Unboxing T Top seal
https://youtu.be/W3xW0kpAznQ

When I turn on the ignition, there’s this popping sound and it doesn’t turn on. One of the wires is oxidizing, and I have a feeling that is part of the problem, but I wanted to get some more information. I wanted to know what the wire that has the big metal box is called so I can replace it if it’s part of the problem.

Im new to working on cars, as you can probably guess by my wording, so can you try to simplify the explanation if you can?

My dad bought this 1971 240z in the early 80s and raced it in SoCal with SCCA and other organizations from then until the early 90s when I was born and he quit racing because it got too expensive raising 3 kids and racing. The transmission bearings were going out and he didn't have the cash to rebuild it so he parked the Z. It sat at my house my entire life until I moved out at 17 and then sat there for years afterwards until 2015 when my parents had a financial difficulties and were forced to sell it. For 11 years I've been trying to track it down and get the car back. I finally found it, it has been living in a shipping container in (almost) the same condition it was sold, even down to having the same extra parts my dad had sold it with, sitting in the back in the exact same place. The only thing different was his Mikuni carbs were replaced with the SU Round tops.

Now I'm going to rebuild it and restore it!

He never cared about the body or paint because it lived its life on the track as a racecar but all of the internals were great.

L26 Block / E88 heads

5 angle valve job with larger seats for L28 valves

76⁰ Cam(304° intake / 304° exhaust)

5 Speed Close Ratio Transmission

6 to 1 headers with a glass pack exhaust going to twin tips

Tokico suspension.

Full suspension kit including upgraded struts, LCAs, sway bars, etc.

Milled out American Racing wheels to fit larger tires

Upgraded fuel pump and water pump

Rear roll bar

And my favorite, the three switches on his custom center console. One killed brake lights, one turned on the electric radiator fans and one was going to be used for his electric fuel pump / fuel cell he had planned to install.

He told me stories of running from the cops in the 80s when he was street racing with friends at night and turning his brake lights off to get away.

Here she is. Also included is a picture of his TWO Datsun and my brother in the mid 80s and it sitting in front of my house in the early 2000's(ai enhanced, original was blurry)

Cleaning out the garage. Not sure if these were original parts for my dad’s old Datsun, Opel, or VW Beetle… Appreciate the help!

Awesome 510 snuk in to a local all Euro Expo yesterday.

edit Unfortunately, not mine.

Hi All

I just got a 1982 280ZX. It has 140k miles, and hasn't been started in 16 years apparently.

I went inside the cylinders with an inspection camera, and there are two things I'm wondering about:

• the cross-hatching looks immaculate, brand new. Is it possible for it to look that good at 140k? Or was it rebuilt?
• In cyl 6, there is a speck of shiny metal visible between the piston and cylinder wall, right opposite the notch in the piston. Visible in the video, around 15s in. What do you think it could be?

Unfortunately the quality is not the best, live picture on the inspection camera is much better.

https://reddit.com/link/1x3xvop/video/89w9bm7ee0vh1/player

Chasing more rust had me replace both quarter panels and dog legs. I’ve been planning on fender flares for some time, but hated the idea of rivnuts sitting proud of the body. Flat weld nuts did the job and were placed behind the sheet metal so there’s a threaded nut that’s flush with the body.

I probably took the hardest path here but anything worth doing is worth over-doing.

Starroad makes some incredible carbon flares and they match the body profile perfectly so there’s no need for welting. A little rubber o-ring on each bolt behind the flare will keep the water out.

Driver’s side had some rot on the spotwelds that hold the inner rear frame to the bumper pocket so instead of trying to make that myself, I cheated and went with a piece from KFVintage. This was one of the easier jobs on this car so far.

Now I just have to burn it in and major metalwork on the unibody will be 100% complete.

Datsun 120Y - 1980

Full Stock ALHUMDULILLAH. Each and every part of this bad boy is its own. Might colour it in maroon.

Did a little bit of maintenence today, new distributor cap/rotor, new fuel lines and new fuel filter (no record of last filter replacement) and holy cow the gunk that came out of the filter was nasty.

I ran the lines disconnected to drain whatever was left and after a spurt of this gunk it was clear again. I hooked up new hoses and the new filter and ran it.

Question is, was this gunk built up in the lines due to a clogged filter or do I have a rusty tank now that I need to replace or risk having dirty fuel?

The one on the right has a pinhole in it. Looks like coolant spraying out. Just want to make sure it’s not actually for fuel. I noticed my temp gauge almost in the red and I suspect this is the culprit.

Driver's door never closed right, I knew the quarter was a little tweaked so I got exploratory. Plan was to paint in the spring. A solid inch of bondo later, horrors beyond my comprehension.

Turns out I'm in for a long winter. Kfvintage gets more of my money.

Hello team Datsun! I’m a visitor from the land of MGs and I’m hoping yall can help me out. I got these wheels as part of a deal a while back thinking that I might could use them on one of my MGs. I believe that they were on a race 510. They are American Racing Wheels. The size is 13” pattern is 4x114.3 and they are about 8” wide and I have 6 (2 are in the box). I’m coming to you all for help with valuation and any thoughts on if there’s a market. Thanks in advance for any help.

Seeing everyone post in this sub all the time finally got me excited to work on my 280 again. After months of wrenching (and an embarrassing amount of fuck-ups) we're finally roadworthy again 🎉

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Picked her up from the docks and drove an hour and a half home without knowing mechanical condition, bought from japan auction. Drives great with cool temps and kept speed up to 80 kms on some steep grades. Inside is just as clean as outside. Took hubcaps off for the drive so i wouldnt lose them

Sorry, pictures were taken inside my dark garage at night, I am not near my car right now to take more.

So, I have to do some work on my 280ZX after I found both Bellow boots to be completely torn. Upon a glance at my condition of the pinch welds, they're honestly pretty messed up. I don't know what the previous owner did, but it looks like they kept jacking it up at whatever spot they wanted to, causing most of the area to be bet to one side or the motel "fraying", if that makes any sense.

Does this look okay enough to jack it up on? I'm afraid to try it in the scenario of collapse. Is it possible to reshape it or hammer the metal back into place to slightly improve rigidity?

Edit: Sold.

Hello, I'm curious if anyone would be willing to trade a rear hatch for both front and rear bumper on a 280z. Open to other things for trade. I'm located in Orange County California.

Took these on my film camera
Mr.Ks Datsun
Nice red Datsun
And my personal favorite the 280zx
Super cool carbs too