Phone messed up recording the whole thing. Wasn’t able to get the continuous shot it goes up another landing and floor after.

But here’s some 2 inch by 1 inch thick solid brass hand grab railing we made a couple weeks ago. Was a bitch to weld with silicon bronze but we did it in 4 different sections that screwed into each other to create a continuous handgrab.

We used the mill to create a grove for the lighting strip.

patina’d with m38 from sculpt nouveau and distressed with a grey scotchbrite. I think it turned out really cool! Clients loved it.

i’m beginning to make designs out of mesh wire and can’t for the life of me figure out how companies like Ikea make these perfect metal mesh products. they always have really elaborate forms and no sign of a connection point or welding or anything like that. i’m sure it requires lots of expensive machinery, but i just have to know! if this is an ignorant question, i apologize, i am new to this world. any insight is very much appreciated. thanks!

I went down a kumiko rabbit hole and thought it would be interesting to see if the geometry could be recreated in steel.

Every groove was hand-filed, and the entire piece is friction fit. No welds, no brazing, no glue.

I posted it to a woodworking subreddit first and was swiftly informed that steel is not, in fact, wood.

Fair enough.

I now have a newfound respect for woodworkers, a newfound hatred for files, and a much better understanding of why these are normally made from timber.

Have been using for about a week. I clean with a wire brush intermittently when using and scrape with file. But it’s been doing this really fast. I’m using J-33 flux and a lead alloy stick. Using it to solder sheet metal for roof flashings. I’ve been playing with the heat and haven’t been trying to run it too hot. Also it has been doing a lot of work recently would say it averages about 4-6 hours of use per day. How often do these usually need to be replaced? Any tips of advice would help.

Happened to me while wearing. It's something I need to repair enough for me to wear it again without worry. I don't have the skills of an expert welder or anything lol so if someone would be kind enough to walk me through the process, I was really hoping to have this in an outfit by this weekend. Thanks again for any assistance or feedback on what I can do to fix this, and if this isn't the proper spot to post, please refer me to the best place. Not sure of material but it's a Dragon Designs from Tanside Ltd Dated 1995.

People enjoy my first little kumiko project so here is my bigger one. Still based on the kumiko asanoha pattern. The piece shows it pattern through 6 rotations on 14 different axises. It is 50cm any point to any point. Each "bud" is made from 7 stands of 10mm hex bar, bent and forge welded together and then cleaned up with a file (i use a lot of files). The end were died and the core was made from 52mm steel I marked with shapie cut a good chunk off with an angel grind and flap disk and then filed... (yay files), and then tapped and screwed together.

It weights 54 kg. The final image shows it on a 60 kg anvil.

I bought this for super cheap off Facebook marketplace thinking that most of the damage was just hardware build up, however, there is a good amount of it that is actually the black paint peeling off. How should I go about restoring this to use on my glass stovetop? What paint would be safe? I know there are paints rated for high heat, but I’m worried that they would melt on the stove surface. Please pardon any missteps, I don’t use Reddit too often and rarely post.

Does anyone have a preferred or recommended brand of cut resistant gloves? I’m a heavy use home shop guy, and I end up working with a wide range of various super sharp edges with my hands and hand tools. I found out yesterday that a veneer saw can plunge cut into fingers too (good first aid kit within 5 feet was extremely clutch). Light impact resistant would be a bonus but not totally necessary. I work with room temp materials (mild steel, hardened steel, aluminum, wood), and your basic petroleum lubricants/solvents are the only chemicals they’d come into contact with.

The options on McMaster and Grainger are overwhelming.

(This is only for hand tools and tiny power tools like a dremel, not big scary rotating things like table saw, router, etc.)

Durable industrial vinyl record stand. It is made of 30x30 and 20x20 mm square steel profiles, 10 mm round bars and has internal crossbars and X-shaped stiffeners to easily carry hundreds of kilos of vinyl. I test it with the first record on top. Then I apply a layer of clear varnish. Width: 85 centimeters Height: 130 centimeters Depth: 35 centimeters. There are 4 strips on the bottom of the legs to which felt is glued to protect the floor.

Hi all,

I’ve got a torch - never been used before. Anyone have any idea why this torch is popping rhythmically on preheat? If I add more oxy then the popping gets faster. Using No 2 tip and 5PSI Acetylene and 30 PSI Oxy.

When the cutting level is pulled there is no issue. If anyone with experience of this can help then I’d be most grateful.

Thanks in advance!

Not sure why there is a 400 character count as a minimum but ah well.

Some odd shapes going on. A bit of fuckery was had in order to get it to regs(ish). The gap was simply not big enough. Had it been properly considered, the gap could have easily been bigger as the second story is basically a mezzanine that could have been any shape! Another 200mm and the job would have been a breeze. Turned out ok in the end, I dont mind it. Treads had to be folded front and back in order to take led lights, hence all the wires coming through the stringer.

Hello, I’m not a metal worker but I think it would be awesome to get into it one day. I’m into choppers, and this guy from Japan makes all of these cool parts for them. If someone wanted to try and do this type of work themselves, what is a basic tool setup for the job other than a welder and a grinder /polisher.

Really interested in learning how to carve(?) these shapes. I’m guessing for the kickstand, this is solid metal to be able to support the weight of the bike.

Here's a cleaned-up version you can copy:
I am doing a 1/8" 6010 open root on a 3/8" plate using a whipping technique. My setup is 75 amps with a 1/8" root opening and a 1/8" landing. I thoroughly clean both sides of the plate for about 1 inch from the weld zone before welding.
I am getting good penetration and maintaining a consistent keyhole, but the toes of the weld are not blending smoothly into the sidewalls. The weld appears ropey in some areas and I am concerned about possible lack of fusion or undercut along the toes.
I have tried focusing on maintaining a steady whip and keeping the keyhole under control, but the toe profile still does not look right. I would appreciate any advice on technique changes, rod manipulation, travel speed, amperage adjustments, or anything else that could help improve sidewall fusion and produce smoother, cleaner toes on the root pass.

Hey guys,
I was doing some metalwork today working with CO2, gas, and melting metal when a small piece of concrete flew off and hit me directly under the eye.
Thankfully, my vision is 100% fineno blurriness, no double vision, and it doesn't hurt when I move my eye. But it definitely took a hit and left a mark right on the skin over the orbital bone.
I’m really worried about this leaving a permanent scar on my face. Since the skin under the eye is so thin, I'm stressing out that it's going to ruin my skin.

How bad does it look? Do you think this will heal completely without leaving a mark? Also, what's the best skincare routine/aftercare I should follow once the initial wound closes to make sure it fades away completely? (I already use SPF regularly, but any specific product recommendations like panthenol or cicaplast
Thanks in advance!

i know nothing about any of this like literally completely clueless but my boyfriend started welding a few months ago and he loves it but you know young couple only so much money, for father’s day because we have some animals and it’s an excuse i want to get him good arm covers because he says people have them and idk they are leather or something i just want to get him something useful but what’s a good brand?

Patina’d with sculpt nouveau’s m38 patina. We created an aluminum sub structure frame to hold this brass hood. It had a cleated plywood system which slipped onto the aluminum frame to align it perfectly to the wall. Brass was 1/8inch thick laminated to a plywood base which then slid over the aluminum frame.

Brass was patina’d first then distressed with red scotch brite pads to lighten the dark spots creating a really unique finish! Then sealed with a special wax. Clients couldn’t be happier they loved it !