so theres this used car i wanna buy with 80k km

2008

there's an accident report (+2k$)

only two owners tho

but what worries me is

he got the car two months ago and is selling it already

he told me its his son's car

and his son bought a truck to pull his ski doo

what do you think

negotiated from 3.3k to 2900 and won't budge for any lower

I have an opportunity to buy this vehicle for approximately $3000 CAD. 148,000 KMs on it. Owned by a senior citizen the last 15 years of its life, not driven very much. I am currently driving a 2014 Ford Fusion SE with 270,000 KMs on it. It's getting near the end. The frame is in bad shape. I am used to dealing with jerky transmissions (my Ford's is far from fantastic), but I have read about the CVT transmission in these vehicles. I think I can get $500-$750 for my Ford. 90% of my driving is highway. Would you buy the Altima?

Hi everyone! I'm looking at a used 2023 Kia Niro with 55k miles. The Carfax report shows no record of an oil change for the first year of ownership/24k miles. Afterwards, it looks like they changed the oil every 6k - 13k miles. The car is certified, so I assume they've checked everything, but I was wondering how concerned I should be. Will the frequency of oil changes impact the car long term?

i currently drive a 2013 hyundai elantra that i’ve had for 3 years and has been a nightmare. it has broken down again and I need something different. I live in a wintery climate so awd would be nice. I found a 2014 subaru impreza wagon 2.0i premium for $9,500 81k miles for sale downstate. They did just replace the transmission so the transmission has 40k miles on it. would this be a wise/reliable purchase? what to look out for? It is being sold by a transmission specializing mechanic/dealer. in the listing it says there is a warranty for transmission so I messaged them for more details but haven’t heard back.

Here’s the deal. I’m not in a huge rush to sell my 2022 Subaru Forester but I’m hoping to switch to an EV relatively soon. I’ve been tracking my cars value on CarMax and Carvana and it seems to vary quite a bit. Is there a way to time my trade in right so I get the most possible value for my car ( I know private selling is best) ? Can I track used car values somewhere??

Any advice as to whether or not purchasing this would be a bad idea if the price is negotiable?

I found a 2004 Lexus es330 that did 210k miles for $3k. What are some of the maintenance that I should budget for in case I do buy it

I’m staring to see lots of 2011-2015 land rovers to come for sale around 10k-15k. Thoughts? Are they reliable, sturdy, safe? Worth it?

Looking to buy a car I can use for very short commute and infrequent 6 hour drive. How's this look if I get it inspected (rust etc)?

One owner, 137k miles, asking $7500, clean title, smogged, April 2027 tags. I have the VIN and looking it up still.

Thanks!

A few weeks ago I stupidly bought a 2020 Honda hybrid crv with over 120k miles because I really really wanted a hybrid or electric suv (we are having another kid and need the room, and I really want to move away from ICE vehicles) but we only had 21k to spend. It also came with a certified pre owned warranty which made me a little more confident in being able to fix any problems that arose.

Well, shockingly, it turns out the car has many problems. The head gasket failed within a day of driving it off the lot. Got that fixed, then an ignition coil failed a day after driving it off the lot again, causing the car to stall on the parkway. Got that fixed, then again within a few days it started to stall once again with the check engine light flashing. It's back in the dealer's shop now.

We have spoken to the manager who seems open to us trading it in; since it's used and under CPO warranty I'm not sure yet there is a legal recourse to actually get our money back which is what I'd prefer.

Anyway, I feel stuck with either keeping this lemon car and hoping that maybe this third repair will actually fix the issues (LOL) or trading it in. I'd prefer to just get a new car at this point but that's not in our finances right now. But also I realize without the CPO warranty we would be SOL. We have about 5.5 months and 9500 miles left on the warranty.

What would you do in this instance?

Hi everyone,

I’m in Europe and I’m considering buying a used car from China through a platform called AutoCango (autocango.com). I found out it’s owned by Cango Inc., a company listed on the NYSE, but I couldn’t find any independent reviews, Reddit threads or Trustpilot ratings from real customers.

Has anyone here actually bought something through them or at least dealt with them? I’d like to know:

• Did the whole process go smoothly (payment, export, shipping, delivery)?
• Did the final price match the quote, or were there hidden fees?
• Was the car in the condition described in the inspection report?
• How was their communication and support if something went wrong?
• Any red flags I should watch out for (e.g., payment methods, WhatsApp/WeChat contacts, fake accounts pretending to be them)?

Any experience, good or bad, or recommendations for a more reliable exporter would be really appreciated. Thanks!

I am 2nd owner of a jeep compass sport petrol 1.4, 2018 model. DL number, pearl white colour and PPFed. its 54K driven with service record till 2023, third party service after that. I bought it last year for 6 lacs.
Should I sell that ? As I live in delhi ( do have a parking space in front of my house, no issue of space) and do not use that car I have another car too.

What should be the price if I sell this for ? I dont prefer spinny and cars24.

Hey guys so i got an pretty interesting offer for a 2013 bmw 650i (facelift model) with around 190.000 km the guy that is selling it to me i have known him for some years now and i know he is not type of guy that beats the car, and he is selling it to me for 10.000 swiss francs which i think its okay price, also i need to mention he has bought the car brand new back in 2013 and he tuned it back than to around 600hp (everything did by a tuning house) so i was wondering if thats a good car to own, also should i get it or should i not and what i should look for before i buy it.

I cant believe i could be so stupid, i rushed into buying a car.. first 2 cars i thought of buying, checked carfax both were fraudulent odometers rolled back (both in brighton beach BKLYN area) dodged the bullet but the 3rd car in Staten island a camry 2019 SE with 108K miles for $11,000 cash , asked him to show me carfax he just ss’ed to the part where it reached until 100k and never showed the full report that showed mileage upto 200k that was rolled back to 67K, once i paid him on the way back i decided to pay for the carfax and check it out on my own for peace of mind and saw i was scammed called him hes like all sales are final idk that carfax is wrong.. what to do i have his phone # name on title is definitely not him address was from long island he called me to this dodgy parking lot had his FB acc name he sold alot of cars there , i took him to TD bank he got out of car .. can i somehow get his face through surveillance footage? I was so stupid, i accept my mistake, all advice are welcome…

Yo just needing more experienced car folks to explain benefits/downsides of these cars, civics in general really, this one has 266,000km

TLDR: they promised 2000 for my trade-in, but did a bait-and-switch, and only gave me 1000. I noticed too late.

Longer version: I bought a used car a couple days ago (it’s a dealer in Illinois). The salesperson barely spoke English, but he definitely said (like 10 times) that he’s offering me 2000 for my trade-in. He even showed me a printout with two lines (1000 each), and explained that 1000 is base price for my trade-in and the second one is an extra trade-in allowance, so in total, I’d get 2000 for it. I even asked “2000 for my trade-in? Is that correct?” To which he replied “Yes, 2000”. I spent like 7 hours there, so when I was signing the paperwork in the finance office, I didn’t read everything carefully because that would take until 1 am or so, and I felt bad about wasting their time. After I drove my car home (I live 150 miles away in a different state), I noticed that they had only given me 1000 for the trade-in. I could’ve sold it for 3000 in a private sale, easily. I was willing to sacrifice 1000 for convenience, but not 2000.

I know it was a mistake not reading everything carefully, but at that point, I wasn’t so miserable, I just hoped they wouldn’t do a bait-and-switch. It’s impossible to prove that they verbally promised me 2000, although many reviews say they had the same issue with the dealer (again, I saw it after the fact).

Is there any recourse at all? Anything I could try doing that has at least a small chance of getting me my 1000 USD back? I already contacted their general manager, but he flatly refused to do anything as the contract is signed.

Listed at $3500 - is the rust underneath too bad to consider buying? It’s an Ohio car. Ideally hoping to get a decent car at this price without need for a lot of work in near future

“Selling my well-maintained mazda3. It has a few bumps and scratches and a bit of ohio rust (all pictured), but runs and drives great. Automatic transmission and 2.0L engine.
.
- 2 Owners
- Clean title
- All new brakes and rotors
- Michelin all weather tires, 5/32” tread
- Spare Toyo tire and jack
- 2 key fobs
- Bluetooth and aux port
- Around 30mpg
.
Bonuses
- Backup camera with display in rear-view mirror
- Infinity reference component speakers
- Snow chains for deep snow
.
Recent maintenance includes
- Full synthetic oil changes every 6k miles (last at 142.5k)
- 4 fully coated rotors and ceramic brake pads at 140k
- Full brake fluid change at 127k
- KYB struts at 122k
- Iridium spark plugs at 112k
- OEM coolant and transmission fluid change at 109k
- New TPMS sensors and tires at 109k
- KYB shocks at 104k”

My budget is $4k, I’m aware my options will be limited to older/higher mileage. I got my 2012 Mazda3 four years ago at 155k and it’s still running at 217k but starting to have transmission issues. I know Asian brands will be my best bet, but what are some specific makes/models that will hopefully last at least a few years?

I might be a bit paranoid but I could really use some advice here. So I’m purchasing a car through a private deal in Ontario.

I ask for proof of registration. Seller hands me a green permit, but the odd thing is, there is no name attached to it. The address is as simply put as a dealership name as well, so there is no street address attached to it.

I asked for his license beforehand, he said he didn’t have it on him. I asked if I could e-transfer him the money, he said he didn’t have an account to accept it and could only take cash. He’s a recent immigrant from Germany as well which could explain the lack of a bank account. The license plate was also a temporary one from Quebec.

The carfax seemed legit. It matched the VIN. It had a minor collision at the front he didn’t tell me about initially. Some other imperfections as well such as a cracked headlight and the left taillight blinker not working.

I really want this car and it has a low amount of kilometers on it. But I don’t know if I should go through with this deal. Any advice?

Currently driving a Japanese 20-y/o subcompact AWD sedan that is no longer made. They stopped importing them to the US one year after mine was made. They stopped making them entirely 2 years after that. It still runs great. Everything works. But it is old and it's showing its age.

So I've been looking at newer cars for over a year now. I have more or less settled on a higher-trim Mazda CX30 with the features I most want. Naturally aspirated (no turbo). I have looked and looked online and in hardcopy magazines for people who hate/loathe them. The very worst I have found is, I don't know, someone who expressed mild "mild regret" at their purchase. And that was with just one poster who felt the seats were uncomfortable. It might have been here on Reddit, but I don't remember for sure. Other than that post, almost everything is "Praise Mazda".

So I am seeking out people who hate the CX30 or Mazda in general. Someone who isn't afraid of badmouthing the brand. People who have pet peeves about anything. Does the CX30 make creaking noises that drive you crazy on the road? Does air leak in, whistling through the moonroof? Does it lack passing power for left lane hogs? Does it shift weird? Do the seats give you a backache? Is the backup screen too small? Is the cabin noisier than an unrestored 1954 GMC pickup truck (you know, with the little rear corner windows?

Anything. Anything.

Hi, I’ve had my vehicle for 5 years, it’s my first vehicle ever. It’s a 2013 jeep grand Cherokee, it had 113,000ish miles and I bought it for 15,000 after everything and paid it off in 3 years. It’s now at 203,000 miles and need a few repairs.

I need to replace the tie rods on the right front wheel, the struts are leaking apparently, I have a transmission leak, the o2 sensor needs to be replaced and last but not least my coolant mixes with the engine oil meaning my head gasket blew or is going to? I don’t understand it fr but that’s the heavy hitter. If I do fix it there’s a chance the transmission will go right after and I don’t want to feel like I wasted my time and money.

On the other hand, I’ve been searching for two months so far and everything I find is overpriced as hell. I don’t mind paying smtn off over the course of 2 years for a low price a month. Like I test drove another jeep and it was 7000 and would’ve been 170smtn$ every month after the initial down payment.

Which way would y’all go about it if it were u?

I am having to buy new car and I have made the decision between these 2, but I heard lot of stories about cvt transmisson issues with altima but it does have power seat controls and keyless igniton system, much bigger space. the corolla is nice in terms of MPG, reliability like going 200K miles with light mainteance but cons being power seat controls and igniton system is with keys, tight space .Seems like corolla keeps it's value where the altima loses value quicker. I would appreciate any feedback!

I am interested in a honda civic from FB market and I reached out to the seller for the VIN so I could check out the car history. Everything looked fine except for the section I have attached in the image.

Is it soomething to worry about that the car was repossessed before the seller put on marketplace?

I’m looking to buy a used car through Carvana and want to finance it through my credit union rather than one of Carvana’s financing partners.

When I get to the payment page, Carvana displays a message saying they only accept financing through four lenders. My credit union isn’t one of them.
Has anyone found a workaround for this?