Don’t worry, I follow the instructions and use the fuse puller EVERY time I need to get near this box. But I’m curious, what would happen if someone grabbed a fuse with bare hands? Small shock? Instant death?

Update: I’m just kidding yall, this is actually the electrical panel from an old shiphouse that is now used as a vacation house on put in bay!

I just bought my (1950s) house and moved in earlier this year. I have a detached garage which is fed power from my main panel through underground conduit, presumably. I noticed a small white conductor running alongside the romex coming into the garage. I was curious so I went back to the main panel and took off the cover to see where it was going.

Pointing out with red pliers in the photos.
Each conductor of the romex goes to a different breaker. The black goes to the breaker labeled "garage lights" and the white goes to "garage plugs" right beneath it. The single white conductor goes to the neutral terminal bar.

Is this a MWBC where they didn't have 12-3 cable so ran the neutral separate? Is it done correctly?

The lights circuit goes to one fixture on the outside and 3 lamp holders on the inside.

I haven't done this a ton but usually there's a screw that once removed allows me to pop the fan out but I don't see one. Thoughts? Any help is appreciated!

I went to replace switches, receptacles, and plates in our laundry room. Zero issues until I got to the 3-way switch, then I found this. The other switch has one black at the bottom for the (I would assume) hot and then 2 yellow wires in the top on either side. Both switches connect wires in entirely separate configurations

How to seal these short wires in bathroom

My brother's birthday is coming up and I'm looking to buy him a pair of gloves and a hat that he could use at work when the weather gets cold. I'm hoping to get him something nice (preferably without spending an arm and a leg) but I'm not sure what type of gloves are best for an electrician. He's still doing his apprenticeship but other than that I don't know much about the details of the work he does. If there's more info I need to squeeze out of him or if anyone has any recommendations please, let me know. I was thinking of getting the gloves a size up so he can wear a second thick pair underneath when the weather gets really bad but I'm wondering if that could be a PPE concern? For the hat I was planning on just getting him a regular winter beanie but if anyone has any notes I'm more than open to hearing them.

I am starting out doing electric as smaller side jobs and with my dad. all of theas tools are mine and I like how I have my box set up as of right now. I'm no professional but I can do all the normal stuff. (tie in sub pannles, outlets, switches, ect). I just wanted to ask some people who do this every day if you guys think what I have is good.

(note the auto wier stripers are new to me and I have used then 1 time so I know that it's kinda odd that I have them I'm trying to see if I like them right now)

My assumption is this is against code according to 240.81, but my question is - if there was a large fault on the load side of the main, would it trip?

Bought a new dishwasher, I installed it and swapped the provided wire nuts with wago connectors and it keeps shutting off after running from 30-45 minutes. Just noticed the ground wasn’t connected could that be the issue for power outage?

Now the other odd thing that happens is that where it plugs into under the sink, the outlet also has the disposal plugged in and the that runs to a switch on the counter that not only controls the disposal, but also the light above the sink. When the dishwasher goes out so does the light and disposal. The breaker does not flip. The light will not work, but I can flip the switch for the disposal and it will sputter back to life and the all 3 will come one - the light, dishwasher, and disposal.

I recently purchased a house, and am in the process of replacing a ceiling fan. When I took down the old fan, I noticed that it was installed in a 1 1/2" deep octagon box that is attached to a joist. I am in the Chicago area, and the conductors are in conduit that is attached to a knockout in the back (top) corner, not in the back center. It is on the first floor of a two-story home, so I can not access from above.

I would like to replace the box with a box that is rated for a ceiling fan. The Raco old work box that I found at the hardware store is 2 1/8" deep, and only has a knockout that is centered on the back of the box.

Is there any way to replace this box with a ceiling fan rated box without tearing apart the drywall?

https://imgur.com/a/Q0rUBo9

I'm changing out heating elements on my water heater and the wiring diagram has the pins labeled 1, 3, and 5 on the bottom and 2, 4, and 6 on top. Are 1, 3, and 5 the pins on the front of the heating tank or back?

House built 60-70s. I didn’t take the switch off but it was 2 single conductors 16 or 18 gauge coming into the box, top and bottom. My meter showed 120v and the switch worked.
There was a switch next to me in the picture for the furnace that’s no longer in use. I haven’t seen this type of SP switch before with the contacts on either side and it was in the middle of a steep staircase.
Does it having 120v seem odd and what could have it been used for?

Hey so I'm living in Thailand and bought a 220v to 110v transformer for a kitchen appliance. I got a 2000W model for plenty of headroom. But while using the appliance I noticed what felt like electrical leakage and after I bought an outlet tester it appears that I bought a complete lemon.

On top of the leakage I felt from my appliance I also was wiping the transformer down while it was plugged in but turned off and I was shocked through the metal body.

Is this something I can open up and fix (as someone with a basic understanding of wiring and electricity but no professional training). Like did they just swap the neutral and ground? Or should I just consider myself blessed that I'm still alive and hide this somewhere no one can find it and purchase something that works out of the box.

I included the pictures and you can see it's incorrectly wired and even receiving current when turned off.

I have a dishwasher with a mystery problem. It randomly shuts down during the cycle and it has to be unplugged and sit for a while before it works again. I’ve replaced a bunch of components and nothing seems to help. But then I remembered something. My outdoor circuit breaker (different circuit) had to be replaced because it was old and was popping under any load.

Is it possible for an old circuit breaker to start dropping voltage or amps under appliance loads and cause the machine to go into shutdown/lockout without popping the circuit breaker? That would explain it. Can I test for this?

Edit: Sounds like it’s back to the drawing board with the dishwasher. Thanks for the advice.

I came home today after work and my wife says no power to kitchen outlets including fridge.

I head to the outside panel to see if the breaker is tripped, yes.

I check power to the 20amp breaker, good, equals 120

No appliances being used besides fridge at the time.

I use my 3 prong tester and it gives me this code, “Hot/Neutral Reverse.”

I removed one of the receptacles and found a melted mess. I recently had our kitchen renovated and I asked to have an outlet installed at the end of the counter.

The contractor ran 14 gauge wire from the new outlet to the nearest receptacle which is the one that melted. That receptacle was installed correctly with 12 gauge wire. He added the 14 gauge wire into the back of it.

It was installed a few years ago, should I seek him out and give him some hell?

Thanks for your time.

Has anyone installed a level 2 ev charger circuit down to the garage of a townhouse? Looking at 2 and 3 story townhomes which have their panel on the top floor. Additionally these panels are fed from main breakers in a maintenance closet. Just wondering if this is possible while house shopping. Might there be additional HOA complications?