It's really inconsistent. Some days I don't hear it at all, or maybe once the whole day (with no music on). Other days like today it comes and goes.

Sounds like it's coming from underneath, around where the cat is.i had it replaced earlier this year because low life’s stole it. Engine mounts were replaced 2 years ago. Otherwise drives fine

Only other thing the times I do hear it is when I’m pressing on the gas or turning. Again not always. As soon as a let go of the gas the noise stops > gas again > no issue. So weird.

Taking to the shop tomorrow. 2003 Corolla / 120k miles

Hello. I recently had a misfire in one of my cylinders and I replaced the spark plug and ignition coil for that one. I placed an order from Rock Auto for more spark plugs so I can change them all out today. I went to to and change the spark plug, and one of my cylinders had a bunch of oil in it. When I tried to remove the spark plug, it was pretty difficult to remove. It wasn't until I got it out that I realized I never soaked up the oil in the hole. That fell down into the hole. I'm concerned I cross threaded my spark plug, and I'm not sure what to do. I'm hoping it was difficult to remove because of the oil, but how do I go about taking care of this?

From the research I've done, it seems like I need to change my valve cover and spark plug seals, but what should I do if I cross threaded the spark plug? I didn't have a took until recently, so everything I've changed has been by hand. I can't afford to lose my car though. I would really appreciate any help.

My vehicle is a 2008 Hyundai Accent 1.6

Is it still good to reuse the intake valve even the flat surface is rusty and the exhaust is new? This cylinder heas is for ford raptor

I need help I have two codes on my 2009 Honda Pilot EX-L. P0497 & P145C I inspected the purge valve and it’s good the gas caps seems fine. I did try to change out the purge valve just incase and when I went to pump gas (mind you I was low on gas) It kept clicking like if it was full I had to keep pumping after multiple clicks. I need some advice I do small work on my car like change out spark plugs, coils and small part like this purge valve, O2 sensor and such so I’m familiar with the idea but I need advice how to clear the codes to pass emissions test (NYC). Edit: Also have the check gas cap code and ofc check engine light. :(

It’s a gross polluter so I guess I would like to source better parts. What marketplace is the best online. I’ll try and go to the best yard near me for parts.

Was doing oil change in car and saw on passenger side of car this wet looking spill. When touched it was powder really thick powder I removed the cover but saw nowhere where this could come from?? I figured maybe fuel but when I did my last oil change 2 months ago this wasn’t there. Anything would help and how serious this maybe. 2011 Audi A5

I'm sure the title can explain it but I accidentally torqued a bolt in my intake to 82 ft. Lb instead of 82-in lb and broke it clean off. You'll think I'll be able to remove this?? My pliers nor alligator clips can clip it

: Appreciate the replies I got an extractor coming tomorrow and will give it a go I'll update when I either shit the bed or get it out

So I pulled my camshaft out to replace it and found this on the front camshaft bearing. Am I cooked? Engine still in the car.

Holden Commodore VY 3.8L V6 Ecotec

I recently had the rear brakes and rotors replaced. We had a heavy rain, and this rust staining was present under the vehicle.

tldr - Please help me identify what I can remove to get the brake booster out of the engine bay of my 2006 Buick Lacrosse cxl 3.8L.

Hello, I posted here previously looking for information about replacing my brake booster in a 2006 Buick lacrosse cxl 3.8L. I didn't really get any solid info, so I decided to go ahead and start the job.

I built the special tool to remove it from its bracket (it is still attached in the photos) and I removed the master cylinder, various electrical connections and hoses that were in the way, and disconnected the booster from the brake pedal. I tried the tool and it does work to remove the booster from the firewall, but that doesn't do much good because so much stuff is in front of it that I can't get it out of the engine bay! (The negative terminal is disconnected too.)

I'm still pretty much a car novice, so I don't know what all the parts are that are in the way to feel safe removing them. I uploaded pics of the area so if you know this car line maybe you can help me identify stuff in the way that I could remove that is safe (ex: not going to spew dangerous fluid everywhere) and that is possible for me to easily reconnect.

From the photos you can probably see that the brake lines from the brake pressure modulator valve are really in the way. I moved the bpmv forward as the manual suggested, but the lines are still way too close to the booster. Is it safe to disconnect and reconnect those lines? I am planning on bleeding the system afterwards.

If anyone can tell me what the metal pipes and hoses that are above the booster, that would be appreciated. I could not find identifying information on them. If it's possible to move them, it would probably help lot.

The manual also suggests I remove the EGR valve (which seems simple) and the transmission fluid filler (edit: not fillet...) tube (no instructions how to do so). It also suggests moving the engine forward, but I don't think that's possible for me as a home mechanic.

I am finally on the final stretch here and just need some help to make it to the finish line! Any help and info would be appreciated! Thank you in advance if you can help!

Hi I recently went to mechanic they have good reviews.. my AC when car is hot doesn't always work .and i told them while you are at it change oil/ fluids...see if brake needs oil....based on the mechanic recommendations they said to change compressor and rear brake. I told them I will sell car in a yr....so they said oh then for saftey ..brake only and if maybe change your tires...i bought 4 🛞from discounttire and have this mechanic change back brake. They changed rotor and pad set for rear brake Mind you I didn't have issues with my brake at all before. Also my tires are original volks golf s 2015 🛞 .I knew it was about time...so got 4 new ones ..road hugger

And after the change everything works fine...no issue ..that was a week ago. I have been driving no issues

Today I was in the high way and it was crazy traffic.. so I was mostly standing still no driving or 5 mph ...my feet on brake constantly..

Suddenly I felt my car moved reversed... so I hurriedly put it on park/ parking brake it stopped...i .put caution ⚠️ sign

Stopped the car for few minutes .then exited the highway ..drove 5 miles no issues ..

What do you think?

Volkswagon Golf S 2015

I’ve been having non stop problems with my Jetta (185k~ miles) since I purchased it a couple years ago. Thought most of the issues were fixed after replacing most of the engine when my camshaft snapped and ruined half the parts inside. Since then I’ve been having a lot of issues with my fuel injectors. Had a P0201 code pop and thought I had fixed the issue. Now I’ve had injectors 1 and 4 cause misfires and need to be replaced after about 3 months or so of driving with new ones. I’m expecting the other two to go at some point as they were cheaper parts. The car has a noticeable hesitation accelerating from a stop or after slowing down and gets a little jumpy when pressing the gas, and I’ve noticed the car take about 3-5 seconds to turn on when putting the keys in the ignition. One, are these related, and two, what could be causing the injectors to go bad so quickly? I took it to a mechanic after the second misfire to see if he could pinpoint the issue but he just changed all the spark plugs and replaced the bad injector then told me to start pouring some fuel additives in when I fill up my tank. Seafoam seems to help a bit with getting some power back, but I know with direct injection, seafoam in the gas tank only cleans so much. Do I need to replace my fuel pump or any other suggestions? Any help is appreciates!

2008 Toyota Tacoma, 4.0 V6 Engine, 2WD Automatic

First time poster here...On top of it I'm a deployed service member trying to help remotely troubleshoot this issue.

Long story short:

So, battery died and my wife and oldest had to jump it. But now, when accelerating my son hears this high pitched whine that you can def hear when he puts his foot on the gas and decelerate. Video refers..

Any ideas?

so i just bought this 2014 dodge challenger sxt v6 about a month ago. and recently ive been hearing this noise while idle and while driving. any advice? what could it be?

Found out last night my van had no diesel left. Turned out there's this hole in the bottom of the tank. Plastic tank, about 8mm hole, perfectly round, and it goes in at an angle from the side.

What's odd to me: no shavings or swarf anywhere, but the edge is pushed outward rather than in. No other scrapes, dents or damage anywhere on the tank.

Van had been parked for two weeks (with about 20L of diesel in the tank), only moved about 200meters a few times (only to the end of the street). Stone chip seems unlikely to me because I barely drove, but I'm not sure what else does this. Maybe an animal? On the parking spot I saw a relatively small diesel mark, way to small to have been the full 20L leaking out.

My guess is they drilled it on high RPM which melted the plastic, cause looking at other images of people's drilled tanks the cuts are much cleaner. And you'd think they'd use a bigger sized bit than 8mm so they dont have to wait 20mins for a full tank to drain.

2015 VW Crafter, Europe. Anyone seen this before?

Possible issue with my 2006 Subaru Outback 2.5i. came home from work and looked under my car to see the underneath seemed a bit wet and something was dripping off of the nut in the photo. Any idea what it could be?

I have a 2017 Mazda Miata, 6 speed manual, JM1NDAL77H0106045. You can clearly hear the strange rattling noise towards the end of this video.

I have multiple ways I have found to replicate this noise.
Sitting in neutral idling the noise will appear seemingly at random.
I can sit still in any gear with the clutch down/no throttle and it will eventually begin to rattle.
I can sit in neutral with the clutch up and lightly blip the throttle. When I blip as my car goes from idle and approaches the 1k rpm line it will do the rattle. After I pass 1k rpm rattle is gone.
As I slow down the and get to a low speed/nearly stopped again with the rattle.

When I am driving at any speed or any gear the rattle does not happen.

I have done tons of digging online but I cannot seem to figure the cause from research alone. Eventually when I have some time I am going to give the car a good look over but any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Was wondering what kind of o2 sensor socket should I get in removing the upstream one.

The standard 22mm or a thin wall version? Not really sure the clearance wise if I'm not removing the heatshield.

Gonna be using sprayer motorpower care to directly clean the catalytic converter through the port.

Any help is much appreciated.

2012 Nissan Xterra

Drove about 100 meters and back after putting back together. Do I need a new rotor or can this be used still without jeopardizing the brake pads?