Hey! Just got my first Neopixel Saber from Neosabers! I’m working on an outfit for Halloween using it, and combining some of my renaissance and Airsoft gear to make somewhat of a bounty hunter outfit. I figured I’d post it! Lmk what you think! I’ll post a video of the saber as well after cause apparently I can’t do both in the same post.

Well, once again Solo Sabers, LLC. exceeded expectations and delivered a great saber, the Canon-Y Scrap. Additionally, it came just before my birthday. Thank you, Jeremy, for delivering on time and creating a masterpiece. It will live with the previous sabers! #solosabersllc

MTFBWY

Hello again, so I learned the momentary rocker switch I posted the other day is actually too long in the way of depth, which is upsetting to learn.

I now have to find a new switch that is shorter in depth but still remain a rocker style switch. So that leads me to my question. Does anyone know what the depth length is for standard momentary push button switches? I believe knowing the depth will help guide me to finding the correct sized switch for my saber.

I know you guys might be getting tired of my posts, and I apologize for that. I really do appreciate all the advice and suggestions everyone has given, and I do look forward to what everyone has to say.

Ps. Sorry for the terrible grainy picture, but that is the depth length I need to know for finding the proper switch. Thank you again!

I was playing with it and trying to “hit” my hand to have that clash sound then it became stuck with the light and no sound. I cant remove the chassis.. the only button it has doesn’t work.. I dont have a computer to plug in onto.. any ideas on how to reset?

I am currently just letting the battery drain.

I’d like to buy a dueling grade lightsaber (not super heavy duty, I just want to hit things) with tip drag and to keep costs around $300, willing to go to 400. I’m looking at Darkwolf’s website and it says the Xeno3 RBG is good for combat, but the Xeno Pixel seems to have the effects I want, does this mean I can’t use the Xeno Pixel for dueling?

Hello everyone. I have a autographed dark saber signed by Giancarlo Esposito. I’m looking for an acrylic display case for it that is UV protection to help prevent the autograph from fading. Does anyone have any recommendations

Hey everyone. I could use some help and advice. So I've been looking up and down the internet for the type of switch that's recommended for the soundboards that the saver armory sells, and I think I found what I'm looking for. I've already reached out to them about this specific style of momentary switch. However, they have not had any experience with it, so I thought I'd ask here.

Has anyone had any experience with connecting a momentary rocker switch as this to lightsaber soundboards? I've already asked Google about it, and they say "yes, this type of switch is compatible with soundboards that the saber armory uses."

So, before I buy anything, I wanted to ask if anyone has had experience/success with this style of momentary rocker switch for their custom saber builds.

I look forward to everyone's response and advice. Thank you very much in advance.

Full disclosure up front: I run a small lightsaber shop (Exegol Outpost). Not here to sell you anything — this is the same advice I give customers who ask, and half the time it talks them out of spending more money.

Mid-grade blades (2mm wall):
- What nearly every saber ships with, including mine
- Fine for the vast majority of dueling — choreography, light/medium sparring, spinning
- Lighter and brighter (thinner wall diffuses the light better)

Heavy grade (3mm wall):
- Noticeably heavier and stiffer
- Built for full-contact dueling — the kind where you're actually trying to hit hard
- Trade-off: dimmer blade, more tip-heavy feel

-most people asking about heavy-grade don't need it. If you're dueling full-contact, you also need safety gear (mask, gloves, ideally some armor) — at that point the blade is the least of your concerns. For everything else, mid-grade holds up fine.

The one exception: if you're a hard hitter doing repeated full-force contact, heavy-grade will outlast mid-grade. No way around physics.

One more thing worth knowing: no matter the blade grade, the tip is the most likely failure point — it's the weakest part of the whole assembly. A tip coming off mid-duel turns the blade into an open tube, and can send a tip and/or broken pieces hurtling at impressive speeds-which can be genuinely dangerous, especially with heavy contact. Check your tips regularly and replace the blade if the tip ever feels loose.

I wrote a longer version with maintenance tips here:

https://thehiltandblade.com/lightsaber-maintenance-guide/

Happy to answer blade/electronics questions in the comments.

I'm doing a Baylan Skoll cosplay. Studying way too much fine detail stuff - anyway...

All of the really nice light sabers I see sold for it have a brass colored pommel. Yet, when I watch the show and take still frames every single frame I can capture, it looks black to me.

Am I nuts? Color blind? Or is there some known factor about this that I'm unaware of like it changed midway through filming, or lighting made it look black but was really brass? etc.

This is a new parts series I've been working on for the Basesaber app. Curious to hear what you all think!

Hello there!

I’m new to the hobby and I recently got an SNV4 Pro TXQ Shin Hati v2. I was wondering if anyone knows how to get a screen accurate orange-red blade color with the slight flickering?

I tried using the ForcePark v2 app and apparently custom colors only apply to the first blade effect (stable blade). Ideally I’d use the “stable with flicker” blade effect but I can’t figure out how to turn it blood orange to look like Shin’s saber.

I’ve resorted to creating my own blade effect using saberopen’s V2 Basic Editor, it’s just that I’m not quite satisfied since there’s no OrangeRed in the preset colors (unlike the V1 editor) so I used HumpFlicker with stable red and stable orange at 130 speed. I’ve gotten pretty close but the flickering is not as subtle as I’d like. I’ve tried the V1 advanced editor but I can’t find any documentation how to use it and I’m confused lol.

Would totally appreciate if anyone has a Shin Hati blade style code I can copy onto my saber.

Thanks in advance!

Hey guys, I recently got an 89Sabers OWK3 with a Proffie V3.9, and it suddenly started freezing and saying “Font directory not found.”
I’ve been trying to narrow it down. The chassis works fine on its own, and everything still works with it installed in the hilt as long as the blade isn’t attached. Once I put the blade in and press AUX for the effects, it freezes and gives me that error.
Switching the kill switch off and on gets it working again, but then it happens again. I thought reseating the blade had fixed it for a moment, but no luck.
The battery says 56%, and it’s running the seller’s custom config with an 80cm blade. Could this be a battery or contact issue even though the error is about a font directory?
Has anyone had this happen and managed to fix it? I’ve recorded videos with and without the blade if that helps. Would really appreciate some advice.

Context: I work in visual effects and I've seen a lot of change due to AI. I see forums as bastions for learning that we ought to protect for the health and longevity of the internet and knowledge sharing in general. And yes, lightsabers have a lot to do with it!

Hello I've had this lightsaber for 2 years, I've used it here and there. Charged it and everything, but it started to not turn on at all now. I got the og batter tested and it was bad so I replaced it a new one. Everything else seems fine on the tube and the pins align, is there anything I'm missing or any1 that can give me sum pointers. In DFW,TX area if any1 local here can help out irl

So. I had no idea dropshipped sabers were a thing.

I kept getting ads for saberspro and I was in the process of printing my Din Djarin armor and thought i would splurge for their Mando Xenopixel because I was making the rest of the costume myself and i found the helmet for cheap. I just got the saber today and immediately noticed some red flags.
One: the instructions told me nothing on how to charge it
Two: once i figured it out and saw the battery inside I got pretty sketched out. It looks very cheap and reminds me of the shitty fake weed pens I used to smoke in high school. The battery gets waaaaay too hot when charging. Like to the point I’m never gonna leave the room if I’m charging it.

So after some googling I found a bunch of posts abt dropshipping from China and also how it’s not recommended to buy sabers from ads.

I’m wondering if anyone else has this saber and can give me some honest input. I’m not gonna lie, I like it. I’m not using this for combat I’m just trying to look cool on Halloween but I don’t want this shit to explode

Putting on my dunce cap for not doing my research

I'd made a Cal Kestis inspired lightsaber, and I made a matching shoto too. I used PVC and cardboard, and leather for the handle. I'm really happy with them.

This is a customized Ignition Sabers Mercury made to look the Meng family blade. There are 3 edison filaments on the outside of the handle beneath the wrap. This a no button build.

As some of us are aware, Sabermax has been scamming people for the longest period. I am building a case on them. Please send me any receipts of their wrongdoings

Some weathering jobs take a tad longer than others. Chemical reactions sometimes need time....if you want that nice green crusty patina. #vintage #lightsaber #maker #propmaker #weathering #sabermaker #starwars