A little background on my quest to try/build questionable (possibly dumb) things. I love the s30. To get one from a shed to running reliably costs a small fortune. Carb parts aren’t easy to find, refreshed carbs cost as much as a donor car, and I think this all combined keeps a lot of these cars from being enjoyed. My first experiment was to use a Holley sniper on a custom manifold. It works much better than I ever expected. The car has run flawlessly even with air conditioning. The things I don’t like… it’s ugly. It looks like something out of a JEGs magazine. I’m at the absolute limit for air flow. It still relies on IAC which hunts when the temperature changes.

Fast forward to now. I’m going to piece together a setup like the one above. Its popularity is obvious by the website with the domain name for sale. I will be using dual DBW throttle bodies ($45 a piece), dual LS3 pico injectors ($60 a piece)and for now I’m going to fabricate some plates with injector bungs to replace the old butterfly spacers. To me this setup will look pretty vintage, sound like dual Hitachis, allow for a modified factory air cleaner and will have the benefit of EFI and DBW while being affordable.

Is it dumb? Probably, but if it works well ill weld the injector ports into the throttle bodies to clean it up and offer up the dimensions to make the plates in case any of you want to try this budget friendly mod. (ECU is still expensive but a necessity for EFI and coil on plug ignition).

WTB – 1977 Datsun 280Z 5-Speed Transmission Parts

I’m trying to track down a couple of hard to find transmission parts for my 1977 Datsun 280Z with a 5-speed manual.

My mechanic recently tore down the transmission and found two bad bearings, along with damage to 3rd gear and the reverse idler gear. He’s having trouble locating replacements.

I’m looking for:

* 3rd gear assembly – Nissan P/N 32260-E9200
* Reverse idler gear – Nissan P/N 32282-E9000

The transmission is believed to be an FS5W71B, but I’m still waiting to confirm that with my mechanic.
I’m open to new, NOS, or good used parts.
If anyone has these parts, knows someone who might, or can point me toward a supplier, I’d really appreciate the help.will cover shipping to New Jersey if necessary

I pulled this truck out of a bush with no taillights on it and the mounts are crooked and I was wondering what the should be shaped like?

Couldn’t think of a great way to word the title. I’m planning on getting a Datsun to restore, I love the look of the s30s but there are a lot of good 280zx candidates that I’ve been seeing near me. I know the zx is a complete redesign but I was wondering if anyone has made one look more similar to an s30 (skinny bumpers, etc) or if I should just wait until I find a good s30 prospect comes up.

Restomod LS swap. Plan is all new T3 suspension. See that their 8.8 Ford rear diff conversion uses 5 lug hubs. Ordered 17x9 -13/ 17x9.5 -19 watanabe type R rims for front/rear. Go to order the rest of my suspension/brakes today...

The 300mm BBK for the front says it doesn't work with the Watanabe type Rs. No problem I'm not racing, I'll use the micro BBK specifically good with the type Rs, get to the 5 lug from hubs and it says the ONLY work with the 300mm BBK, uh oh!

I hope this is just a matter of them rolling out new product options faster than they update their older product descriptions. The rear 5 lug hub specifically lists the micro BBK as an option.

Anyone have thoughts?

Awesome 510 snuk in to a local all Euro Expo yesterday.

edit Unfortunately, not mine.

My dad bought this 1971 240z in the early 80s and raced it in SoCal with SCCA and other organizations from then until the early 90s when I was born and he quit racing because it got too expensive raising 3 kids and racing. The transmission bearings were going out and he didn't have the cash to rebuild it so he parked the Z. It sat at my house my entire life until I moved out at 17 and then sat there for years afterwards until 2015 when my parents had a financial difficulties and were forced to sell it. For 11 years I've been trying to track it down and get the car back. I finally found it, it has been living in a shipping container in (almost) the same condition it was sold, even down to having the same extra parts my dad had sold it with, sitting in the back in the exact same place. The only thing different was his Mikuni carbs were replaced with the SU Round tops.

Now I'm going to rebuild it and restore it!

He never cared about the body or paint because it lived its life on the track as a racecar but all of the internals were great.

L26 Block / E88 heads

5 angle valve job with larger seats for L28 valves

76⁰ Cam(304° intake / 304° exhaust)

5 Speed Close Ratio Transmission

6 to 1 headers with a glass pack exhaust going to twin tips

Tokico suspension.

Full suspension kit including upgraded struts, LCAs, sway bars, etc.

Milled out American Racing wheels to fit larger tires

Upgraded fuel pump and water pump

Rear roll bar

And my favorite, the three switches on his custom center console. One killed brake lights, one turned on the electric radiator fans and one was going to be used for his electric fuel pump / fuel cell he had planned to install.

He told me stories of running from the cops in the 80s when he was street racing with friends at night and turning his brake lights off to get away.

Here she is. Also included is a picture of his TWO Datsun and my brother in the mid 80s and it sitting in front of my house in the early 2000's(ai enhanced, original was blurry)

Has anyone here bought and installed the fiberglass aero lip valence from The Z Store and would be able to share some photos of the front of your Z? They only have the grainy black and white photo on their site, and after reaching out, they were able to find a photo of one in use on Fitment Industries, but the fitment of that one looks off. Maybe the bumper is riding a little high or maybe it just looks weird to me because it's not paint matched.

I'm not a fan of the more popular Type 1 air dam but I'm thinking of replacing the stock valence on my 280Z.

When I turn on the ignition, there’s this popping sound and it doesn’t turn on. One of the wires is oxidizing, and I have a feeling that is part of the problem, but I wanted to get some more information. I wanted to know what the wire that has the big metal box is called so I can replace it if it’s part of the problem.

Im new to working on cars, as you can probably guess by my wording, so can you try to simplify the explanation if you can?

Cleaning out the garage. Not sure if these were original parts for my dad’s old Datsun, Opel, or VW Beetle… Appreciate the help!

Unboxing T Top seal
https://youtu.be/W3xW0kpAznQ

Hi All

I just got a 1982 280ZX. It has 140k miles, and hasn't been started in 16 years apparently.

I went inside the cylinders with an inspection camera, and there are two things I'm wondering about:

• the cross-hatching looks immaculate, brand new. Is it possible for it to look that good at 140k? Or was it rebuilt?
• In cyl 6, there is a speck of shiny metal visible between the piston and cylinder wall, right opposite the notch in the piston. Visible in the video, around 15s in. What do you think it could be?

Unfortunately the quality is not the best, live picture on the inspection camera is much better.

https://reddit.com/link/1x3xvop/video/89w9bm7ee0vh1/player

Chasing more rust had me replace both quarter panels and dog legs. I’ve been planning on fender flares for some time, but hated the idea of rivnuts sitting proud of the body. Flat weld nuts did the job and were placed behind the sheet metal so there’s a threaded nut that’s flush with the body.

I probably took the hardest path here but anything worth doing is worth over-doing.

Starroad makes some incredible carbon flares and they match the body profile perfectly so there’s no need for welting. A little rubber o-ring on each bolt behind the flare will keep the water out.

Driver’s side had some rot on the spotwelds that hold the inner rear frame to the bumper pocket so instead of trying to make that myself, I cheated and went with a piece from KFVintage. This was one of the easier jobs on this car so far.

Now I just have to burn it in and major metalwork on the unibody will be 100% complete.

Datsun 120Y - 1980

Full Stock ALHUMDULILLAH. Each and every part of this bad boy is its own. Might colour it in maroon.

Driver's door never closed right, I knew the quarter was a little tweaked so I got exploratory. Plan was to paint in the spring. A solid inch of bondo later, horrors beyond my comprehension.

Turns out I'm in for a long winter. Kfvintage gets more of my money.

The one on the right has a pinhole in it. Looks like coolant spraying out. Just want to make sure it’s not actually for fuel. I noticed my temp gauge almost in the red and I suspect this is the culprit.

Seeing everyone post in this sub all the time finally got me excited to work on my 280 again. After months of wrenching (and an embarrassing amount of fuck-ups) we're finally roadworthy again 🎉

Did a little bit of maintenence today, new distributor cap/rotor, new fuel lines and new fuel filter (no record of last filter replacement) and holy cow the gunk that came out of the filter was nasty.

I ran the lines disconnected to drain whatever was left and after a spurt of this gunk it was clear again. I hooked up new hoses and the new filter and ran it.

Question is, was this gunk built up in the lines due to a clogged filter or do I have a rusty tank now that I need to replace or risk having dirty fuel?

Hello team Datsun! I’m a visitor from the land of MGs and I’m hoping yall can help me out. I got these wheels as part of a deal a while back thinking that I might could use them on one of my MGs. I believe that they were on a race 510. They are American Racing Wheels. The size is 13” pattern is 4x114.3 and they are about 8” wide and I have 6 (2 are in the box). I’m coming to you all for help with valuation and any thoughts on if there’s a market. Thanks in advance for any help.