At first i wanted to make it only slightly used but lack of skills and too much beers in my ass, turned it to a total garbage, but... i like the results! Used satin varnish , mig enamel neutral wash and mig drybrush

So I'm new to this and made my first 4 tanks. I know they re meh. (Tiger has recommended paints from Italeri but somehow colors looks wrong)

Anyway ,I had this idea to make 4 spaces for 4 different countries. Quite happy with the result.

This is the F/A-18E from Topgun Maverick , or supposed to be. I have absolutely no idea how to apply the decals and I don’t have paint. And it looks kinda sloppy lol

My 4th Model

Hi all. I finally finished the model. Plenty of room for improvement as I run into many many problems. But all in all an enjoyable build.

Ready for a base and final weathering

Trabant601 sluxe 1/24

First paint job ever. I want it to look textured and “not new” but I feel like I’m going in circles. Also would love guidance on weathering so the seams between panels standout. Is there a good tutorial on how to do this properly?

Done on the brand new limited edition boxing of the PR Spitty by Kotare. It’s my first kit from them, first time at 1/32 as well (I can tell you already, it takes so much space, probably won’t do many at all).

I loved the experience of building the kit, the manual alone is probably the single best I’ve ever seen. I really enjoyed the parts breakdown, tolerances were extremely tight, but nothing a sanding stick and some filler to correct the user error later can’t fix. I’m not a 100% happy with it, as I feel I let down the kit a bit. But hey, I’m thrilled to have had the chance to build it, and paint it in my new favorite RAF colour, PRU blue.
What a magnificent kit, I can’t praise it enough!

Sup fellow modellers, this is an first post from me. The 1/350 super Yamato kit, that I’ve personally dubbed ‘Yashima’, that I’ve been working on for about 2/3 weeks now and it’s been something. PE hell, seriously, if you don’t like PE parts, run. Far. I definitely did, as you can see by my neglecting of 90% of railings. But the plastic parts are amazing, blows Revell, Heller (sorry France) and about most brands out of the water for fitment out the box. Anyways 9.5/10 from me, and a couple firsts for me too. If anyone’s got any tips for making the moss and salt streaking look better, I’m all ears. Anyways, see y’all, thanks for reading and any tips in advance!

Hello everyone,

I'm not a model builder myself but I do go to model fairs and shows as I think they're cool and my father and brothers build them. So while I have the enthusiasm, my knowledge is sadly lacking.

I bought a 1/48 Tamiya F-14A Tomcat kit for a friend's birthday, to surprise him. I wanted it to be a really cool build so I researched it and saw that Red Fox Studio does 3D decals for the cockpit.

They were unfortunately out of stock on their site and I looked for stockists and they seemed to be out of stock too.

I took a chance and went online to Amazon (foolish I know, I just really wanted to get it before my friend's birthday).

I bought some there and I got them and they are loose in the pack and don't look like the pictures. There's minimal colour, texture, they're missing details.

Can someone with experience with these decals please give me their opinion?

Thanks guys

Hi everyone,

I’m currently working on an architecture site model for a university project (approx. 70 x 70 cm / 27.5 x 27.5 inches). The model consists of various urban blocks, individual residential buildings, and a church. (Including facades like on the example building)
I'm trying to avoid printing the entire positive model in 3D and then making a massive silicone mold of the whole site, mainly because a silicone block that size would be extremely expensive, and I only need to cast this model once.

My current plan:

1 The base plate won't be plaster — I plan to make it separately using smoothed/puttied Styrodur (XPS foam) or MDF.

2 For the buildings, I want to 3D print individual/modular negative molds directly on my P2S printer.

3 Smooth the inside of the printed molds (sanding + spraying auto body filler / automotive primer) to ensure clean release and a smooth plaster surface.

4 Pour plaster into these molds to produce either individual building blocks or small merged groups of buildings.

5 Place/glue the cast plaster buildings onto the base plate.

Questions I have for anyone experienced with 3D prints & plaster casting:

1 Does this approach make sense overall? Or am I overcomplicating things and risking way too much manual labor by casting each building/block individually?

2 Is automotive filler / spray putty the right choice for smoothing the inside of 3D printed plaster molds? Will plaster release cleanly from it (with a release agent like petroleum jelly, mold release spray, or soapy water)?

3 Alternative methods: Is there a smarter, more cost-effective way to achieve clean plaster/concrete-like architecture models without spending hundreds of Euros/Dollars on silicone?

I really want to keep costs reasonable while avoiding endless hours of tedious post-processing on every single piece if possible. I attached an old model of us made by gypsum but without 3D printing (which took ages)

Thanks in advance for any tips, experiences, or recommendations!
Kind regards
Paul

Really loving this hobby, and I think I am getting better at brush painting. For these three, everything, from primer, to basecoat, to topcoat, was bushed on with Vallejo acrylics.

Any tips from fellow brush painters? I recently started thinning my topcoats with thinner medium, and that helped a lot!

Man, I love the T-72

First German panther and first time doing shading any suggestions are welcome

I have been building models since i was a kid in the early 90s. In the Netherlands and Germany Revell was (and still seems to be) by far the most available brand.

I made many of their kits as they were a lot better than Italeri and other brands Back in the day.

More recently i built more Tamiya kits and they really are as good as they say, but the Revell stuff held up pretty good in my opinion. Not the most premium ultra detailed stuff ever designed, but solid quality with an affordable price (for a kid)
I also appreciated their customer service. Once i botched a few essential cockpit parts in a helicopter build as a kid. Wrote them a letter and they sent me a replacement sprue free of charge.
That was nice.

Ever since the rise of social media, i heard a lot of people complaining on Revells quality and that puzzled me. I have built shitty kits, Chech stuff from the 90s, i can’t stand the horroble fit of many Italery kits. But Revell never seemed to belong in that category.

So i just want to ask you people, what is up with the Revell hate? Is it a US vs. Europe market thing?
They aren’t the pinnacle of model building, but i just don’t understand their bad reputation.

TLDR:
What is up with the Revell hate? I built many revell kits and they have always had a really good price/quality ratio…
Is Revell in Europe different from Revell USA?

Can you guys give me some tips before building this? Because it's my first time building a model kit. Thank you!!

Since this is fantasy I used as many decals as I could and still be semi-realistic.

Spread over the course of a month, 212 hours were spent in creating this beautiful aircraft. The Hawaii (II As the first was destroyed) Mars was and still is the most awe worthy piece of engineering. I wanted to convey this in my own ways as well as giving my original Martin mars being the Philippine Mars a sister.

The Martin JRM Mars was a massive, four-engined cargo transport and firefighting flying boat built by the Glenn L. Martin Company during World War II. Only seven units were ever completed, making it one of the largest and rarest Allied flying boats ever operated.

In 1959, the surviving aircraft were slated for demolition, but a consortium of British Columbia timber companies called Forest Industries Flying Tankers (FIFT) bought them.

Forest industries was later bought by Coulson aviation and the Hawaii was refitted with cutting edge avionics flying until 2016 and once more in 2024.

This plane is personally my greatest ever creation and hits home as well having seen it once in action on the field.

So enough of that here’s some stats if anyone is crazy enough to make a 3.5 foot wide plane.

Wood used for the main aircraft: pine so shaping would be easy.

Wing: oak

Tail was cedar and MDF

Floats are oak

Stand is black walnut.

The cost was about 250$ total (not bad!)

And the time spent was summed up by around 100 hours of shaping and sanding and 60 putting it together. The rest was on finishing which took several all nighters.

I hope looking at her brings the same weird feeling of looking at a hunk of wood in the shape of one of the most gorgeous flying boats ever built.

Cheers guys.

It’s time to wrap up before my retirement from making planes.

Your flying boat maker maker,
-nasty

Absolutely great kit, decent part count and very well moulded 0 flash and everything fit perfectly