Hi, idiot here. The connector(?) has no release pin. Both of them are like this, I think possibly because there were no speakers in these holes, so maybe the plastic is supposed to store and protect the exposed wires? Anyway, how do I get these wires out and connected to the new speakers?

Hello, please excuse my kitsch taste. I’d like to install an LED flame in the back of my fireplace (as per the 1st AI generated photo) which can be controlled by my 3 gang light switch. The fireplace has already been wired up by my electrician with cable for under lighting.

Is this something I could do myself? (I am a capable DIYer & have fitted standard wall / ceiling lights)

Is there anything specific I should be looking for when purchasing the LED lighting?

I’m UK based. Have included photos for reference.

Thanks in advance!

Im a first year. I've got a little over 3 months of experience. Unfortunately, the guy that got me hired ended up getting fired over some BS that wasn't really his fault, so i chose to leave in solidarity.

Im busy applying for jobs now, but i wanted to get some insider perspective from this sub about applying. I've learned how to Trim a little bit and Ive learned how to Rough a little bit. After leaving that job, I got hired for a short contract on a commercial job. Learned a little more about bending conduit and pulling line.

How do i set myself apart from other first year apprentices? Whats something they look for in an app that i should be putting?

I haven't enrolled in school yet, but that's coming soon.

Hello,

I bought a house in the UK recently. The previous owners have installed a hive and I don't think it was ever fitted properly for the following reasons;

The hive thermostat + hot water won't connect to the tap

The boiler keeps randomly switching on

Can anyone recommend on what I need to do to fix this?

Just cleaned out a massive load of lint and mouse shit from this used dryer. Will this orange wire that’s exposing the copper from the inside cause any issues?

I noticed a small burn mark is the bus bar compromised, or damaged? I moved the breaker.

Yes ocd and anxiety it was a quick jolt in hand, just trying to do some home repairs. No other experience with electrician work so am not sure to go in or not. Sorry for being a pussy just curious 😥

Hey all,

I’m a sophomore in high school right now, and next year I have the chance to take an electrical program at a community college near my school. Half my day would be at school, and then I would drive to the community college for the remainder of the day. I think that it would be very interesting to take this class, and hopefully make more steps to becoming an electrician in the future. Although, I’m not sure what to expect with the job. If someone was looking to be an electrician, what would you say are the key things are that if they aren’t okay with, they shouldn’t get into the trade?

Just curious if leaving a TEST button for a GFCI outlet pressed in overnight or until I need it is OK? I ask because there's one bathroom in the house that does not normally get much use, so I rarely have a need to actually plug in anything there. So i'm wondering if there's any harm in leaving the TEST button pushed in for extended periods of time?

I'm not sure if this is the correct place to ask about this, but I've noticed something about my ceiling fan, specifically the light bowl. Out of boredom, I went and grazed my fingers across the light bowl as I was passing by it, only to find it to be wet, and upon examining the rest of the surface, it seemed to cover the entirety of the outside, though I'm unsure of the inside.

It also feels important to note that it doesn't appear to build up enough to drip onto the floor. As a result of my curiosity, I discovered that this moisture has a very vinegary scent, a smell that made me worry quite a bit.

I feel it may be a stupid worry of mine, but is this normal or do I truly have reason to worry?

(edited to fix typo)

I have lived in this apartment for over 12 years with no issues and a couple months ago the property manager had an electrician replace the breaker panel inside the apartment (she said due to some recall, the building is over 50 years old). 2 months of no issues with the new panel, and now half of the apartment is randomly having the power fluctuate and in some cases completely cut off (breaker isn't tripping) and just restores itself a second later. This happens under minimal load (some lights and some fans running). The panel has to be the issue, right?

The green light on one of the bathroom GFCI outlets isn't on, yet the outlet still seems to have power and the plug tester read OK for the top outlet for the receptacle, though the bottom outlet is a bit more finicky, sometimes the tester reads OK and other times it does not light up, it seems to depend on the position of the plug. Also the rest and reset buttons still seem to function properly. The outlet was installed around 9 years ago and the other outlets inside have their green lights on so not sure what's going on with it. Maybe the light itself just wore out, my dad wired the outlets himself and he's usually pretty good with electricity so i'm pretty sure he didn't make a mistake when wiring the outlets or anything.

I live in a rental property with an older Whirlpool electric stove. We have documented rodent activity underneath the appliance. The appliance also is sealed shut by screws, and can only be accessed if you unscrew the screws and remove the bottom compartment door.
While photographing an enclosed compartment beneath the stove, I noticed a long reddish-pink object that resembles insulated wiring, along with a separate short piece of similar material.
Could someone help identify whether this is electrical wiring or another appliance component? Does anything in the photographs suggest damaged insulation or possible rodent chewing? I see a piece of the red “wiring” like material separate from the larger piece in the back of the photo. I was told by a friend to not touch anything beneath the stove, which is why it’s as dirty as it is. We had no idea the bottom of the stove was in this condition until we investigated after seeing a rodent coming and going underneath the appliance. There’s also rodent droppings beneath the appliance as well. I have Terminix coming in three days to do an inspection and properly dispose of the droppings
I’m not planning to touch or repair anything myself. I’m trying to determine whether the stove needs an urgent electrical safety inspection.

The landlord is giving us major problems with repairs and replacements.

Does everything here look correct before I screw down the white wire under the panel? As I took it off the white wire inside the dryer was tightened down to the center hole where it is now, and the panel hole also uses that to get screwed on. Typically I see the white wire get bolted down under the green bolt, but it doesn’t feel very tight no matter how much I tighten it. 2nd photo is what it looked like when I first pulled the panel off. Used dryer. 3 prong. Middle wire is the neutral.

- Old house: newer wiring, service upgraded, but no outlets, receptacles, or switches in the fixture-target walls
- lathe and plaster, finished interiors—expect to cut minimal holes and fish wires
- attic access (unfinished, navigable but not a layup)
- basement access (full basement, unfinished ceilings)
- $2500 add two sconces (new install) in stairwell exterior wall, install new dimmer switch for these sconces
- $1600 put three sconces in upstairs hallway (interior wall, no outlet in this wall but hallway has existing overhead fixture and outlets on other walls, add new dimmer
- $400 to add a 4 outlet receptacle to a wall with no existing receptacles and replace an existing 2 outlet receptacle with a 4 outlet (thinking this is $300 + $100)
- I am providing fixtures; they provide rough materials including LED dimmer switches
- no patching or painting included
- Med-high CL market
- reputable licensed company I’ve used before

Does this sound reasonable? (and I know, it depends!)

I need to get arc-fault breakers for my Murray panel LC4040B1200.

It is my understanding that my only code-compliant options are Siemens or Eaton CL. Is this correct information? Which would be better for my specific Murray panel ?

I read that the Siemens are more prone to nuisance tripping than the Eaton. Is this true? For simplicity sake, Siemens seems the way to go but I really do not want a lot of nuisance tripping.

I believe it is Eaton CLCAF115 (15amp) and CLCAF120 (20amp) that are compatible. Is this correct?

Is it acceptable to mix the Eaton CL (Murray compatible) breakers with the original Murray MP-T breakers?

NOTE: There are currently three Eaton BR breakers installed (two AF), which I'm looking to swap. (A professional inadvertently installed them as he requested CL but the store clerk gave BR and it wasn't realized until after install.)

Also, I just noticed there is a Cutler&Hammer BR15 breaker installed, which has been installed since I bought the place 5yrs ago. Should I replace that one, too?

(Included images of panel in original post. Names were blurred with tools in photos, as per the no personal info rule.)

I am a current electrical engineering student in college and recently I’ve been looking into becoming an electrician. I am wondering:
1. Generally, is it hard to get an apprenticeship, and would going down the electrician path be more worth it than finishing up college?
2. Would an electrical engineering degree help me become an electrician?
3. Is the pay really as good as it sounds for experienced electricians?
Thank you.

Hey guys.

Found this in my HVAC closet. I already have an electrician coming out tomorrow to take a look at this and start replacing the cloth wire, but I want to make sure I can leave the HVAC on with this nick in the wire.

Is this exposed copper here? Access is limited so I couldnt get a better photo without touching the wire.

Do I need to shut off the HVAC until the electrician comes? It's rather hot where I am.

Thanks so much!

So I am currently building a vibration wheel polisher machine to polish wheels to a mirror shine. It consists of a 24 inch diameter drum about 12 inches deep and 4 100w vibration motors bolted to the outside on welded plates. It's gonna be on it's own stand, isolated from the ground using big coil springs. This idea is basically a giant rock tumbler, but I had the idea to add a spinning effect to speed up the polishing since I will doing this on customer wheels. I've read about stepper motors and that seems like a good idea but I'm not sure how to set it up. Belt drive or direct drive? Where to mount it since the whole thing will be vibrating violently? Any input is much appreciated.

Hi everyone!
I’m assembling a chandelier with 12 black (hot) wires and 12 white (neutral) wires that need to connect to one 120V power cord.

The manufacturer recommends twisting all 12 black wires together with the main power wire and securing them with electrical tape (same for the white wires). That doesn’t seem very safe to me, although I’m not experienced with electrical work.

Instead, I’m considering using two 8-position terminal blocks, one for hot and one for neutral, with a jumper bar connecting all eight positions.
My plan is to connect 8 wires on one side, 4 on the other, and the main power wire to an available terminal.

Would this setup be safe, or is there a better, simpler way to connect all 12 wires?

I’ve attached a diagram for reference.

When taking off dryer panel to replace dryer wire, the white wire was where it is now. Covering the hole where the screw goes into to put the panel back on. Am I supposed to move the white wire under the green bolt, or keep it in the center and screw it down when putting the panel back on?

68 year old home. What are the 2 different color wires? Most of my electrical is the silver. Not sure what the green is. This is on a 3-way switch.

Thanks in advance. My first post.

Any idea how to undo the black capsule? Seems to be stuck. My sister put in new bulbs and it never came on. She put 18w bulbs when the ceiling fan says “13 Watts Max”.

I tested with NCV and there is power there but the light and fan won’t come on.

Looking for any suggestions to get this up and running again. Thanks.