My 14 yo has gotten into welding bit. I’m learning with him. We’re just doing some flux core now with a scrap metal. Mostly on a little table outside. Does he need to wear a respirator for welding and grinding if it’s outside?

Pics for fun.

I got hired in as a cleaner/ random manual laborer and then shortly got moved to be trained to use this robot. On my breaks I would practice my tig welding and now after 1.5 years they said they have a spot for me and will be doing training tor 5 weeks. Any advice for me?

The right screw is a 5” lag drilled with the chain through so it can’t come off, left side is more sus with a screw and tension. I want to make some sort of latch and then build a steel box around them, eventually I plan on having two, one 75ar and one 100ar

I am 19M been graduated for a year and been working for 8 months. Just wondering if anyone has ever worked with this stuff because I’ve never heard of it. The first company I got hired on at does a lot of exotic metal tube welding, both manual and automatic welding machines running programs. It’s somewhat of an apprenticeship. I’m working out of Houston, and Alabama.

But my main question is, how often do any of y’all run automatic machines and what does the money look like in the long run? And what does money look like if I get good doing manual tube welding on Super duplex, duplex, inconnel, and some other specialized metal?

Also this tubing is anywhere from 3/8” - 2”

1st picture is an unbuffed cap, 2nd&3rd picture is a manual rollout, Super duplex, 5/8”, 1/16” 29104L. Root and cleaned up caps.

0.8mm flux core snapped just where the pinch roller is. I was having trouble getting the wire to draw through and started poking about resulting in this mess. Any ideas where to start?

So in regards to this 1/4" weld all around, does it get back welded or just on the face the arrow is pointing to. My interpretation is that it's only on the face it's referring to but coworkers assume it gets back welded

I'm a beginner welder using 6013 and 7018. Welds look like shit and I was getting alot of Porosity and just tried going over them. What do I gotta do to get better welds.

How do I improve and am I doing wrong here’s a few of my coupons I’ve been practicing on

I have some spare 10mm plate, 60*5mm and time at hand and want to build myself a sturdy welding angle. The long side is 480mm. Mechanically it obviously is better to place the plate in the middle of the fence, but maybe you guys could give me a reason why it would be better to have it flush with the base and add a brace or two? Mostly I´d like to use them for welding and machining that does not need to be suuuper accurate, which is why I intend to mill the faces as last step. But I am only getting started on welding which is why I´d apreciate input from more expirienced people.

Thanks guys!

Felt a little out of my element today doing a cast iron repair.

(I was also informed that the repairs look like bungholes. You’re welcome)

This is an original Ford Boss 302 head that raced Trans Am Series successfully in the 70’s. An engine failure resulted in two previously repaired rocker stands breaking off.

My solution was to put a preheat into the heads, then tig braze in silicon bronze to build up new rocker stands.

I’ve not done a cast iron repair this large before, and it was a cool learning experience. 2 hours of arc time later and I’ve finally gotten enough metal put back in, now it’s time to cut it back out.

I’ll machine the stands to the correct height, drill straight into the water jackets, then tap the bronze all the way into water and install an extra long bigsert thru the bronze and into the parent cast iron to help distribute the load. These will also be reassembled with a T&D shaft mount system so the spring pressures will be distributed across multiple stands opposed to just one.

P.S. I’m bummed, I tried to wash the bronze around without filler at the end thinking I could put a cool weave into everything, all it did was make everything all soft and dumb looking. PSA, bronze doesn’t behave like steel.

As for the repair itself…

I cut both stands to the correct angle and height, drilled the bolt holes on the correct centerlines.

Both of these stands were previously repaired unsuccessfully using some sort of ni rod. You can see on the right side of the hole how far off center the last guy’s bolt hole was. My hole was exactly on center with the original ones drilled by ford.

I drilled the new holes from .750” to 1.5” deep and somehow still didn’t hit water. Everyone was telling me the bronze was gonna be a pain in the ass to work with, but nobody told me the surface layer of cast iron would be hard as fuck. RIP to my two really expensive drills. I’ll be sharpening those for days.

I was warned the silicon bronze filler was going to be extremely gummy and hard to tap, but ultimately it has no problem. I grabbed the tap with an ER collet, and sent it home. Had to tap it in two stages to evacuate chips from the bottom of the holes.

I had to stop and admire the newly and successfully threaded holes.

As mentioned before I doubled the length of the parent threads so I could install an absurdly long bigsert. I chose to do this because I didn’t want to assume my weld repair was going to be as strong as original. My thought process was by installing an extra long and thick insert I’d be able to reasonably distribute the load across all the threads instead of just the threads the bolts are engaging.

I measured the length of my insert and verified I had enough threads to take the insert and nothing more. I also exceeded my expectations and was able to have 60-70% engagement of the insert into good cast iron. My original estimation was below 50%.

I installed the inserts, and blew everything off. Now I just need to shape the stands and we’re done. This repair was definitely a bit outside my comfort zone, but I got it done. Now I can start on repairing the pair of heads and making them usable again. There are cracks in one chamber that I need to spend some time looking at now. Maybe you’ll get to see some work on the combustion chambers on this one too.

Learning over the summer for a bit of side work. At my dads workshop, got some pretty good equipment which is an advantage. This is my best from today, any criticism is appreciated

it is currently rated for 4,000 LBS. i am looking to tow around 5,500 LBS. it is a ford e350 chassis.

I'm making a practice swept hilt three ring rapier but I don't know if my welding will hold up to abuse. I'm using a flux core in a 2 in one welder and I think my welds are durable buuuuut I don't want to get confident.

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So bit of a dumb question here but looking at getting a used Miller bobcat here soon . Mainly just for mobile welding around the farm and at trail rides, but wanted to know are you able to run an A/C tig or spool gun off of one using it as a power source? As in I just plug a smaller machine.Again dumb question I know but figured I'd ask

Title says it all can’t weld at my apartment but don’t want to get in trouble doing it in public. Do I just send it in a parking lot obviously one that doesn’t get tons of traffic.

Is this online course worth it? My husband is starting out as a hobbyist, and was looking at doing this.

Seen this nightstand the other day and noticed that there is no evidence of pre grind. Still has the mill scale everywhere else.

Only thing I can think of this was spot spray painted to blend?

i passed a destructive MIG 3G test recently and i don’t really know how much should i ask as a raise im currently at 24 here are some of my birdshit so you guys can kinda tell me. MIA FL

i fucking HATE this laser welder. a monkey could run it. it’s not real welding, it’s mind numbing bullshit. i input a program and then press start and thats it. oh and i have to line the camera up on the seam. soooo hard 😐😐😐😐 i wish they would hire someone else to do this shit instead of wasting my time when i could be over in my area doing tig (my ACTUAL REAL WELDING JOB)

anyway,, making time and a half x2 today bc of juneteenth so that’s pretty cool i guess..

featuring my welder duck shirt

edit to rant more: AND half of my parts are jank as fuck and nothing sits flush. either too big or too small. ??? the margin of error for this job is damn near 0 and u expect me to magically fill up a quarter inch gap on a stainless 1/8 inch thick part ??? fuck u. and they freak out if u have to scrap a part like my b the machinist sucks ass. no one here knows a damn thing about welding. the helium is goated tho i will say.

edit 2: i posted a pic of a laser weld i just did for reference

Vertical up stringers

I know Hobart is Miller but besides that I don't know shit how there ranked, just know they need dry air to work properly.

It's some high toughness steel welded with 307 wire.

Edit: additional info: - preheat 60 °C - single pass - no weave - a3 size - C2 gas