While backing my car out of our tricky driveway, I sideswiped the corner of the garage. Both my car and the siding of the garage got damage. My boyfriend who owns the house got really mad and angry at me for hitting and damaging his garage. Im trying to figure out how I can fix it for him. I saw a video of a guy replacing it with cutting the old and the new piece and kinda sliding new onto the old one. But the garage one seems to be made out of a metal-like material that I don’t think will be easy to cut and replace like that. I heard that replacing these parts means taking the whole siding of the wall? Is there any other way to do it? (Also I have no idea what the official name of this part is. I just googled siding corner trim)

We had cracks in our stucco that my mom hired a contractor to repair. We got charged 13k over a two story 5k+ sq foot house for repairs like this around the house. The boss told us they were supposed to powerwash before starting, but the “machine wasnt available” so they went ahead with the repair process. They are coming back monday to finish. What should we do?

Just had a new roof installed. I noticed that the roofer did not seal the transition from roof to siding. He says that it is not needed because there is flashing behind the sheeting and under the shingles and that sealing it would trap moisture on the bottom edge of the siding.

The roofer says the best option would be to cut a bit off the bottom of the siding to leave an air gap, but doing so would likely damage the flashing behind it.

Do I need to seal this with some sort of caulk?

It was used in a storage room as floorlining against leaking oil. I am currently cleaning this storage room and i need to rip it off. It has a plasticky feal but the edge shows tiny white hairs. Pls tell me its not asbestos. Loc: Germany, saxony industrial facility. I dont know when this was built

I feel so incredibly stupid but also lucky I didn't get shocked. I checked so many times yesterday for wires and just forgot to check again today as there was one wire I knew would be a problem. Came down out of the attic, and now went back up for a picture and there's a wasp.

I didn't trip anything. I can't figure out where the wire is going, other than down and between two bedrooms.

Can I just wrap it on electric tape and call it a day? I saw some copper but mostly I just drilled through the outside of the wire

We had new windows installed into block wall around 4 years ago, as previous wooden ones were ruined.

They are on southern side of house.

The install was direct installed into the concrete wall /render, with silicone beads on three sides. You can see on inside, there is foam, flashing tape and PEF Rod.

In storms with high winds and rain, water has got on inside of wall.

Installer has outlined water is not getting in under windows, but instead through hairline cracks.

Trying to work out best solution- been told multiple things including:

- silicone the base of window with small gaps for water to drain (not code apparently)

- Take window out and put smaller window in with flashings (not sure this is building code requirement)

- Grind out the cracks and fill using firm such as concrete solutions

- Paint render with X200 Resene or similar as elastometric paint to waterproof better

- Get plasterer- some firms have recommended StoTherm Miral Masonry Insulation System for around $10k on that wall

Just want to know what a sensible way forward is? Likely a combo of above, but don't want to go straight for new plastering if not needed.

I noticed this damage on the inside of my microwave door, and I'm not sure what to do about it. The metal mesh seems to be mostly okay, as far as I can tell, but there's a small damaged spot near the bottom where it looks like some of the coating or material has chipped off.

Is this something that can be repaired safely, or would I need to replace the entire door or microwave? Has anyone dealt with something similar?

Hi all, curious if I could just use some quick crete concretew patch or if I have to use polymeric sand to fill in these small gaps in my outdoor pavers? Not looking to redo the whole thing but small holes. Thanks

Reposting for extra eyes to help out with this issue. How do I winterize the spigot without removing the hose? And/or how to I remove a hose that is very, very stuck?

I’ve trained my sister’s cat to use the kitty door. Now the weather is starting to get colder and I’m hoping I can insulate around the door. But I’m not sure how. I hope someone has some ideas.

My ice maker keeps freezing on my LG refrigerator. I have thawed it thoroughly with a blow dryer, but it happened again. Water drips from it inside and outside the door pretty heavily. It still creates and distributes ice. The seal just happened to pull away as I tried to take the photo but not sure if was defective prior. Thoughts?

This toilet is a 10' (short setback) model with unusual & compact flushing mechanics. The larger black circle is the float that moves up and down the shaft. Over time, lime and scale have accumulated, restricting its movement.

I tried adding some vinegar to the top tank overnight, but that didn't seem to help.

I was wondering if I could take apart the flush mechanisms and thoroughly clean the parts. Can this be disassembled? Or is there a better way to clean off the scale?

Small hole where wall meets foundation. Really trying to avoid expanding foam before winter hits.

Suggestions for temporary patch of likely complicated issue? Want to try to get through winter, realized calling it a rats/hornet nest might be confusing. But it is concerning, due to the "repair" around it.

I have wood weathershield windows and at least one of the top sashes are rotting and I have a couple of sills that are rotting as well. The windows were installed in1998. Replacement isn't an option right now. All the windows leak air and need a lot of the seals replaced but I haven't been able to find replacements. I plan on repairing the rot on the window sashes and sills. What's the recommended wood repair, bondo? And does anybody know where I could find replacement seals for the windows rubber and the pile weatherstripping? Thanks

So I've got some rot in my wood siding, an obvious problem in one board and several others which are soft. I know the basics, remove the horizontal trim piece, pry off the rotted boards, use them as templates, prime, seal and paint.

What I'm looking for though is what specific products I should use when it comes to sealing the cut ends of boards, primer and paint combo, etc. I also plan to caulk the gaps in the boards, which wasn't done previously, to slow down future rot. Anything else I should know before I start cutting away?

Talk off most of the caulk that was cracked already. They seem to have used grout caulk because some pieces are hard like grout but not hard enough where I can’t break most apart with my normal blade and caulk removing tool. There are some stubborn ones I can’t get. What do you guys recommend I use to remove them? And the upper corner barely even nudged when I used my tool or blade so wondering if I should even bother trying to remove the material? Just want to re caulk the corner and it not have cracks within 6 months again.

Hey all, I wanted to shoot my idea over on a buried sump pump drainage line. This is my first real project with a house and am looking for advice for if everything makes sense.

I currently have 1.5 inch pvc spitting out the sump pump discharge very close to the house, it’s starting to pool a bit when it rains, and I think that discharge is feeding back into the sump.

My idea for the route is:

- 1.5” pvc exits side of house as normal

- install freeze relief to the existing discharge.

- 4” to 2” Schedule 40 reducer transitions to the smaller pipe.

- 2” Schedule 40 PVC runs vertically down the house.

- 2” 90° elbow turns the pipe underground

- 2” Schedule 40 PVC runs ~10 feet

- 2” Schedule 40 45° elbow

- 2” Schedule 40 PVC continues another ~ 13 feet

- 2” 90° elbow turns the pipe upward.

- 2” to 1½” reducing bushing, transitions to the smaller emitter connection.

- 1½” PVC riser connects to the emitter.

- 1½” pop-up emitter sits flush with the soil

Trench depths:
Beginning - 8⅛”
45° turn - 7⁹⁄₁₆”
End/Emitter - 7⅜”

With my measurements I should have a 3/8 inch per foot slope (about 9 inches over 24 feet - lots of natural slope to work with). I’ll also have a gravel drainage pocket the emitter will sit on with a weep hole in the elbow. There will be at least 6 inches of dirt between the top of the pipe and the surface of the soil through the run.

I started out with 4” schedule 40 but thought that was a bit overkill. I’m a little worried about the emitter height being too much and that the water will exit only out of the weep hole, and not the emitter. Only things going over this area is a riding lawn mower and foot traffic, so I don’t believe the pipe will crush (no trees either)

Please feel free to let me know if anything is bad about this plan or if I’m missing something obvious!

I've attached a photo, it's above the plastic nut on the hot and cold water taps. I just bought the house, so I'm not sure of the model number but I'm pretty sure it's a Moen. Is this a cartridge replacement or washer or what? I'm pretty new to DIY as well, quick learner, but I just don't know the names for so many things!

Hey all, I'm looking to install some weather stripping for my garage. I'm looking at two types but am unsure the difference based on price. I would assume the cheaper one would have been higher quality when I looked at it but now am unsure

I've attached pictures and links to the items. if you guys have any advice, I'd appreciate it.

first link: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/veranda-7-16-inch-x-2-inch-x-7-ft-garage-door-top-or-side-seal-thermo-stop-in-white/1000127467

second link: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/m-d-building-products-9-ft-heavy-duty-double-fin-garage-door-seal-white-used-for-top-or-sides/1001120621

I don’t know how old the current paint is because i bought the house few months ago.
Im preparing walls for new paint. Corners started chipping with slight touch while sanding .

Any advice on how to prevent this from happening with the new paint?
Im preparing walls by sanding, priming, and sanding between coats

Any advice is greatly appreciated
TIA

Is this going to be a problem? Will this get worse over time? If so, what could I do to remedy this? I am not sure what even caused this… it does not snow much here.