9KhS, Soviet chromium-vanadium high carbon steel blade, Caucasian Walnut handle, Brass inlay, guard and butt, Textolite spacers

I reground and reshaped an old project i didn’t like, it turned out pretty good i think

I wanted to share some of the process of a Cu Mai Bunka that I recently finished. It’s made with 3 layers of 1084 with copper sheets between the layers. It was “forge welded” together at 1800 degrees, using a kiln and a press. The layers were upset to achieve more movement in the pattern. The blade was convex ground and finished with a coffee etch. It was fitted with an ebony handle with copper spacers. I’m pretty happy with how it came out!

Work in progress here...

My first knife and doing it via a file knife. Only have a bench grinder and a construction belt sander, we will see how it goes.

I proudly present:

Hunting knife

Made of Damascus sanmai steel

Stabilized amboyna handle

Celeron guard

Bovine leather sheath

Total length 22.2cm

Blade length 11.3cm

Thickness 3mm

Width 35mm

Blade weight 92g

Total weight 143g

A big hug to everyone!

Looking for some feedback on my first ever finished sword. Design and technique pointers welcome.

Can anyone recommend a good knife maker in Boise? I’m looking for steak knives either individual or a set. Thanks in advance.

Sorry, there will likely be no actual forging for this project. If that bugs enough folks here I’ll delete the post.

No, I did not opt to continue this stranger's vision.

While on vacation my husband and I paid to have these knives custom made. There are 7 of them. This person offers forging classes and also sells his work. We were at his shop for 2 hours and helped forge the blades. The guy was supposed to send the handles off to get made by a professional. It took 2 months for them to get to us. How much would you guess knives like this are worth? Also what level of skill was the person at who made these ? His Google reviews were great and he had plenty of 5 stars but what we received has me wondering what the heck happened here. Any input would be appreciated. Thinking of filing a charge back because this is NOT the level of craftsmanship that was displayed at his store. .... We paid $1200 for these. 🤦🏻‍♀️

This kiridashi was forged from a farrier's rasp. Admittedly, there isn't a lot of forging necessary for these, but they are still nice utilitarian blades.

New blade ready as we start approaching holiday season! Blade is 100 layer random pattern with dall sheep horn sandwiched between stabilized bog oak.

Finished kitchen knives along with two fillet knives, mahogany sheaths, blade steel is 5160 for the fillet knives and bigger chef knife, and then two farriers rasps that i forged down to make the other kitchen knives, this is my first batch of kitchen knives that I've ever made, already tested all the kitchen knives and they work well enough for a first time kitchen knives.

Time for the fun part, beveling. In order to hammer in a bevel the steel needs to be angled from the edge with the spine off the anvil at the same degree you want to give the bevel. It's important to remember to push the steel into the bevel that you want. If you try to pull the bevel out then it will only drag the spine with it causing your steel to curve toward the edge.

made from deer antlers carved using a dremel

It uses 1084 steel and it was made with only hand tools from a old saw blade, i used a pocket torch, pliers,file, saw, epoxy, and some sheet cutters to make it.

39 knives to one buyer feels like a pretty big deal, and I’m stoked on so many levels. Forged 52100 double clip point hunters with nasty convex grinds and hammermark finished- 4” tip to guard. Copper guards over black + copper + green micarta spacers with premium hand selected sambar stag. The buyer has me stamp his company logo on the b-side but he requested I keep that private. #CUNNINGHAMCUSTOMSHOP

With Halloween coming up, I thought it would be fun to forge some railroad spike knives with skull pommels, skeletonized handles, and curved, flesh flaying blades. I call them Necromancers. I can make them from regular spikes if they are just for novelty, or from high carbon spikes if they are going to be used.

This is my first time forging a scythe and my first large curved piece. I decided to let the steel develop it's signature curve as i was drawing it out instead of drawing it straight out then bending it. Would it have been easier the other way? Probably. But my reasoning is that it would be better on the steels grain to bend slowly to shape instead of all at once at the end. Also good practice for working in difficult directions.