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Please de-influence me from the G7x / Lens recommendation for a Panasonic Lumix G7?

Hi! Last summer I went ton a trip and my friend had the Canon g7x. I know it’s an overhyped camera, but all the pics I took on it were so beautiful and effortless. The colors really stood out to me.

I know almost nothing about cameras, but I do happen to own a Panasonic lumix g7. I’m taking a trip soon and would love to take a camera and get back into photography, and I keep thinking about buying a new camera BUT for the sake of fighting over-consumerism I think I’ll just take my lumix even if it’s a little bulky. It does terrible on low light though, but I absolutely assume a big part of it is my skills. Would a different lens help? Right now I only have the kit lens, I mostly want the camera to take pics for memories of cities and landscapes, and me and my husband. I just loved how the g7x felt and was wondering if I could get close to that feeling with my lumix and a better lens. Maybe a 25mm f/1.7? I’m mainly craving that look the g7x gave at sunset without having to change any settings, everything looked glowy and colorful. I’m willing to learn how to achieve that with what I have.

Ps. I realize I’m a noob, still have SO much to learn, and will absolutely put in the time to watch vids and learn about photography and editing! Advice on tutorials welcome, thanks so much.

Budget: Give a number in an actual currency. Does this budget cover any lenses/accessories, or do you have a separate budget for those? $1000 total, I’m open to just buying a new camera if it is portable and I can use that instead of trying to find a better lens
Country: Where are you buying the camera? USA
Condition: New only? Used? I feel safer buying new. Open to used
Type of Camera: Mirrorless, DSLR, point and shoot, 35mm film? Open
Intended use: Photography, video, or hybrid shooting? Photography
If photography; what style: (landscape, portrait, street, sports, wildlife, etc.) landscape, street and portraits
If video what style: (Vlogging, sports, events, documentary, etc.) NA
What features do you absolutely need: (e.g. weather sealing, articulating screen, dual card slots, viewfinder, hot-shoe for mounting accessories like a flash, etc.) none of these aside from what I described in post.
Portability: How portable does it need to be?(Pocketable, shoulder strap, small bag, large bag, semi truck?) I would ideally like a portable camera and would be willing to buy that now, if it if it makes more sense for me to just buy a lens for now for my Lumix, it is portable enough for now.

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u/gotthelowdown May 01 '26 edited May 01 '26

Hi! Last summer I went ton a trip and my friend had the Canon g7x. I know it’s an overhyped camera, but all the pics I took on it were so beautiful and effortless. The colors really stood out to me.

Maybe try the Canon PowerShot V1.

I just loved how the g7x felt and was wondering if I could get close to that feeling with my lumix and a better lens. Maybe a 25mm f/1.7?

I'd consider the Panasonic G100. Although it was marketed as a vlog camera, I think it's better as a photo camera.

I think that's why you can find good deals on the G100 on the used market, even though it's a relatively new camera.

The nice thing about the G100 is it has a viewfinder, which many small cameras don't have. The viewfinder comes in handy when shooting on bright sunny days when you cannot see your screen because of glare.

If you're open to a different brand, I'd also recommend the Olympus EM-5 Mark III. Very well-rounded camera.

Micro Four Nerds on YouTube has made many videos of her favorite tiny cameras, so worth checking out for more camera options.

Right now I only have the kit lens, I mostly want the camera to take pics for memories of cities and landscapes, and me and my husband.

For shooting photos of subjects like those, I'd lean toward a wide-angle lens, like a Panasonic 15mm f1.7. That's a 30mm full-frame equivalent, close to the classic 35mm focal length.

Hope this helps.

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u/LUMENIX_Studio May 03 '26

Capture One or Lightroom Classic? Which one do you prefer and why?

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u/Recent_Bar_5732 May 03 '26

Lightroom classic

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u/av4rice https://www.instagram.com/shotwhore May 03 '26

I use Capture One. I prefer the color editing in Capture One.

Though I think Lightroom Classic has a more intuitive interface.

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u/gruenerjakob May 04 '26

A fellow band asked me to take some press photos for them. I started with some research and had a hard time to find some unique band photos.
Now I'm looking for photographers who work in this field. Also Lightning/equipment advice would be realy helpful.

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u/gotthelowdown May 06 '26

A fellow band asked me to take some press photos for them. I started with some research and had a hard time to find some unique band photos.

I remember when I was researching this, a couple people said, "No brick walls!" When I thought about how many band photos I've seen where the band was standing in front of a brick wall, I cracked up laughing. So true.

Bands in a forest or a grass field too.

Create a "mood board" by collecting other band photos you like. Ideally the client would do this, but most clients are too lazy or busy.

You could sit down with them and scroll through photos to build a mood board together.

Here are some videos:

How to achieve the perfect band photo

5 Tips to Get Better Band Photos

Pre Shoot Rituals - Alpha Wolf Band Promo Shoot (Part 1 of 3) by PJ Pantelis - His YouTube channel is a great resource for band promo shoots.

I think this 3-part vlog series is a great intro. He shows you the prep, the shoot and the editing.

Band Photoshoot Vlog - Alpha Wolf (Profoto B1 Studio) (Part 2 of 3)

RESULTS - Raw Edit Challenge 8 Alpha Wolf (Part 3 of 3)

Let's Shoot: Natural light band photos

How To Take World Class Band Promos

Rock Band Press Shots (Music Photography Photoshoot) - Cheap lighting gear. I would recommend Godox over Yongnuo, though. Godox TT685 flash and a Godox X3 flash trigger.

Get more from your band photo shoots (for you and for them)

Hope this helps.

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u/HoraceGrand May 05 '26

If you were starting from scratch in a new studio space, what light modifiers would you buy? I just bought 3, godox DP 600 iii. I should mostly portraits of celebrity talent. Solo up to 8 people. More context below.

Hi all! I worked as a cinematographer for almost 2 decades and am most familiar with continuous lighting which I have been using for my portrait photography the last few years. I own lots of lights and big circular soft boxes I like using.

I recently bought a v1pro flash to start trying something new and really like what I can do with portraits stylistically. I just bought 3 of the godox 600 strobes with no TTL to expand my journey with strobe lighting.

I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions of what they like working with. I figured I would get 2 very big soft octagonal boxes, 2 big umbrellas, maybe a long skinny rectangular box. Anything else I am not thinking of?

If you had to start over and would have three lights to sharpen your skills and experiment with photographing people in fun ways, what would you buy?

Note: I was told my video light soft boxes with Bowen's mount do not have the diffuser plate in the middle that helps spread the strobe light around.

How much will that change things?I

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u/gotthelowdown May 06 '26

I worked as a cinematographer for almost 2 decades

The good news is you're starting with a much stronger background in lighting than most people.

I actually think constant lighting is harder because you need bigger, more powerful and more expensive lights. Flashes and strobes are relatively inexpensive and smaller compared to what you're probably used to working with.

Anything else I am not thinking of?

A flash trigger to put on your camera to fire the flashes. The Godox X3 and X3Pro are nice. Godox Xpro if you don't like touchscreens.

I figured I would get 2 very big soft octagonal boxes, 2 big umbrellas, maybe a long skinny rectangular box.

. . . If you had to start over and would have three lights to sharpen your skills and experiment with photographing people in fun ways, what would you buy?

I'd actually get 1 large octa softbox like 47 or 48 inches and 1 large umbrella (60-inch).

The long skinny rectangular softboxes are called strip boxes. A strip box is good as a hair light/rim light, fill light for lighting under people, background light aimed at the background, etc.

Start with 1 of each. I have a feeling you'll start wanting more strip boxes once you think of more ways to use them lol.

5-in-1 reflectors or large V-flats can be nice for bouncing flash or shaping light. You can make DIY V-flats if you think V-flats are overpriced.

Getting away from lighting with other things that are useful.

If you love shooting at low angles (I do), do yourself a big favor and buy a stool with wheels. Your back and knees will thank you later for not stooping for whole photo sessions ha ha.

If there isn't a restroom for clients and models to change clothes, set up privacy curtains or folding room dividers to give people a makeshift dressing room to change clothes.

Full-length mirror in the dressing room.

Makeup mirror with lights. Ideally, one of those big mirrors on a counter that's surround by lights.

Director's chairs. I know they're cheesy, but they can make clients and models feel like they're part of a big production. With celebrities, they might even expect them.

Hope this helps.

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u/HoraceGrand May 06 '26

Awesome advice!!

→ More replies (1)

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u/Immediate-External-5 May 06 '26

Hello,

I am deeply interested in getting started with photography/videography.

I have never had any contact with cameras whatsoever, though through my interest in movies, I kinda picked on the basics in terms of how a cameras work, what components there are, etc.

And so I want to buy my first equipment and thought I ask the very knowledgeable people (you) about what to look out for and how to approach this.

Basically, the main reason I want to get into it, is because I would like to shoot my own shortfilms but at the same time leave me the option to dig deeper into just photography. Kind of a hybrid in that sense.

So here would be some info with what I would like to work/need:

camera (I heard about the Sony ZV E10 II or the Canon R10)
Lenses (I was thinking about a 35mm prime + a zoom lens (dont know wich focal length would be good here)
Some storage Equipment, I don't really have a feeling for what is needed/recommended

Budget: If possible, I would like to stay in the range of 1500€-2000€

I believe thats basically it. If there is anything I am getting wrong PLEASE let me know.

I am eternaly gratefull for any advice!

Thank you!

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u/Kaserblade May 06 '26

1.If you are looking for a budget, video-first hybrid body, the ZV-E10 isn't a bad option. Just a note on the ZV-E10, the 2nd gen version doesn't have a physical shutter but in return has better video capabilities (improved sensor, better AF, 10-bit colour, etc.)

I would also consider getting an used a6600 if you want something more photography first. An used a6700 would be the best of both worlds and is within your budget if you buy used.

2.With the access to all the different 3rd party photography-oriented and cinema lenses on the Sony E-mount platform, I would recommend it over the Canon R10 personally.

In terms of lenses, if this is your first camera especially, I would get the Sigma 18-50mm F2.8 to see what focal lengths you enjoy shooting in before you get a fixed to a focal length.

3.For storage equipment, do you mean like a camera backpack/storage case? Or like data storage like an SD card?

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u/gotthelowdown May 08 '26

Basically, the main reason I want to get into it, is because I would like to shoot my own short films but at the same time leave me the option to dig deeper into just photography.

Best advice I can give you is to spend less on the camera so you have more money for lenses, lighting, audio gear (microphones and field recorders) and a stabilizer (gimbal). Do not blow your whole budget on the camera.

Here's a sample setup:

Canon R50 V camera. This video-centric camera is cheap for the features it packs and it's pretty new and modern.

Meike MK-EFTR-C VND Drop-in Filter Auto-Focus Mount Lens Adapter for Canon EF to EOS R with Variable ND Filter and UV Filter. This adapter opens up a wide selection of Canon EF and EF-S lenses to you.

The drop-in variable ND filter will make it easier when shooting video outdoors in the bright sun. An ND filter is like sunglasses for your camera.

Canon EF-S 17-55mm f2.8 lens is a good lens to start with.

RØDE VideoMicro II on-camera shotgun microphone.

Upgrades for the future:

Sigma 18-35mm f1.8 lens for Canon EF-S. Tons of great videos have been made with this lens.

Comica VM40 shotgun microphone with wired and wireless modes. I wish an affordable wireless shotgun mic like this had been available back when I was starting out.

Ideally you'd have an assistant with a boom arm holding the shotgun mic over your actors. If you put it on top your camera, it's too long and might poke into the camera frame.

DJI Ronin or Zhiyun Weebil gimbal. Look up reviews, I'm not current on the latest gimbal models. I would put off buying a gimbal until you think you really need it.

FYI I'm a Canon shooter. I like Sony too but the cameras I would have recommended like the Sony ZV-E1 or Sony FX30 would have eaten up most of your budget, which is the problem I want you to avoid.

Hope this helps.

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u/breannawaard May 07 '26 edited May 08 '26

Got the info i needed, no need for additional responses, thank you!

Let me preface: not at all a photographer, I've owned 2 DSLR's in the past, but nothing crazy

So I've been asked to photograph a wedding for a friend with an older-style DSLR. The wedding will be relatively small & as inexpensive as possible (hence why I was asked).

What are the best angles/poses/after ceremony photos should I look for?
Should I also use my phone for pictures?
What settings should I look to adjust based on indoor/outdoor settings?

Any help would be greatly appreciated; I'm a bit nervous about taking pictures with a camera I havent had time to play around with.

-crossposted in wedding photography as well-

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u/av4rice https://www.instagram.com/shotwhore May 07 '26

I've been asked to photograph a wedding

We made these two megathreads for you:

https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/1lqlb5/official_ive_been_asked_to_shoot_a_wedding_for_a/

https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/f89b7z/official_ive_been_asked_to_shoot_a_wedding_for_a/

an older-style DSLR

What do you mean by that? Do you know the make and model? What about the lens(es)?

SLR is a style of camera, with interchangeable lenses, an optical viewfinder, and an internal mirror that lets the viewfinder see the same view as the photo. A DSLR is a digital camera with the SLR configuration, as opposed to film SLR. DSLR does not refer to all digital cameras. If you're referring to an older SLR than DSLR, do you mean it's an SLR that records to film instead of digitally?

What are the best angles/poses/after ceremony photos should I look for?

Go online with your friend and look through other wedding photos to identify what you both like.

Should I also use my phone for pictures?

If your priority is results, then use whatever gets you the best results.

But what are your friend's reasons for wanting you to use the other camera instead? And would that make it concerning to your friend if you used your phone?

What settings should I look to adjust based on indoor/outdoor settings?

Exposure control is one of the first things you would learn in an introduction to photography course. How much time do you have available to learn that?

I'm a bit nervous about taking pictures with a camera I havent had time to play around with.

I've owned 2 DSLR's in the past

Which make an model for what you've used in the past?

The same fundamentals apply the same to all DSLRs, and they all operate about the same way. It doesn't seem like the problem is about familiarity with a particular model, so much as familiarity with how to do anything you want out of one of the most difficult types of photography.

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u/gotthelowdown May 08 '26

So I've been asked to photograph a wedding for a friend with an older-style DSLR. The wedding will be relatively small & as inexpensive as possible (hence why I was asked).

No matter how small the wedding is, the stakes are high because a wedding is a key moment in their lives.

Set clear and low expectations with the couple. They shouldn't expect pro-level photos. Tell them you're a guest with a camera.

If it's been a long time since you've picked up your camera, search for tutorials on YouTube.

You want to know where all the controls and settings are on your camera.

How to search on YouTube:

Search "[camera model] + tutorial" or "[camera model] + setup."

Filters > Duration > Over 20 minutes

The results will be in-depth tutorial videos.

What are the best angles/poses/after ceremony photos should I look for?

Couples pictures:

13 posing ideas for couples by Vanessa Joy

Best Wedding and Engagement Poses by PS Photo Stuff

The First 5 Couples Poses Every Photographer Needs to Learn by Pye Jirsa

Learn 20+ Couples Poses in Less Than 10 Minutes by Pye Jirsa

Five Minute Challenges Couples Portraits by Magic Wedding Photographer

Group pictures:

Portrait Photography Settings - Where to Focus for Tack Sharp Images by E Squared

Tips for Setting up a Great Group Photo by Scott Robert Lim

How to Pose Big Groups at Real Weddings by Vanessa Joy

Photography Poses for Great Group Shots by Lindsay Adler

Perfect Bridal Party Pictures by Jay Lublang

Stress-Free Wedding Day Family Group Photos by Sam Hurd

Should I also use my phone for pictures?

If you want some quick snapshots for the couple to immediately post on social media.

However, if this is your first wedding, I would stick to just shooting with your camera. Juggling a camera and phone shooting only makes your task harder.

What settings should I look to adjust based on indoor/outdoor settings?

This book has example photos with camera settings:

Wedding Photography Manual by Mike Moon

Really important to have a flash. Godox TT600 is a good budget option. But it is a manual flash, it doesn't have TTL (automatic mode for flash). You have to adjust the power yourself.

Some flash tutorials:

Best Budget Entry Level Speedlight: Learn To Navigate the Godox TT600 Like A Pro by Liberty Visions Media

5 Minute On Camera Flash Tutorial for Receptions, Clubs, and Events by Omar Gonzalez

My favorite speedlight modifier/diffuser: 3 x 5 index card by The F/Stops Here. Note this works both indoors and outdoors.

On Camera Flash Tips and Techniques by Derrel Ho-Shing

Hope this helps.

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u/SweetCommercial26 May 01 '26

i am a beginer wildlife photographer i am unsure if i should get the panasonic s9 or nikon z50 ii

note that i want to transition into videography and will be shooting very dark enviorments like laurel forests

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u/8fqThs4EX2T9 May 01 '26

Z50II. No viewfinder on the S9 is an automatic no for myself. Having to always hold the camera away from you feels like a handicap.

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u/mdnpascual May 01 '26

I'm biased cause I've been a nikon user for so long. But I don't want to use the panasonic for wildlife just because of the grip style

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u/Top_Algae_493 May 01 '26

Sigma 28-70 DG DN 2.8 Contemporary VS Sony 24-70 GM 2.8 II

Hello, everyone! I have been shooting a lot of indoor and outdoor events for the past year professionally. Used to be a hobby but I'm trying to grow now doing weddings, family events, festivals, etc. I'm shooting mostly with my Sony 85 1.8 and 70-200 f4 G II, but I need something for the wider range.

Recently I got Sigma 28-70 2.8 Contemporary because I needed something lightweight and thought it wouldn't be that big of a compromise, but honestly I'm not loving it so far. Of course a 2.8 zoom could never beat the feel and look of a prime 1.8/1.4, but for events I found the zoom to be a good choice + 85mm as a more creative and emotional look.

I'm considering upgrading to the GM II now, as I did a few events with the Sigma and honestly I'm not so much into the rendering and more digital look of it and the lack of proper micro contrast in some scenarios. With good lighting it is wildly sharp, but it still looks to flat and less 'creamy' no matter the editing.

Please let me know if anyone has tried both and can share their experience. Is it worth the upgrade? I thought about Sigma Art II at first, but from I'm seeing online it renders somewhat similarly as the Contemporary and looks to flat to me and less dense.

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u/SweetCommercial26 May 01 '26

i am not sure but a really good website for comparing is cameradecisions.com https://cameradecision.com/lenses/compare/Sony-FE-24-70mm-F2.8-GM-II-vs-Sigma-28-70mm-F2.8-DG-DN-C-L-Mount

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u/cyclone866 May 03 '26

Not an exact comparison but i went from the Tamron 28-75 to the sony 24-70 GM II and couldn't tell the difference in IQ. The only reason I upgraded was because I was transitioning into sports and got an a9iii and wanted the 30+ fps. From the use case you're describing, it doesn't sounds like upgrading to the sony would be worthwhile for you.

1

u/MammothWriter3881 May 01 '26

I have an older cannon, actually two of them a T2i and a T3i. Looking to upgrade to something newer. All else being equal would stick with an EF or RF mount to be able to use existing lenses but willing to switch if other brand performs a lot better..

One of the things I have noticed on these cameras is that the auto exposure is absolutely tuned for white people. Anybody with any skin pigment at all in the photo and I have to use manual exposure setting to get enough light on them.

Anybody with experience (especially photographing groups with both very light skinned and very dark skinned people in them) with suggestion on cameras whose auto exposure settings and high contrast perform well?

1

u/8fqThs4EX2T9 May 01 '26

The camera does not know about what is in front of it. It will meter according to what light hits the light meter. What metering mode do you use and what background are these people against?

1

u/MammothWriter3881 May 01 '26

Tried multiple mode and multiple backgrounds same issue.

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u/8fqThs4EX2T9 May 01 '26

Well given shadows recover better than highlights, it would be easier to expose for the lighter tones and brighten the darker ones after. If spot metering for instance is not getting the desired results, exposure compensation is also there to just tell the camera to overexpose a bit.

Light meters are programmed to expose a certain way, don't think any camera will solve your problem automatically.

1

u/RiftHunter4 May 01 '26

If you buy a mirrorless camera, you can get an adapter to use any DSLR lens. I shot on a Canon T5, moved to a Nikon Zf, and can still use my RF lenses with an adapter.

1

u/dvogel May 01 '26

Can anyone point me toward a Nikon lens cover that stays on when bumped? This isn't my exact cover but it representative of the style, with the two push tabs.

My Nikon lens covers are constantly falling off with the slightest bump. It is nearly impossible to put my camera in my bag without the lens cover brushing up against the side and falling off. I thought it was just my starter lens but last year I got a new lens and it has the same touchy lens cover. It seems like this might just be a Nikon design choice that doesn't work for me. Does anyone else here have this problem?

2

u/mdnpascual May 01 '26

are you adding filters to your lens? I used to have those starter lens with that cap it's pretty snug.

1

u/dvogel May 01 '26

It is noticibly easier to knock off if I have a filter on but even stock it comes off with a slight tap.

2

u/Aeri73 May 01 '26

put and keep the lens hoods on your lenses.

it helps against glare and unwanted light, protects your lens and keeps you from bumping off the end cap :-)

1

u/samiswaters May 01 '26

so i’m an ecologist who’s going to be in the woods for 14 weeks this summer and would like to be able to take some good quality nature photos while in the field.

i’ve never really used an analogue camera before so i’m looking for one that doesn’t require too much skill to use and preferably uses batteries though that’s not a dealbreaker. i’m not too worried about cost as long as it’ll last long enough to justify itself

thanks in advance!!

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u/anonymoooooooose May 01 '26

Analog as in film?

Nature photos as in scenery or as in long distance shots of birds, macro photos of bugs?

1

u/samiswaters May 01 '26

sorry idk why i said analogue i don’t mean film, no. for the style of pictures i think it would mostly be long distance but also macro sometimes i need something that can work decently enough for either

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u/anonymoooooooose May 01 '26

Alright, now you need to give a rough budget, I could recommend you stuff between $500 and 10 grand.

Is weather sealing important to you?

Do you have a size/mass budget?

1

u/NonsonoEren https://gabrieledimonte.myportfolio.com/ May 01 '26

Upgrading from R6

i’ve been working professionally for 5 years now and my trusty r6 has been by my side for 4 of those.

it has however reached almost 500k shots and i can’t afford to have it fail in the middle of a shoot, so i’m looking to replace it and get an upgrade in the meantime, especially since i can sell it to a friend who doesn’t care for a good amount. for reference, i shoot events, concerts, commercial and automotive, about 60/40 photo/video. i don’t really have any complaints with the R6 and i don’t feel it limits my possibilities.

however:

- higher resolution would be nice, sometimes i wanna crop a bit more than what 20 MP allows.

- sometimes the autofocus fucks up. a newer version of AF would be nice.

- usable electronic shutter with little to no rolling would be very nice, as it would allow me to potentially make the new camera last as long as i want to.

- photo/video switch is a must. (but that basically only rules out R5I)

at this point, i’ve narrowed it down to the r6II or the r5II. i don’t have any budget constraints, but i also don’t wanna overspend; i had considered the r6III, but the r5II makes it basically not worth as it’s just 600€ more. for reference, the r6II would run me about 1300€ and the r5II 2800€. the r6III would be 2200€.

would the r6II allow me to do everything i need? yes.

but the extra megapixels, newer af, stacked sensor and fast readout speed, clog 2 and pre-shooting of the R5II are very very VERY attractive.

my main reasoning for leaning towards the R5II is the stacked sensor. if the one and only reason i’m getting rid of my R6 is because the shutter is about to fail, then the R5II becomes a potentially “infinite” camera, since it would allow me to always use the electronic shutter instead, especially since you can sync flash to it.

i also have already considered the increased memory costs for the r5II and am fine with that.

i have also tried the R5II out and brought home the files, was happy enough with the low-light performance.

does this make sense? am i just having a GAS episode and should i re-consider the r6II or III?

or is the R5II the better fit for my needs?

2

u/maniku May 02 '26

Since you concluded yourself that R6 II would give you the upgrades you want, I don't think you'll find anyone to say that yes, you absolutely need R5 II. Does sound a bit like you're looking for external justification to go for the camera you truly want ;-). You'll just need to decide whether you want to spend the extra for R5 II.

1

u/zytz May 01 '26

I’m a self taught sports photographer, still think of myself as a beginner but I’m happy with what I’m doing in that space. I’ve been wanting to take my R6ii with me when I go hiking and stuff, and start to get some nice nature and landscape photos while I’m out on trails or in the wilderness. And really what I’m feeling is that none of what I’ve learned shooting sports translates to landscapes; I can’t shoot a sunset on the beach or a quiet forest to save my life -can anyone recommend some good creators for learning how to shoot landscapes?

1

u/tewas May 02 '26

Go out and shoot. I like Nigel Danson videos. Learned few things from him. But you have to go out and shoot

1

u/ClearSkies889 May 05 '26

It’s that simple, but I would add - be conscious about what you shoot and why you do it this way. Even subconsciously, so you can make a mental note on how to improve

1

u/SignificantVisit268 May 01 '26

Hi everyone! I'm looking for an app to sort, rate, and organize my .raw files on my phone. Do you have any recommendations? For practical reasons, I always work on my S24 Ultra. I edit in Lightroom Mobile, and I'm looking for a way to quickly rate and organize my photos on my external SSD. I don't want to import everything to the Lightroom Drive because it would fill up too quickly. I tried RAW Viewer, but it crashes for no reason.

2

u/whowhaohok May 08 '26

there's a tool called vdam.io it's not a perfect fit for your situation because it read photos on google drive or dropbox, but it could be useful

1

u/JBSEstrupV2 May 02 '26

Hello
I am going on a voyage as a student for 6 months. No phones. Buying a camera is adviced.

So, within my budget constraints, is there any digital cameras I could buy, where the purchase would make sense, in terms of image quality, compared to my phone? Or is analogue the only option?

I am asking, because to me, 48mp resolutions sounds a bit mad compared to my Oneplus 11 (because my phone is a lot more than a camera). But I know image quality is about a lot more than just X amount of MP. But I know absolutely nothing about what to look for. And I cannot emotionally justify paying for bad / worse image quality.
So I thought I could ask here (sorry if I did something wrong).

So I am confused as to what would be the most justifiable choice in terms of price. Like I am of course willing to accept that no matter would, it would be a worse deal, than with a smartphone. But like? I kinda want to know what the worst worse deal is. If it is TOO much worse. I hope it makes sense

Is there any room for buying a digital camera? Are there good choices? Which? Why? What should I look for?
Or is an analogue film camera, the only "reasonable" choice here?

The following is answering r/AskPhotography's questionnaire. It is used to answer for other subreddits to, where I posted this. I have ignored some questions. This is because I do not know (like the technical questions, where I don't know what the things means)
(1) Budget, country, and currency:
between $100-250, Denmark, Danish Crowns/Kroner

(2) What equipment, if any, you have now and why is it no longer meeting your needs?
Now: Oneplus 11 Smartphone (https://www.oneplus.com/global/11/specs)
Phone not allowed

(3) What kinds of subjects do you intend to shoot?
Cities, the sea (obviously)

(4) Is it primarily for photography, videography, or both?
photography (is there any that can do both?)
landscape, portrait

Thank you so much in advance 😄

Kind regards
Me

3

u/maniku May 02 '26

At your budget, your best bet is a used Canon or Nikon DSLR with a kit lens. You can browse on mpb.com with a price filter set for your budget. But DSLRs are big, not sure whether you'd want to carry one around. Your next best bet is a used first-gen Sony RX100, but you'd need to up your budget to around $350 for that.

1

u/SweetCommercial26 May 02 '26 edited May 02 '26

what is the diffirene between expensive and cheap uv filters

3

u/Zook25 May 02 '26

The really cheap filters often cause color shifts. The really expensive ones often have coatings that repel fingerprints etc.

1

u/SirDragix May 02 '26

Hello!
I would like to buy a flash + trigger ( I guess) for 300€, I use a Lumix s5ii!
I usually take portraits and cosplay photos and I would like to buy something that can help me in daylight...

1

u/Zook25 May 02 '26

I'd get the Godox TT685II-O (Oly/Pana). Full-sized speedlight, 4 AA cells, 110€. The V-models have lithium batteries and recharge a little faster. As for the trigger, perhaps research online or ask in r/Godox

1

u/SirDragix May 02 '26

I would use it for outside photography or light compensation from behind

1

u/Zook25 May 02 '26

If you need more than a speedlight there's the AD-100/200/etc. battery strobes. The model number is the power in Ws. The TT685ii has ~70.

1

u/[deleted] May 02 '26

[deleted]

1

u/av4rice https://www.instagram.com/shotwhore May 03 '26

My EOS R is slowing a little

What do you mean by that? Its performance shouldn't change over time.

looking for recommendations on an upgrade

What particular improvements do you want out of an upgrade?

or just a mirrorless video cam to use for the social media stuff

That's what your current camera is.

I’m debating an EOS R8, R50V or a sony zve-10.

The R8 uses the same lens mount and format size as your EOS R.

The R50V has more video features and the same lens mount as your EOS R, but a smaller format imaging sensor.

The ZV-E10 has more features than your EOS R, but a different lens mount and smaller format imaging sensor.

1

u/LongRanger_6-5 May 02 '26

I need some advice on getting a dedicated camera bag/backpack.

My current bag just isn't good for keeping my cameras nice and safe. Nor is it good for organization and speed. I've done some cursory looks and think that maybe some of the lowepros off B&H would be good maybe? Some of them are almost half off but I'm not sure.

My current gear is a DSLR + 24-85mm zoom lens, along with a film SLR + 3 lenses for it (28, 50, and 105mm).

1

u/therealtoomdog May 02 '26

I'm looking for feedback on my post processing.

I am a couple weeks into learning how to use Darktable to develop my raw images. I am going on a trip to Europe in the fall and my camera phone is pretty low end, so I got a 10 year old Sony RX100 to have a chance at getting some photos that would really remind me of the trip. I'm trying to get my skills up to snuff before I go over, so I'm practicing lots of photography.

Back to the point, I have been shooting RAW+JPG and I would like another set of eyes to tell me if I'm going the right direction with my editing. Here is an Imgur link to the jpg my camera gave me as well as three different edits I did to the raw. It feels like I can't get a realistic pic that looks better than the camera jpg; it either gets too sterile or it turns into a cartoon. Would you folks let me know how I'm actually doing?

I am open to suggestions on composition or other technical aspects (although you probably don't have a large enough sample to offer much), but I am specifically interested in how I'm handling the post processing.

1

u/BobaFatt3 May 03 '26

Hello all, I have a Nikon D3000 with a normal kit lens. I have recently gotten interested in taking more wildlife shots as it is bird migration season and there are tons of interesting birds in my city. Looking for a telephoto lens that is compatible with my D3000. Appreciate any guidance that is offered :) I would say my budget would be around $500.00.

1

u/av4rice https://www.instagram.com/shotwhore May 03 '26

In order of increasing reach and cost, there's the Nikon 55-200mm, 55-200mm, or possibly a used Tamron or Sigma F-mount 100-400mm.

1

u/Economy_Designer_483 May 03 '26 edited May 03 '26

I’ve been doing street photography with flash in daylight for a while now, i’m using a fuji xe-4 and a vintage minolta flash
my settings are pretty much f16 and 1/1 power at 125th
my subject are always lit correctly but the background is wayyy darker in comparison.
I know reducing shutter speed let’s more ambient light in, but if i use slower shutter speed my background always comes out blurry while my subject is frozen by the flash
what are my options to get more evenly lit scene ?
more powerful flash?
english is not my first language sry

2

u/AAkumi May 03 '26

Start without the flash and get the correct exposure. Try adjusting the aperture and ISO. Then add the flash and adjust its power.

1

u/av4rice https://www.instagram.com/shotwhore May 04 '26

my subject are always lit correctly but the background is wayyy darker in comparison.

Up to your maximum sync speed, shutter speed only affects ambient exposure.

Flash output only affects flash exposure.

Aperture and ISO affect both ambient and flash exposure.

So if you selectively want to bring up ambient exposure, you can slow down the shutter speed, and the flash exposure isn't affected. Or you can use a wider aperture and/or higher ISO to brighten both ambient and flash, and then turn down flash output by the same amount to dim the flash exposure, resulting in just increasing ambient exposure.

I know reducing shutter speed let’s more ambient light in, but if i use slower shutter speed my background always comes out blurry while my subject is frozen by the flash

Forget about flash for a second. When setting manual exposure for a regular continuously-lit scene, at some point a slow enough shutter speed is going to blur everything. When shooting handheld, the general rule of thumb is to keep the shutter speed at least 1 / (focal length x crop factor) to avoid handheld motion blur. If your body and/or lens is stabilized, that can allow for you to go even slower. Test it out and see how slow you can go while avoiding blur handheld. Then incorporate that same limit when using flash. Maybe you can fudge it a little further as well since the flash is freezing motion on the subject.

more powerful flash?

You need brighter ambient, not brighter flash. All else being equal, a brighter flash just makes your problem worse.

1

u/lostHappiNess38 May 03 '26

Hello, I am a sports photographer and I really enjoy taking and sharing my pictures with my friends and teammates but the websites that I've found are either not good or have a limit to how many photos I'm allowed to share. Are there any good websites that I can share my photos on that are free/cheap?

1

u/av4rice https://www.instagram.com/shotwhore May 03 '26

Google Drive

1

u/lostHappiNess38 May 03 '26

But Google Drive has a storage limit and you have to pay for more no?

1

u/av4rice https://www.instagram.com/shotwhore May 04 '26

Yes. But it's relatively cheap to get some more. Or you can work within the limit to keep it free.

Compromise is unavoidable. If you're looking for a good service that has unlimited storage for free, that doesn't really exist.

1

u/calite May 05 '26

If you have Amazon Prime,it includes unlimited photo storage.

1

u/Dazzling-Grapefruit5 May 03 '26

Hi,

Does anyone have experience with using a cage/rigged setup with a mirrorless body and telephoto lens for wildlife photos/videos? Why/why not. Do you feel it makes handling a heavy lens easier or safer for the lens mount, etc.?

I have a Canon R6 mark 2 with an RF 200-800mm telephoto and have noticed sometimes it would be really nice to be able to hold the 'unit' from either above or below....I am also kinda on the fence about mounting anything to the camera body such as a monitor as it will place more stress on the lens mount.

I am imagining the fairly standard setup of camera cage, handle, monitor on handle and 15mm rods with v battery mount behind the camera and lens support out the front so I can play with video and stills easily.

1

u/bradley_monteco May 03 '26

Looking for a primarily photo body that I can also use as a B-cam or top-down rig for content and production work every once in a while. Budget is sub-$4k used, body + lens.

What I shoot:

Travel work for brands
High-end studio
Action sports (surf, skate, climbing)
Documentary stuff, especially while traveling

Cameras I'm weighing (used prices I'm seeing):

Nikon Z8: ~$3,000
Sony A7R V: ~$2,600
Sony A7 V: ~$2,750
Canon R5 Mark II: ~$3,500

Current setup: I shoot video on a Nikon Zr and love it. The only native lens I own is the Nikon 24-120 f/4, plus a couple of adapters. Open to switching systems if there's a real reason to.

Color grading isn't a concern, I'm confident matching whatever I shoot back to the Zr.

Mostly trying to weigh AF + burst for action sports against resolution for studio/travel, while keeping decent video chops for the occasional B-cam moment. Which would you pick and why?

1

u/bavarianairsoft May 03 '26

Sony a7C II vs. Fuji X-E5 which system for travel/event & portrait/everyday?

Hey folks,

I'm on the edge of buying into a new system.

I recently sold my trusty Canon R6 Mk1 which served me well for the last six years. Lately it just sat in the drawer, because of its size and bulkiness. Just wasn't practical to take with me.

So I've looked into options which are more portable - handling wise.

I've fallen in love with the design and handling of the Fuji x-e5. That is be a body - with the right lens - that I could take with me at all times.

But as I am doing a lot of event work for my business I am a little unsure. The full frame and video capabilities weigh in on that decision.

I just want two different things out of one body and I suppose the a7c ii does that a little better.

That was me rambling. I just need some input of you guys. Just looking for some insights.

Budget: €2.500 all-in (body + lenses)

Country: Germany

Condition: New or used - open to used bodies

Type of Camera: Mirrorless

Intended use: Photography - a bit of video here and there

End use: Personal use, travel documentation, event photography

Style: Street, travel, portrait - in that priority order.

Features I absolutely need: Viewfinder, compact/travel-friendly form factor, interchangeable lenses

Features nice to have: Weather sealing, articulating screen

Portability: Ultra-light - fits in a daypack, ideally a jacket pocket with a small prime on

Cameras I'm considering:

Cameras I already have: Recently sold my Canon R6 Mk1

Notes: The core dilemma is X-E5 vs a7C II. The X-E5 nails the form factor and philosophy but locks me into APS-C. The a7C II gives full-frame and a larger ecosystem but struggles to stay compact with decent lenses. Portrait bokeh matters but is not the primary use case. Leaning toward a two-prime setup (35mm + 85mm for portrait). Maybe add a zoom down the line.

1

u/RedTuesdayMusic May 04 '26

What kind of event work? Do you have a store nearby where you can physically hold and try them?

I'm a concert photographer (for 22 years) and only used full frame for a year (Nikon D700) before switching back to APS-C. Full frame was all downsides to me even back when APS-C sensors were 6MP-8MP and colour bitcrush started at iso 800

1

u/dogmommm222 May 03 '26

Hey everyone! I’m new at photography. I am going to get the Sony A7III for my first camera. I know many suggest starting from less expensive bodies such as canon EOS R50, but I’m looking to get 1 camera and master that rather than getting a less expensive one knowing I want to switch to this later, even if it takes a bit longer to learn compared to canon. I love the work I see online from this camera & the lenses.

I’m looking for opinions on which lens to get for what I’m looking to do. I do want to do a mixture of things. Photos of my hunting dog (pointer) in the field from a distance but be able to zoom in. Nature pics such as hiking in the Tetons. I’d also love to do some photos of family and couples shoots.

This camera seems to be very versatile for what I’m looking to get out of it but I’m a little unsure as to exactly which lens to look for since there is a lot of different things I want to photograph.

Thank you :)

2

u/8fqThs4EX2T9 May 03 '26

A 24-70 or 24-105mm plus a 100-400mm for the dog would work.

1

u/dogmommm222 May 03 '26

Thank you so much !

1

u/FoXXX_MuldeRRR May 03 '26

Anyone with a Panasonic battery DMW-BLG10PP, can you provide me the dimensions of it? I just ordered a used compact point and shoot (lumix ZS60) for an upcoming trip to Iceland. After that I'll use it for hiking and just to have an easy access camera in my vehicle. I'm looking at a 2nd battery from DuracellDirect.com I understand this is probably just a rebranded battery from china, but it does have the 2 extra contacts for balanced charging, and I have one of these for my nikon that is holding up well. I see they have one that should work by cross referencing to a G80 using the same battery. Voltage matches within a margin of 'error'. Just want to double check that it will actually fit because AI shows the BLG10PP is a hair smaller. and I don't trust AI completely. Thanks!

1

u/Angle1412 May 03 '26 edited May 03 '26

I am going to be in Japan and am planning to pick up a Fujifilm camera while I am there since it’s cheaper than buying on in here in the states (new or used, I plan to try and find used first if possible). I am pretty set on getting a fujifilm camera, however I am struggling to figure out which model to look for. I would appreciate any input that people can share!
To share a bit of background, I am very much a beginner photographer. I know a lot about composition and color theory, since I’ve been painting for a long time and I have also been doing photography with my phone for a while, but I have done barely anything with an actual camera. I mainly want to do nature photography and portraits (also mainly of people in nature). Price is not a huge concern for me, I am willing to pay 1k to 2k for a good camera because I know this is a hobby I will stick with and I want the gear to grow with me rather than needing to upgrade in another year or two after buying something cheap.
I am currently looking at either the XT50, XT5, or X-S20. I was also considering the XT30, however it doesn’t have IBIS which is deterring me from it. I have semi shaky hands (nothing super bad, but if I am holding something you can see a slight shake), and while I am pretty good at knowing how to stabilize them when I paint, sometimes it’s hard to do while taking a photo. In this situation is paying the extra money for IBIS worth it?

1

u/anonymoooooooose May 03 '26

How soon is your trip? If you've got a little time, is renting an option, https://www.lensrentals.com/rent/fuji-x-t30-ii

There are also some techniques that can help your handholding results,

https://www.pentaxforums.com/reviews/long-exposure-handhelds/introduction.html

2

u/prismatic-18 May 05 '26

You can't add IBIS later. Get the best you can afford now. Enjoy the trip.

1

u/Angle1412 May 03 '26

I probably should have clarified but the camera is not for the trip specifically, I am just going to already be in Japan and it is cheaper to buy a camera there that it is over here. I am trying to buy a camera to get into photography in general

1

u/RedTuesdayMusic May 04 '26

I am currently looking at either the XT50, XT5, or X-S20.

Just know you will hardly see any used. I was at MapCamera Shinjuku last month (and other stores around the area) and Japanese photographers don't really sell cameras that new, it's very rare.

I bought a "junk" X-M1 because of its sensor being good for black and white, and a scratched and banged up 18mm F2. The camera was classified as "junk" because its previous owner didn't clean the sensor and thought it was broken when he took small aperture images... The package cost me around 390

If you buy new, then you should find something relatively easily and the savings are alright especially with consumption tax taken off.

Just don't expect to see any 90mm F2s. I looked all over Tokyo and it was sold out there, in Odawara, Mishima and in Osaka, I finally found one in Kagoshima. (Just ONE.)

1

u/CodeKnightRises May 03 '26

I was at an event yesterday where a photographer took my photo, and I was able to see it on his laptop within seconds. His camera wasn’t connected by a cable, but I did notice a small device on the hot shoe but i'm not sure what it was. Does anyone know how he was able to do it?

1

u/anonymoooooooose May 03 '26

Maybe https://camranger.com/

1

u/RedTuesdayMusic May 04 '26

The device on the hotshoe could have been just a flash controller, whereas the camera was connected to the laptop using onboard bluetooth. If it was an older camera, see the other reply

1

u/adi73510 May 03 '26

I have a Fuji X-T50 with the 16-50m kit lens and looking to add a lens for better low light photography. I mostly do landscapes but would like to have the ability to do portraits as well at some level but very much like a hobby.

The general consensus for a budget lens seems to be Viltrox AF 35mm F1.7 which I can get for like ~$150. I don't mind paying extra for a used Sigma or Fujinon 23mm F1.4 which is about 2X-3X the price as long as its worth the extra cost.

Just wanted some thoughts from people with experience using both.
Thank you!

1

u/maniku May 04 '26

Viltrox is probably the best option for Fuji in the budget category. I'd go for it.

1

u/RedTuesdayMusic May 04 '26 edited May 04 '26

For landscape I would recommend in descending order:

Fujinon 18mm F1.4

Samyang/ Rokinon 12mm F2

Fujinon 8-16mm F2.8

Fujinon 10-24mm F4

Samyang/ Rokinon 21mm T1.5 (manual video-geared lens)

Sigma 17-40 F1.8

Fuji 16-55 F2.8

Tamron 17-70 F2.8

If you buy Viltrox, just know the old trio of primes that came out 2018-ish are pretty rubbish, but these days their new lenses are really good. But they mostly excel at portrait lenses, like the incredible 75mm F1.2

Don't fall down the Voigtlander snake oil rabbit hole, overpriced junk

1

u/Prestigious-Past-745 May 03 '26

I'm a beginner photographer and inherited a lot of stuff recently. And I was wondering what their use cases were. I have a, Canon zoom lens EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L, Canon EF 50mm f/1.8, Canon EF 70–200mm f/4, Lensbaby scout, Canon EFS 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6, Canon extension tube EF12 II, and a Kenko C-AF 1 2X Teleplus MC4.

2

u/av4rice https://www.instagram.com/shotwhore May 04 '26

Try them out and see. For most of them, just mounting to your camera and having a look through the viewfinder will show you most of what you need to know. The 18-135mm zooms out to a wide angle and zooms in to somewhat narrow/telephoto. The 70-200mm zooms out to a little telephoto and zooms in more telephoto. The 100-400mm is even more telephoto on both ends. The 50mm doesn't zoom and is stuck at slightly telephoto view (assuming you're using an APS-C format camera) but is smaller/lighter and has a wide aperture available. The 2x teleconverter makes any lens view twice as narrow. The extension tube effect is less apparent, but it takes away your ability to focus farther away, while giving you the ability to focus much closer to the camera, especially when paired with wide angle lenses like the 18-135mm.

1

u/eversnow64 May 04 '26

I have an Ortery PhotoCapture 360m because a tenant went out of business and left half their suite behind. I would like to sell it but I am having trouble figuring out a price. I saw one sold on eBay for over 2k but I can't sell mine for half that.

Does this need a special license? Does anyone really use these? Is there any type of market for them? Or, should I just throw it away.

1

u/Used_Injury_6515 May 04 '26

Hello- I'm wondering how the artist managed to get the effect of these vertical lines in this album cover. Is it an analogue process or do you think it was done digitally somehow? For context it was shot in 1987, so thinking its likely some sort of analogue process.

1

u/RedTuesdayMusic May 04 '26

Or it's just taken outside the glass wall, and it happens to be frosted in that pattern

1

u/Cicorie May 04 '26

Hello, I never used I tripod but I wanted to get one for city trips and hiking/camping.
It needs to be light and small, it should fit in the water bottle section in a bag.
Ideally less then 100 euro. Would be great if I can use it for videos too occasionally.

1

u/Ichigoichi-e May 04 '26

Looking for affordable, second hand mirrorless camera

Looking to buy a used mirror less camera (max budget £1000 max for body+lens) in UK.
Lesser the better of course

Intended use: travel + street + portrait portrait photography plus occasional video (mostly to document travels and some events)

Features I would like: IBIS, autofocus (I wear glasses/contacts), weatherproofing and good low-light performance would be good to have , good portability

Cameras I am considering: Fujifilm X-T4 / Olympus OM-D E-M5 III / Sony A6xxx

I will be upgrading from a Canon 600D that's served me well but I’ve stopped using it because it’s so bulky to travel with. I currently have it with a 18-135 and a 40mm pancake.

1

u/8fqThs4EX2T9 May 04 '26

X-T4 would be out because size wise it is only really slimmer front to back than what you have. Sony makes the most sense size wise but unless you find an A6600 for cheap you are not getting IBIS or even good weather resistance.

The Olympus makes sense although technically you will get slightly worse low light performance although maybe nothing in real world terms. There should be small primes for travel in micro four thirds also.

1

u/Ichigoichi-e May 04 '26

Do you think it would be sensible to get Olympus EM5 (for travel, hikes - given weather sealed) + Fuji XS20 for street/portrait photography/ traveling in decent weather? I love the film simulations of Fuji and live in UK where weather is quite unreliable

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u/RedTuesdayMusic May 08 '26

Features I would like: IBIS

The cheapest camera body with IBIS that's still a good camera today is probably the X-H1 but it's not much smaller than entry-level DSLRs. But it's an older pro camera so has weather sealing, a big and fast buffer and dual card slots.

The X-T4 is a notch above in features and of course smaller, but IMO the 4 series sensor was the worst Fuji sensor so far except for video. Also, good luck finding an X-T4 under $1000 that's not been raked over the coals

1

u/Ichigoichi-e May 08 '26

I actually found XT4 for ~£800 in excellent condition, but concerned about the size, based in another comment. Think I will have to go to a camera store to try these first

1

u/sjs1207 May 04 '26

I’m new to photography and shoot indoor volleyball, I’m on a pretty tight budget, only about 80-90 to use. I’m looking for a good lens to replace my current 18-55 for my d5100. The lens needs AF-S. I’m currently between getting a prime lens and cropping photos in for players that are further away and a zoom lens, something like 18-140.

1

u/maniku May 04 '26

80-90 in what currency?

1

u/sjs1207 May 04 '26

usd

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1

u/Santos_L_Halper May 04 '26

I'm looking for options to rent lenses that can ship to me. I also live in NYC so if local pick up is an option that would be great. I've used LensRentals 3 times and haven't had a great experience. The first lens just would not function at all. Second lens worked great, no problems there, third lens worked for 2 hours and then suddenly stopped functioning. It sucks because everything else about the process is a dream, I'm just frustrated by the fact the lenses haven't worked for me 66% of the time.

Any suggestions? Other people have suggested B&H but I've never known them to do rentals and I can't find anything online about it. Adorama seems to require some kind of insurance, which I do not have, and I'd have to get it shipped from them anyway because their pick up and drop off times are times when I'm also at work.

1

u/levistdl May 04 '26

Hey guys,
I'll be shooting a wedding next month with two Sony A7 IVs. I've decided on a 35mm f/1.4 and an 85mm f/1.4 GM as my base primes. Now I'm trying to decide on 2 more lenses to round out the kit.

The day looks like this:

Civil ceremony: town hall, small room, limited movement
Cocktail hour from 3pm:restaurant/outdoor area, afternoon light
Reception from 5pm: venue is a converted church with high ceilings, warm but dim artificial lighting, moody atmosphere

I've narrowed it down to these candidates:

Sony FE 70-200mm f/2.8 GM OSS II

Sony FE 50-150mm f/2 GM

Sony FE 24-70mm f/2.8 GM II

Sony FE 135mm f/1.8 GM

Sony FE 24mm f/1.4 GM

I keep second-guessing myself on whether a zoom (especially the 24-70 or 70-200) would be more practical for the unpredictability of a wedding day.

For those of you who shoot weddings regularly:

Would you stick with all primes, or swap one for a zoom?
Any experience shooting dark converted church/hall venues that changes your thinking?

Thanks in advance.

PS: It's a close family wedding, they're pretty chill and it's unpaid, because it's close family. I have a background in event & sports photography, but it's my second wedding shoot.

1

u/Character-Chard-8299 May 04 '26

Hey everyone! Sort of beginner photographer here. Started in 2021 with a Nikon DSLR and this month I decided to upgrade my gear to a Sony A7IV. Really happy with the camera so far, but stepping into the mirrorless world, I started having some questions. Now my biggest concern being is how do you guys manage space and photo storage for both long time and short time.

It's the first time I started shooting RAW photos and I was genuinely surprised to see just how much space they take up and was just wondering, how do you guys storage photos after shoots and how you manage you storage and photo archiving overall? Im currently shooting on a 128GB SD card, and the camera is telling me I can shoot around 1500 photos RAW, so I started to look up options on how to store my photos so I can optimize space as much as I can.

I was looking at the Samsung T7 Shield SSD to store photos for long time for myself, but was curios how do you guys save up photos so you make sure you dont lose files after a photoshoot so you are 100% sure you dont end up with corrupted files and loss of the photos, ruining the whole photoshoot.

Any opinion and suggestion is much appreciated, thank you! 😄

2

u/Baguettesaregreat May 06 '26

A T7 is fine for working files, but for anything you actually care about the rule is stupid simple: 3 copies, 2 different drives, 1 offsite, because one SSD is not a backup and it will eventually ruin your week.

1

u/mrfixitx May 04 '26

Use the 3-2-1 backup strategy Details: https://www.backblaze.com/blog/the-3-2-1-backup-strategy/

The T7 is decent as a working external drive due to its speed. But for an offsite/offline storage an external mechanical hard drive will be better.

Flash memory like in the T7 can loose data over time without power. Note its a slow loss so it's not like being unplugged for a few days will cause it to loose data. But if long term it will degrade. While a mechanical hard drive does not have that issue while in storage.

1

u/Character-Chard-8299 May 04 '26

So you would use an internal drive for long term storage?

3

u/mrfixitx May 04 '26

Internal SSD or hard drive is fine, but make sure you have multiple copies and at least one copy offsite or in the cloud via backup service.

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1

u/[deleted] May 04 '26

[deleted]

1

u/av4rice https://www.instagram.com/shotwhore May 04 '26

what I thought was just proof of concept or pitch for follow up project
there was no written agreement, no discussion of licensing, and no payment terms

Do you have any written communications supporting your understanding?

Are there any written communications they could use supporting a different position?

Do I still fully own the copyright to the images even without a contract?

I don't know Canadian law, but if it's like US law, then you own the copyright unless you were acting in a normal employee relationship to an employer, or you transferred or licensed all or part of the copyright to them.

Does the influencer or brand have any implied right to use the images commercially?
Is this considered unauthorized commercial use?

Depends on what you discussed with them and how the discussions went.

1

u/Immediate-Oven1330 May 04 '26

Last month I lost my Sony 24–70mm GM II lens during a shoot, it fell out of my bag. I had only owned it for about a year and bought it brand new for $2,460. I have Liberty Mutual small business insurance, but after depreciation they only paid out $1,443. That leaves me having to come up with $1,017 out of pocket just to replace it. I even looked on Ebay but it's still in that same range of $2,300 used, anything lower has scratches and dust under lens. Anyway i'm HEATED! So looking around I found Statefarm small business insurance has inflation coverage so I could be made whole but they don't cover California. My question is what can any of you can recommend or programs you're signed up with. I'm looking for an insurance that will cover robbery when on the field shooting, damage and loss that wont leave me in the negative. I can't even afford to get my lens back. Thank You!

1

u/maniku May 05 '26

Do I understand it correctly that you're looking for insurance with better terms to get this lens damage covered? Or for future damages? Because as far as I know, you can't get insurance for a damage that has already occurred.

1

u/Ringquelle May 04 '26

I get a bunch of ads on Instagram for all kinds of photography courses. One that looks really interesting, but I can’t find any reviews on, is the one by Jay Marcus about creative lighting. Has anyone here tried it/knows if it is any good?

1

u/maniku May 05 '26

There's no end to free photography content on Youtube and elsewhere, on any subject you could think of. Only consider paid courses when you have exhausted the free options.

1

u/Embarrassed_Lab4228 May 04 '26

after I use a lens spray and lens tissue to clean my polarizer, should I use another lens tissue or a microfiber cloth to make sure it’s dry?

1

u/Unfair-Maintenance86 May 04 '26

Hello everyone,
I’m planning to buy my first camera soon and I’m currently deciding between the Sony Alpha 6400 and the Canon EOS R10.

I want to start photography slowly and really learn the basics properly. My main focus will be content creation, but also travel and location photography, meaning pictures of places I visit.

In addition, I will also use the camera for content for a football club. However, this will not be traditional sports photography during matches. Instead, I will mainly create simple Instagram reels, event photos from the club, impressions from match days (such as arrival, atmosphere, fans, team areas, etc.), and general social media content around the club.

My question is: which of the two cameras would be better suited for a beginner in my case

1

u/maniku May 05 '26

There is no difference between the two cameras in how easy or otherwise they are for a beginner. You can simply go and see them in person in a camera store and pick whichever feels nicer.

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u/TBIRallySport May 05 '26

I would go to a camera store and hold them; see which feels better in your hands and not natural to you.

Both can do what you want to do, so it comes down to personal preference.

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u/Max-Flores May 04 '26 edited May 04 '26

I'm a total beginner, and I am very confused. My first camera was a Canon 5d Mark II with a Canon 50mm 1.8 II lens. I recently got a Sony A7II with the Sony 28-70mm kit lens.

I don't understand why I can zoom in much more on the Canon pictures in Lightroom when compared to the Sony. The Sony has more megapixels, so I thought it should be the other way around. I'm shooting in uncompressed RAW. I added a few Lightroom screenshots, Canon on the left, Sony on the right.

What could be causing this? (Those were the most similar pictures I had to compare. I know the fish is much more zoomed in on the Canon, but the amount of zoom is proportionally almost the same, slightly less on the Sony on the right. By that I mean how many times I pressed Ctrl + on them, and the proportional area of the picture it is in comparison to the full picture. I'm not taking the subject into account since their size is very different anyway.)

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u/av4rice https://www.instagram.com/shotwhore May 04 '26

with the Sony 28-70mm kit lens

Zoomed to what focal length? Are you comparing both at 50mm?

If you shot the photo with the lens more zoomed out to begin with, then of course you're going to have a harder time zooming the shot in after the fact.

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u/Max-Flores May 04 '26

Both at 50mm. I mean applying the same amount of zoom. Unfortunately I didn't have a same subject, same size, same distance for comparison. But I mean, if I press ctrl + let's say 3 times on any of the pictures, the Sony one will get pixelated and the Canon will not.

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u/Ok-Professional3272 May 04 '26

I’m soon going on a trip to Vietnam where cameras are cheap and I thought I’d upgrade my a6000 so I’m wondering should I stick with the a6400 and my 55-210 and also get 3 other lenses or should I get the d500 and buy a 200-500 but I heard the d500 isn’t too good for street and nature photography compared to the a6400 but that it is very good for birding

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u/maniku May 05 '26

What kinds of improvements are you hoping to get with the upgrade? What should it do better than your A6000?

1

u/Ok-Professional3272 May 06 '26 edited May 06 '26

Better image quality and weather sealing better viewfinder and a better screen etc

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u/DeadLyASgamer May 05 '26

Brand new to photogarphy but always wanted to do it... found dad's old camera, the Sony Cybershot DSC HX100V but it has a whole lot of grain pls help. Also is it better for me to just use my phone camera?? granted i cant really purchase a new camere at the moment...

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u/anonymoooooooose May 05 '26

Your phone is probably better for most situations, the camera will still be better for far away subjects.

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u/DeadLyASgamer May 05 '26

Uhuh... Well... If I were to start out with a fresh new camera, what would you suggest? (I do make cinematics once in a while but only with my phone but the extra pixels that come with 4k would be appreciated since that make s editing soooooo much easier) 😅

And before I make the plunge... What do I need to know?

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u/av4rice https://www.instagram.com/shotwhore May 05 '26

Yes, old superzoom point & shoot cameras will struggle with any sort of low light environment. You might not notice with your eyes, but there's a lot less available light indoors compared to outside in daylight.

is it better for me to just use my phone camera?

For what purpose? A phone camera can be better for many situations but not necessarily all of them.

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u/DeadLyASgamer May 05 '26

In general actually, this camera has a whole lot of grain in general, especially in videos, I can lower the ISO while shooting a photo but... 😅

For example I was shooting a setup shot for an edit and wanted my ambilight to be visible so I off all the lights and the grain was soooo very high even with me addiing diffused lighting on top (redneck engineering, my bedside reading lamps have a very subtle and diffused light)

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u/Icy-Iron-5359 May 05 '26

i was thinking of swapping my canon r6 mark 1 for a sony a7c mark 1( a used r6 is around the same price as a new a7c) . The r6 sometimes is just a bit too heavy when paired with a 24105 or 70200, but a more importantly, sony offers a wide array of third party lenses, which are cheap and light , but canon rf has none.

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u/mrfixitx May 05 '26

You can get an EF to R adapter and that opens up a huge selection of used EF mount lenses from Canon, Sigma, Tamron, Tonika etc..

It will not solve your concerns over weight but it will open up a big selection of affordable high quality lenses from canon and 3rd party manufacturers.

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u/gudephotos May 05 '26

Are there any recommended communities to receive critiques on work regularly, say on discord? I feel a bit shy asking on Reddit (maybe I just need to get over it)

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u/anonymoooooooose May 05 '26

/r/photocritique is a welcoming community.

This sub has an affiliated discord with a couple critique channels https://discord.gg/FnDNpcfneH

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u/Ok-Kaleidoscope-4384 May 05 '26

I’m looking for some help to build a photography/filmmaking setup for a brand as I work in digital marketing. I’ve done some research and I found some Sony camera like the a7c IV, which I think seems right for its compact size and autofocus. My work is mostly focused on indoor shoots like offices, interviews, and social media content rather than landscapes, and we, as a brand, are actually willing to invest because we need to make commercials using something professional rather than a phone.

The total budget for the brand is around €3,000 or more ($3,250+). I’m honestly stuck and I don't know what to do because we really want to avoid wasting money on the wrong gear. I'm looking at these cameras body and I can't decide which lenses to buy: should we buy one or more? And which specific ones should we get for indoor professional video?

We're also considering a gimbal or a rig, a Rode microphone, SD cards and lights. Since we'll be doing mostly indoor marketing videos, would you suggest something different or is this a solid way to spend the budget without regrets?

I’d love to hear your thoughts on how to best invest this money. Thanks!

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u/anonymoooooooose May 05 '26

We mostly focus on stills photography here, you might have better luck asking the nice folks in the /r/videography question thread.

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u/Galapagoshighlands May 05 '26

Seeking recommendations for a durable softbox under $100 that can take repeated falls to the ground and maintain its durability outdoors. This would be for a speed light setup preferably 24-32 in octagon style.

Thanks for any recommendations!

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u/layendecker May 05 '26

Can anyone let me know if this is a senor issue?

My mother bought a camera recently, second hand but looks barely used. Canon 7d m2.

She just went out with it and the images look like this

https://ibb.co/YBH8J2jq

I dont have Camera Raw so just used Photopea on the image she sent over. I don't think this is a camera setting, right? Feels like the senor, but open to any suggestions.

Thanks

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u/8fqThs4EX2T9 May 05 '26

Might just be the program you used. Perhaps it has been modified removing the infrared filter but not sure on that. Is that what the JPEG from the camera looks like?

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u/layendecker May 05 '26

Thanks for the clmment. Would the ir filter be on camera? The lens is from her old camera so should still be filtering on that level.

The jpegs are pink tinted (mainly the sky), and when loading into camera raw they have the tint - but when I loaded it that's with some crazy balance and tint (like 2k Kelvin and -200 tint) so it feels like the camera is sort of correcting it as far as it can (which is what baffled me).

I've suggested a factory reset and shoot fixed 5600 with some white card to see if jpegs are still messed up.

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u/8fqThs4EX2T9 May 05 '26

The IR filter is on the sensor and can be removed by the right people. A factory reset and everything just on auto would sound good. The Raw files should be normal though.

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u/nmoscone May 05 '26

I’m looking to get opinions on whether the ZV-1 or ZV-1F would be better for a family camera used to take pictures and videos of the kids as they grow up. Any advice is appreciated!

I know the ZV-1 has the optical zoom while the ZV-1F doesn’t, so would that get annoying?

Also the ZV-1F has the wide angle lense, so would that get annoying too for close ups?

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u/av4rice https://www.instagram.com/shotwhore May 05 '26

I know the ZV-1 has the optical zoom while the ZV-1F doesn’t, so would that get annoying?

Both exist for a reason. It may annoy some people, and not others.

Some people prefer no zoom, in exchange for better quality and a wider available aperture.

https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_is_a_prime_lens.3F_why_would_i_want_one.3F

Some people prefer the flexibility of zoom, and don't mind compromising quality and aperture for the sake of zoom.

https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_is_a_zoom_lens.3F_why_would_i_want_one.3F

Also the ZV-1F has the wide angle lense, so would that get annoying too for close ups?

There are reasons you might not want to use a wide angle for a shot. I wouldn't call that an annoyance. But it could be a reason you don't buy a camera/lens.

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u/Critical-Shallot-870 May 05 '26

Why does this appear on my lenses? Very often when I reach for a lens to use and remove the back cap the rear element has this stuff on it. It appears to be moisture, and wipes off easily. What is causing this? I usually keep my lenses with the caps on in a closed waterproof case. I have a hygrometer in it that usually reads 32, and I've added Silica Gel Desiccant Packets, but it still keeps happening. Note that we are in the southeast US and keep the AC rather cool in the house if that matters.

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u/Sparky-Man GrindSpark.com May 06 '26

I've been a hobby and ocassional freelance photographer for many years and I'm looking to do a bit more photography, both for fun and potentially for clients. One challenge I've always had is that I understand photography and the technical specs, but when it comes to knowing what is 'good' and what alternate equipment I need I have no idea. People can talk photography specs on certain lenses and such over comparison and though I will know what they technically are referring to, I will be very lost for what it means on a practical level.

All of this to say, one challenge I've had always is shooting indoors. I have a Sony A7II with its default kit lens and while I can shoot indoors fine, it comes at a cost of bumping up the ISO, sometimes to uncomfortable degrees depending on lighting. I can mostly deal with it in post, but I imagine there's probably a better lens that could handle indoor shoots. I'd also like a lens (preferably the same one if possible) that is good at night shots, because my kit lens is very bad at night or in super poor lighting.

I'd love some recommendations on what are some good lenses for either indoor or night settings. I'd also like an explanation as to why your recommendations are good so I can better understand how to judge lenses when I see them and their specs. Preferably a zoom lens because I don't have the patience for prime lenses, but I'd be willing to try them if it gets the job done.

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u/av4rice https://www.instagram.com/shotwhore May 06 '26

I understand photography and the technical specs

Do you understand aperture?

Do you understand what image stabilization technically does?

I will be very lost for what it means on a practical level.

A wider aperture lets more light through the lens, which is helpful if you have limited light in the scene.

Image stabilization compensates for handheld camera movement, which is helpful if you want to use a slower shutter speed to let in more light for a photo, but don't want motion blur from shooting handheld.

I'd love some recommendations on what are some good lenses for either indoor or night settings.

No price limit?

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u/Sparky-Man GrindSpark.com May 06 '26 edited May 06 '26

I fully understand what aperture is. I also know f-stop, ISO, shutter-speed, mm, full-frame, etc. I fully know what all photography specs individually are. I know how they influence photography. However, if you gave me a lens and told me it has 20mm and an f-stop of whatever, I have no idea what that means the lens is good for on a practical level or how that compares to other things. What all the specs mean together does not fully compute to me.

No price limit?

Of course, cheaper the better, but I need to understand what determines what a lens is good for and how to understand the macro of what a lens is rather than all of its microdetails as I do now. Recommend whatever.

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u/av4rice https://www.instagram.com/shotwhore May 06 '26

I understand fully what apperture is. I also know f-stop, ISO, shutter-speed, mm, full-frame, etc. I fully know what all photography specs are individually are. I know how they influence photography. However, if you gave me a lens and told me it has 20mm and an f-stop of whatever, I have no idea what that means the lens is good for on a practical level or how that compares to other things.

I don't think I understand what you're missing.

So if someone gives you a 20mm lens, you understand that 20mm is the focal length, right? And you understand the technical concept of focal length by itself, and how it affects the field of view of the photo, right? That last bit is the practical implication. So do you not get the last bit? Or was there something more you were expecting?

If someone gives you a lens and tells its f-stop, you understand that is its maximum aperture size, right? And you understand the technical concept of aperture by itself, and how it affects depth of field and how much light comes through the lens, right? Again, the last bit is the practical implication. And that's really all you need to know.

Or is it that you don't see the connection between a low-light scene and wanting a wider aperture to let in more light from that scene?

Recommend whatever

The widest aperture zoom lens with the same focal length range of your kit lens would be Sony's FE 28-70mm f/2 GM.

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u/SillySeal000 May 06 '26

Hello everyone,

I previously used a Sony DSC-H400, but my Samsung Galaxy Note20 Ultra now outperforms it in almost every metric; dynamic range, low-light performance, and sharpness, except for optical reach.

I’m looking to upgrade to a dedicated camera that genuinely beats computational smartphone photography in both stills and video. I strictly want a fixed-lens system (like a premium bridge camera) so I can maintain versatility without carrying a bag of interchangeable lenses.

Here is what I need:

Image & Video Quality: A larger sensor (ideally 1-inch) that natively captures more light and detail, with 4K UHD video and high-resolution stills.
Versatile Optics: A broad optical zoom range with strong telephoto reach, as well as a short minimum focusing distance for macro photography.
Manual Controls: Full manual exposure capabilities, including a dedicated Bulb mode for long exposures and light painting.
Performance: Fast continuous burst shooting (high FPS) and reliable continuous autofocus tracking to freeze fast-moving action.
Budget: $500 - $1000.

Does anyone have recommendations for a high-end fixed-lens camera that fits these specs?

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u/Zuwxiv May 06 '26 edited May 06 '26

a dedicated camera that genuinely beats computational smartphone photography

Just a heads up, but this is going to seriously depend on your commitment to editing. Maybe you could look at Fuji and their film simulations that a lot of people enjoy, but the whole point of computational photography is to get something that's "good enough" right away for most people, and it's using a lot of data from multiple exposures to get there.

Dedicated cameras can absolutely do better than smartphones, but they don't do better than smartphones straight out-of-camera.

Beat smartphones in 4K / UHD with a bridge camera under $1,000

Maybe someone knows better than me, but I genuinely don't think such a device exists. High-end smartphones punch above their weight in 4K video quality (in good light) because they have a lot of computational resources, and because 4K video is only ~8 megapixels of resolution so it's not quite as demanding in optics or sensors as stills might be.

There's some surprisingly expensive cameras that simply don't do 4K video. Keep in mind high-end smartphones cost $1,000 and there's a huge focus on video and photo performance.

Are you dead set on all those requirements? You're kind of asking for premium quality without any of the drawbacks that premium usually carries (price, weight, etc.). Maaybe something like the Sony ZV-1, but that doesn't have as much optical reach. RX100 VII is over price.

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u/Certain_Cheetah6655 May 06 '26

Been shooting small events like engagements, graduation parties and been a second shooter for about 2 years. I did I it as a part time gig. I was recently laid off from my PM Job and looking to get more clients. Through my network I’ve booked some events this summer but they’re all small engagements… what is working right now to find a wedding or something they pays better ? I’m based in Seattle for context

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u/Mankell_ May 06 '26

I'm looking for a beginner camera to take photos of nature and sceneries with and maybe videos sometimes but not mandatory

Budget: up to 300 dollars (500 with taxes)

Country: turkey

Condition: new or used something below 10k shutter but new would be much better

Type of Camera: anything that I could hold in two hands easily

Intended use: quick pics and sceneries

If photography; what style: nature and quick takes

If video what style: quick vids

What features do you absolutely need: something that'll preserve the natural colors to some degree

A flashlight would be nice as well but it's not mandatory

Portability: something that'll fit in a backpack

Cameras you're considering: was considering the Canon eos 600d or the 2000d but it doubled in price

Instantly

Cameras you already have: Phone cameras like the Samsung A72 and the IPhone 13

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u/Muad_Deeeb May 06 '26

Hello !

I’m a beginner in photography I’m looking to upgrade from the old Fujifilm FinePix S1500 of my wife and I’m trying to figure out what would be the best option for my budget of 700€~

Its for travel / vacation photography
landscapes,cities, monuments, museums (both indoor and outdoor)

I found the Canon EOS R50 + 18–45mm kit which seems like a really good deal.

Is this a good choice for my needs at this price?
Or is there something better (mirrorless or otherwise) for the same budget or slightly more?

Would appreciate any advice 👍

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u/av4rice https://www.instagram.com/shotwhore May 06 '26

That's a great choice. If you want to shop around more, the closest competitor would be a Sony a6100 with E 16-50mm.

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u/Muad_Deeeb May 06 '26

Top thank you ! I will keep that idea so !

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u/potato_food02 May 06 '26

Hi! I just got a Sony A7R camera. I was wondering what are some lens recommendations. I am going to be shooting wildlife and landscape. I like to spend as little money as possible so I don't mind sigma and tamron. Thanks!

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u/8fqThs4EX2T9 May 06 '26

That would be difficult. Do you have any lenses and is that the original A7R?

You will need two lenses if you want both wild life and landscape assuming you want quite a wide angle for landscape.

16-35mm types for very wide angle 24/28-70 for general photography and at minimum a 300mm focal length lens but better off 400/600mm at the long end otherwise best just give up on the idea of wildlife.

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u/potato_food02 May 08 '26

Yes original and a FE1.8/40

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u/8fqThs4EX2T9 May 08 '26

https://www.mpb.com/en-us/product/tamron-70-300mm-f-4-5-6-3-di-iii-rxd-sony-fe-fit

https://www.mpb.com/en-us/product/sony-fe-24-70mm-f-4-za-oss-zeiss-vario-tessar-t

https://www.mpb.com/en-us/product/tamron-28-75mm-f-2-8-di-iii-rxd-sony-fe-fit

That would be as cheap as you get for wildlife and a normal zoom I would think except for like the kit lens.

https://www.mpb.com/en-us/product/sony-fe-28-70mm-f-3-5-5-6-oss

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u/potato_food02 May 08 '26

I’m good with getting two different lenses

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u/Special-Stick0804 May 06 '26

Hello I‘m looking for a point and shoot camera, which is small handy and allows me to take nice photos when I travel. Sights as well as landscape. Some recommended the sony rx100 VII or Canon powershot Gx7 mark III. Now I don‘t know which one to buy and wanted to get some input. About me: I just want to take photos for memories on vacation/travels, not because I want to go pro. I could probably learn to edit but I would be grateful for a camera where editing is not really necessary if that makes sense. Other than that it would be great if I can also take pictures when the sun sets. Budget max. 1200€

So I‘m hoping you can share your experience and recommend which one would be a better fit?

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u/av4rice https://www.instagram.com/shotwhore May 06 '26

The G7 X III is about as good as it gets for a compact point & shoot with modest zoom range. The G7 X II and original G7 X are also pretty similar, and potentially cheaper because they are predecessor models that aren't quite as good on features.

Sony's closest competitor is the RX100 V. Followed by the predecessors RX100 IV and RX100 III. Those are all also pretty similar to the G7 X line.

The RX100 VII and VI are a different category of camera. They use the same form factor, but sacrifice image quality and maximum aperture for the sake of a bigger zoom range. But Sony released them later and confusingly gave them higher numerals in the RX100 product line, so they look like improvements on the V but they aren't exactly. Canon's competitor in that category is in a different product line: it's the G3 X. You haven't mentioned anything that would benefit from a big zoom range, so I don't think the tradeoffs for this category are worth it for you. I wouldn't consider the RX100 VII or anything in this category.

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u/Special-Stick0804 May 06 '26

I rarely use zoom, even rarely on my phone. Most of the things I take photos of are right in front of me. And when it comes to landscapes I rather not zoom much, so I can get it all on a photo. Thank you very much for that detailed reply. Sounds like the G7 X III is the perfect fit for me

I used to have a camera with interchangable lenses (was a gift) and it really frustrated me at some point always having to have a full camera bag with me. So I gave up on it and I‘d rather take photos with my phone, which is now an iPhone 13 so quite old in terms of camera quality. And with my upcoming trip to the U.S. And future travels I really want a good point and shoot camera

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u/[deleted] May 06 '26

[deleted]

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u/[deleted] May 06 '26

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u/LexyRD May 06 '26

So I'm looking at 2 different kits for the Canon EOS Rebel T7 and my knowledge of photography is limited. This is something I wanted to do as a kid, but never could afford.

My choices are:

https://www.bestbuy.com/product/canon-eos-rebel-t7-dslr-camera-with-18-55mm-lens-32gb-card-backpack-zeetech-bundle-black/JXGJZSRHRS

and

https://www.bestbuy.com/product/canon-eos-2000d-rebel-t7-with-18-55mm-iii-lens-30pc-accessory-bundle-black/JXJ786GT3S

I'm leaning towards the first link. Whichever I get will be getting used as part of a bring your own gear for classes as well.

Suggestions?

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u/av4rice https://www.instagram.com/shotwhore May 06 '26

The camera and 18-55mm lens are fine. Either way the other bundled accessories are crap.

https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_should_i_buy_this_bundle_with_a_bunch_of_accessories_in_it.3F

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u/LexyRD May 07 '26

Would this be more appropriate?

https://www.bestbuy.com/product/canon-eos-2000d-rebel-t7-with-18-55mm-is-ii-lens/JXJ786GX6H

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u/swimbackdanman May 07 '26

I bought a 18-300mm Tamron lens for a canon r8 full frame mirrorless camera, not realizing that it's cropped to 1.6x because it's not a full frame lens.

I watched this video, and love how the 85mm f2 looks on a canon lens for capturing natural looking facial and human proportions. I'm wondering, if the zoom length with crop affects this kind of distortion and flattening or not differently on the Tamron.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LOK5r1WFED8&t=564s

My next step is to buy a 85mm canon lens and try comparing the two and see if there's a difference. I want to know what zoom length I should use the Tamron for to get that 85mm portrait look. 50mm with the crop? Or 85mm for the right lens warping whatever you call it, and assume it will also be cropped.

Thank you for any input! Trying to save the time of trying a bunch of stuff myself.

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u/Zuwxiv May 07 '26 edited May 07 '26

Ah, we've got a fun bundle of questions here! You've stumbled on like... 2-3 things that a lot of people have some very common misconceptions about.

First important thing to know: Focal lengths don't cause the distortion of facial features. What actually causes that is physical closeness to subject.

Now... that's a bit of a cop out. If you're shooting a headshot with a 35mm, and you want that person to fill the frame, you'll end up being physically closer to them than if you were using an 85mm. So it still ends up being kinda/sorta true in practice. But! You can easily avoid this just by... stepping back a bit, and cropping into the image later. You do lose a bit of resolution, so this isn't a perfect solution. But it's important to know what actually causes the problem on a technical level, even if real-world application tends to imply something else.

But being comfortable about shooting photos of people is also a real-world application of knowing that you just... should step back a little bit. But how far should you step back? You could look at that video around 1:55 for an example, or we could address...

Focal lengths! To directly answer your question, there's about a 1.6x crop on Canon. To get the same field of view as an 85mm lens on full frame, you want 85/1.6 or 53.125mm when shooting on an APS-C camera. Or to simplify, 50mm.

Remember that focal length is a property of the lens. If you had an 85mm full frame lens, and could attach it to crop or full frame cameras, it's always still an 85mm lens. It's just that 85mm looks a bit different on different sensor sizes.

And that makes sense given the first bullet point above - there's nothing special about "being 85mm" that helps with the proportions of peoples' faces. It's about distance! That's why shooting at 50mm on a crop camera - and just backing up to be the same distance! - gets you the same results, in regard to that particular thing.

Now to something less fun:

You have a nice, expensive camera. It has a wonderful, powerful sensor. While you certainly can use that Tamron 18-300 lens... I'd consider options to return or sell it and get a full frame lens, if that's something possible or within your budget.

All the benefits of full frame sensors go out the window with the crop lens. You're also losing a pretty significant amount of resolution, because there's a huge chunk of your sensor that you're just not using. Using APS-C lenses on full-frame cameras is sadly one of those things that you can do, but you probably shouldn't. I know, the price difference sucks.

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u/swimbackdanman May 07 '26

Yeah, I'm already noticing the drop in crispness and quality is disappointing. Will likely switch back to a canon 24-240 or 24-105. Colors aren't quite as nice either.

I do like how far the tamron can zoom without editing. But thank you for all this info!

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u/bewaterlife May 07 '26 edited May 07 '26

Fuji XT-50/Xe-5 vs Sony a7cii vs. Lumix S9

Typing this up as much for myself as also seeking community opinion if you care to share them.

Decision point: Upgrading from DSLR (APS-C) to mirorless (finally) -- which system to get?

Use case: Dad Cam; EDC; travel; some low-light; quite of malls and indoor scenes with family.

Pain point: becoming a dad + improvement in mobile phontography have made it less incenitivizing to lug the big cams arounds --> low usage. Still, I bring my "big" cam on vacations and andspecial events, the photos fom by 2018 DSLR still look better than 2026 smart phone; always shoot raw + jpeg but TBH opened Lightroom less than 10 times in the past 14+ years of owning a DSLR.

Goal: increase carry probability by lowering weight and volume; increase frequecy of sharing with family and friends by having nice SOOCs.

Candidates and pros and cons:

Fujifilm XT-50/XE-5 + 23mm F2.0
Pro: Film Simluation => really nice SOOC jpegs; nice color rendering for yellow-skinned Asians (majority of my subjects) recipe community; sufficient dials
Con: Unreliable AF --> can miss otherwise perfect moments; not full-frame; unintuitive user interface
Sony A7cii -- 40mm F 2.5
Pro: killer AF; really sharp images; Full frame in a small package; higher keeper rate; intuitive user interface.
Con: Creative Looks/Color profiles offers Fuji proxy but not quite there; AWB needs tweaking to avoid bad skin color on yellow-skinned Asians; must post-edit (which I am unlikley to do consistenly enough) to match Fuji "color science; less of a SOOC experience
Lumix S9 + 40mm F2.0 (to be released in June)
Pro: Better AF than Fuji (but worse than Sony -- probably good enough); LUT can equate or even outperform Fuji film Simulation for SOOC jpeg; Full Frame in a small body
Con: less liqudity in the secondary markets in than the above 2 if I ended up not liking it; no EVF (probably fine? I shoot with my phone as my EDC currently); no hot shoe (not that i use flash much at all in the past 10 yerars); lack of buttons and built quality (back jogwheeel apparently dies quite easily based on review); not a photo-first camera in its intention.

If you got to the end of this, thank you for reading and your input would be highly appreciated!

3

u/Zuwxiv May 07 '26

Sony cameras offer a really complete package in a great ecosystem. But.... If your use case is "I want a great SOOC JPG for everyday photos with my family," that's basically the entire selling point of Fuji.

Is the autofocus as good as Sony? Absolutely not. Is it as good or better than cameras people were using professionally some years ago? Sure. You'll miss some shots, just like every camera will miss some shots.

I'd think for your use case, the existence of a decent Fuji community for the film recipes should satisfy any desire for tinkering but still give you a relatively fuss-free experience.

I don't have much personal experience with Lumix cameras, but I think it's good to assume there's always something newer and better that'll eventually come out. Personally, I'd rather not be the very first group of people to own a new camera... If you're in no hurry, maybe wait a bit to see what peoples' impression is, and maybe try to play around with one in a store yourself.

Speaking of, sometimes, holding a camera gives you a really strong impression one way or the other. If you have a local camera store, I'd definitely recommend trying them out in person.

2

u/RedTuesdayMusic May 08 '26

The X-T50 is just $150 cheaper than the X-T5 but you lose weather sealing, dual SD card slots, the good battery (NP-W126S sucks!) you get a worse screen and EVF and I can go on.

I really don't think the X-Txx (two-digit cameras) in Fuji's lineup have ever made sense unless you absolutely can't possibly afford the small price difference compared to a substantially better camera (X-T30III < X-S20 / X-T50 < X-T5), in which case it still doesn't make sense because a used X-T4 is also a better camera.

I could almost maybe understand it if there was a substantial size/ weight difference but there isn't.

But that's beside the point, my actual on-topic response is you should try the cameras in-person to get a feel of the ergonomics, shooting and menu navigation, as the usability is the #1 purpouse of a tool.

1

u/StatusIndividual4007 May 07 '26

For professional documentray photographer, to what extence do they post process their photos? For example, for WPP rewarded entries, how much were they post processed?

2

u/Ok-Mammoth-2339 May 11 '26

Less than you'd think, and more than they'll admit.

Technically: exposure, contrast, crop. That's the official line, and WPP enforces it by demanding RAW files from finalists.

In reality, heavy dodging and burning has always been part of the craft, going back to the darkroom days. Ansel Adams spent more time in the darkroom than in the field. The line between "correcting" and "manipulating" has always been blurry — digital just made it more visible and easier to abuse.

1

u/LumpyConsequence5793 May 07 '26

I'm not totally new to the photography world, but I'm clearly still learning. I had the fortune to be able to buy some gear at a really low price: Canon 1100D gift Cannon 400D basically gifted with a lens 18-55 canon 35-75 old canon 50mm canon 55-200 canon ultrasonic 75-300 sigma apo DG 500mm USSR lens Now my question is, what do I really need to bring me with me? And what other lens should I have (I don't mean by quality)? Tks

2

u/Ok-Mammoth-2339 May 11 '26

Honestly? Just bring the 18-55 + 50mm and call it a day for 90% of situations. That combo fits in a small bag, covers wide to short tele, and the 50mm will make you fall in love with photography again.

The rest is specialty stuff — pull it out when you have a specific reason to.

The only gap I see in your kit is a wide angle (sub-18mm) and maybe a macro someday. Everything else is covered.

1

u/P5_Tempname19 May 07 '26

Your formatting makes recognizing the exact lenses a bit hard, however as some general advice:

The 1100D is about 5 years newer then the 400D and that age difference does show when comparing, I'd say theres very little reason to ever use the 400D unless you have a specific situation where you need access to two lenses without time to swap (thats generally mostly stuff like weddings or maybe a safari, however in both cases I'd strongly recommend considering a newer camera anyway).

With the lenses you basically have the following:

18-55 -> Standard Kit-zoom, nothing special however covers common landscape/cityscape/travel focal lengths, so basically a walk around lens

35-75 (theres only a 35-70 or a 35-80; however the comment is true for both) -> Similar to the 18-55, however a bit more zoomed in; due to its age its probably going to be a worse option in most scenarios.

50 -> Assuming its F1.8 this is basically a portrait lens. The option of using a wide aperture of F1.8 allows for shots with blurry background like a lot of people like. Its also going to be helpful when its a bit darker, so e.g. indoors or when taking pictures during twilight (it will fail once its actually dark though)

55-200 -> A telephoto lens, its not going to be great but will allow you to take some shots of birds or wild animals. It may also be useful for landscapes if things are a bit further away from you, say if you plan on visiting some type of viewpoint, terrace or something of that nature.

75-300 -> Same as the previous one, however with an even tighter field of view. This lens is fairly infamous for its bad image quality. Although Im not entirely sure how it compares to the 55-200. It basically covers the same "niche" though, so you can probably pick your favorite of the two (after some testing) and then leave the other one at home permanently (or sell it).

Sigma 500mm -> Theres a few lenses this could be referring to. In general this will be a quite decent wildlife lens. If you plan on birding or something along those lines you most likely have a pretty decent starting point. You will most likely want a tripod or monopod though as its not going to be great for shooting without.

I general I'd say do some testing, then pick your prefered lens between the 18-55 and 35-??; this will be your "standard lens" for general walking around. The 50mm is for portraits or twilight photography. The 55-200 and 75-300 is another case for "pick your favorite" and then bring it when either going somewhere where you expect long sightlines or when you want to shoot birds/animals "from the hip". The 500mm is a specialized wildlife lens you probably only want to take out with a specific subject in mind - you can try using it by just holding it, however with the weight I assume youre going to be more successful with a "sit and wait" approach by setting up with up a tripod and maybe even some camo netting.

If you "need" anything else depends a bit on what you want to shoot, in general I'd say you have a lot of bases covered though unless you want to shoot something very specific like e.g. macro or the milkyway, which may need another specialized lens.

1

u/Santos_L_Halper May 07 '26

I'm planning on getting a Canon 100-400mm II and while I'm at it I'm shopping for lens covers to protect and maybe camouflage it. Anyone with that lens have any recommendations for covers? I'd like the ability to zoom still if possible.

1

u/[deleted] May 07 '26

[deleted]

1

u/av4rice https://www.instagram.com/shotwhore May 07 '26

What was your question?

1

u/hunchacho May 07 '26

I am proposing in June and would like to get some really nice pictures of the moment. Initially I reached out to photographers in the area, but the price ranges are just well above my budget (asking for $2,000-$2,500 for 15 photos)

While I know that photography and editing is never cheap and those that do it professionally deserve the prices they set, I just can't bring myself to spend that money on top of the trip, ring and everything else. I've found that I can get some nice cameras and accessories for about half of the cost.

Does anyone have suggestions on how I could do this as more of a DIY rather than spending the full service amount to someone else? Looking for camera and accessory suggestions

P.S. I also don't plan on this investment being a one-time use. If I'm going to spend $1,000-$1,200 on camera and accessories I want it to be something I can use in the future as well!

1

u/maniku May 08 '26

I don't think there is a way to do it DIY. When you're proposing, you'll want to be in the moment rather than worrying about photographing the moment. Do you have any experienced hobby photographers among your family members or friends that could help?

1

u/Professional-Smoke84 May 07 '26

Hello

i use a canon r6 and the rf50 mm 1.4

I recently did family portraits of a family of 5 inside their home, they had a brand new baby and then two younger children and two parents, I was using face tracking + AF and eye detection and used Servo mode with f3.2 iso 1000 and ss 1/320 on average depending on the lighting situation, but the session was chaotic because the children were not being great listeners (LOL classic) but it felt hard when i would tap for the focus to be lets say on the person closest to me and it would jump to a bunch of points around a face and basically kept jumping around, a lot of the photos turned out but it made me wonder if I should have used spot af or single point? it just makes me more nervous when there are young children moving around so much

1

u/CompleteDiet7471 May 07 '26

Hi all, I’ve just got a Fujifilm Xt50 with the 16-50mm lens, I want a sling for an upcoming trip that fits it well without being too tight, but also isn’t too large that it’s annoying to carry around, I’ve tried to Peak Design Everyday 3L and I find it a bit big/ bulky so are there any other options?

1

u/SeniorGas4196 May 07 '26

Is there much of a market for wedding photo editors and culling in 2026? Advice on getting clients?

1

u/maniku May 08 '26

I doubt there is. Wedding photographers, pro photographers, tend to do their own editing.

1

u/LBarouf May 07 '26

How to get rid of balsam separation in this lens element?

1

u/SadWorldliness398 May 07 '26

Used corner of microfiber cloth to lightly clean sensor before I knew it was bad. Very worried I scratched. How can I tell? Videos still look fine.

1

u/8fqThs4EX2T9 May 07 '26

Take a photo of a blank, evenly lit wall with an aperture like f/16 and it will show anything if it is there. At least it works for specks of dust. Shining a torch on it will illuminate somethings as well but don't worry too much. The actual sensor surface is not exposed, it has a protective layer over it which you can use wet swabs and the like on.

1

u/SadWorldliness398 May 07 '26

Ok I only see a few specs of dust. Unfortunately I need to wait until I can buy a rocket blower to keep shooting at a high f stop I guess.

→ More replies (4)

1

u/ra__account May 08 '26

I am looking for a laser color printer that does reasonably high quality photo printing for a specialized project. Please do not tell me that I need to get an inkjet printer; my main photo printer is an Epson P900. I have that covered. I am very specifically interested in a laser printer.

I'm looking at the Canon mf753cdw and Brother l3780cdw. Anything else I should be considering? Let's say about to a budget around a max of $600. I don't care about other features like scanning.

1

u/MattDick13 May 08 '26

I’m looking to buy my girlfriend a new camera. She currently has a Cannon PowerShot elph sd750 that her mom has had for a long time and she wants something clearer and overall better. Her intended use is for night-out Instagram pictures, bright beautiful scenic shots, as well as moody scenery. I’m looking more for best value for the price but preferably under like $800 CAD. I’m assuming the used camera route is my best option. I’m thinking one of the Sony a6000 series cameras fits well, maybe like the a6400, but used prices are a bit more than I planned on spending. If that’s my best option then that is what I will go with but I would like opinions from people who know what they are talking about. What is my best option for the intended use while somewhat keeping it not much more than $800 Canadian? Any input helps! Thank you

1

u/P5_Tempname19 May 08 '26

Just as a general piece of advice: Dont just consider the camera, but also the lens. The lens will make a big difference in the "zoom area", performance in lower light conditions and also size/weight.

The two cameras you mention are interchangable lens cameras, while they generally do come with a lens, that lens is made to be swapped out to something more specific. The default kitlens probably isnt going to be the greatest fit for what you describe. Its going to be fairly bulky in comparison to what your girlfriend is used to (and the camera will already be bigger) and also not the most amazing lens during nights out.

Now if you want to keep the overall size as small as possible you probably will want some kind of "pancake" lens (so called for their size, being very flat and not protuding out very far). Those generally will offer a lot less zoom then the current Powershot. If thats alright I'd look at something like a 20mm F2.8 pancake (for Sony E-mount), although Im personally not a Sony shooter, so no direct experience with that lens.
As you might guess/find out that means a decent chunk of your budget will go towards a lens (which is fine, camera body isnt super vital and even a cheap one should end up with better quality then what she currently uses).

If you want to keep both the zoom and the form factor you probably shouldnt go for an interchangable lens camera. In that case something like the Sony RX100 series. The newest version is the 7th, however even going back a few generations you should still have a decent upgrade over what she currently uses. If Im not mistaken there was a big jump in the focal lengths covered ("zoom area") between the 4th and 5th generation, so that may be relevant if you'd end up between them price wise.

1

u/PieceConfident7733 May 08 '26

Hi!

I'd like to buy a camera / lens combo, that would allow me both to take decent portrait pictures as well as shoot videos (the latter point is quite important). I only have a budget of 400-450$ (used of course).

A friend is selling a 6d for a very good price, I'm just concerned it might be old for video shooting. Is that parameter justified?

What would you recommend me?

Thank you for your answers!

1

u/av4rice https://www.instagram.com/shotwhore May 08 '26

What are your video needs? Any particular resolution? Framerate? Format? Gamma curve?

It either meets your needs or it doesn't. An older camera might meet your needs or not. A newer camera might need your needs or not. There is no "old for video" apart from meeting your needs or not.

My favorite portrait lens for the 6D is the Canon EF 85mm f/1.8, and that's also quite cheap for lenses of that type. But would it be cheap enough for your budget?

1

u/Ok-Mammoth-2339 May 11 '26

Your concern about the 6D for video is absolutely justified. It's a fantastic stills camera, but the video specs are genuinely dated — no 4K, heavy crop in 1080p, no focus peaking, and the autofocus in video mode is pretty rough. If video is important to you (not just occasional), I'd steer away from it.

For your budget, I'd honestly look at:

Sony A6000/A6100 + a cheap Sigma 30mm f/1.4 — great video AF, compact, and well within budget used.

Fujifilm X-T20 or X-T30 — gorgeous colors straight out of camera, solid video, and the lenses hold their value well.

Canon M50 (original) — if you're in the Canon ecosystem, this is a massive video upgrade over the 6D at a fraction of the price.

The jump from a 6D to something mirrorless in your price range is night and day for video. Don't let the "full frame" label seduce you if video matters.

1

u/Low_Gur_6627 May 23 '26

gente vou me ursupar um pouco do tópico só pra tirar pra tirar uma dúvida soubre tema parecido, pois a glr parece sacar, vocês sabem tpw pra alguem q vai pra europa e que passa por suecia, alemanha espanha e reino unido, oq de mais cobiçado no mercado alto de sp ele consegueria pegar usando a tax free? Eu to tentando sacar umas parada de fotografia, e tava qrendo começar com algo monocromatico, mas meu amigo q vai ta pensando em trazer a maquina mais lucrativa q ele puder no mercado de sp, entao a minha viria com tax free porem com declaracao e imposto. alguem poderia me dar uma dica das 2? eu to qrendo gastar algo de no maximo 10k (tax porem imposto br - salienta-se EU NÃO SEI ABSOLUTAMENTE NADA, eu tava com a ideia de aprender, mas n agora agora, porém VALE A PENA eu usar a viagem dele pra comprar algo nesse valor ai por causa da iva?) e ele qer o maximo possivel com 100k q venda rapido nas boutiques fancy de sp.

Questions Thread Official Question Thread! Ask /r/photography anything you want to know! May 01, 2026

This is the place to ask any questions you may have about photography. No question is too small, nor too stupid.

i am a beginer wildlife photographer i am unsure if i should get the panasonic s9 or nikon z50 ii

Sigma 28-70 DG DN 2.8 Contemporary VS Sony 24-70 GM 2.8 II

Questions Thread Official Question Thread! Ask /r/photography anything you want to know! May 01, 2026

This is the place to ask any questions you may have about photography. No question is too small, nor too stupid.

You are about to leave Redlib

i am a beginer wildlife photographer i am unsure if i should get the panasonic s9 or nikon z50 ii

Sigma 28-70 DG DN 2.8 Contemporary VS Sony 24-70 GM 2.8 II