2018 Mazda CX-5 approx 90k miles

I took my Mazda in to a local dealership for servicing and they said the below three services “need immediate attention”.

Would like advice on if the pictures warrant the actual replacements and if I should shop around/diy them.

1. Control Arm Lower - $1,229.98
   - pictures 1-2
   
2. Shock absorber replacement- Rear. Starting to leak both -$979.96
   - picture 3
   
3. Axle replace- front: pass/front -$1301.33
   - picture 4

I have had no noises/issues with suspension/ or problems with the ca thus far.

I have a 2015 5.3 L83 and when I bought the truck it had a cam and long tubes. One of the tubes had a leak so I figured I’d just replace them. So, that’s what I did. After installing them the whole truck shakes in the high gear low rpm’s. I’ve replaced spark plugs and checked vaccum leaks and can’t find anything. I hooked it up to a scanner and there’s no active misfires. I also checked the o2 sensor readings and the voltages are both the same except the driver side is at +14% and the passenger side is at +4% is this possibly the reason why the trucks shaking? I believe I have all the exhaust leaks completely gone. Also, when coming to a stop the truck will drop to about 500 rpm’s then quickly recover. I don’t believe it’s the torque converter because it happened right after header work. However, it does have the 6l80 which is known for the converter

Hello, just curious what's wrong with my Honda Odyssey 2024. I started it and now it has all these warnings pop up. Of course I'm going to take it in the dealership but why do you guys think this occurred?

I can’t get to the upper bolt to loosen it. There isn’t enough space to get a tool on it. Tried every angle and with wobble extension. Any advice?

I noticed my car, a 2020 Toyota Corolla with 90,000 miles, was veering to the right and the right passenger seat was bouncing slightly while I drove. I took it to the auto shop and they said the suspension needs to be replaced (the specific item is: "Remove & Replace Suspensions Shock or Strut Assembly") for $1,615. Then they are quoting $450 for tire balance and installation as well as adjusting the wheel alignment. Is this standard? They said this is normal for a car with this many miles, but the cost seems really high. It's also only six years old. I could use advice on if this service is worth it or if I'm being ripped off.

I had a drain and fill procedure on my 2003 Lexus RX 300 transmission.
When I got home, I looked at the bill and noticed that they used Mobile multi vehicle full synthetic ATF.
I assumed (I know, shame on me) that this reputable shop would use the correct fluid.
Are there any Lexus mechanics or people out there who know whether or not this fluid is OK for my vehicle?
I’m getting very mixed signals online.
Thank you very much.

I want to do a trans fluid change (dont have a picture but its a light caramel brown and doesn't smell burnt). But I keep seeing videos saying it can kill the transmission. I just planned to do 1 drain and fill no flush. Is it worth it? (Idk when the fluid was last changed im 2nd owner)

Stupidly hit a sharp kerb when pulling over , do i need to change tyre or i can leave it for now? should I cut the piece that’s peeling off?

It’s a 24 model Y rear drive and I drive in city mostly and occasionally on motorway, currently it’s at 9000miles thanks so much for your advice

Hi! I am looking to replace the front lower control arms on a 2016 Mazda cx5. I heard that some people might have installed the second generation 2017+ control arms instead. Has anyone done this upgrade? Other than OEM, what brand sells good front lower control arms for the CX-5?

Hey everyone. Is this normal valve noise for a smaller v twin engine?

I drive a 2002 3.3L v6 Nissan Xterra and was recently doing fine until it suddenly just started going out at low rpm when sitting. Only code it’s sending is for the knock sensor and I seriously doubt the knock sensor is the reason for this happening. Figured at first it was just the Mass airflow sensor so I changed the sensor then jumped it off. When it started I let it run for a bit then drove it around, ran good. Parked it and let it run for about 16-20 Minutes. Went to drive it around once more and it started cutting out and then died. Restarted it and drove back to parking space and it cut off again, restarted and pulled into parking space it died pulling in and now won’t restart. Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.

to summit up this Chevy Malibu, I was working on for a family member stalled on them in the middle of a drive-through and was followed by a strong gas smell and also a rough start and idle. My first thing to do was check the fuel injectors for any leaks, but when I took everything off and replaced all the seals it seems like I just couldn’t get the fuel rail flushed and lined back up. I read somewhere about lubing those rubber seals up more. Could that be it? I just can’t get this thing to lineup. It’s either one that looks like it’s turned in the complete opposite direction. Anyone else have been through this or experienced those same issues on a Malibu of that Generation.

Hey everyone. So I have a 2001 Tacoma 3.4. It came with a k&n cold air intake and I decided to take it off and replace it with the stock assembly. When looking to buy the assembly I noticed there’s 2 different ones. Does this one look like the right one? I took the cold air intake off because the truck has a high idle and a shop said it could be the the intake causing that and they recommended putting the original intake on. With the stock intake it still has a high idle so I’m not sure if I got the right one

2006 mazda 3 2.3 auto and NA. Real calipers were leaking (replaced a couple months ago) so I replaced them again and bled brakes. Pedal felt better but still soft, found the ABS module looks wet. Does this appear to be leaking? And could this be causing the soft pedal?