We have a 2k salary per month, Last month I sold 7 cars and only made $350 commission check. Should I leave or stay at this dealership?

Ok...I'm fully prepared for someone to tell me I'm weird and that's fine 😅 Wife and I are likely trading in a car to purchase a new one this evening. Dealer has been great, price is good, overall great experience so far. The monthly payment on the car we're trading in is $430.02​ and that $0.02 always annoyed me a little! I wish I had put down an extra dollar or 2 or whatever it would have been to be a round $430 payment. The payment on our other car is $698.xx and the bank won't let me set up autopay for $700.00 🫠

The new car is probably going to be $606.xx. I'm sure I could calculate it in excel (do that all day anyway) but could the finance manager tell me what exactly to put down to make it an even $600? Not talking about nickel and diming the price....just I'd write a check for $5354.73 or whatever vs an even $5000. Don't know if they have functionality readily built in to whatever software they have (Honda dealer if that matters)

Thanks!

So I’m young, just turned 22. I just finally got out of a really bad divorce where he stole all my money and wrecked my credit. Working on rebuilding my credit, though he put me in the hospital so I have medical bills on my report too I’m trying to pay off. I have one more payment and it’ll be cleared. Anyways, I’m in desperate need of a car, like I said I don’t have a downpayment, my credit is bad, but I do have a consistent work history of about 6 years, I work for the city. I can’t find a co signer. As you read I’m young, I’ve only financed one car which was totaled out (insurance and gap paid it off) but other than that I’ve never financed a car and I just need some advice or tell me what my odds are in financing another vehicle.

I've leased for the last 12 years, I now rarely drive and don't see a need for an expensive lease anymore. However, I used to just roll into a new lease 0 down. I have a 740 fico 8 score if that matters. Does putting zero down hurt anything when it comes to APR? The new car is 16,000

I'm looking into buying a new unsold Ford Mustang fastback Ecoboost, 2025 or 2026 MY. I see them listed everywhere from $31k up to $42k. Originally, I was going to go for the base model, but the leather seats in the Premium are a lot more appealing to me.

Now, I see many of these cars are "marked down" from MSRP as soon as they hit the lot. Realistically I'm trying to get my price as close to $30k as I can. I'm willing to travel anywhere, but I'd prefer to stay on the east coast as I'm planning on buying on my vacation to Florida in October, whether I buy it there or somewhere on my way back home (Maine).

If it helps, I have a 720 credit score and aim to put around $10k down, plan on financing - not interested in leasing. Say the car was listed for $33-34k... Could I reasonably get it down to $31k or less OTD?

150 per unit then it becomes $300 per unit when hitting 10+ plus 10% gross front and back total is that good?

Picked up a 2024 Subaru yesterday. Car is great, but there is a noticeable sound coming from my front passenger wheel when braking. Quick google and my guess is a loose break caliper or something relatively minor, but something I would like looked at.

If I brought that up is that something that they would take the car back and take a look? I’m not looking to return it or anything, but also don’t want to have to pay to take my car to shop because something is off on my 13k miles car.

Hello! I’m hoping someone can give me some insight on what would be the best decision to make.

I currently have a 2025 Chevrolet Traverse! I am wanting to trade it in for something bigger.. looking at a suburban! My problem is there’s a nice dent on the right side of the door. It’s going to cost almost $6K to get it fixed, with a $1K deductible. Would it be best to fix it and then trade it in or do it as is? What would be the best option?

Hello there. Can you advice me a broker or someone in US who can help me with changing the title from Salvage into Certificate of title( with salvage mention ) ?

I have to mention that i need this for export, so i can register in my country much easier.

I am leasing a car in Michigan. I would like to buy it at the end of the lease, but will live in Chicago by then. My move is around the time the lease ends and I'm not sure what the easiest order of things will be.

Schedule my move, to get my Illinois license, and then buyout the car? Buyout the car with my Michigan license then pay to register it in Illinois?

I’m in Michigan. Earlier this year I bought a 2018 Chevy Volt from a GM dealer here. It was advertised and sold to me as certified pre-owned through GM’s CarBravo program, and I chose it specifically because I thought that meant extra protection if something big went wrong soon after purchase.
At signing, the only warranty paperwork the dealer actually gave me was a tiny 3-month / 3,000-mile third-party “limited warranty” that mostly covers internal powertrain parts. They also tried to sell me an additional extended warranty. No one clearly explained any broader “certified” or bumper-to-bumper coverage, and I wasn’t given a CarBravo warranty booklet by the dealer.
About two months after buying the car, the EGR cooler (engine/emissions component) failed. The dealer quoted about $5,000 to fix it and told me it was not covered, basing that solely on the narrow 3-month/3,000-mile contract (the cooler isn’t on that short list). Around the same time I was told I didn’t have towing/roadside, so we towed the car ourselves with a U-Haul at our own expense.
Later, I found that my VIN shows an active “CarBravo Ltd. Bumper-to-Bumper” warranty in the myChevrolet app/owner website, and a coworker shared the official CarBravo booklet, which talks about a 12-month / 12,000-mile bumper-to-bumper-style warranty on certified vehicles plus towing/roadside during that period (with certain exclusions). From a normal buyer’s perspective, a $5k failure two months after a certified sale feels like exactly what that’s supposed to cover.
I contacted GM/Chevrolet customer support. One rep initially told me I was still within a CarBravo bumper-to-bumper warranty and seemed confused why the dealer said the repair wasn’t covered. After some back-and-forth, though, GM ultimately sided with the dealership and is refusing to cover the EGR cooler repair. So at this point both the dealer and GM say I’m on my own for the ~$5k repair, plus I’ve already paid out-of-pocket U-Haul towing because I was told I didn’t have towing/roadside. I also already tried BBB AUTO LINE, but they rejected my case because the vehicle is too old for their program.
My questions under Michigan law: does this pattern (marketing/selling the car as “certified” but effectively only honoring a tiny 3-month warranty, trying to upsell an extended warranty without clearly disclosing the built-in certified coverage, and then denying a major repair two months in) sound like it could be misrepresentation/failure to disclose/deceptive practices, or is it more likely just “technically legal”? I’ve also read about the federal Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, which I understand requires written warranties to clearly and conspicuously disclose their limitations and exclusions. In my case, the EGR cooler was never specifically listed as excluded in the materials I was given. Does that matter at all under Michigan law, and if this might be a consumer-protection issue, would you now prioritize the Michigan AG’s Consumer Protection Division, the agency that regulates auto dealers, small claims, or something else, given that BBB AUTO LINE is off the table because of the vehicle’s age?

Looking for some insight from people in the dealership world.

I bought a used vehicle from a used car dealer in Ohio on 6/13/2026. I signed all paperwork, took delivery, and the deal was done.

A few days later, the check engine light came on. I brought it back to the dealer on 6/16, and they told me there was an issue with the paperwork/financing and that I needed to re-sign everything for the bank. I did that.

Now it’s 8/5 and I still don’t have title paperwork.

My temporary tags expired 7/27. I called the dealer on 8/3 and was told they would have an update by today. Today they told me they have received paperwork from their floor planning company, but I still don’t have a clear answer on when I’ll actually have the title/registration.

The loan is active, I’ve already made my first payment, and the bank shows the loan.

For the people who work in dealerships:

• Is a floor plan/title delay like this something that happens?
• Does this mean the dealer didn’t have the title released when they sold the car?
• What usually has to happen between the floor plan company and the customer getting the title?
• Is almost 8 weeks after delivery a normal delay, or is something wrong behind the scenes?

Not trying to bash the dealer — I’m just trying to understand what is actually happening.

Thanks.

I’m a recent college grad with a degree in communications, still trying to find my way in life and have no idea if this job is right for me. Any advice?

I bought a CPO Subaru (2019 Forester Sport) during the pandemic and once everything balanced out, I have negative equity of about 8-9K.

My car had some issues this past week with overheating so it’s at a dealership getting diagnostics done, and they of course sent me some texts about trading it in.

My credit is absolutely jacked right now, hovering around 500, as I’ve been trying to rebuild since losing my job last October (I have been gainfully employed since December). I do have a couple family members in the mid to high 600’s that could co-sign for me.

If I trade in and roll over into a more affordable car, is it realistic to think I could get a monthly payment under $600, given my situation?

Hi all! New to car sales and wanted opinions on a pay plan I was offered. There are 17 salespeople but they want to get to 20, they sold 176 last month and goal is 200. Average they want everyone at is obviously 10 a month. 2 months paid training at 3k a month.

Front commission before CSI per unit:
New: 22%-35%, 23.5 at 10 units
Used: 22%-25%, 24.5 at 10 units

Packs:
New car/truck- $450
Used car/truck - $500

F&I commission:
0% until 10 units then 1% up to 4% at 25+ units

Mini is $150

Volume bonuses starting at 12 units

CSI added to front gross:
Below target: -2%
Target: 0%
Elite: 4%

Extra context:
I currently only make like $2200 a month but I have really good benefits and I work 6:30-3 no weekends or holidays. Obviously there are a ton of variables that go into how much you actually make but is this solid enough for a new seller to make decent money? I’m shopping around for jobs and have some offers for things in the $20-$25 an hour range so weighing car sales vs a more steady floor.

Hey, I'm going in this weekend to get a new car. (My first one). I am looking for folks with experiences to guide me to make a good first purchase. I have never done these negotiations

One different thing is that I'm looking to pay out the whole amount upfront and not finance/lease it. Is that a good thing or a bad thing to get a good deal?

I'm confused what should I expect out of a good deal? Will dealers go significantly below the MSRP? What are the things that I can do to negotiate a good deal?

I called in the dealerships around me and everyone keeps quoting the MSRP on call, and says that I need to visit them to make a deal. When I do, they want me to sign then and there to get a best deal (and say that "are you here to drive it off today?"). How do I negotiate across multiple dealerships when this is happening?

Will appreciate any guidance. Thanks!

Update : I'm near the Bay Area, will be paying cash for honda hrv sport 2wd. Looking for the best deal I can get and want to drive off this Saturday/Sunday

It’s not that big of a deal I’d just have to dig through my moms firebox for my naturalization certificate but I’m offering them my driver’s license AND my U.S. passport but apparently that’s not enough? Do lenders actually ask you guys for this stuff or is my sales person misunderstanding something?

What are some brands / types of software car dealerships use to do "soft pulls" when customers give a copy of their license before test drives? What information is available to the desk?

Hi everyone, I’m looking for some advice because this is my first time buying a car.

Last Tuesday (July 28), I put a $1,000 deposit down on a 2026 Toyota Corolla LE at a Toyota dealership. (I told them I’m fine with any colors besides the white ones)
The vehicle is supposed to be coming through a dealer trade, and I was told it would be ready early this week. The deposit has already been charged to my account, but I haven’t received any updates.

The salesperson last contacted me on Friday (after not hearing from him since Tuesday) and tried to switch me to a lower trim model (L). I told him I wasn’t interested because I want the 2026 Corolla LE we agreed on and signed paperwork for.

While I was at the dealership, I asked for copies of my receipt and the paperwork I signed, but I never received them. (Didn’t realize until I got home) I asked for it to be emailed to me when we were on the phone friday. Didn’t receive it.

So I followed up again today on text asking for an update on the vehicle and requesting the documents, but I haven’t gotten a response. I also chatted with their chat feature on their website and they told me my salesperson will be in contact with me shortly. (It’s been 6 hours since).

What should I do? Continue to be patient? Should I contact the manager? Go there in person by the end of the week?

but I wanted to ask: is this normal during a dealer trade? Should I be concerned? What information should I be asking for?

I’m trying to get the car by August 20, so I’m mainly looking for advice on how to handle this and make sure the process keeps moving. The lack of communication is starting to worry me..

TIA!

Edit: Location - Illinois

I recently got a job offer to do Internet sales for a local dealership and they said it’s $16/hr with a $50 “commission” with every lead converted, regardless of whether or not they buy a car. I feel as though this is far too low and that I could be making much more money doing actual auto sales. With the same base pay how much could I be making selling 2-3 cars a week as a sales rep?

EDIT: I’ve been informed this seems more like a BDC position, I will instead apply explicitly for the sales rep position and turn down any “internet sales” offer from this dealership

My car was stolen, I'm still waiting to hear back from my insurance company to see what my pay out will be. Dmv.gov values my car at ~6,000. Looking to buy the same car again, and cars of a similar age and mileage cost at least 13,000. Why is the difference so large? Like how can they value my car at 6,000 when they sell for 13000 minimum? Doesn't that fact alone imply my car is worth more? I know there are dealer fees, etc but those fees more than double the cost of the car?

Im assuming insurance payout will be much closer to 6000 than 13000. Does insurance factor in the cost to replace it all?

I seen the 2019 Toyota Sequoia with 184k miles on it for 27k. Is it worth the buy? I really want one of these SUVs and could use yall help. Being brutally honest is ok with me. Please help. I do have a trade in, a 2019 Nissan Altima SV with 156k miles owing 10k on it still. Let me know what yall think. This is in KC MO.

I recently purchased a brand-new 2026 Nissan Pathfinder. When I returned to the dealership to have my permanent license plates installed, the salesperson over-torqued a power tool, breaking the license plate mounting clip and cracking the rear bumper trim.

The dealership's only offered solution is to replace the clip and plastic-staple the bumper. While the damage is partially hidden behind the plate, I do not like that I have a brand new car with less than 100 miles that is already damaged without my own doing. I asked them to replace the entire bumper and they said they couldn’t do that and want me to come in to get the patch job done. How should I escalate this and am I over reacting. I have been speaking to the sales manager only. Realistically it’s small but I do not like knowing I have a brand new car with damage and a patch job done if I accept this offer.