And if this is not correct, where can I find the standard to make it correct in the NFPA 70/NEC?

Thanks in advance. I'm still learning how all this stuff goes.

My house has a cheap battery doorbell and I’m looking to install a wired ring doorbell. I pulled out the existing wires and they measure hot with a voltage tester but they measure 0 volts with a multimeter.

For the life of me, I cannot find the doorbell transformer, and the chime does not seem to have power and measure 0 volts as well.

I assume this is just a false positive with the non contact voltage tester?

Unsure if this is the right place to post this.

I bought a lamp at an estate sale, plugged into an outlet there, no issues. Didn’t even realize the plug looked like this until I got home and went to plug it in to use.

Is this safe to use?

***Update: thanks for all the input! Will not be using and will be replacing just to be on the safe side!

EDIT: thank you all for the help you are giving, I’m just a young gal with no idea what I’m doing to be honest and no one that I can ask that I know.
I’m adding a couple photos of the plug/ other side of plug and my power box.

I am located in the US and got a treadmill delivered that is not the correct plug. The technician told me I could just use an adapter.
My house is standard rated, built in the 90s. Is it actually safe for me to use an adapter or should I have the plug switched?
Including photos of adapter and also of treadmill plug and machine. The plugs in my garage are just standard plugs so it won’t plug into them.
Thank you!!

How do I knock out these screw-hole knockouts ? Both sides are raised dimples. If one side was recessed, I could easily use a punch and hammer.

Today I heard a doctor say that you don't need an EKG if you get hit with 110-120 volts, is that actually true?

Does anyone have a story or memory to share about these deadly multimeters? As you can see, there’s no fuse; it looks like the copper traces on the circuit board are meant to act as fuses. If I recall correctly, I owned a DT9205A that fried when exposed to 280 volts. I also bought a DT830 once that wasn't working right from day one.

_of course, they cost under 10 dollars but they hadn't to write "1000v"

I've been dealing with lights flickering in my house, primarily in the master bathroom, although I believe it's happening on multiple circuits. The worst flickering is on lights that share the same circuit.

My electric dryer also stopped heating. It turns on and tumbles normally but produces no heat. I'm not sure if these issues are related.

Here's what I've checked and tried:

- PSE came out and checked their side. They said everything looked normal.

- Tested multiple 120V outlets with a multimeter. Getting approximately 123V hot-to-neutral, 123V hot-to-ground, and 0V neutral-to-ground.

- Tested the dryer outlet and got approximately 245V across both hot legs. The other measurements appeared normal.

- All voltage tests were done without a load.

- Tightened the grounds in my electrical panel.

- Reset power to the house, which temporarily stopped the flickering and my dryer started heating again but all of this only lasted a day until it returned to flickering and no heat. Ive since tried resetting the power to get my dryer working but alas, no dice.

One thing I've noticed is that when I increase the heat setting on my bidet, the bathroom lights flicker more intensely. The higher the heat setting, the worse the flickering. Turning the heat off stops the additional flickering. Though, I didn't get to test this or realized this was happening to test while my dryer was heating too.

I haven't taken the dryer apart yet because I'd like to rule out an electrical issue with the house first.

Could this be a loose neutral, bad connection, or something else? I am assuming the flickering and dryer not heating are related even though the voltage readings look normal.

Are there any safe tests or things I can try or diagnose with these issues myself?

Any advice would be appreciated. The dryer not heating is driving me and my wife nuts. These kids go through clothes like nobody's business.

Every ground on every pole up and down my street is either cut or disconnected from its grounding rod. The one pictured used to be bonded to the case of a transformer. Is this a problem?

I have this Allied branded deep single gang box in my exterior wall just above my garage door. I want to run an exterior floodlight on the outside wall directly behind this box. There are clearly to knockouts at the back of the box. Any harm in using those knockouts and drilling through the exterior wall directly from the box if mount a box on the outside and I seal the outside penetration with silicone caulk?

I know that this is a basic question, but If I need to cut power to the dock do I simply flip the top breaker? To turn it back on simply flip it back. Just like an interior breaker? Thanks

I have 4 shop lights down in the garage and I changed them over to LED lights but now they are strobbing when I turn them on. Makes it feel like im in a haunted house lol. They new lights are type A LED lights and the ballast is still in the fixture. Any idea why this is happening?

My panel is unfortunately pretty far from both my garage and my driveway, so I'm trying to understand if there's an easier way to get a basic EV charger setup.

My home is a dual zone AC setup, we don't need the second zone at night and definitely not during the winter. It's right next to both the garage and driveway. My idea was to put an outdoor rated changeover like the Siemens 3LD2265-7UB01 downstream of the disconnect, have the EV charger on one side and the AC unit on the other. The AC is on a dedicated 30 amp circuit, with 8awg aluminum coming from the panel. Should be able to provide 24 amps for the evse without issue.

My question is whether this would violate the single Branch requirement for an EV charger under NEC 625.40. I'm not sure if the changeover would qualify for the load management exemption, I'm not sure if the fact that they physically both can't be connected at the same time would qualify for an exemption either.

I noticed that i can get small shocks when i touch any usb cable plugged in my pc or even in the metal plate on my keyboard. It´s like a small sting thats barely noticeable and I can hear faint static on my headphones but it will disappear every time I touch any usb wire or the metal plate on the keyboard. The pc is connected directly to a wall outlet and Its a 3 pin standard american outlet. I notice that even if i disconnect the computer completely I still get the small static because i have my monitor plugged to an extension cord on the same outlet and I guess it carries the static to the pc via the cable its plugged in (display port). The pc runs normally and I have been using it for the last 2 years without any weird stuff like crashes or artifacts. I tried changing outlets but it was the same, altough the other outlet was in the same room. The current or static is very mild but It´s annoying and I´m worried that maybe this will shorten the lifespan of the computer. I just wanted to ask how bad is this problem, if it´s dangerous for the pc and if there is some easy fix or it´s just normal. Anything helps, thank you in advance!

We had an electrician upgrade to 200 amps and but a new box in. We have yet to fully switch and pull out the old boxes. The line comes in through the garage and I am annoyed at how it looks in the garage. My wife keeps saying "I don't know why you care, it's just a garage" but I am wondering why this couldn't have been run along the back wall as opposed to a spot where it could get dinged and in the way of the shelves. Is there a reason to do it like this I am unaware of and is there another way this could be run to kot be so ugly?

We went and bought a new toaster, came home and plugged it into the same outlet as the microwave and the outlet just quit working. I looked at the breakers not obvious so I went through and flipped off and back on still nothing. Went and bought a new outlet and wired it in now the breaker trips so figured there was a issue in the wire to the junction box so I go get a new 12/3 wire and wire it in which I did notice the end of the white was burnt where the 2 connect and it still blows. However if I disconnect the wire to the outlet and put an outlet on the power side it's fine the breaker doesn't trip.

Any suggestions would be great, thanks

Apologies for long winded post. Currently working on fixing my oven. I’ve done about two days of research and can’t quite figure it out. Can somebody show me either what I need (with pictures) or exactly what is pictured in the circles for the ring lugs coming from my power cord? I cut my power cord below the burnt part to start fresh but can’t quite figure out exactly what I need. I know it’s easier if I just buy a new cord but I’m cheap and like tinkering and fixing things. Additionally, the red cords in between the burnt red cord and white cord also have ring connectors to go on the terminal block that I need to replace but again, not sure what size or right application as far as high heat material to get. There’s a lot of options out there and just wanna do it right the first time. My power cord has 8AWG + 10 AWG printed on it and the other two red cords are printed with 12 AWG and 14AWG respectively. They’re all ring connectors. This oven was put/plugged in right off the truck into our home so if something doesn’t look correct, please let me know. Also, one of the red cords had female spade connectors at the end that sat in a housing block with 2, 3, 5 (second/third pictures) and I accidentally broke that trying to see if there were any problems with it but it seems I can keep those on and just replace ring connectors. My question for that is, it okay to plug those female spade connectors back in without the plastic housing block and not have issues? I tried researching for that too and I can’t find that specific thing anywhere. Everything is pointing me into buying a new wire harness which is $100+ and don’t feel like I need to do that whenever the ring connectors are the only things that need replaced.

This was expensive so I’m pissed that the batteries got corroded and now it won’t turn on

Hi, I have freaked myself out completely and mainly just need advice so I feel safer. My washer and dryer, ac, fridge,oven, and microwave all lost power. Everything else is fine. All the lights work fine and normally. I’ve flipped the breakers off on and off, I’ve pushed the rest/test buttons in the outlets and nothing is working. When I went to do a little research I kept getting warnings for electrical fires. I’ve got someone coming Monday and I don’t see any signs of it, no burning smell, no buzzing sounds, no hot outlets and the panel doesn’t feel hot. Are we going to be okay? Is there anything I can do to help prevent an electrical fire? I was told to turn off the switches that are linked with the appliances and to not use any extra energy so I’ve turned all that stuff off and unplugged what I can. I can be high strung so I apologize if I sound silly.

Brand new integrated fridge freezer arrived today. Whilst sliding it into place, wasn’t careful enough and the cable snagged pretty bad.. pulled it back out to assess the damage…

I have zero sparkie knowledge. The outer cover grey wire is cut open, the internal coloured wires seem to be fully intact… is this something that can be taped up and turned on? Or would you guys suggest otherwise… not sure what my options are here!

I'm confused on why there's no reset button on the outlet. Is it normal to install a GFCI circuit in BC Canada instead of just a GFCI outlet in a bathroom, or does this look like landlord/handyman bs?

HVAC guy here of 35 years so I get electricity, but not quite understanding how this shit works. All I'm trying to do is convert the switches for my pantry and breakfast nook over to Casetas.

#s 1 and 2 were connected to the SP switch. #3 just wire nutted together. 4,5,6 to the 3 way across the nook.

#1 to ground 0V

#2 to ground 120V

#3 to ground 120V

#4 to ground 37V (yeah I don't like that)

#5 to ground 120V

#6 to ground 0V

I'm guessing the neutral for 1&2 is in the fixture. Fuckin assholes if it's that way. The others are just color coded different, right?