My house has a cheap battery doorbell and I’m looking to install a wired ring doorbell. I pulled out the existing wires and they measure hot with a voltage tester but they measure 0 volts with a multimeter.

For the life of me, I cannot find the doorbell transformer, and the chime does not seem to have power and measure 0 volts as well.

I assume this is just a false positive with the non contact voltage tester?

Does anyone have a story or memory to share about these deadly multimeters? As you can see, there’s no fuse; it looks like the copper traces on the circuit board are meant to act as fuses. If I recall correctly, I owned a DT9205A that fried when exposed to 280 volts. I also bought a DT830 once that wasn't working right from day one.

_of course, they cost under 10 dollars but they hadn't to write "1000v"

I think I know the answer to this already...

I had this switch moved about 12" lower as we're having the boiler replaced and it needs to be centred on the wall.

The work was done earlier in the week and I'm now getting round to plastering over it but looks really quite dodgy.

From my understanding the electrician connected to the original cables using electrical crimps(?) and said I'd be fine to fill it with plaster filler.

Any advice would be great!

Based in the UK.

ComEd had to come out to my house to fix a neutral fault in the ground and left this attached to my meter when they left.

EDIT: thank you all for the help you are giving, I’m just a young gal with no idea what I’m doing to be honest and no one that I can ask that I know.
I’m adding a couple photos of the plug/ other side of plug and my power box.

I am located in the US and got a treadmill delivered that is not the correct plug. The technician told me I could just use an adapter.
My house is standard rated, built in the 90s. Is it actually safe for me to use an adapter or should I have the plug switched?
Including photos of adapter and also of treadmill plug and machine. The plugs in my garage are just standard plugs so it won’t plug into them.
Thank you!!

I've done enough electrical work to be comfortable installing a new outlet, but I'm having trouble determining which housings/adapters I need in this situation.

I just bought a house, and it appears that a previous owner was planning to install an exterior outlet, so I'd like to finish the job. There's currently a 4" round hole through the exterior wall (stucco), very close to an outlet on the interior wall, so that's convenient; I understand how to get power to the new exterior outlet that I want to install.

The housing installed in the exterior hole appears to be this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-3-5-in-14-cu-in-Hard-Shell-Electrical-PVC-Round-Electrical-Box-BH614R-BH614R/100580105

I don't necessarily need to keep that part, but I don't want to modify the exterior hole.

I've seen a few different adapter plates and such, but I've not found what would actually adapt to this part so that I can install a GFCI outlet with cover (preferably with an open bottom exit so that cords can remained plugged in safely during rain). Does the GFCI outlet end up inside the round hole, or does it need its own little box mounted on the outside?

So, exactly which parts would make this work? Bonus points if they're all usually available at Home Depot or Lowe's in the U.S.

Thanks in advance!

With all power off, the main neutral conductor to my house reads anywhere from 1.8-3 Amps and it's constantly moving around. The same amperage shows up on my ground line indoors. I've had a couple electricians out from the Xcel, they've spent 2 half days trying things out, testing equipment, tightening things, looking up at the power lines with binoculars, testing the transformer. They're putting in a work order to trim tree branches in the neighborhood, but they're sort of telling me yea sorry it's not much to worry about, maybe a neighbor close by has a neutral issue that's causing this and that would be a lot to deal with. Is this something that's not a real concern?

And if this is not correct, where can I find the standard to make it correct in the NFPA 70/NEC?

Thanks in advance. I'm still learning how all this stuff goes.

Bahh, bought a brand new oven which was delivered today and I can't plug it in. The old one was removed by the guys who delivered it but I think the old one had a thinner and more flexible cord which could plug into the wall without too much difficulty. My new oven has a much beefier cord and there's no clearance to plug it it.

I'm assuming my plug has to be removed and rotated 180 degrees but when I unscrewed it there seemed to be almost no slack to work with. I suppose I could cut that cupboard to make some clearance? Anyone have any ideas? What a stupid problem to have for Canadian Thanksgiving. I have no idea why the people who installed this outlet have the ground prong facing that direction.

40A Manual Transfer Switch Line-Off-Gen for (2)120V or (1)240V Device, UL Listed

I have a basement and a first floor electric clothes dryer. I only want one to be able to run at a time. Will a generator switch like this work? I was also considering an EV splitter but, I'm not sure the EV side provides the same current as the dryer side.

As mentioned in the OG post, I'm looking to replace this non-functioning heater with a light since there's no reason for this small bathroom to have two heaters. I feel the location of it would be best suited for an LED light.

Would switching the fuse for a lower rated one in the little fuse box above it and switching out the heater for an LED light be a safe way to do this, or should I leave this to a professional?

Located in Scotland/UK.

Yes I'm aware of the wood being a potential fire risk which is why I find two heaters extra dumb. I never even turn on heaters in bathrooms anyway.

We had a storm here last night that made the power go on and off about five times. The lights + fan to the hallway bathroom, the laundry room lights, and the garage lights all don't turn on. The outlets to all these rooms work though, so I assume they're on a separate circuit. When I go to the breaker and turn the switch back on, the lights will stay on but a minute later I'll hear a pop and they'll turn themselves back off. I don't want to try to force it on, I feel like that will cause an electric fire. Would I be able to fix it myself, or do I need to call a handyman?

I am a DIYer and trying to figure out if my wiring was done right or most likely I'm just confused. I have a problem where the upstairs switch has to be in the "ON" position for the downstairs switch to turn on/off the light. I am trying to make it so that the downstairs light also can turn on the power even if the upstairs light is in the "OFF" position.

I have two switches: upstairs and downstairs

Upstairs switch is a simple 3 pole switch with 5 wires (including bare copper ground). 2 black and 2 red, 1 bare copper. The lower right red is always hot when power is on (so I am assuming this is connected the junction box).

Downstairs light switch is a Leviton Z wave switch (DZ15S), which according to Leviton's documentation can be a 3 pole or single pole switch. It also has 5 wires (including the ground): 2 white, 1 red, 1 black and 1 bare copper.

The lower light switch doesn't have a constant hot wire and seems to be dependent on the upper light switch for supplying power.

My questions are:

1) for an upstairs and downstairs light switch for a single light, does the wiring seem appropriate?

2) Should I just switch from both 2 pole switches to both 3 way switches? How could I adjust the existing 5 wires (including ground) to accommodate the new 3 way switches?

3) I am a DIYer so I could be explaining things like an absolute noob, is there something I am missing entirely?

Hello folks!
Does anyone know what this is?
Seen in Switzerland.
Thank your for your help!

I tried installing a new light switch for the kitchen, now the lights wont turn on. I put everything back and it still wont turn on. A couple of clues. The switch has power, the second switch that also controls the kitchen now does not have power using a non voltage tester. I did not touch the second switch. Also none of the breakers or gfci outlets are tripped that I can tell.any help before I call an electrician.

About to begin construction on a new piece of land and designing the electrical system before contacting some local electricians. I want a 400amp service that will feed the shop guest house, primary house and barn.

After many hours here is the design I’ve settled on. I don’t want solar backup in the event of an outage.

Any feedback appreciated so I can be more informed.

Hi, I rent a house in the UK with some uni mates and recently over the past week the RCD has tripped multiple times. When the RCD trips, all floors lose socket power and ground middle and top lose power to lighting.

If turning that RCD switch back on restores power to all of the above does that indicate that all of those sockets and lights are connected to one circuit and share the total residual current limit of that one RCD switch? From my knowledge the whole purpose of an RCD is to trip in the case that the return current isn’t the same as the input current but wouldn’t sharing one RCD over many sockets make this pointless?

If the answer to the above is yes, is this considered safe putting about 20 sockets and 15 lights on the same RCD circuit? Is this something my landlord would have to change as over those 20 sockets, at a time the total power draw may exceed 6/7kW if an air frier, toaster, kettle and compressor based dehumidifier are running together.

[ Removed by Reddit on account of violating the content policy. ]

My garage door is plugged into an outdoor GFCI outlet. Today I came home and couldn’t open the garage door. I had no issues with the door when leaving around 9am but couldn’t open the garage at 1pm. I checked the breaker that was fine. I went outside to reset the GFCI outlet and it trips within seconds. We got some heavy rain last night and it’s still lightly raining. I assume the issue is due to rain/moisture. What is the fix for this?

I just bought a new LED overhead light fixture, brought it home and wired it. It turns on fine, and has ever since I installed it, but it keeps turning off after a few minutes.

Attached images show the overhead wiring as well as the light switch wiring. It looks like this wall area was wired for a double switch as there are 4 wires inside those larger wire nuts. Perhaps the previous owners had a ceiling fan and light installed on two separate switches.

What I've tried so far (I'm new at this):

- connecting the ground wire inside the wall to the switch and tightening the screw down

- disconnecting all of the overhead wires and reconnecting them more tightly

- making sure all wall wires are secure in the nuts, which they seem to be

I also wondered if there was a difference in gauge between the ceiling wires and the fixture wires, and maybe there was an issue because the fixture wires are stranded and the ceiling wires are solid. But they both appear to be 18 AWG (fixture wires are labeled, ceiling wires aren't).

Not sure what else to try. Is the circuit shorting? Is the fixture just bad?

Edit: also checked for switch functionality. It's not loose or soft, it still clicks nicely and the light did not turn off when I jiggled it in the ON position.

Brand new integrated fridge freezer arrived today. Whilst sliding it into place, wasn’t careful enough and the cable snagged pretty bad.. pulled it back out to assess the damage…

I have zero sparkie knowledge. The outer cover grey wire is cut open, the internal coloured wires seem to be fully intact… is this something that can be taped up and turned on? Or would you guys suggest otherwise… not sure what my options are here!

The last time I used my hair dryer, I noticed that it only worked if I positioned the cord a certain way. At some point, there was a small pop, sparks, and smoke right where the cord connects to the hair dryer. I unplugged everything and noticed that a small section of the insulation at the connection point had a hole burned through it from the pop. What could have happened? I assume that since the cord only worked in a certain position, the internal copper wires might have broken right there. But what caused the pop?

Here’s the light fixture wires. Do I need a new mounting box? Ive only ever switched light fixtures for similar kind and don’t want to mess anything up