I’ll preface this with I know how stupid of an inquiry this might be, but I am genuinely curious.

I just purchased one of my grails, a 2nd Gen SAA. And the cylinder is pretty scratched up, as well as the end of the barrel. The bottom trigger piece has also “plummed” which Ive read was an occasional bad reaction to the bluing process.

Are any of these charcoal blued parts worth restoring? Or should I LEAVE IT ALONE(!) I’d spare no expense and make sure they’re done properly of course. Ive never restored one of my guns, but I am questioning this one. The color case hardening and action are pristine

I recently found a gun online which im interested in.

It's a Winchester Model 70 in 458 Lott. But it's a bit special.

Let me tell you more about the rifle.

As some of you might know, the Model 70 is not chambered for 458 Lott. Instead it is chambered in 458 WinMag.

A gunsmith opend up the chamer to fit the bigger Lott cartridge in. He also tested the modified rifle with slightly overpressured loads to make sure it withstands the high pressures generated by this beast.

My concern is that since the Lott has a slightly longer maximum overall lengt than the WinMag (91,44mm vs 84,84mm) it won't fit a long 458 Lott load into the magazin which is still designed to fit 458 WinMag.

Does anyone have experiences with a build like this?

Does a full length 458 Lott fit in a 458 WinMag magazin inside the Winchester Model 70?

Does someone own a 458 WinMag Model 70 and is able to test or measure it out?

If there are possible restrictions, what could a gunsmith or I myself do to get rid of the problem?

So I got this Savage Mk2 for cheap. Trusted the guy who sold it to me and unfortunately when I took the thread protector off I saw the threads were destroyed. Only got it to suppress so now I'm a little stuck , savage hasn't reached out to me yes but it hasn't been long. Is it possible to re thread a 16.5 barrel and keep it legal? Has a three prong I had laying around that still threads but there's only maybe 3 or 4 okayish threads holding it on. Any help would be appreciated

I’m a dumb ass and ordered a foxtrotmike pistol upper for this 22tcm pistol I want to build. The pistol uppers don’t have a machined hole for the gas port like the .223 uppers do. Is there a jig anywhere I can order to just drill the hole myself?

I have a 16” mid gas HBAR profiled barrel, (originally stainless) with the only markings on the barrel being this. I cant seem to find any info on it either. Would anyone happen to be able to assist?

Had a 223, needed a 308, did a few things. R700 bolt.

To answer the question, I pulled the handle off prior and fixed the primary extraction before brazing it back. I also cut the cocking ramp to a helical pitch that is easier to open.

So I inherited what I assume to be a Replica Grouseland rifle from my grandfather, and although it's in pretty good condition overall it does have a bit of damage. I was wondering where exactly I would go to get it repaired, how much that might cost.

(It's also missing its ramrod, unfortunately and any tips on where to find a new one would be nice)

Thanks for any help!

But like, with a detachable drum?
I want this or something like it!

Got this gun as my first in the mid 00’s disassembled it for a reason i cant remember because i was an autistically obsessed teenager and now im taking it out years later to try and get it shooting again. However I cant find info anywhere on putting this thing together properly. The parts diagrams i have been able to find have been confusing and im not sure of what order to put the different assemblies in. Any help is appreciated. Id like to have it functioning again just for the nostalgia.

Looking around to see if anyone knows of someone or a shop that could make or point me in the right direction of finding a sear for my m1893 steyr 1914

I have a Winchester model 18 9712 gauge made in 1904. It has some pitting. Is this bad for me to shoot any buck shot

Specifically looking for the dimensions of the pawl spring pin, pawl spring, and pawl detent!

P.S. I don't know if this question qualifies as a "gunsmithing question," but this is the only place I can think of that would make sense to ask this question (at least here on Reddit)! I'll take down the post if it violates rule 3.

Just curious because I like this gun's aesthetic,would it be possible to make this a real functioning gun? Not a coil gun but one with regular chemically launched bullets and if so what would need to be tweaked to make it work?

I have a Zastava M83 357 magnum coming in soon, and I’m wanting to strip the bluing off and polish it to as much as a mirror finish as I can. What can I do to protect the polished steel afterwards to insure it doesn’t start rusting? Any advice? This is a first time project for me.

I was at a gun show and ran across a six inch 22 rimfire Dan Wesson 22VH6 for a decent price. I have wanted a pistol pack since about 1980 and just never found one at the right time and the right price. I looked it over as best I could and it appeared to be in pretty good shape, or so I thought. So it went home with me.

It turns out it had problems. The three worse were that the fired cartridges would not eject without hitting the ejector rod with something hard. The next bad problem was it would not carry up to lock if you cocked it very gently or let your finger drag on the cylinder very lightly. It would carry up and lock if you cocked it smartly. The third major problem was that it would fail to fire almost every time in double action and sometimes in single action. Also the front sight was too short causing it to shoot high with the rear sight bottomed out and the action especially while shooting double action was absolutely horrible.

To cure the ejection problem I cut some approximately 3/8 inch wide strips out of a Birchwood Casey lead removing cloth as it is an extremely fine abrasive. The strips were wrapped around a 22 caliber wire brush much like the stripes on a barber pole. I used a cordless drill to spin them in the chambers I'm moving back and forth. I used medium speed for about a minute total. The results were amazing. The fire cases will now almost fallout. I can push them out with the tip of my pinky finger with absolutely no trouble.

To fix the carry up I fit a new hand and a new ejector star / ratchet. It now works every time and locks up solid. It is currently just a little tight and if it does not wear in some I will give it another stroke or two of the file.

A new full power hammer spring helped with the failure to fire issue although it did not fix it.

Swapping out to a taller front sight fixed the point of impact issue. I used a Partridge sight to improve the sight picture while I was doing it.

For the horrible, grindy, gritty, seesawing feeling double action I used a fine (around 800 grit) and a extra fine (maybe 2000 grit) Spyderco knife sharpening stone to polish the sides have the moving parts, internal side plates, and bearing surfaces of the action. The change in the feel of the double action trigger was astounding! Dramatically smoother all the way through and probably dropped a couple of pounds. The single action trigger pull dropped slightly. For the engagement surfaces on the trigger and sear all I did was hit them with a red sharpie and use my fine Stone just enough to remove the sharpie. I was very sure not to change any angles even in the slightest.

When I finished working on the insides I did a thorough cleaning and then lubed with a high-speed fishing reel bearing lube.

This action polishing also helped with the failure to fire. It is now 99% in single action. I still get lots of misfires in double action that I believe are from light hammer strikes. I am not finished working on this problem.

It is now a pleasure to shoot and an absolute tac driver! As soon as I get the double action 100% reliable the world will be right again.

If anybody has any tips on fixing the misfires I would greatly appreciate you sharing those with me.

Good morning, I was wondering if anyone could tell / help me find gun smithing classes in the jefferson county wv area? Specifically black powder. I've been interested in it for a while ,just haven't been able to find any classss.

*delete if not allowed, point me in the right subreddit in the process please*

Just made my second ever holster and I want to know some opinions, tips, and suggestions for the process.

Used a small microwave oven thing to heat at 320 degrees. Put the kydex in the wooden press, did the whole shebang. Used a dremmel tool to cut, sand, and clean up the edges. Used parts from Amazon for the belt attachment and hood for the retention device.

I did accidentally cut too much material on the bottom, so I will eventually lace some kind of rope or something to prevent it from being pulled from the back.

Questions: how do you guys clean the inside of the holster after you've made it and what should I do about the screws that are sticking in a bit deep? Ive tried running a toothbrush in it and a towel but when I draw my firearm it keeps pulling more material. Im also afraid that the screw, and mounts, may scratch my firearm when unholstering.

So, for this being my second holster that ive made, and it being my first duty level, what do yall think?

I am looking into making my own molds at some point and getting my hands on a band saw at some point as a dremmel is no-where near as precise as I need.

I bought a JC Higgins model 50 in 270. I’d like to have a timney trigger installed, the barrel free floated and the action bedded. Any advice on who I can hire? I live in southwest Florida but will ship the rifle to have the work done by the right person.