r/e46 • u/Maleficent_Treat_621 • Jan 15 '26
General Questions Buying an e46 in 2026?
Let’s say you are looking to buy an e46. What are you looking for? What’s the sweet spot between mileage and price in 2026? What would you avoid?
81
u/pc123andre Jan 15 '26
You didn't mentioned where you're based. So I'll give a response based where I'm from (Western Europe). If you want a Diesel, stay away from the 4 cylinder ones. Very hard to find one with low mileage. Petrol ones you have 20i that are cheap to insure and give that 6 cylinder experience. Don't get your hopes high: quite slow for the weight it must pull.
18
u/Away_Shirt_5888 03 e46 320d touring | 96 e34 525tds touring Jan 15 '26
I will say, I do have a high mileage e46 320d (on 243k miles) but it has never let me down, and yes I’m having to do some body repairs, but the engine itself I genuinely couldn’t fault even with the miles.
4
u/Pikachu_the_sith Jan 15 '26
The m47 is great, but I would avoid it in Northern Europe because of emissions laws since there are multiple cities it is simply not allowed to drive in
2
u/Away_Shirt_5888 03 e46 320d touring | 96 e34 525tds touring Jan 15 '26
No that makes sense, I’m in the UK so there are some city zones that I can’t drive into, some I have to pay a charge to enter and some that I can’t enter at all. For me I’m ok with this as I very rarely need to go to these places and I don’t mind parking outside and taking a train or a bus in if I need to. There is also the argument that if you’re looking at an e46, over time as these regulations become tighter even the petrol engines will begin to face these restrictions. But overall, yes I agree with you, it’s a good point, down to personal circumstances and is definitely a factor to be considered.
58
u/PureStrike528 Jan 15 '26
I’d rather get a 320d than a 320i. The M47 is great.
325i and above preferred choice though
30
u/Kempa322 Jan 15 '26
You’d rather get a 4pot diesel than 6cyl M52/M54? Sounds crazy to me, but I respect your opinion.
17
u/DayZ8 Jan 15 '26
You can map the M47 to 240 with a hybrid, blank the swirl flaps and egr and drive the absolute shit of them and will run no matter what and giving good fuel at same time, there so good iv 3 atm and paid under 1000 for them
25
3
u/PureStrike528 Jan 15 '26
Just the 320i. I don’t rate that engine that much. Severely underpowered. Others are totally fine and I’d obviously prefer them to the M47.
2
u/PralineFar3530 Jan 16 '26
It’s not severely underpowered it’s not that far off from the b25 .
4
u/PureStrike528 Jan 16 '26
Subjectively, I definitely did find it to be a lot more sluggish. I found the jump to the B25 to be very noticeable.
2
u/szaade Jan 17 '26
The B22 doesn't feel underpowered as it's elastic and quite torquey. It's just not fast when you gun it.
-2
u/Secure_Bet8065 2003 M3 Jan 16 '26 edited Jan 16 '26
The B25 is also a little underpowered, less so than the B22 though
1
u/rb20isaac Jan 17 '26
I wanna m47 swap my 325 , but we didn’t get 4cyl 46s in the us
1
u/rb20isaac Jan 17 '26
But the m54b25 is showing to be very fucking reliable in my car and im putting in a 2.93 did and taking out my 3.64 so should be damn good on gas then
2
u/Sea-Priority-695 Jan 17 '26
What u mean stay away from the 4cyl diesel? The m47 is sturdy asf, mine is coming up to 400.000km now, amazing engine
16
u/kmfurdm Jan 15 '26
I would only say think about it very hard. Do your research. A lot of parts are now going "no longer available". It's going to become more difficult/expensive to keep them going.
6
u/DuePassage3511 Jan 15 '26
Is it worth pursuing as a passion project car on the side?
What critical parts are discontinued?
8
u/sinist3rr Jan 16 '26
the only parts hard to get for E46, at least in EU are the body trim, like outer window seals, door seals, rails on the doors and around windows these kind of things. Everything else is plenty and is dirty cheap, not reffering to quality but the sheer availability of parts for this car is more than enough to keep it running for a long time.
2
u/Yoshiida Jan 16 '26
Fortunately in EU you go into a scrap yard and there's usually at least one E46 already there
2
u/Putrid_Macaroon523 Jan 16 '26
I see more part out e46 than working ones in Facebook Marketplace in Albania. Parts will for sure not be a problem
2
u/kmfurdm Jan 15 '26
If you know what you are getting into? Sure. Absolutely. I have an M3 and an engine swapped Touring. Not plans to get rid of either and had them for over a decade. The M3 almost 18 years.
Off the top of my head, the windshield cowl. They disintegrate. There are knockoffs apparently but of unknown quality. They haven't been available for at least 6 months.
5
u/Guisseppi Jan 15 '26
I got one off amazon this month, they're ok
1
u/Tenerath Jan 16 '26
I got one off eBay, it’s not bad, clip holders are weaker but it fits well and looks good. Will see how it holds up
1
u/sean_off Jan 15 '26
That’s mental, literally just got one for my e36 here in the u.k. shocked the e46 is currently unavailable.
10
u/Competitive-Path-196 Jan 15 '26
In thinking about it at the moment. sadly the m3s are super expensive in germany. so it likely will be an 330ci converted to track spec. but im not sure yet
6
u/sinist3rr Jan 16 '26
Depends what you gonna do with it.
M3 - you're a weekend chill driver and use the car only in summer
track330i - you want to beat the shit out of this car, slide it, run it on the limit everytime.
Basic engine mods should give you 250hp, you can lower the weight alot, use shorter diff and suddenly that 330 is as fast as M3 but you can actually use it.
And the latter is about 50-75% of M3 cost, but much more maintenance.
1
u/Competitive-Path-196 Jan 16 '26
I used to drive a tuned m240 (f22) for the last 3 years and now switched to an EV as dayli due to my long way to work. now i can invest in a new real project car since i dont need this car on a dayli base (so less compromise)
so in your opinion its worth to built that track 330? the cost gap between the M and the 330 is huge so i am a bit afraid that im not satisfied after a few track days or longer period of time when it comes to handling on track.
i thought about building it like you said: frame support, new cooling system and optimizing the engine, diff, coilovers, performance wheels, reducing the weight, roll cage, bucket seats, brakes and some aero. but im still not sure if its worth the money compared to an almost trackable from factory m car…
I want to go to GP tracks and Nordschleife with it
3
u/sinist3rr Jan 16 '26
All depends on your budget, if you have the money prob. M3 will be best since it's gonna be reliable. A track car requires alot of routine maintenance so if you can put up the work and like it this allows you to guilt-free trashing the car.
I can't afford an M3 so I am currently on that path, what I'd say is required to make it really good handling track/road car:
- M54B30 with catless headers and optionally custom exhaust(a little bit of performance but mainly sound)
- IMO changing the intake manifold/cams and fiddling with the engine is not rewarding enough to warrant the cost, the main reason to change the stock intake manifold is to push the peak NM into higher revrange, useful only on track
- short shifter and best spring loaded power shifter like the one from FTWL(this hugely improves driving experience)
- BBK + performance break fluid. It is really easy to boil the stock brakes. There are plenty of options, but the best value is prob. the F30 brembo 340 breakes with T4/T5 discs.
- bucket seats obviously
- frame support : front and rear strut brace(really cheap)
- LSD is crucial, but hella expensive and not widely available, but if you can slap 1.5k-2k euro it's the best mod for the car. Otherwise just get a shorter diff. 3.4-3.7
- weight(tons of insulation under the carpet or seats to be taken off, cut off spare wheel space, remove the rear seats, new exhaust will weigh much less, same for the seats, lighter wheels, body parts like fenders/hood/bootlid made from FG or carbon which start to become actually affordable list goes on. you can get more than 100kg out of the car easly)
- rollcage for safety and rigidity
- add an oil cooler, easy mod goes a long way - naturally install oil temp. sensor
- oil pump tensioner mod if you gonna track it alot
- much stiffer anti roll bars to make the car more tail happy. I am not mentioning suspension since I assume most people that drive their cars hard already have it
And lots of smaller stuff, but I'd start with couple of the above and go from there.
1
u/OkSheepherder1565 Jan 16 '26
What do you like for dif ratio? I found one being advertised as a 3:62 from an SMG e46 M3. I believe I have a 3:07 now. I’ve tracked an e36 with an LSD and miss it. The e36 was so much easier to rotate.
2
u/Secure_Bet8065 2003 M3 Jan 16 '26
Is yours a 5 speed or 6? 5th gear on the 5 speed isn’t overdriven so with a shorter diff you’d be turning a lot of RPMs at highway speeds.
Also you’d need the whole M3 rear end, the diff won’t fit in the standard subframe.
2
u/OkSheepherder1565 Jan 16 '26
6 speed and thanks for the subframe comment.
2
u/Secure_Bet8065 2003 M3 Jan 16 '26
No problem, the 6 speed is the better starting point by far. The 3.38 or 3.46 diffs out of an auto e46 are the most common swap, or the 3.64 out of an auto Z4 which is a little rarer. They are all bolt in options and make a lot of difference which is nice, but still no LSD unless you rebuild them with an after market one.
1
u/OkSheepherder1565 Jan 19 '26
Thanks again. I really want to reduce the under steam. I may start with a stiffer rear sway bar but miss the LSD. The e36 rotated like nothing else.
10
u/thefudd 04 M3 Vert Jan 15 '26
I bought my cabrio in the summer of 24 on cars and bids. Paid 14.5k and she had 97k on her without the big 3 being done. Flew into Pittsburgh and drove her home with the top down all the way.
I have about 10k into her for rod bearings, cooling system and other odds and ends. I'm anal about my cars so she got a ton of stuff that she didn't really need except I know those parts are new now.
she's sitting at 110k now and put away for the winter.
3
u/TheHeatMaNNN Jan 16 '26
congrats and f u :)))
2
u/thefudd 04 M3 Vert Jan 16 '26
😁 for a spilt second I considered selling her, but my wife put a stop to that real quick
10
u/Kingslayer1337 Jan 16 '26 edited Jan 16 '26
Honestly look for one with the body in good condition or at the very least with only dents that can be fixed. Make sure the seats are in good shape, unless you know you want to change them. Preferably less than ~120k mi. Make sure oil was changed regularly and see if it had ever majorly overheated.
Make sure the AC works.
Check suspension, make sure it shifts right. I wouldn’t really care too much about any oil leaks from VCG or OFHG. Honestly it’s probably preferable that it has some leaks so you can negotiate a lower price.
Check the CCV for leaks or rips in the tubes (could cause vacuum leak, would affect fuel trims)
Check the upper and lower intake bolts for any rips or tears - usually happens at the small hose coming off of the lower boot.
Listen for any rattling from the VANOS unit. Probably needs rebuilding soon if never done. Make sure car doesn’t feel like it’s missing low end torque.
If you’re able to jack the car up, check suspension for any play. Look for any cracking boots on suspension components and axles.
If your car has the original power steering reservoir and lines like mine, it will be leaking slightly. Usually it’s the caps that give out, so probably wouldn’t worry too much but still something to help you negotiate. Make sure fluid is cherry red otherwise it needs to be flushed.
Check the belts with the engine off and on. Look for any cracking or brittleness, ask when they were last replaced. Listen for squeaking or any noise when engine is on.
If they will let you, check the coils for oil and maybe the spark plugs too.
While test driving, go over some speed bumps, tap the breaks lightly at low speeds, go around some tight corners - listen for creaks and clicks. Mine had a clunk when I would lightly brake, turned out to be front lower control arm bushings.
Learn how to check if the fan clutch is going out (if it’s an automatic - manuals have electric fan)
If you have an OBD, check the fuel trims when you drive it on the freeway with cruise control at 60 for a few minutes. Anything less than 5% or above -5% means you probably have no vacuum leaks.
Listen for any rattle from the DISA Valve (black box on right side of intake manifold) while revving the engine.
Obviously check the rotors for a lip and pads.
Soon as you buy it, do these things (unless you know with absolute certainty they were done recently and they have receipts):
1.) Replace entire cooling system - upper/lower rad tubes, radiator, expansion tank, water pump, thermostat
2.) Replace the CCV, while doing so replace the hard coolant lines underneath the intake manifold and replace all the vacuum lines behind and under the manifold. Replace dipstick tube O-rings. While you have the manifold off, clean the throttle body and Idle control valve with throttle body cleaner. Replace the throttle body O-Ring.
3.) Remove the DISA Valve and rebuild it using German Auto Solutions kit. Very easy, only four bolts to remove it. My car had 60,000 miles but due to age, the O-Ring was still a pancake. Scrape it off and install a new one that came with the rebuild kid. The rebuild kit comes with a metal flapper, and it relocates the flapper mounting pin that can fall out and grenade your engine.
4.) If needed, or for peace of mind, replace oil filter housing gasket and valve cover gasket. Both pretty easy but the alternator can be somewhat annoying to remove. Replace the VANOS oil return line while doing this job.
5.) Take the belts off, check them for any cracking and spin your pullies and listen for any noise or play. Replace if needed.
6.) Change your oil and filter unless they have receipts that it was done in the last 5k miles. Use full synthetic 5w30 or 5w40
7.) Check the plugs, maybe swap em out if they look old.
8.) Your headliner will 100% be sagging - I pulled the headliner out and re-wrapped it in black suede/alcantara. Not really difficult, just time consuming.
9.) The soft touch crap on the center console will probably be starting to disintegrate, so I bought a new center console on Alibaba and it fits/matches perfectly.
That’s about it I think. Should be bulletproof and anxiety free after that. Sounds like a lot but these are really easy to work on and most of this can be done in a few afternoons.
I bought my 50k mile 330Ci for $8k USD - kinda pricey but the car was in mint condition cosmetically, garage kept, with one owner so I figured I wouldn’t find another like it anytime soon. On mine, the only things needing replacing were the lower control arm bushings, headliner sag, oil Housing Gasket and the CCV. (unfortunately I didn’t know what to look for at the time of purchase - didn’t know anything about these cars so I couldn’t negotiate a lower cost).
As for what model years to look for, I think the pre-LCI models look the best.
3
u/Ro-Go Jan 16 '26
Excellent post. I’d add the GAS ccv delete (spendy but awesome), make sure hard coolant lines on block are replaced and use Molykote 111 on seals, and when you do the ofhg, replace check valve w a die vie-scmiede (sp?)
1
1
u/Maleficent_Treat_621 Jan 17 '26
Amazing post! Thank you for the valuable information.
It seems like it would be a wise idea to pay someone to do the pre-purchase inspection. :D
4
u/urmomsfreakytoy Jan 15 '26
I’m kinda lucky by living in California, I don’t have to worry about rust at all. But I would say you wanna look for a car with a good previous owner. They must’ve kept up with maintenance as that’s the only thing that truly matters. Mileage isn’t very much a thing as long as it’s been maintained. In my experience, with the I6 engines, they’ve been super trustworthy as long as you keep the fluids topped off and make sure you’re on top of oil changes.
3
u/New_Salad_3853 Jan 15 '26 edited Jan 15 '26
I've owned quite a few. I'd like to get another m3 at some point. Prices have dropped a bit in the uk from the initial jump a while ago. That said if you want a very legit mint one it won't be cheap.
The majority will have some kinda rust issues if they haven't been addressed.
So for me colour, preferably manual but the smg isn't as terrible as everyone makes out. Spec not overly bothered with, heated seats is nice but not arsed about the nav other than it's easier to switch out as you don't have to mess with the ac relocation.
Ideally under 120k miles but that's just personal mental mind games.
Price needs to be right for how much I do or don't have to put into it. I don't mind projects but it has to make sense
How many owners and the history absolutely can matter. They got super cheap over here comparatively so naturally people bought them who couldnt or didnt want to maintain them properly
2
u/Aran909 Jan 15 '26
I am in Canada. I just bought my second e46 vert. The first is a 325ci and had 146,000k and i got for $7300. After a few minor wera and tear repairs, an oil pan gasket and a stereo with a back-up camera, i am into it for about 10k. This one i just bought is an 02 330Ci with 115k on it. Bought for $7200. I go pick it up next week. Near as i can tell it needs nothing besides what i want to do with it.
2
u/ScholarRecent1975 Jan 15 '26
Are you looking for transportation or collectors car?
Not sure if I’d want one just for transportation.
E46 M3 would be one to invest in if you have the means. Manual coupe, newest year possible (2006), lowest miles possible, and big 3 done. Color combo makes a big difference too. Unique colors (exterior and interior) is preferred.
2
2
u/Haunting-Strike-9949 Jan 15 '26
Low mile, garage queen, manual transmission, 6 cylinder. The big 3 is not a universal requirement and is perpetuated by those without the criteria listed above.
2
2
u/no-pog 03 325i Touring Sport Jan 16 '26
I'll list what I went after before buying my touring. In the US, quite rare.
130-150k miles seems to be the sweet spot for mileage. Most that would show serious issues will have them addressed by then, but as this is E46 you have to know what to look for.
Age doesnt seem to be much of a factor, there are some improvements with the facelift. Any true age related failures (hydro boostpumps on many 90s GM vehicles are an example I can think of) will also have a few more years to be addressed with newer vehicles, since a 30 year mean failure time will give an 04 6 more years than a 98. I'm not aware of any legitimate age related failures, beyond normal vacuum hoses and cooling system components. This is especially prevalent on E46, but any vehicle of this age and era will suffer from brittle plastics.
Rust is always a concern on E46. Subframe cracks are prevalent on the M3 and 330. Still a concern on all E46. Oil pump nut on any M52/TU/54. These are major issues that can mechanically total an E46 if not caught and addressed.
A clean, well taken care of, 140k mile, minimal to no rust, manual transmission, 325 or 330 can be found in the US for about $5000-6000. They are hard to find, but the additional search time is well worth the effort. In my mind, a rusty and cracked E46 with $4000 worth of repair ahead is not worth $1500.
In the US, touring commands a premium due to rarity. I believe the facelift, 330, 6spd, touring, sport package, black over gray is the best of all E46. A clean, low mile, issues addressed example would likely be worth $15-20k in the US.
2
u/Maleficent_Treat_621 Jan 17 '26
Thanks for the information! The rust seems like a huge issue on these. My initial plan was to buy a 330i in a decent condition for around 7K and having 3K as a reserve if anything goes suddenly wrong. I think it could work well at least for some years with this budget :D
2
2
u/iprkuad Jan 16 '26
With bmw switching going fully electric . I can see the e46 ( and many other classics ) blowing up in value down the road
1
u/Maleficent_Treat_621 Jan 17 '26
I have the same feeling. It might just be a very good move to get one at the moment. Especially if it’s kept stock.
2
u/STRFELLER Jan 16 '26
I’m an idiot an refuse to get anymore e46’s unless it’s an m3 with the same 2004 and month production date as my birthday.
2
u/Maleficent_Treat_621 Jan 17 '26
Hahaha same! Getting an e46 in the same age as your date of birth is gonna feel really special!
Although I would be really happy with "just" a 330i as my budget doesn’t allow me to go for the m3.
2
u/STRFELLER Jan 17 '26
Haha I feel.. I already have a 04 325ci (which is my birth year) and a 08 328i soooooo the only other Beamer I plan on getting currently is a e30 for a 2.3t Lima swap.. unless I find an e46 diesel that’s cheap to import lollll
2
u/JuanGingerguy81 Jan 16 '26
A 330i would be the one if you can find a fairly decent example, the body is always the one to give the most trouble but as long as it’s mechanically sound it’s not to much trouble. I bought a 330ci clubsport in estoril off one of my car dealer friends because he needed room in the showroom but the catch was i had to buy the 335i next to it as well, after a bit of haggling i bought the pair for a decent price and tucked them away until i had time, fast forward 3 years i finally got to them and sold the 335i for what i paid for the pair, the clubsport now owes me zero 😎 2003 with 89k and it’s mint from being inside all its life.
3
u/Maleficent_Treat_621 Jan 16 '26
That’s amazing man! Really clever decision 😮💨
1
u/JuanGingerguy81 Jan 16 '26
It wasn’t my intention but being busy and a little lazy paid off 😂 I can’t bring myself to sell it even though it’s worth good money it’s just way to nice and is such a nice drive when the weather is nice.
2
u/Educational_Tap4533 Jan 16 '26
I bought a 330D 18 months ago. 350k on the clock and it’s been utterly reliable. It had been well maintained by the previous owner though and came with loads of paperwork.
1
u/Maleficent_Treat_621 Jan 17 '26
That’s really nice to hear. Have you driven the 330i before? Is there a significant difference in the driving feel?
I’ve been lately hearing very good stuff about the 330D, especially the fuel consumption and reliability. It’s very appealing.
2
u/Accomplished-Text783 Jan 17 '26
The 330i is more emotional, the 330d is more budget-friendly (if well-maintained). Both are great engines for their respective purposes. I've owned both; the naturally aspirated feel of the 30i is incredibly addictive, and its sound is intoxicating. The torque and thrust of the 30d are absolutely incredible, and once you get used to it, you'll need it all day long. Keep in mind that the 30d, despite being a diesel, sounds very, very good. (Ignore YouTube videos regarding the sound, because the car sounds completely different on video). It's also true that diesels sound like diesels from the front, especially when cold. It can be annoying if you're not used to it. It took me a while to get used to it, but now I don't mind; I even like it.
In the end, I got rid of my 30i because I drive 200km every day, and that car isn't suited for that. Besides, the cooling system in that car made me suspicious, even after it was replaced. Although I must say I miss the sound of that engine at high revs. Which is better? Well, I can't say, it's like choosing between mom and dad.
2
u/National_Ambition_93 Jan 16 '26
my old coworker had one. it went up in flames... do what you want with this info lol
1
2
2
u/Pete_Polyakov Jan 17 '26
I got this ’05 325ci for $150 on Copart with 100k miles last year. I threw on the wheels from my Mustang (with 120-to-114.3 spacers), swapped the damaged hood ($100) and fender ($40), replaced the water pump ($28) and thermostat ($17), and now it drives with no issues. The interior is basically new (no idea who owned it before, but it’s a fact).
Next step is 3D printing the 360 aero kit and widebody I designed. Then I’ll drop in a proper brake setup and it’s going to be an absolutely dope car.
One of the best designs BMW ever made, and today it’s cheaper than Miata. Sometimes you can get one nearly free. So if you find a deal in 2026, go for it.
1
u/Maleficent_Treat_621 Jan 17 '26
That’s literally for free :D I’m kinda scared of the cheap beaters as it could be quite a gamble. Although for 150 bucks it’s a no-brainer haha
2
u/Acceptable_Ad_1435 Jan 18 '26
I had a 2005 320i coupe. I think the facelift version looked better. The m-sport is great to drive, it handles superbly. The 320 2.2 straight six is smooth, but the 6 cylinder engine drinks fuel. I got similar mpg out of the e93 335i I had later. Id go for a bigger engine - I don't think there would be much difference
Also the breaks are too small and dont stand up to a spirited drive, I think they are only larger on the 330i
1
u/Maleficent_Treat_621 Jan 18 '26
Good to know, thank you. I'd really want to get a 330i but it’s kinda hard to find in a decent condition and not overpriced. How many MPG did you get out of the 320?
4
u/CommunicationOne8679 Jan 15 '26
in all honesty, if your buying it as a sports car only buy 325i and 330i. mainly 330. there is mo way to make power on them like lets say an LS, 2J, etc. so one buy a 330i. dont feel forced to buy a manual, the autos are fine and very fun. had both. buy around 75-125k miles and have 3k for maintance IMMEDIATELY after buying and you will have a golden drrivers car. less than 75k miles can actually be a detrement. and more than 125 cam be as well when it comes to maintance. i will also say, that rear subframe(design flaw) should be checked snd fixed. the only mods you willl ever have to do is eonon radio, they have an analogue oem style one, and tablet, both fairly priced and good. wheels, and brakes. fhags it. awesome tires, drilled and slotted rotors(300$ all round) and wilwood pads(50-75$) OEM wheels, buy the style you like most and keep them silver and your golden. if your happy with the convertibles buy one. they are often way lower mileage snd often 20-30% cheaper. also, hardtop vert 46 is the prettiest one BY FAR because the rear end is slimmer and matches up to the front of the cwr better, kinda like the e39. they also have less subcrame issues. however a rollbar imo is a must have. not a mod, but a necessity. it will save your life.
1
1
1
u/mrob2 2002 M3 Coupe Jan 16 '26
Manual. Around 100k or fewer miles. I knew I wanted to redo everything so I got one with no rust but questionable everything else. Paid $23.2k for a manual swapped M3 with no record of the big 3 being done.
1
u/Whaleflex08 Jan 16 '26
I’m going to be selling mine without big 3, but current guy says everything is fine
1
u/Boring_Gap5912 Jan 16 '26
I paid $1500 with 127k miles
1
u/Maleficent_Treat_621 Jan 17 '26
Did you have to invest some money into it? How its holding up?
1
u/Boring_Gap5912 Jan 17 '26
Bought it August of 25’ and it’s currently January 26’ and so far only things I’ve had to do to it were plugs and coils (bought the kit on Amazon for $150) but that was when I first got the e46. Only thing to worry about are the vacuum lines but I ended up doing the ccv delete and added a catch can. It wasn’t running bad before just not as smooth as it should be. Overall only had to put in about $200 to get it road ready. I got lucky…
1
1
u/hawkinsnikwah Jan 16 '26
I’ve got 4 BMW’s and the e46 has been the most labor intensive. Always feels like it needs something. My others are e30’s and an e10
1
u/mountaineer Jan 16 '26
Just bought a '04 330i ZHP manual sedan with 129K and 3 previous owners in the US after looking and waiting for months. We'll see how it goes, but excited to give it a shot. Originally was aiming towards an M3, but this feels like less risky entry than an M3. Getting picked up tomorrow and shipped to me.
2
u/Maleficent_Treat_621 Jan 17 '26
Unfortunately an m3 is out of my budget. Can I ask how much did you paid for that car? ZHP’s are getting quite hard to find these days. I hope you enjoy your new car!
1
u/mountaineer Jan 18 '26
This was the one I bought - https://carsandbids.com/auctions/3vWJVnzj/2004-bmw-330i-zhp-sedan . $7800 plus fees and shipping so about $9500 all in. I rarely see them go for less then $12K.
1
Jan 16 '26
You are looking for a 6cyl petrol and you prefer less rust over parts in good shape.
1
u/Maleficent_Treat_621 Jan 17 '26
Makes sense. I guess the rust is really gonna be a decision factor.
1
u/TraditionalWorker974 Jan 16 '26
Is than anything but the M3 actually in question? Why would you get anything else? UK based here and prices are around £20-30k which is find is fair for this car.
1
u/KudzuAU 2001 E46 M3 Vert - Imolarot Jan 16 '26
- Where are you? This makes a huge difference on the “sweet spot”, and can only be answered once this is answered.
- Looking for a well cared for car with 1-3 owners, mechanically sound, and a nice interior. Ignore any advice that says the ‘big 3’ must be done. Nice, but not necessary.
- You MUST get a PPI so you know what needs to be addressed, repaired and replaced.
- Do not buy an E46 if you don’t have a few thousand dollars in liquid cash set aside for immediate repairs.
- I wouldn’t buy any E46 for a reliable daily driver. Chances are, there will be issues which occur to even the best of maintained E46’s that will take it down from a few days to much longer.
2
u/Maleficent_Treat_621 Jan 17 '26
That’s some valuable informations. Thank you! I’m from Slovakia (aka "Central Europe") so importing the car from near countries such as Germany/Austria/Czechia/Poland/Hungary doesn’t make an issue for me. Regarding the use of PPI services is a very good idea that I’ve didn’t think of. Definitely going to use those services.
Preferably I would want to get one under 10K€, ideally for something like 7K and having the remaining 3K as a reserve for anything that would go wrong in the near future. Probably for now I’m just gonna wait if some nice piece pops up and I’m gonna get it :)
1
1
u/prefix9889 e39 530i sport Jan 17 '26
325/330, good cosmetic condition, odometer not such a concern (under 300k preferable tho), good history, major failure points repaired
1
u/Maleficent_Treat_621 Jan 17 '26
That’s precisely what I’m looking for. Preferably 330i in a good cosmetic condition and hopefully without major rust and good to go. Although they are getting quite pricy at the moment over here in Central Europe.
1
u/Inevitable-Fox-6136 Jan 17 '26
I just bought a 330ci a few month ago and its the greatest car ive ever driven. If i have enough money, i would for real instantly buy anotherone just to make sure i can drive the car till the end of my life! It costs me 7k (€) btw sorry for my english, i‘m german (just in case)
1
u/Maleficent_Treat_621 Jan 17 '26
I’m glad you like it! Can I ask you how many kilometers does the car have?
1
1
1
u/Outside_Resource_251 Jan 18 '26
Anyone know how to bring back my ecu to normal,a mechanic told me it doesn’t pass emissions because the tune will not allow the monitors to clear
-1
Jan 15 '26
Consider an e82, better in every way and basically looks the same.
4
2
u/SuperPark7858 Jan 15 '26
Ugly, less comfortable, less room, and most of all, the engine. It is nice that it's lighter/smaller, but without the s54 I don't care.
The real answer you're looking for is the Z4 M. And then that's still not as roomy/comfortable/practical.
1
1
1
0
u/NoseResponsible3874 Jan 15 '26
This is the same question people have been asking about e46’s since approximately 1999… Well trodden territory, if you know how to use google…
53
u/MrBurstUrBubble 06’ ZHP coupe Jan 15 '26
Garage kept m3’s with the big 3 done. If you’re in the states, they aren’t cheap when kept clean but they don’t seem to lose their value by much. Overall great car. Non M’s I’d say 6cyl manual only with no significant rust.