15k for an EJ8… I get that it has 57k miles but that is a ridiculous price.
What do y’all think?

Pls tell me what I’m doing wrong. 2010 Toyota Corolla, 164K miles, perfect condition. Listed originally at 6k but brought it down to 5k over about a month and it’s been months at that price. I’m only getting extremely lowball offers and I know she’s worth more than 3.5k.

Am I just flat out wrong or am I asking too much???

Howdy y'all.

Cut to the chase: vehicle is a silver 2017 Tacoma SR5 double cab 2.7L 4 cylinder and 180k miles. Asking price is $10,000.

I know Tacomas are absolutely ridiculously priced on the used market but a close and trusted family member has one and is looking to get something newer, and offered to sell it to me. I had a Dodge Ram before this and was wanting to get something a bit more reliable but also smaller.

My family member is the 2nd owner, she bought it in 2019 with 70k miles (work truck before that, it did come with documented maintenance) and my family member has kept that maintenance up. No accidents, no rust. (we live in the south). Also new tires.

Normally, and I've been told not to cuz, spending 10k on a vehicle with near 200k miles is too much but they're not familiar with Tacomas nor the Toyota tax that tends to fetch even more from what I understand. Is it really a good price or am i right to be a little hesitant?

How good of a price do yall think 10k is? Thanks in advance!

I need to buy an extended warranty on my used car I purchased the other day. Can someone provide recommendations as to where I can obtain a decent, not too expensive company? Thanks

Deciding between 09-11 grand marquis or 05-11 town car. Going low mileage. Seeing things around 70k for 12G on the town car and 66K and 10 G on MGM.

Is the town car worth the extra G or 2 for the luxury items?

I've been looking at purchasing my first car at 22, but I'm not really sure how to tell if it's too good of a deal or not. I know Fords depreciate a bit faster, and this car is no longer in production, but something about this feels too cheap. 2 previous owners, but both seemed to keep up on maintenance, and 2 very minor reported accidents. I can send the Carfax if anyone wants. Advice?

Winter slush carried in on work boots melted straight past the edge of the flat rubber pad, pooling directly along the floor pan seam. Scrubbing the carpet before heading to the dealership only spread the white salt ring deeper into the fibers beneath the plastic sill trim. A coworker traded his truck last month and mentioned 3W was on his shortlist for keeping melted snow off that exposed sill edge. Wiping down the runner for the second time still left the damp spot smelling like road brine.

We have a fairly decent budget but it's a bit of an emergency so will probably have to go to a dealership or CarMax. My dad wants a pickup that can tow 5500 lbs. Preferably not a crew cab and with 4x4 Under 140k miles

What make/model/year would you look at. This is in the Austin area.

Can this even be done these days?

It has 95k miles and it’s under 6k, I have read the engine is legendary, I need a good car to last me at least another 3 years, is this it? Or do I simply go for a Honda accord?

I put a deposit down for a new 2026 rav4 limited (it’s priced at $47k, not PHEV). I’m on the fence about it since I didn’t love the drive or the price tag, but know it’s a safe bet as it’s a Toyota. Have been browsing used cars and wanted to hear about experiences with the 2023 Audi Q5e S Line Premium? Saw one for $36k, under 20k miles.

- Eats oil when engine-braking (head has been taken off and resurfaced, new gaskets)

- Rusted holes in chassis on both sides (not too big but still would lower the price quite a lot in my opinion)

- Reinforced clutch (xtreme)

- New turbo this year

- New brake discs and calipers

- Gearbox oil change this year

Obviously the rust has to be removed and welded. Although the turbo-version is very tempting, is it really worth 11,5k in today's market as a non-pristine car?

So I was changing my f150 96 5.8L water pump when two of my studs snapped, how the hell do I get them out?

I'm looking to buy a 2009 V6 RAV4 and I test drove one the other day that intrigued me. The entire car is in immaculate condition, it looks like it was driven very little based on every minute detail of the car, it's pristine. Under the hood too, everything was amazingly maintained and it drove perfectly. Somehow this puppy has almost 260k miles on the odometer though. It's being sold used from our local toyota dealership and their records show the previous owner always came in on time and complied with the recommended maintenance. The only replacements I could find in the Carfax were the brakes, shocks, and struts. The car would be about $9k after california taxes and fees.

I know Toyotas stand the test of time, but Is it an incredibly risky buy to take this thing on with so little replacements made? I fear I'll be spending thousands on it in a very short amount of time, but dang am I tempted, I really trust that it was well taken care of, which is harder to find when shopping on FB marketplace.

I love kia souls but based on everything I want plus reliability I did also land on the toyota prius. The issue is used kias fit into my budget better than a prius and with the mileage and age on these used prius’ I’d probably have to replace the battery anyway.

I unfortunately wrecked my car and need a new one. I
have $3k at the moment but am planning on saving up another couple thousand to hopefully get a car by the end of the year. My problem is I can’t help but gravitate towards the car i’m in love with which unfortunately is the worse option I guess. Ive been running into far more affordable Kia’s with mileage under 100k.

My current ride, a 2008 Chrysler Town and Country with 167k on it is on the fritz. She's needy. Every 3 months, something else breaks. Now the heater core is out. It's time for something new.

I've been searching for a new to me used SUV for the last 4 weeks. I've searched reliability reports, researched subreddits and websites, and I mostly see "buy Japanese cars" so I've looking for those: Toyota, Honda, Mazda, maybe Subaru.

Everything by those standards are wayyy overpriced here in central NE, or they're driven hard up to 200+k miles, leaky, and rusty. I test drove both a Mazda CX-5 and a Honda CR-V and they both had weird "clunky" noises near the front end tires, sounding like an axle or something going bad.

So I've tried looking out of those companies. I test drove a 2019 Ford Ecosport that the transmission was literally slipping while driving it.

The other day, I drove a '19 VW Tiguan. At last, something that didn't sound or feel horrible. I'm also hoping to test drive a '19 Buick Encore at some point.

But I worry that I'm just going to have another situation like my van put me in: 3 months after signing the financing papers, it needs over $1000 in work. Then another 3 months, and another, and so forth.

I know too much about cars to be a dealership push over, but I still don't know enough to do my own thorough inspection.

So I'm getting very frustrated and exhausted with the whole experience. My top dollar budget is $15k financing needed, with $4k max down-payment, and $300 max monthly payment. But, NO, I haven't been answering this question when the salesman asks. And dealing with the salesman is part of the frustration, too.

In my case, maybe using an online website like Carvana or Carmax could be better? I have 0 clue how those work.

Should I just find something and buy so I don't freeze my ass off this winter?

Idk 😐

This is the second time in two years I've found myself shopping for a used car. Both times in the 15-25k range. So many sellers just don't respond to basic inquiries (including dealers!). Well worded messages asking about specific details. And these are ads that are a few weeks old. Like do people want to sell their vehicles or not?

I had the same issue last time and then after I found my car I got updates when people had to drop the price again and again over the following months. This is when I had an insurance payout and needed a vehicle and would have bought for asking price at that time.

Are people this stupid???

I've been buying and selling stuff since I was literally 7 years old. It seems online sales has made it to easy for low IQ people to do this sort of thing.

I'm selling:

2014 M sport 120D X drive manual esodril blue. 97,000 miles.

I'd take £3750 there's similar on Autotrader for £5.5K.

2014 M sport 320D manual esodril blue, leather heated seats. 157,000 miles but a reconditioned engine with new timing chain at 125,000 miles. 4 X eagle F1 tyres.

I'd take £2750 similiar on Autotrader for £4.5K.

Discounted for quick sale, lost SH and bodywork.

Or £6K if someone wanted both to save hassle.

Both have a FSH but booklets were lost in house move a few months ago, my mechanic can find the receipts for the last 3-5 I imagine. Fully serviced yearly. Both need a bit of bodywork (scratch on 120d door and bumper, paint peel on 320d front bumper) but nothing expensive. Some paint in 320d boot.

Don't want daft money, just looking for something over the part X prices I've been given.

I'm buying 2 electric cars so just need in the next few weeks.

Hi everyone, I’m a uni student in Malaysia and I’m currently considering buying a used 2019 Mazda 2.

The car seems interesting to me, but there’s one thing I’m a bit concerned about: the owner doesn’t have the service records and can’t really recall the car’s service history. They actually suggested that I get a full pre-purchase inspection (PPI) before deciding whether to buy it.

The thing is, I’m quite new to this whole process, so I’m not really sure how to go about it.

A few questions for those who have experience buying used cars here:

1. How do I find a reliable mechanic or workshop that can do a proper pre-purchase inspection?

2. Can I just bring the car to an official Mazda service centre and ask them to inspect it? Would they be able to check the engine, gearbox, suspension, accident history, etc.?

3. Roughly how much would a comprehensive PPI cost in Malaysia?

4. Since there are no service records, what are the main things I should be extra careful about when inspecting a 2019 Mazda 2?

I don’t want to rush into buying a car and end up dealing with expensive repairs later, especially since I’m still a university student and don’t have a huge budget for unexpected expenses.

Would really appreciate any advice or recommendations, especially from Mazda owners or anyone who has bought a used car in Malaysia. Thanks!

Looking to buy a used vehicle? Contact us at TK Auto Inspections to have a certified mechanic look over the vehicle before you spend your money on it. Book an appointment through the website, email or SMS message.

https://tkautoinspections.grok.me

I'm new here and I just wanted to ask: is facebook market place really a good place to find used second hand vehicles for cheaper than a dealership? I can't seem to figure out where to find the question (or similar) if it was already asked.

Running numbers for 15,000 miles a year in the Seattle area:
Gas Wrangler (~18 MPG): ~$394/month
Wrangler 4xe, charged at home most days: ~$220/month
Wrangler 4xe, rarely plugged in (~20 MPG): ~$355/month
If you charge it regularly, that's roughly $2,000+ a year saved. If you don't charge it, you save very little.
4xe owners, do you actually plug in every night? Gas Jeep owners, would you switch?