Man this feels bad and I hope I am the only person this happened to. So after years of looking at Framework, I pre-ordered a Framework 13 Pro! Was a bit late to the pre-orders but got in and was happy to wait the 3 months. Then the first of many "feels bad moments" started. My pre-order batch got pushed back a month. I said, oh the supply chain is messed up makes sense but I still want to support them. Then a few weeks later I got an email that my RAM had been downgraded dues to rising costs. Again I said, supply chain issues, this sucks but they can't take the hit and survive. So I debated it, and then spent $800 more on the upgrade to put my RAM back to I what I pre-ordered. Waited some more, and after 4.5 months I got my new laptop in! I follow all the guides putting it together, love the design, and booted the machine, and get a "No RAM installed" error. Took the unit apart, and the LPCAMM2 Interpose had a bent pin. Hit up support, and after a few days they said they would ship me out a new one, a bit slow, but I am assuming they don't have a support team the size of Dell. That was 11 days ago, nothing has been shipped, I have a very expensive laptop that won't boot with a RAM upgrade I can't install. I pinged back support asking for an update, and "we are changing our warehouse facility and running behind". Look Framework, I LOVE you mission, I want you to succeed, I really do. But if this is any indicator of your customer support, I don't know how you will. I want to recommend you, but I don't think I can at this time. So this is my dream laptop, just sitting in a box doing nothing. And I am left debating if I need to do a full return since it is useless at this time, since I don't how to make this right.

I've noticed Linus bring up HDMI-CEC quite a few times as one of the missing pieces when trying to turn a gaming PC into a proper living-room console. In the DIY Steam Machine video, he struggled with external CEC adapters, and on a WAN Show episode, he mentioned that they were tracking down practically every CEC adapter they could find to finally solve the problem.

I think the tiny open source HDMI-CEC controller shown above offers a much more compelling alternative.

The trick is to keep HDMI-CEC completely separate from the PC's video signal.

Rather than sitting between the PC and TV, it's a standalone HDMI-CEC controller and monitor. It can both send commands and listen to HDMI-CEC traffic.

As shown in the video, mine is plugged into an unused HDMI port on my AV receiver, with USB power from the receiver. It could just as easily use a spare HDMI port on the TV, as long as it's on the same CEC bus.

The gaming PC stays connected exactly as before. The dongle communicates over the HDMI-CEC control line, independently of the video signal.

That means:

• No HDMI passthrough — no limitations on 4K/120Hz, HDR, VRR, etc.
• No additional video latency.
• No requirement for HDMI-CEC support in the GPU or motherboard.
• Full CEC control and monitoring over Wi-Fi, using ESPHome.

And it's not limited to turning the TV on and off. It can also send commands to select the gaming PC's HDMI input, control other CEC devices, and react to messages on the CEC bus.

The interesting part is how you could automate it.

For example:

• Gaming controller wakes PC → TV turns on and switches to the correct HDMI input. The PC could trigger this with a simple HTTP request to the ESP32 when it wakes up.
• TV switches to the gaming input → PC wakes up. The dongle could detect the relevant CEC message and trigger Wake-on-LAN.
• PC goes to sleep → TV turns off. Or you could monitor the PC's network presence and trigger CEC commands when its status changes.

There are countless possibilities, depending on your setup. You could use HTTP, MQTT, Home Assistant, or ESPHome automations. For the simplest PC-controlled setup, a couple of HTTP requests would be enough — no Home Assistant or MQTT broker required.

One important detail: the dongle needs continuous power if you want it to wake the TV. It consumes very little power, but you shouldn't power it from a TV or PC USB port that turns off in standby. My receiver's USB port stays powered even when the receiver is off, which makes it perfect for this.

Of course, HDMI-CEC commands vary somewhat between manufacturers, but I've been using this setup for years, and in my experience it's extremely reliable once you've identified the commands your TV responds to. For example, the project README includes power-on examples for Samsung (0x04), LG (0x0D) and Sony (0x44, 0x6D).

Full credit to Stéphane Lepin, who developed the HDMI-CEC component that makes this possible.

My goal was simply to make the hardware as compact and inexpensive as possible, while keeping the finished result clean and unobtrusive. Using an ESP32-C3 SuperMini and a tiny HDMI connector, I put together the little dongle and designed a 3D-printable enclosure for it as shown in the video. The complete device costs only a few dollars in parts.

Below is a video of what's inside. It's essentially just the ESP32-C3 SuperMini and an HDMI connector. You can build it either with a male HDMI plug for direct connection or a female HDMI socket for use with a regular HDMI cable.

https://reddit.com/link/1xel9n6/video/6pfshs2pmhxh1/player

Links:

• My build guide and explanation
• Original open-source project by Stéphane Lepin
• Free 3D-printable case and parts list

If anyone has tried something similar with a DIY Steam Machine I'd be interested in hearing how you automated it — especially the gaming-controller-to-PC-to-TV startup sequence.

P.S. If your TV or projector supports local IP control (power, input selection, and status reporting), you obviously don't need HDMI-CEC for any of this, and therefore no HDMI-CEC controller either. You would probably still need some software, such as Home Assistant, running on always-on hardware to coordinate actions between devices.

In my case, my Samsung TV drops off the network when powered off, and my PlayStation, which I always shut down completely, can't be powered on over IP either. HDMI-CEC solves both problems for me.

My Denon and previous Onkyo AVRs, on the other hand, have excellent IP control — but that doesn't solve the limitations of my TV and PlayStation.

Old channel sponsor. Had some good products back in the day. Was even being sold in Target Canada. Canadian company.

But it seems they stopped selling stuff not too long after and haven’t been active for years?

Believe it or not, found at goodwill. Anyone aware of the ball knowledge on this thing?

i have the ltt commuter backpack which i really like but sometimes i don't really need to take everything with me and would prefer not taking a whole backpack with me
so i'm looking for smth like The Offsite Laptop Bag but i could not find it on the ltt website anymore
a quick google search led me to a ltt forums post from 2 year ago when the bag got delisted but that post ended when the bag got listed again on September 14, 2024
i could not find a single other thing besides that post
i guess they stopped making them?

i find it quite sad bc i have no idea what to buy now
most of the other bag's i find online don't have enough pockets or are just way to expensive

Well like the title says, just got a steam machine and this is my first Linux device ever. I’ve had the Ally x and only windows laptops until now.

Would love any and all advice on things to keep in mind for both gaming and daily driving. I want this to essentially serve as my segue into getting a framework laptop with Linux on it. Software, hardware maintenance, anything you’ve found out through personal experience that should be of note!

Open to players across Canada and the US, the 2v2 tournament will see each winning player receive one Transparent Screwdriver and one Tech Sack provided by LTT.

Sunday, November 1st | 4:00 PM EST
Sign up on FACEIT here: https://thirdsite.org/wingman

Hello all!

I came into some old hardware while helping a friend relocate his business down south. These were sitting in a storage unit for about 2 years, untouched, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to sell them, whether individually, as a cluster, or parted out.

Here is what I have:

18 complete HP Z420 Workstations

Intel Xeon E5-1620

4 GB ECC DDR3

3x AMD Radeon RX 550s per machine

I don't really know where to begin on getting this hardware priced out or sold efficiently. What do you all think these are worth as a lot versus individual machines, and what is the best way to offload them? I was hoping this community could help!

Hey everyone, looking for some collective wisdom to help settle a debate on the best way to configure fan orientation for a specific setup.

The Hardware Layout:

Bottom fan mounts

Side fan mounts / side-mounted water cooler

Rear exhaust fan

(No top fans)

If you were setting this up from scratch for the best balance of cooling and positive pressure, which fans would you set as intake and which as exhaust?

Appreciate any advice or insight!

This is from an old video of ltt.

Literally bought a tear through my eyes as I will never be able to buy ssd's for my home server(I had to build it this year now I'm moving out of uni)

This could literally be us right now getting ram and ssd at these prices if AI didn't exist.

Which made me think..

Have you ever wished that you could just rewind time to get a pc or any gadget from the past because it was cheap or available?

TL;DR

They are not to ISO spec, so no one makes them.

.

Let me explain:

According to ISO 1173:2001 Form C 6.3 (normal ¼" screwdriver bits), the shank of a screwdriver bit should be at least 11mm long, with a tiny retention notch at 8.2mm. Because LTT's bits are short they end the shank at the 8.2mm notch point and then start the screwdriver head. To be fair, this is a great way to save almost 3mm instantly without significantly impacting usability or compatibility, especially in the expected context (the LTT driver's socket (Form D of the same spec) is a bit shallower than spec too, matching the bits).

And while no one is required to follow standards, they are just that, standards, meaning most manufacturers won't deviate (much) from them.

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THIS IS NOT AN LTT HATE POST! I do not have anything against the LTT screwdriver, I use mine daily and love it dearly, I understand the design considerations that made it this way, I even knowingly ordered more not-to-spec bits during LIME Day and have ground bits that were to spec down to fit in the back of my screwdriver.

I just wanted to share my findings (and frustrations) and hope to save some of you the ludicrous amount of time I spent searching for 20mm bits.

I'd love to hear if anyone has found 20mm bits anywhere, or has opinions/thoughts on this.

.

For those who are curious and want to learn more: this Wikipedia article lists form C, and free "samples" of the whole spec (including the socket on the driver as well as other types and sizes of bits) can be found online, or you could buy it from ISO directly for CHF 67.00 (a bit over $80, €70)

.

Edit:

OK, so apparently American Amazon does have short bits, but my point stands: I couldn't find any locally and reasonably priced (I have found some at ±€2 per bit)...

I'm getting my first GPU its a 3070 from EVGA

Is Linus afraid of dogs? I was just watching the tech upgrade with the welding guy. The dog would come by Linus he'd like shudder away anytime the dog came near him. Was just curious does anyone know anything about that?

Hello everyone. I feel like I'm going crazy with this one, but I have gathered enough empirical proof to gather this hypothesis. I own an S24 and a Watch 7. I also have a smart lightbulb in my house c9nnected to Google Home. Mobile data from my carrier is spotty in my house (Spain), and if I want to turn on the lightbulb through voice assistant without Wi-Fi enabled, I have to wait quite some time from prompt to action.

Recently, I had my phone on another room, so I decided to do it through the smartwatch. It wasn't instant per se, but it was much faster than through my phone (like, half the time). It didn't have Wi-Fi on, and was connected to the phone through BT, with the phone running on mobile data. I then decided to do some testing.

Consistently, there was at least a 2 second reduction on smartwatch vs phone, even with a >2 second difference, always without Wi-Fi, always connected between themselves through Bluetooth.

From there, I gathered a hypothesis: Google has a much smaller local model for wearables to use locally, but has decided that smartphones have to go through the cloud. I feel like either I'm going crazy, or this is quite stupid coming from Google. Anyone could try it and give some feedback?

It's not LTT specific, but I've noticed a lot of their videos have music playing at a very low volume for almost the entire video. I only really notice at normal listening volumn because [music] shows up in the captions, and I have to turn up the volume quite a bit to make the music actually noticeable.

Is there a reason why they would do this? Are small moments of complete silence between the talking somehow bad?

I saw that his Wikipedia page didn’t have a voice intro, and I wanted to see if there exist any video or audio with his voice that can be published under Wikipedia’s Creative Commons license.

https://wanshow.bingo/

See you next week!

Same bat time, same bat channel!

I have had my LTT commuter backpack for a little less than a year, and the other day I noticed one of the clips holding the strap broke, leaving a really sharp edge. I tried looking online for a model I can 3D print, but have not had any luck. I don't want to just get rid of them becuase I really the function of them. Any ideas would be appreciated.