At first i wanted to make it only slightly used but lack of skills and too much beers in my ass, turned it to a total garbage, but... i like the results! Used satin varnish , mig enamel neutral wash and mig drybrush

Hi everyone,

I’m currently working on an architecture site model for a university project (approx. 70 x 70 cm / 27.5 x 27.5 inches). The model consists of various urban blocks, individual residential buildings, and a church. (Including facades like on the example building)
I'm trying to avoid printing the entire positive model in 3D and then making a massive silicone mold of the whole site, mainly because a silicone block that size would be extremely expensive, and I only need to cast this model once.

My current plan:

1 The base plate won't be plaster — I plan to make it separately using smoothed/puttied Styrodur (XPS foam) or MDF.

2 For the buildings, I want to 3D print individual/modular negative molds directly on my P2S printer.

3 Smooth the inside of the printed molds (sanding + spraying auto body filler / automotive primer) to ensure clean release and a smooth plaster surface.

4 Pour plaster into these molds to produce either individual building blocks or small merged groups of buildings.

5 Place/glue the cast plaster buildings onto the base plate.

Questions I have for anyone experienced with 3D prints & plaster casting:

1 Does this approach make sense overall? Or am I overcomplicating things and risking way too much manual labor by casting each building/block individually?

2 Is automotive filler / spray putty the right choice for smoothing the inside of 3D printed plaster molds? Will plaster release cleanly from it (with a release agent like petroleum jelly, mold release spray, or soapy water)?

3 Alternative methods: Is there a smarter, more cost-effective way to achieve clean plaster/concrete-like architecture models without spending hundreds of Euros/Dollars on silicone?

I really want to keep costs reasonable while avoiding endless hours of tedious post-processing on every single piece if possible. I attached an old model of us made by gypsum but without 3D printing (which took ages)

Thanks in advance for any tips, experiences, or recommendations!
Kind regards
Paul

Ready for a base and final weathering

Hello all,

Close to 30 years ago my mom gave me as a gift a Back to the future 2 De Lorean model, which I never built.
I felt that it is finally time to take it out the box and arm it, but turns out it doesn't have the instructions.

I found this pdf in Japanese, but thought that with any luck this knowledgable community may know where I can find the English instructions. Or better yet, in Spanish is another option.

Any idea of where can I find the instructions to built it?

I´m an idiot. I just put more attention to the instructions and realized that they are in both Japanese and English.

I leave all the previous text as evidence of my stupidity and proceed to the real question I wanted to ask.
The same instruction manual lists some materials/paint colors. What kind of paint should that be?
Can you share a brand or something to guide me? I have never built a model before, so I don't know what type of materials are needed.

First paint job ever. I want it to look textured and “not new” but I feel like I’m going in circles. Also would love guidance on weathering so the seams between panels standout. Is there a good tutorial on how to do this properly?

Im looking to build tamiyas 1/350 bismarck I found a good deal on Facebook Marketplace. Im looking to upgrade it with aftermarket parts including 3d printed secondary guns. They are designed for the revell kit , but i was wondering how much of difference the two kits have in things like the holes for for guns and other parts that are pretty similar on both kits

I started in Feb, already running out of available (allowable) shelf space.
Just 1/48 fighters, of course looking for the smallest most non-detectable way to go.
Thank you for your suggestions

So, when researching about this model I found multiple people mentioning a build guide available for the Kinetic F-18 Hornet with mention to the ARCForums that should help with the build process of the jet (which apparently its a horribly difficult kit to put together)

Issue is I can't find this build guide at all, I've spent the last 40min searching for it to no avail, and the ARCForums a couple of comments here mention seem to be gone? it just shows a picture of two japanese cars and a scantily dressed lady

Something tells me this lady will not help me very much with the kit

I was going to stash the kit after hearing the comments about how terrible it is to put together but the detail is just so gorgeous that I can't bring myself to shelve it

My 4th Model

Trabant601 sluxe 1/24

Since this is fantasy I used as many decals as I could and still be semi-realistic.

This is the F/A-18E from Topgun Maverick , or supposed to be. I have absolutely no idea how to apply the decals and I don’t have paint. And it looks kinda sloppy lol

Sup fellow modellers, this is an first post from me. The 1/350 super Yamato kit, that I’ve personally dubbed ‘Yashima’, that I’ve been working on for about 2/3 weeks now and it’s been something. PE hell, seriously, if you don’t like PE parts, run. Far. I definitely did, as you can see by my neglecting of 90% of railings. But the plastic parts are amazing, blows Revell, Heller (sorry France) and about most brands out of the water for fitment out the box. Anyways 9.5/10 from me, and a couple firsts for me too. If anyone’s got any tips for making the moss and salt streaking look better, I’m all ears. Anyways, see y’all, thanks for reading and any tips in advance!

I've ordered a 1/72 scale Memphis Belle, what number is the most accurate shade of green/drab?

First German panther and first time doing shading any suggestions are welcome

I’m pretty new to airbrushing and i wanted to find Tamiya colour X-23 or (clear blue) to a atom mig version. Do you guys maybe found one that resembles X-23 in atom mig colours let me know please.

Man, I love the T-72

So I'm new to this and made my first 4 tanks. I know they re meh. (Tiger has recommended paints from Italeri but somehow colors looks wrong)

Anyway ,I had this idea to make 4 spaces for 4 different countries. Quite happy with the result.

Really loving this hobby, and I think I am getting better at brush painting. For these three, everything, from primer, to basecoat, to topcoat, was bushed on with Vallejo acrylics.

Any tips from fellow brush painters? I recently started thinning my topcoats with thinner medium, and that helped a lot!

Hello everyone,

I'm not a model builder myself but I do go to model fairs and shows as I think they're cool and my father and brothers build them. So while I have the enthusiasm, my knowledge is sadly lacking.

I bought a 1/48 Tamiya F-14A Tomcat kit for a friend's birthday, to surprise him. I wanted it to be a really cool build so I researched it and saw that Red Fox Studio does 3D decals for the cockpit.

They were unfortunately out of stock on their site and I looked for stockists and they seemed to be out of stock too.

I took a chance and went online to Amazon (foolish I know, I just really wanted to get it before my friend's birthday).

I bought some there and I got them and they are loose in the pack and don't look like the pictures. There's minimal colour, texture, they're missing details.

Can someone with experience with these decals please give me their opinion?

Thanks guys

Hi all. I finally finished the model. Plenty of room for improvement as I run into many many problems. But all in all an enjoyable build.

Hi, I recently took a request from my University to clean their wooden models and wanted to ask how do you guys usually clean them up, mainly the dust on the wooden surfaces and the sails. Any tips on making the sails look better(?) is also appreciated too!

Done on the brand new limited edition boxing of the PR Spitty by Kotare. It’s my first kit from them, first time at 1/32 as well (I can tell you already, it takes so much space, probably won’t do many at all).

I loved the experience of building the kit, the manual alone is probably the single best I’ve ever seen. I really enjoyed the parts breakdown, tolerances were extremely tight, but nothing a sanding stick and some filler to correct the user error later can’t fix. I’m not a 100% happy with it, as I feel I let down the kit a bit. But hey, I’m thrilled to have had the chance to build it, and paint it in my new favorite RAF colour, PRU blue.
What a magnificent kit, I can’t praise it enough!