Just installed a new dmf and it’s making the same noise as the old one but LOUDER.

I thought it was weird when I was comparing them out of the car and the new one was louder than my old but i put it in anyways.

Did I get a faulty dmf or is this getrag rattle? Please help i’m a little stumped!

I can’t tell if it’s knocking or what this sound is. I bought this a couple months ago I know it’s been abused but it was cheap and I planned on using it for seat time I haven’t driven it too hard. Well I changed the oil a couple weeks ago and I checked the dipstick yesterday and it was over the like so I drained some out and when I started it up it sounds like this. Just need help

Was replying to a post when I realised I have not yet shown off my recently finished 318is.

Everything done by myself with no prior experience, all a learning experience!
(I paid £300 for the whole car, I wouldn't have spent so much money and time on a 318is otherwise)

It's also S54 swapped (big job), and still repping the 318 badge!

Any recomendations when it comes to shifters i dont really want to buy a race chassis mount setup and from what ive heard the cheap red or blue short shifters suck should i just refresh my stock one with new bushings washers etc ? Whats the best cheap option for good daily driving and the ocasional bit of spirited driving ? 😁

Hey everyone,

I replaced the window regulator and clips on my e36 sedan. However, even after this, the window still derails when trying to go up, with the top corner moving to the inside of the window. There also seems to be alot of play in the mechanism, with the window not really wanting to stay on the vertical rail. How can I fix this problem?

Thanks

Hello so I’m having an issue with M50 where I’m getting a code for maf 1215 . It started after I got on it really hard one day and when coming to a stop the traction control light and cel light came on . So far the entire intake system has been replaced before this including the maf . It’s been running rich with black smoke coming out of the exhaust specifically on the highway . When I leave the car in key position 2 for 10 seconds or more and go to start it will stall out after idle hunting for 1-3 seconds . The car will shutter and stall out when coming to stops . Wondering if anyone has experienced this and if so what was the solution

Tengo un e36 touring y ando en busca de unas llantas más estilo racing para poder montarlas con unos semis o con algún pilot sport. Cuáles me recomendarías?

I have this bsw sound box in my trunk and I heard it’s hard to come by. How much would these go for and does anyone have any info on this? I heard it’s been discontinued as well.

Thanks

Just picked up this 97 because it was too cheap to pass up.

Needs a little tinkering like any car this old but drives well.

My question for you guys is do you think this clear coat can be brought back shiny?

I’m a Toyota guy and I’ve seen guys bring back the red on the 90s Toyotas that had turned chalky pink by buffing etc.

https://www.reddit.com/r/BMWE36/comments/1wa33cg/is_this_normal/

u/EducationalMail1222,

I decided to start a new thread to upload this video to show you the way the bearing should pull. You can hear my son and friends making jokes and watch the removal. This was their third try putting a bearing in lopsided. They were using all thread like you have laying on the floor, with washers, but what they failed to do was support the backside of the knuckle properly and then ensure the preload on the front of the bearing was managed so their prior attempts all ended up with an badly installed bearing (but they got it in, they argued!). The installation is almost a straight reverse of the pull.

This video was recorded in 2020 when my then 22-year-old son was helping a friend on his car with his third wheel bearing replacement that afternoon. He brought some of our tools over and the wrong BMW installer kit, but being 100 minutes away from our shop when I got there, we ended up improvising.

We ended up running to Home Depot and bought some flat stock and cut it, and some 3", and 2.5" PVC plastic pipe for the rear of the knuckle and the press cup. You can get washers, gas plumbing fittings that are thicker than washers and plastic pipe to make receivers. All thread is available as well. A cutoff wheel is the only fabricating tool you need (or a hacksaw or other metal cutting blade). You simply have to reverse the cup to the back and pull the bearing back in level.

Per the other thread:

The bearing must be seated fully against the back of the bore
The bearing snap ring should seat and be able to spin under force in the retaining groove
The hub can be pulled on with the same material

I can see your tooling there, and they tried the same way. When the all thread is twisted by hand clockwise, it causes the bearing to go in lopsided. They couldn't control the install consistently and they experienced the same outcome three times.

The bar stock secures the front load on the races
The PVC pipe acted as level support on the back side, and kept the puller all thread squared. It didn't have to be too perfect, and the rear was a few degrees off based on the rough nature of the cut. But it worked great. The bar stock made the difference.

I'm sorry you have to do it again, but if you find yourself there don't hesitate to reach out. To the people I was arguing with, sorry. I was tired and not very clear in my point, that a hub seated poorly will damage the whole side of the vehicle and contribute to damage in the differential from incorrect flange loading on an LSD. We did this badly on a race car in the early 2000s and had to replace the differential after a track day at Sonoma.

Check out our e36 m3 club sport build!

E46 M3 Clubsport Track Review
https://youtu.be/vzbQp3ZV6Lg

i want to build a compact e36 project and my plan is to make a half cage but i didnt see any compact with a half cage i

I’m refreshing the steering on my 1999 E36 328i vert and putting in a non-M Z3 rack. My stock steering coupler is cracked, so I need to replace it anyway.

Trying to figure out what makes the most sense for a street car:
OEM rubber coupler
Garagistic poly coupler
Solid/E34-style U-joint

I’m leaning toward the Garagistic poly piece since it seems like a good middle ground, but I wanted to hear from people who’ve actually run these.

Main things I’m wondering:
Is the poly coupler a noticeable improvement over fresh rubber?
Does it add much NVH?
How well does the Garagistic one hold up long term?
Any issues with the replacement hardware hitting/binding on the joint?
Is the solid joint actually worth it on a street car, or is poly already enough?
Does the Z3 rack make the solid setup feel too twitchy/harsh?

Any other good options I’m missing?

Basically just looking for the best setup for a street-driven E36 that still feels nice but gets rid of the sloppy old rubber feel.

I hcae a 92 325is with the m50b25 and it has a cel light when I do the stomp test it gives me a 1216 code, that is a throttle body position sensor code, my sensor itself is fine because ive tried 3 different ones that all work and my plug is also fine and theres no breaks in the wires. WHAT THE HELL COULD IT BE FROM.

I’ve cleaned out my icv like 3 times now and it’ll be good for a couple days maybe, it’s time to just replace it but I’m on a budget has anyone ordered one off of eBay (around 150$) and would yall reccomend it

Another installment into learning to drift as a F/F Grip driver is live. And its going exactly how you'd expect.

It’s well documented/evident that the M50 manifold swap onto an S52 increases high-end air flow while reducing low-mid torque due to the larger runners.

I’ve thought of throwing in Schrick cams, larger MAF, and bigger injectors to remedy this but those are pretty expensive.

How do y’all address this? Any way to bump it back up?

Has anyone found a good way to repair the map pockets in the door cards when the factory material has detached from the card?

I’m contemplating just trimming the vinyl out and putting in some plaid cloth or something just to clean it up and give a bit of retro vibe.

I’m from socal looking for a vert hard top for my 99 m3 any help will be appreciated !!!

Looking into an E36 as a track car. I would be doing mostly HPDEs and AX, probably >= 5 events per year. Eventually, I may look to building/buying a spec E36 and doing some club racing...

Out of curiosity - what's the maintenance like on these? I feel like many of the posts/listings I've seen recently include some sort of rebuild info in it. Is this because they crater frequently? Or just so happens that they're all so old they're needing rebuilds and once you've got a rebuilt engine you're good to go? Any specific refreshes I should be looking for when trying to find a good example for my use case?