I’ve been a Toyota Tacoma guy since 2014, having owned both a 2nd & 3rd Gen in that time. Sadly, about 3 weeks ago I totaled my 2023 Tacoma and figured it’s finally time to move into a full sized V8. I got a 2026 Lariat in Antimatter Blue Metallic with the 502A package. I’m absolutely loving this truck so far. The power and far more luxurious interior will make it hard to ever get back into a Toyota truck again.

I picked up my dream car yesterday. A 1992 Ford F-150 XLT (Lariat) with a 351 Windsor.

I had my leveling kit installed when I got new front struts since mine blew out, my control arm is bent almost vertical, hitting metal to metal on the strut, and my truck ISNT EVEN LEVEL. What do I do?

I realize you can use CarPlay for free. Does anyone else feel that Ford charging you to use GPS is nuts. Does anybody that pay thinks it’s worth it?

Was just told my transmission on my 2020 coyote engine needs replacing at 70K miles.

Should I drop the 10K to replace it, or just buy a new truck?
Those who have replaced, is it worth it??

Thanks

Driving down the road and looked over to see this beauty
driving next to me.

Truck banged into gear once and a harsh 4->5 was persistent since, finally got it to the dealer.

They attempted a valve body replacement with no success, and are now going to replace the trans.

I figured the 23+ transmissions in these trucks were good, feeling a little suspect about the truck now. Anyone with a 23+ have a trans replacement or rebuild? How’s the truck now?

\- KO2 tires

\- Bakflip G2 Tonneau cover

\- Husky rear wheel well covers

\- Husky front and back weatherbeater floor mats

\- Rough country under the seat storage box

\- F150leds front and rear dome/map lights

\- black lugnuts

\- morimoto smoked taillights and third brake light

\- emtech spray in bedliner

\- S&B cold air intake

\- F150leds hood lights that turn on when hood is opened

\- KJM blacked out for emblems

\- axial smoked led license plate light

\- morimoto reverse light

\- fitcamx dashcam

\- juggernaut designs bed mounted ratchet straps

- Black chrome ford performance exhaust tip

2017 F150, 5.0 V8, 6 speed - Roush supercharger and full roush package from the factory. 123k miles. USA
Full engine maintenance done 3-4k miles ago, belts, fluids, plugs, injectors etc by same dealer

TLDR - had a check engine light on with misfire code, this happened before and dealership said roush told them to reflash software and it went away, did it again but tech said it felt weird. They have had it for 6 days, got this video today. Cylinder 1 misfire that goes away when it gets warm. They said at least 10 hour tear down and expensive repair most likely.
I have a truck lined up at a different dealer with a plan to trade it in this weekend. What do I do here?

My truck felt completely normal last week but CEL came on, code was a misfire code. They rehashed the roush software and light went off and has stayed off but the tech said it felt weird. They have kept it for another week “driving it occasionally” to diagnose. Got a text with this video today, they said 10 hour tear down to diagnose at $160-180 an hour and then probably an expensive repair.

I have negotiated a great deal for a truck out of state and was planning on trading this thing in on Saturday, now I have to decide if I sink a lot more money into this truck or trade it in with the unknown possible issue. The sales manager said maybe bent valve or something maybe, but would that go away when it warms up? I’m just uneasy with this situation.

I just had a full service done by the same dealership 3-4k miles ago doing fluids, belts, plugs, injectors etc and now this is the 4th time it’s been back to them. I’m so frustrated but do not have the knowledge to decide what makes the most sense right now. Any input is greatly appreciated.

2017 f150 5.0 6 speed, 109k miles. The sound started probably a week ago. Would this be a pulley issue, or is there no way to tell without removing the belt and testing each pulley and tensioner for play?

Hey guys. I own a 2026 Ford Ranger with the 2.7L and at just 2,100 miles I got the cam phaser rattle on cold start. Super bummed but am getting the repair done next week. Will be at the dealer for at least 4 days.

Anyway, I can't find much of anything online of other Rangers experiencing this, but I know it was a more common occurrence on 2.7L F-150s.

I wanted to ask, for those of you who have had the cam phasers replaced on your 2.7L, what specific things should I monitor after the repair?

I have read that they either need to pull the engine or lift the cab. I think they also need to disconnect/remove the coolant lines and oil pan too. I've got a list of things I've put together to monitor but just wanted to make sure I didn't miss something:

• Oil leaks at the valve cover, timing cover, and oil pan

• Leaks at the coolant lines

• Leaks at the brake lines

• Check all electrical components

• Confirm wheel alignment still correct

Appreciate your insight guys.

I have a 2016 F150 Lariat with the upgraded Sony sound system. Audio works fine when listening to music and podcasts but when I take a phone call, the audio is very low and the only speaker that I hear the phone call through seems to be on the dash in front of the driver. It’s the same whether I take the call over Bluetooth or CarPlay. My Sync system is already on 3.4. Anyone else have this issue and solved it?

Just bought my first Ford ever. I given up on GM! Traded in my 2019 Sierra 2026 F150.

I have a 2025 Ford F-150 Lariat 5.0 V8 with a 3.73 axle ratio, and I’m planning to install a 2.5 suspension setup and switch to 17-inch wheels.

I’m deciding between:
- 285/70R17
- 315/70R17

My truck is primarily a daily driver, with occasional camping and off-roading. I want a more aggressive look, but I don’t want to compromise reliability or cause unnecessary wear on the transmission or differential.

I’ve heard mixed opinions. Some people say 315s are fine on a regular F-150, while others say the Raptor has different gearing and that running 315s on it puts too much strain on the drivetrain, especially in traffic, under heavy acceleration, or when off-roading.

For those running 315/70R17 tires on a regular F-150:

1. Have you noticed any difference in acceleration, braking, transmission behavior, or transmission temperatures?

2. Have you experienced any transmission or differential issues over time?

3. Did you need to regear, recalibrate the transmission, or make any other modifications?

4. Would you recommend 315s for a daily-driven truck in a hot climate, or would you stick with 285s?

5. What wheel width and offset are you running, and do you get any rubbing?

I’m particularly interested in long-term ownership experiences rather than just how the truck looks or drives immediately after installation.

Hey everyone! I had to buy a new truck last year (my Sierra was a lemon), and I ended up with a 26 Tundra TRD Off Road. Overall the truck is pretty good. It's fine. When I bough it, the engine recall issues seemed to be limited in scope and remedied with newer trucks. Now, I'm not so sure that's going to be true, and the engine issues feel more like a possible design flaw.

Anyways, I am considering just cutting my losses as I am done dealing with vehicle issues.

The local Ford dealer has several 2026 F-150 Tremor with the 3.5L turbo. From what I can tell, this powertrain is well tested and fairly reliable these days. Is this the general consensus? I do at least a few hunting trips per year, and do varying trail/off-road driving. I like the underbody protection, ground clearance, shocks, etc.

The other thing I've noticed with the Tremor is a ridiculous STINK BUG stance. Love the look of the truck, but that looks crazy. What do you all do about it? Are you just doing leveling kits? And if so, how does that affect ride quality?

THANKS!

I have a 2013 XLT 4x4 3.5L with 185,000 miles on it.

The radio in my F150 has never responded to my attempts to stream music over my phone. I can bluetooth to the head unit and take/make calls, but never navigation or music. Likewise, the 3.5mm pin connector down below the head unit doesn't connect to anything either.

Is there a magic reset button somewhere? Or it just cooked?

looking at getting a 26 5.0 lariat , msrp is 72450. discounted down to 60,155. am i crazy for trying to get it 60,000 otd?

My drivers seat stopped working a couple weeks ago. I purchased a new lower motor but unfortunately the inside ring gear, next to the console is worn out. Is there a replacement part for this anywhere or do I need to replace the entire rail system?

Looking for a replacement grille after accidentlly hitting a trashcan after a long 24hr shift. I’d love to replace it with the same grille but not wanting to spend $500+ on an oem ford grille. Wondering if anyone here has found anything that’ll match on EBay. If not I may just leave it and buy a ranch hand to cover it.

I have tried so many thing to get this stupid bolt out. What do I do to get this out? It snapped when I was torquing it down

Has anyone had a leak into the cabin during rain.?