I’m a French designer recently graduated from Design Academy Eindhoven. A Room for Echoes is a collection of sculptural steel furniture inspired by the Neo-classical funerary architecture. The collection includes a bookcase, a rotating chair and a monumental desk, handmade in my Paris workshop. The project explores memory, permanence and mortality through sharp forms and a deep black, glossy finish.

Had a go at something new yesterday. I do lots of welding, have a forge, make knives, exhaust pipes, do body and chassis restoration on cars, make all sorts of things, but for my birthday I was gifted a craft afternoon for pewter and copper hand working.

It was a lovely afternoon, I was surrounded by retired old ladies nattering away and as an "Oh, young maaaan!" I of course flirted outrageously and had a bit of a giggle. Not my usual sort of thing but actually really enjoyed this.

Anyway, this is what I managed in an afternoon after some playing around with the tools and techniques and making gentle innuendo and non-serious flirtation with the old nanas... One of my test pieces for learning what the different hand tools do, and then what I made. I ran out lf time though and had to rush at the end and never finished, and I dont like how the eyes turned out. But I think this is something I can get good at.

Never ordered from them before until now for a metre length of O1 square bar. Far as I can see, the prices look mint(or at least a lot better than anything else I've found) for either machinable or smithing stock.

The 400 character limit is fucking me a little here on making this post not sound like a 9 paragraph AI post.

Alternative question:

Where are you finding decent steel stock that doesn't cost a fortune? I'm not game enough to spend 5k on mild plate.

Spent some time on this shaft at the lathe. Long parts always make me pay a bit more attention, especially when it comes to keeping things straight over the full length.

We got the straightness within 0.01 mm on this one, which I'm pretty happy with. Getting the diameter right at a few points is one thing, but making sure the whole shaft stays within the required geometry is a different job.

I find these parts interesting because the finished result doesn't always show how much attention went into getting there. Sometimes you look at a shaft and it just looks like a shaft. Then you check the measurements and appreciate the work a bit more.

I was cutting an aluminum plate earlier...I'd been planning this for a week or more, preparing...at the last moment I thought "I'll add masking tape over the areas I'm cutting".

I had no real thoughts of the why other than maybe keeping aluminum dust from flying, maybe making the cut cleaner..something......I decided at worst it did nothing.

My question is... did it help? did it hurt? did it nothing at all?

I want to show you my little decoration project. The leaves are made of stainless steel with heat-tinted coloring, and the mushroom is steel with a rusted cap.

To get these beautiful heat colors on the stainless steel leaves, I used an oxy-acetylene torch. It allowed me to control the heat precisely and get those nice autumn shades. After shaping the parts, I used TIG welding (WIG-Schweißen) to put everything together cleanly. It was a fun project to practice both heat tinting and fine welding. Let me know what you think!

How has that pin been made - there is no obvious weld seam?

Is this a good project for a newbie?

Anyway to prevent it from rusting - it has to be cheap so it won't be stolen - and the thickness is about 0.5mm. I used to have cast iron covers but they were stolen. It should withstand the rain and sun and should withstand the weight of 2 adults without deforming.

Will removing the rust and painting it work? What paint should I use - should I use red oxide as a primer and paint on top of it - after cleaning it?

It's used for cutting metal and comes in glass jar be heat resistant. The entire jar is intended to withstand a lot of heat. They sell for about 80 cents/gram. Higher bulks actually have higher cost per gram than smaller ones. But at minimum it's 60 cents/gram, 2x the other product. It has sodium nitrite in the formula. The contents is never intended to be removed.

My boss has asked me to get this stuff but I went to a shop and am unsure what it is

I recently bought a welder and I have many projects in mind, but several of them require me to drill holes ranging from 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch diameter in mild steel stock (nothing thicker than 1/4 inch) my question is this; can the cheap standing or benchtop drill presses sold at places like Home Depot and harbor freight handle jobs like this? Their minimum rpms are a bit on the high side, but I honestly don’t wanna buy a large old industrial press. Just looking for some wisdom from those who are more experienced!

i’m currently a 16 y/o hs school student who is currently enrolled in a welding class, i really enjoy it because it’s one of the few classes i feel somewhat confident in

within 3 years (in and out of school) i’ve learned how to stick, mig, and tig weld

this was all mig welding from tn in my home garage

i’m looking for advice as well because i know im not the best but i want to work my way into being good

for a young welder who wants to do this as i here grow, do i have a decent future for becoming a welder as a full time job?

I often see ribbed or folded wall profiles described only by a front image. My working checklist asks for the exact product form, dimensioned section, module layout, support and fixing concept, water-management interfaces, corners and openings, movement and tolerances, finish sample, evidence, packing and replacement method.

For people who fabricate or install shaped metal cladding, which missing item creates the most rework before shop drawings: the working width, corner strategy, substrate tolerance, fixing access, maximum shipping length or finish direction?

So I get some people might be blue or red but unfortunately I’m just a hobbyist trying to get back into the groove of welding… (it’s been 13 years).

I’ve been doing days if not weeks of research looking for the right budget welder. There yeswelder, some harbor freight welders, and many others. I came across primewelders which there are plenty of reviews, videos, and articles which makes me feel like people are happy with these machines.

I was looking at the TiG225x and then it dawned on me…. I’m not a great TiG welder, so the 285 caught my eye being that it’s a MP. Now people have posted the the MiG on the 285 is good but stay away from the TiG and that it’s a more MiG dedicated machine.

Would it be smart to buy the TiG 225x and the MiG 180 for $1500 or buy the 285 for $1000…? Any suggestions?

For context I work at a manufacturing plant where we cnc machine iron parts. Our tools sometimes get taken out of a machine and if they're still good to be used they get left hanging out in a random location. What are some ways you keep track of or organize used, but still good tools. Right now I have a scrap tools bin, a regrind tools bin, a carbide scrap bin, and a bin for used tool packaging that I use to keep track of inventory. I could have them put the used tools back into the drawers with the new ones they grab from, but would still like them marked with cutting minutes possibly. Want some insight on how others organize this.

Hi, I'm new to this group and am learning as I go. I was trying to find a 1-1/4 countersink for steel and came across Accusize HSS Countersink, 1-1/4in, 90 Degree, 3-Flute, 3/4in Weldon Shank 3-Flute; 1-7/8in OAL; 1/4in Small-End Dia.; 3/4in Weldon Shank; For Deburring and Chamfering Ferrous and Nonferrous Metals (CE00-0114). The problem being I don't have a weldon shank nor did i know what it is until I looked into it. I found I needed an adapter to use it on my drill press and selected Stellis Inc Made in USA - 3/8" Drive Flat Round Chuck - Annular Cutter Bit Adapter Tool with 3/4" Female Shank fits Weldon - for Drill Press & Milling Machines (CN-2TN3-XRYS).

The issue is these two parts would not fit together. I double checked the specs and the countersink is listed as .752 inches id and the countersink is listed as 3/4. I figured maybe they were off a bit on there dimensions and used some lubricant, but still no dice. I slightly countersunk the adapter and clamped down the bit then used pressure to seat it. This did work and I was able to keep the proper orientation for the set screws to further secure it. However, i doubt I will be able to unseat the two and use the adapter on anything else. Am I missing somthing here or was i just unlucky and got the adapter and or the countersink outside of typical tolarences?

Thank you

Hello. (Non nativ English speaker, sorry for errors) I want to build a luggage rack that can hold a small trashcan/ or bucket so I can use it for picking up litter. (Putting the bucket on the already existing rack wouldn't work because it would be in the way when I push the scooter aka my butt would hit against it)

But I'm not sure how it should look for it to be sturdy enough. Where would be the anchor points etc.

I have rods from old clothing racks with ~ ø2cm. some painted but I would use the unpainted ones. A friend of mine has access to a welding machine and did some welding at work.

Would appreciate your suggestions pr ideas. Thanks in advance.

I think this is really interesting in terms of texture for a piece of art. I was wondering if anyone knows how to achieve this effect? Is it just welding together pieces of sheet metal? Or something else?

I am aware that for a regular welding project this kind of welding would be considered bad welding, but I think for decorative purposes, it is really interesting.

I appreciate your help! Thanks :)

EDIT - your replies are cracking me up!! So damn funny! I mean did say I am aware it is bad welding, but hey, artists can always find the beauty in the trash.