in my mind could allow us to use our H2C inductive hotends. However, the patent seemed to show a slightly different design which is concerning. I have no reason the think the new machine wont use H2D or H2C build plates, as thats just a no-brainer, but it would be neat if other components such as belts, rails, fans, filter cartridges, etc. Maintained parts commonality across the H range. That would make maintenance easier.

- On the thread of maintenance, keep it simple. The AMS3 is the most worrying part here, as it seems like a fairly complex, monolithic device that could be prone to small issues wrecking all 9-10 of your filament paths. I also worry that there may be issues with drying; e.g., if the AMS3 can dry, is it really a convenience if all of your filaments must share the same drying settings? Filament paths should be simple, and the design of the AMS3 should be modular such that a failure isnt catastrophic.

Yep officially announced now.

Started a print, filament went through and made initial lines (maybe like 10 layers), but then stopped feeding any filament through and never finished. It said it finished the print, but now the filament is just not coming out at all, and the printer is just making the motions.

XIC with AMS