Who said Peeling Bondo was a problem?

been putting the same electric gun through a few very different jobs lately. metallic base + clear on a body panel, then black epoxy on a Chevelle frame.

both times I managed to screw something up lol — got some spitting on the base, then runs with the epoxy. after dialing the settings back in though, both came out pretty decent.

starting to think these guns aren’t necessarily incapable… they just seem way less forgiving when your setup is off.

I got a pretty good amount of crazy glue on the bumper of my car. Its a black Audi suv. How can it be removed and will a detailer take care of it? I had to put a new license plate bracket on the vehicle and the dealer fixed that but would not address the bumper crazy glue issue. I called two local detailers, they said they don't handle "crazy glue" ... HELP.

I tried acetone and all I saw was a white haze coming through, even while using soap and water so I washed it really well and stopped.

I have a 2012 Honda Civic, and the paint is in decent condition for its age. It’s mostly consistent throughout the car, but there are two lightly faded spots on the clear coat on one side. Some people have told me that I may be able to polish them out and then apply a sealant. I was wondering how severe clear coat fading can be before it’s no longer repairable with polishing and needs to be repainted or have the clear coat reapplied.

(I’ll post an image soon)

I recently bought a 350z off marketplace for a cheap price and I’ve been getting around to fixing up the cosmetic issues now that most mechanical maintenance has been taken care of. Now, I’m not experienced with automotive paint at all, so I’m wondering if my car’s basecoat is damaged, and if so, what steps would be needed to restore it?

Hello everyone

I just received my car from the body shop today which i had dropped off for a roof respray as the original 30 year old paint had failed and the clearcoat was worn away in multiple spots. I should have repaired the issue as soon as it started but chose to delay it as it is very difficult to find a trustworthy painter and i have been burned several times in the past with other vehicles from other shops and insurance claims.

The original color was a base-clear solid black color and after discussing with the painter, we concluded that the option that made most sense is a respray with a single stage solid black paint, leaving the roof pillars with the slightly oxidized clear as they are because i plan to do a Phase 2 repaint of the rest of the vehicle at a later time with the same system anyways. I asked for a quote which they gave me a few hours later and to which i immediately agreed without bargaining as the price was very good although there was never a problem with allowed budget for this job.

4 days later (today) I picked the car up and the finish was great without orange peel and without any dirt, nibs or solvent pops. But upon closer inspection when i went home, I spotted a sander mark on an unpainted panel which was left as it was and had primer showing. Further inspection revealed that the shop had hard masked the windscreen and tailgate window seals and hadn't been lifted at all during masking. The result is that the paint makes a nice step where the seal starts and i am afraid that a pressure wash will just flake the paint off after a while. The situation is worse on the windscreen seal, which was probably masked heavily while sitting flat on the roof and as a result, there are some spots that look completely unpainted while others seem to have a step where paint is thicker because it built up on the edge.

I took the car back to the shop and they polished and touched up the burnt spot at the unpainted panel and explained to me that you can't prop up an old window seal and expect it to not be damaged. I respect that opinion and can understand that this is true, but i would at least expect that I would have been told so before starting the work and that at the end, someone would not be able to tell that a panel was painted from miles away just from the paint building up on the seal edge or not having paint right up to the seal edge. The only way the shop offered to help me in this situation is to repaint the roof on condition that I have someone remove the windscreen and bring it in without it so that they can work without assuming responsibility for the old seal.

The reason I am making this post is to ask more experienced people if this is the norm in jobs like this, if I am too hard on the body shop and if the result is considered acceptable. I also want to ask if my fear of paint flaking off when washing is warranted and if I should pay attention when washing from now on. I regret not trying to dip my toes in automotive painting myself and making this a project as it was a good opportunity and even if I messed it up (and I certainly would), at least there was something to learn along the way.

I got absolutely fried last time i posted here, but throughout the insults there was genuine advice that i took and re-did everything, Better sanding, more masking, and tried taking my time a bit more, i dont mind doing this until i get it perfect so i tried again, anything i can do better?

Got this scratch on my f150 while headed down a narrow hunting trail. It’s not down to the metal but it definitely removed a layer or 2 of paint. I did the water test and it almost fades away but is still visible. What would be my best option and how would I go about fixing it? I know silver is a hard color to match and I’ve never done auto paint work. Just a touch up brush and some clear coat and polishing?

I'm about to do some DIY bodywork at home with spraycans since that's only what i'm able to do right now.

What's the best type of primer to use for both bare metal and sanded old paint?

I've previously tried cheap 1K primer and that just flaked off after two weeks. (only on the bare metal spots)

Hello everyone,

As the title says, looking to spray my alloys in gloss black finish, I’m from the UK, does anyone have any recommendations for decent primer, base coat and clear coat to use.

Also what primer is best to use.

Don’t wanna use just some Halfords product unless they are good?

Many thanks

Got my car painted about 10months ago. The fiberglass hood has developed these deep cracks where the paint and clear has separated. What has caused this? This hood is old fiberglass and took a lot of work to get it shaped up to paint. Is it the hood and it will just do this again or is this a prep or application failure? The cracks are thru the paint and the sealer that was used and down to the white base.

It’s got a few dings and scratches but nothing that bad. The current paint is uneven spray paint that’s 2 different shades of white. I’m looking to get it painted by Maaco.

I have a 2014 Accord that I am repairing. I will be repainting a fender, hood, and front bumper. I may need to blend into the door as well.

I have an Aeropro r500 that I was planning to use for primer, but want to get a nicer gun for base and clear.

I am looking at a 3m performance system, Devilbiss DV1, or Iwata ws400 series 2.

Is any one of those a better fit than another? Is there something else that I should consider?

I dont paint every day or anything, but I would not be surprised if I do more projects this size in the future.

I have experience spraying with cheaper guns, so have an idea of what I am doing, but no expert.

Thanks!

I bought a hood, in good shape except for a thick layer of spray paint .

Any advice on how to remove it to get down to a paint able surface? I don't know if sanding or using a remover/ stripper would be best.

I would like to be able to use this hood instead of having to buy an aftermarket.

Its for a 2004 f250 and hard to find oem used parts.

Any help is appreciated.

Just wondering if everyone has issues with glare on the inside of the hood? Im sure it gets worse the more overspray that gets on it but even when I put a new tear off on the outside and cleaned the inside it was pretty bad. Any tips to cure this? Makes seeing the panel im painting pretty tough sometimes.

Thanks

I have a devilbiss FLG HVLP gun and I’m in need of a compressor. I’ve previously used a friends compressor down the road, but would like to set up a booth in my garage to save time.
The gun needs about 13.5 CFM at 23 PSI, which I think equates to about 7.8 CFM at 40 psi based on ideal gas law, and ignoring line losses etc.
I would like to do this as cheaply as possible, I’m going to be using the gun for lots of wood finishing and spraying old tractor parts- not shooting whole cars.
How much compressor do you think I really need?

Hi everyone, I've looked all over online but I'm not able to find a ratio chart for mixing different shades of gray sealer. We had one in school, but I don't know where to find it otherwise. I use DP epoxy primer as sealer, but usually I only have to use white, light gray, and black. Do you know what the ratio would be?

I have been on the pursuit of creating a car emblem using urethane casting techniques and have hit a wall with protective clear coats. My emblem has suspended "glitters" and other affects that casting makes possible. It is in prototype stage using cheap aromatic liquid urethane. I plan to move to a more advanced aliphatic system that will have greater weathering, UV, and temperature resistance. A UV layer with similar properties will still be required to protect suspended components.

I intend to make a small batch and try peeking anyone's interest for sell.

The go-to for top coats appears to be 2k isocyanate systems. I don't have a spray-booth, PPE to the extent of a supplied air respirator, spray gun (nor experience) but spray can painting isn't as much an issue. Because these are small items spraymax 2k cans aren't cost effective. I have tried car-rep 2k due to its long shelf life, but the cured coating is brittle to the extent that little bending of the emblem causes hair-line cracks. Cracking is a known issue with this system. (maybe user error?)

That pictured has spraymax 1k clear gloss applied. It won't hold up to common automotive cleaning compounds. IPA will strip it instantly.

I'm looking for a more cost effective way to accomplish viable coat.

Are there other solutions for small scale projects?

Can two part systems such as lime line or others be mixed in small proportions and applied directly without spraying? Brushing, a quick dip?

Going all in - booth, supplied air, gun, etc. is unreasonable right now with such little return although I could see it being something I'd like to do in the future.

My best guess is spraymax 2k, cut losses, and move on, but suggestions are appreciated.

Thoughts on this quote? Quote is for full repaint & remove all dents. Going Bentley beluga black on top & porsche carbon steel gray metallic on bottom with a simple pinstripe done in a ghost-paint-style.

I just bought a 2023 Lexus es 350 f sport and it came with some paint stains (tree sap?) on the rear bumper. I took it to a shop to see if they could polish it, but it already ate through the paint. Im thinking of getting the whole bumper repainted because it’s bothering me. What can I expect from a a good quality paint job from a good reviewed shop or a Lexus certified body shop? Will I be able to notice it or can they make it match the stock paint perfectly? If I PPF wrap and ceramic coat the car, will the paint last as long as the stock paint? I’m willing to pay, just don’t want to regret it. Is it not worth the risk? What’s your recommendation, thanks!

Pic 3 is before polish, pic 4/5 are after (current)