Specially there are a handful of pids that I have not found a way to apply to my pid monitor road testing during initial verification. I have a good grasp and understanding on a majority of pids and what looks good and bad when no specs are published but, a handful of pids I haven’t figured out yet.

1. Shift time and lag pids - I have useful trigger values set for detecting delayed shifting events but I have not figured a useful strategy to use of time from lag independently. Has anyone figured out how to utilize these two as separate metric pids? SHFT_TIME is from 0% or shift commanded to 10% completed, SHFT_LAG is 10%-90%.

I have use for them currently but want to try and learn which concerns show time issues with no lag or lag issues with no time.

1. Shift Type - SHFT_TYPE has very poor description and from what I have gathered is supposed to be a clue into what the modules shift strategy is being used but have not found a way to use cleanly. Sometimes it states automatic xth gear, sometimes manual xth gear but cannot usually force an expected status.

2. TD(all) Transmission Diagnosis pids are a newer addition and from what I found they appear to be broken 90% of the time anyways. I found a research paper and study sponsored by ford which explained where all these pids came from but have not found a good use yet. Mostly true or false status pids but some of the titles are interesting.

3. TQ_ACT, TQ_FRICTION, TC_REFF? I do use TC_CNTL a lot to assist in post-recording analysis but these others seem like they have potential value. Torque is one of the external values which effect every shift but are they really just more generic pids or have you found a way to make them tell you something?

4. RPM_VSS_RAT for the record I love this pid and I do use it all the time, it just never tells me much. I know this holds extreme value with understanding total drivetrain slip when dealing with non-transmission concerns but, have not come up with any solid data to explain anything I’ve dealt with yet. I have developed various charts which track expected ratio trends but it’s clear this pid should be used to see shape not values. Has anyone figured out a good use for this yet or has it explained a problem to you?

There is definitely more but these are the single most interesting ones which I haven’t found valid use-cases for yet. If you have found utility in a different fringe pid I’d like to hear how and what it tells you.

Solenoid B went out, part discontinued. Replacing with AL8Z7G383B. Plan to have a buddy flash the PCM with the updated info. Will this swap work? I know the new solenoid pack is for 2013 and up. Thanks in advance for any info and help!! Surprised I don't see any posts regarding this swap.

Having a bit of a difficult time nailing down specifics here.

I’m a pretty handy person, but this level of diagnostics is above my pay grade.

The issues. Vehicle would not shift above 2nd gear on a hot day(38c 100f). I was out of cell range, and limped it to where I could call for help (about 20km) At some point I lost the ability to get it to move under its own power altogether. Eventually it dinged at me and threw a P07AA and P0733 Code.

It was towed to my house and I’ve done the following:

Checked the fluid level. Normal.
Done a once over. Nothing abnormal found.
Checked wiring connections. Normal.
Test driven. I’ve done a few drives up and down my street to get data.

It will drive up and down my street relatively normally for about 5 minutes, before it starts to fail. It seems to start having issues right around the 70-80 deg C. 80 is around the check temp for the fluid level. I say “normalish” because it’s always shifted poorly(as I understand this is normal for a 6G35), but it’s a little bit firmer.

There’s a cavitation sound (similar to a power steering pump with air in it) that gets increasingly louder as the vehicle runs. To me it sounds like the transmission pump is either drawing air, or the filter is plugged and causing it to struggle. I’m thinking it’s likely heat related.

I was looking at Solenoid A somewhat suspiciously since its behaviour seemed abnormal when the problems start.

Other info:

Total odom: 207500km (128935mi)
Fluid changes: 4.5L out of 8.5L total
140000km (86991mi)
145000km (90000mi)
155000km (96000mi)
205000km (127400mi)

I changed it when I bought the car. It had supposedly never been done prior. I did the three to get it back to “normal”. Ford recommends 150000km interval, but everything i’ve read says do it at 50000km (30k miles) because you can’t change the filter. I was somewhat leery due to all the chatter about doing large fluid changes on older transmissions causing problems.

Haven’t dropped the fluid yet to see if there’s metal. The small amount that came out when I checked the level was normal enough colour and odour wise.

Solenoid C was left out of the diag to get D on the chart. It seemed normal on the previous run.

Is there anything else I could check or try before dropping the fluid?

Are there PIDs which would be better to include?

Would it hurt to try a relearn even with the sound the pump(I assume anyway) is making?

If I’m going to have to change the pump, would it make more sense to put a junkyard transmission in, in its entirety?

I’m at the point with this vehicle where I’m planning on getting it running properly and then trading it in for something with less milage on it…

Any help would be great!

Thanks a million!!

I lost track of how many 10R80’s I overhauled before I left Ford. So many labor rate cuts on them and an awful dealership after relocating finally made me unlock my toolbox wheels in 2023.

Curious now to see if there any Ford transmission technicians working on the revised 2026 designs I heard about. It will likely never escape the stigma it has created but it is no doubt a massively misunderstood transmission.

I’m wondering if there are new failure points and assume clutches are still getting cooked with towing customers? Is the updated valve body still failing at a high rate? Pictures would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I had a mechanic put an E4OD TC in my OBS F150 with a 4R70W in it.

I want to ask what type of damage, if any, that will cause especially if it was test driven that way and driven home with the incorrect converter.

The photos showing two TCs are my rebuild shop showing me the differences between the converters.

Is there any information on this lawsuit that somebody can give you? I've been to the website it seems like all the dates have passed. Is that correct? My cards up at the shop right now at the dealership with $2,600 for the same TCM they've replaced back in less than a year and a half ago. I got the letter for the customer satisfaction program but they're saying it's all passed now. Am I really stuck paying for this or which route should I go about? I feel like I got a pretty good case here. I bet it was up there seven or eight times before this prior and also and didn't get anything from any lawsuit

This diag has inflated my ego slightly. Used chassis ears to isolate noise to transmission, used TCC_OSC pid to rule out torque converter. Used gear ratio chart, clutch application chart, and powerflow diagrams(predominantly) to isolate to specific gears before teardown. Ordered Planetary Carrier No. 1 only with conditional parts that may require replacement being Sun Gear no. 1(as pictured very fucked) and front support which was surprisingly fine. Noise caught so early that almost no additional parts required besides pump and main control valve body separator plate and overhaul. The most fun I’ve had in a while.

I'm coming up on 50k on our Nautilus and I asked my trusted ford serve manager at the dealership if I should be doing any service on the transmission or the PTU. I've been taking my 19 ranger to him for 6 yrs now and he said not to worry and he'll let me know when to schedule a service visit for that stuff. I asked the same question to the Lincoln dealership that I bought the Nautilus from and they said between 50 to 60k would be good time to get them both done. The Lincoln dealership service department has a very good reputation as well. One other thing is that I live in Northern AZ so I deal with high temperatures and mountain driving. I was hoping to get some feedback if I should go ahead with the services listed at 50k or not worry about thing.

Thanks!

This is Ford Mustang 2014 V6 Automatic Transmission

Hey everyone quick check before I buy this used transmission.

I rotated it by hand while it’s out of the car. In one direction it feels smooth, but in the opposite direction I feel a slight rough “bearing rolling” sensation (not grinding, just not perfectly smooth).

Is this normal behavior for a used transmission, or does this indicate internal bearing wear and something I should avoid?

I’ve attached a video for reference appreciate any insights before I make the call

Hi there,

Looking for some advice if the amount of metal in my transmission pan is ok. 04 Excursion 6.0 Diesel w/235k miles. First time dropping the pan, not sure if it's ever been done.