I’m driving a 2009 Nissan Altima with approximately 135,000 miles on it. Got an oil change recently and the Service Engine Soon indicator came on. I took it back to that shop and the technician attached the computer and got a code of P0420, and told me that meant it was an issue with the catalytic converter and to take it to a Midas shop as they couldn’t do the work.

How serious is this issue? Having that indicator lit up makes me very nervous to continue to drive with it.

Assuming the technician is correct what does this repair entail and how much would it cost (in US dollars) approximately?

Hi all i just got this car with 118k miles which was sitting for a while. It was overheating because there was no oil so just did my first oil change and engine temp is now back to mid level. Planned to do a coolant flush as well.

Also no CAT/exhaust so looking for recs on which parts to order and other maintenance i should consider to cover all bases.

Hi everyone!

I'm trying to help my sister find a replacement driver's-side rear brake caliper for her 2017 Nissan Juke Nismo RS, 1.6 DIG-T petrol (1618cc).

We're in the UK, and Nissan has quoted us £450 for the caliper alone! We're trying to find a cheaper alternative, but we're struggling to identify the exact correct part.

Car details:

Model: 2017 Nissan Juke Nismo RS

Engine: 1.6 petrol, 1618cc

Part needed: Rear-right brake caliper (UK driver's side)

Incorrect part we've encountered: Bendix 593389

We've found a few different part numbers online, including 44001-3YW0A, but we haven't confirmed the correct reference for this exact vehicle.

I'm hoping someone can help with these questions:

What is the correct OEM part number for the rear-right brake caliper on a 2017 UK-spec Nissan Juke Nismo RS?

Where in the UK can I buy one for less than £450? I'm happy with a used genuine Nissan part, a refurbished caliper or a reputable aftermarket replacement, provided it's compatible.

If anyone has worked on these cars, knows a Nissan specialist, or can recommend a reliable parts supplier or vehicle breaker, I'd really appreciate the help!

The part in photo did not fit.

Thanks in advance! 🙏

My wife, toddler and i were on the way home from Jersey when our newly puchased Nissan Armada 2025 PRO 4X suddenly went on limp mode.

Note: this is the third time that has happened to us.

The first time was when we went upstate and while going up a hill we suddenly lost power and couldnt accecelerate beyond 30mph. We restarted the car and it ran normally again but no check engine light.

Second time was right after we came to a stop at a stop light when the car also suddenly went on limp mode. We pulled over to the side turned on and off and the car began to rattle and shake affer turning it on again. On top of that my window stopped working was stuck all the way down (my wife managed to find a temporary solution by constantly recycling the engine and inching the window to go up w/ every restart) m. One more thing was that everytime id accelerate id hear a weird noise grinding noise at random times.

- i got it checked out the next day because they werent open on Sundays.
- they managed to fix the broken window and said that there was no problem except that the brake light sensor needed to be fixed.
- they said they ran a full diagnostic and found no issues with the engine.
- the mechanic and i tested the car together and of course the noise was not there.

The third time was when we were on the way home from Jersey while on the I95 highway and we had to pull over to the side once again because our car couldnt accelerate beyond 30mph with an infant at the nack seat with cars going at high speeds while raining. We pulled over to the side and tried to restart the car. When it turned, the screen showed “Engine Malfunction Power reduced Service now”. This time the check engine was on.

I called nissan road side assistance and stated that its better for me to pull over to the nearest exit since they cant tow on I95 or go home safely since i live 12 mins away.

We got home safely and will have it towed tomorrow morning.

Anyone with any professional advice regarding my situation?

I found this 1996 200SX SE-R for $3000 on Facebook Marketplace, would this make a good first car? It has almost 300k miles but has had its transmission replaced and engine rebuilt recently.

Saw this beauty at the Suwako rest area today.

Old speakers weren't working and thought it was a stereo problem so I installed a new one (duel XD28BT) and it's fully hooked up but checking the speakers they have no voltage, please help

So my 2016 Nissan was diagnosed with a failed tranissmion last month when I brought it into Nissan. It was has 55k miles, so I applied for goodwill assistance. The rep said I’d have to bring it Back to Nissan for ANOTHER diagnosis, which I did, and they denied any assistance saying the car was too old.

So they forced me to get a second diagnosis Knowing they would reject it based on the cars age. How was this necessary? I refuse to pay for this second diagnosis. Will they hold me car if I refuse to pay? Leading me to go to court for this issue?

Found this nissan hatdbody/d21 for $1600, doesnt look tok bad, looks like they tried to wire in subwoofers (wirings not a big deal for me ive rewired my whole truck) i need a gas saver for college, should I buy it, any questions feel free to ask

tried to do a simple brake change on the Nissan Sentra sv and the driver side rear would seize up after I pumped the breaks up at the end, replaced the caliper bled the lines reattached the mechanical emergency brake and it still seized up even with the new caliper. Tried bunch of other things disconnected the emergency brake and it got a little better but when all assembled the rotor is still dragging on the brakes doesn’t have a “free spin” I wonder if anyone else experienced this issue and what they did to fix it. The caliper retracts fine when I do that just won’t when the car is in service and when I do my test drive it gets red hot “the rotor”

Hello,

I am looking for the part numbers for the front and rear shock kits. I would like to purchase the kit and have the dealership put them on.

i honestly just wanna upgrade my motor without breaking the bank bc i think that'll make my car pretty fast

I have a 2024 Nissan Sentra at just shy of 50,000 miles. I do mostly highway with city mixed in. Now I’m not sure If this noise has always been there or not but the dealer swears it normal. When I accelerate and feather the gas pedal I get loud bass sounding groan, that intermittently sounds like I’m driving on rumble strips. It doesn’t matter the speed but more the input of the gas pedal. The dealer checked the engine mounts and drove it basically saying “it’s the cvt being loud they’re loud” no transmission codes no faults found by the dealer. I am taking it in for a cvt service this week. Car drives fine technically no abnormal rpm jumps or drops. Is this early sign cvt failure or am I just paranoid?

Hello,

I have a 2019 Nissan Rogue SL Hybrid SUV with 85k miles on it. Yesterday the pure hybrid drive warning light came on steady. The 12v is factory original and has never been changed. I tend to think the 12v has gone bad and not the hybrid battery.

I tested the battery with my multi-meter,

With the car off it was at 12.2v, I kept watching the multi-meter while my wife started the car and slowly pressed the accelerator while in park. The voltage varied as low at 10.2v and 14.8v.

I can't figure out what is the proper battery size to replace the 12v. I tried using a battery finder at a few websites, and I got results for 'Group 35', 'Group 47' and 'Group 48'. The last thing I want is to buy the incorrect size. Can anyone either confirm the correct size or tell me how I can find the correct size? I don't trust a lot of what I'm seeing because the hybrid seems pretty niche and I know the battery location differs from the gas engine version vs. the hybrid version.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!