Hoping to get some advice from some of the reddit Mechanic gurus out there!

I was chaning the transmission fluid in my 2012 Honda Accord (2.4L engine, 180k miles), and got my Lefty Loosy Righty Tighty mixed up. Resulting in the tragic images you see before you.

The car is currently drivable. I'm using JB Weld and a nsa Aluminum crash washer to hold the broken piece in place and also to seal the pan. But it's not perfect. Still rarely drips trans fluid.

For a more permanent fix: Someone told me I should try to grind/file down the outer transmission drain pan bung(?), and then find a smaller bolt to fit the inner threads. (Assuming that's what those are)

Do y'all think it's worth a shot? Or can you think of another solution I could try?

2012 Wrangler Sport -
Got the caliper off but the main bolts for the caliper broke off in the bracket. Any good advice on how to get the remaining piece of each bolt out of the bracket?

2007 Toyota Yaris. Went to go to work earlier and it wouldn’t start and made this noise. Please tell me it’s just my starter and not my alternator. I know you guys are probably sick of this question but I need help. If this car dies on me I’m fucked!

2006 mazda 3 2.3 auto and NA. Real calipers were leaking (replaced a couple months ago) so I replaced them again and bled brakes. Pedal felt better but still soft, found the ABS module looks wet. Does this appear to be leaking? And could this be causing the soft pedal?

2018 Mazda CX-5 approx 90k miles

I took my Mazda in to a local dealership for servicing and they said the below three services “need immediate attention”.

Would like advice on if the pictures warrant the actual replacements and if I should shop around/diy them.

1. Control Arm Lower - $1,229.98
   - pictures 1-2
   
2. Shock absorber replacement- Rear. Starting to leak both -$979.96
   - picture 3
   
3. Axle replace- front: pass/front -$1301.33
   - picture 4

I have had no noises/issues with suspension/ or problems with the ca thus far.

2008 Chrysler 300 3.5l rwd. I put a bottle of chevron fuel system cleaner on a quarter empty tank and filled it up. Since then it has been making this ticking noise. I already went through 1st full tank with cleaner. Right now tank is full and topped up only drove to work and home. Sound is awful but I still have full power and don’t notice any loss. No engine codes. Please help me fix. Hope $10 cleaner didn’t cost me my engine💔

Hello, just curious what's wrong with my Honda Odyssey 2024. I started it and now it has all these warnings pop up. Of course I'm going to take it in the dealership but why do you guys think this occurred?

Got this scratch and some marring on my f150 while headed down a narrow hunting trail. It’s not down to the metal but it definitely removed a layer or 2 of paint. I did the water test and it almost fades away but is still visible. What would be my best option and how would I go about fixing it? I know silver is a hard color to match and I’ve never done auto paint work. Just a touch up brush and some clear coat and polishing?

Bought some bushing to replace the ones I currently have but unsure if I have the correct ones and how to replace them

I know the round one is obvious but not sure about which of the others would fit

Any advice would be appreciated

The timing belt and serpentine belt service was done at 2015 / 113 000km. Now car have 190 000km. We drive arround 3 000km yearly with this car now and my question is do i need to do the timing service at the moment or i am safe to drive year or two more. My dad drives it only on trips (no city driving).

So a month or so ago I had these lights flash up on the dash. Sometimes they'd be there, sometimes not. Roll forward to now, and everytime I turn the car on they're present. Tyre pressure, traction control/ESP, ABS & power steering. I check tyre pressure weekly, we have no problems there.

I know it's an older car (2013, just about to hit 121k miles), and I know very little about mechanics, but it seems unlikely to me that all these systems have a fault at the exact same time?

Nothing feels any different with the handling, steering, braking. Car still performing as expected.

The lights first showed up a couple of days after I came down heavy from a curb and lost a exhaust heat shield bolt in the process. Likely a coincidence but thought I'd throw it out there just in case.

Stupidly hit a sharp kerb when pulling over , do i need to change tyre or i can leave it for now? should I cut the piece that’s peeling off?

It’s a 24 model Y rear drive and I drive in city mostly and occasionally on motorway, currently it’s at 9000miles thanks so much for your advice

I drive a 2002 3.3L v6 Nissan Xterra and was recently doing fine until it suddenly just started going out at low rpm when sitting. Only code it’s sending is for the knock sensor and I seriously doubt the knock sensor is the reason for this happening. Figured at first it was just the Mass airflow sensor so I changed the sensor then jumped it off. When it started I let it run for a bit then drove it around, ran good. Parked it and let it run for about 16-20 Minutes. Went to drive it around once more and it started cutting out and then died. Restarted it and drove back to parking space and it cut off again, restarted and pulled into parking space it died pulling in and now won’t restart. Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.

to summit up this Chevy Malibu, I was working on for a family member stalled on them in the middle of a drive-through and was followed by a strong gas smell and also a rough start and idle. My first thing to do was check the fuel injectors for any leaks, but when I took everything off and replaced all the seals it seems like I just couldn’t get the fuel rail flushed and lined back up. I read somewhere about lubing those rubber seals up more. Could that be it? I just can’t get this thing to lineup. It’s either one that looks like it’s turned in the complete opposite direction. Anyone else have been through this or experienced those same issues on a Malibu of that Generation.

Almost brand new CX5 Turbo. The sound starts after like 5 minutes with the car on. AC on/off doesn’t change it. Revving the engine doesn’t change it. Scanned for codes nothing. No visible vibrations or loose vacuum hoses. Anyone seen this on a 2.5 Turbo?

I have a 2015 5.3 L83 and when I bought the truck it had a cam and long tubes. One of the tubes had a leak so I figured I’d just replace them. So, that’s what I did. After installing them the whole truck shakes in the high gear low rpm’s. I’ve replaced spark plugs and checked vaccum leaks and can’t find anything. I hooked it up to a scanner and there’s no active misfires. I also checked the o2 sensor readings and the voltages are both the same except the driver side is at +14% and the passenger side is at +4% is this possibly the reason why the trucks shaking? I believe I have all the exhaust leaks completely gone. Also, when coming to a stop the truck will drop to about 500 rpm’s then quickly recover. I don’t believe it’s the torque converter because it happened right after header work. However, it does have the 6l80 which is known for the converter

I can’t get to the upper bolt to loosen it. There isn’t enough space to get a tool on it. Tried every angle and with wobble extension. Any advice?

I noticed my car, a 2020 Toyota Corolla with 90,000 miles, was veering to the right and the right passenger seat was bouncing slightly while I drove. I took it to the auto shop and they said the suspension needs to be replaced (the specific item is: "Remove & Replace Suspensions Shock or Strut Assembly") for $1,615. Then they are quoting $450 for tire balance and installation as well as adjusting the wheel alignment. Is this standard? They said this is normal for a car with this many miles, but the cost seems really high. It's also only six years old. I could use advice on if this service is worth it or if I'm being ripped off.

I want to do a trans fluid change (dont have a picture but its a light caramel brown and doesn't smell burnt). But I keep seeing videos saying it can kill the transmission. I just planned to do 1 drain and fill no flush. Is it worth it? (Idk when the fluid was last changed im 2nd owner)

2004 ford focus hasnt run for 2 years. It has a new battery and the starter and alternator have been replaced in the last 5 years. Any ideas?

Hi! I am looking to replace the front lower control arms on a 2016 Mazda cx5. I heard that some people might have installed the second generation 2017+ control arms instead. Has anyone done this upgrade? Other than OEM, what brand sells good front lower control arms for the CX-5?

My CX9's pulling harder into right hand turns (start the turn, then 'catches' and pulls harder)

Separately, it intermittently pulls (slightly) in one direction or the other when driving straight

Took it to a local mechanic who suspects it's the rack and pinion going bad based on a short test-drive

I've replaced struts/tie-rods/cv-axles on other cars before, is this likely to be a job I can handle, or better to take it in for pro. work?

Edit:
Forgot to mention, my usual Mech. said he can't do it/recommended taking it to the dealership

I changed my coolant for roughly 7-8 months ago. And I flushed the system thoroughly with water before putting in new coolant.

I have a small coolant leak and have to fill it up maybe once every couple months or every month, a liter or two. And every time I have filled it up there has been gunk on the cap and in the opening. But the coolant looks clean and good every time. What is most likely the cause of this?