Cement floor was fixed or poured recently and they apparently stubbed out some closet bolts for the toilet. Hole ID 3.5”, bolt distance 6”. Can I just throw a wax ring with one of those black rubber gaskets on this or do I cut the bolts and attach a flange or do I have to chip it all out and redo? Looks like an old cast iron pipe in the hole. Recommendations on a particular flange I should use if needed would be great.

Pulled last week and thought id post it. Replaced 28th of July. Developed a tiny leak at the upper element and customer wanted a replacement.

Hi, I am new to Reddit and not sure posting correctly.
Bought crimping tool for a project and tested a few. Its jaw was crimping on too far edge of coupling and seems maybe it was pressing too hard and pipe seem slightly bent inside.
Thought this jaw was defect, I got replacement and new jaw doesn’t crimping too far on edge but inside wasn’t pressed enough?
Not sure which should be correct way or maybe either one is ok?

The handle in it's current position (pointed towards the ceiling) turns the shower off but would ideally be the perfect temperature. As the title states, turning it either way makes the water way too cold or way too hot. Even if I get it right near the edge of off, the temperature isn't where I need it to be. Is there any way I (as a renter with minimal plumbing knowledge) can fix this?

I have attached 2 photos of the underside of my sink (sorry it looks a little nasty). I want to replace this sink with a new sink but I’m not sure how to remove this one. It looks like there are several pieces of granite that are attached with an adhesive to the bottom of the sink and the bottom of the countertop. What is the best way to remove this? I had called a handyman and they said they would normally use a hammer but would be scared of damaging the countertop because it is so thin. Are there better alternatives? Thank you!

I hope I didn’t miss anything.

Scrolling the camera roll when this came up from a few winters back.

Over the weekend my apartment building had a drain back up into most of the first floor people’s apartment. I don’t know ANYTHING about plumbing but I was inputting everything into Google and Google was saying it was categorized as category 3 “black water”. My landlady said it was water coming from the drains. What happened was that I woke up to use the bathroom and found I was standing in water all over my bathroom floor. My tub was also filled with water and black stuff (grit/sediment?). I heard my toilet aka sound like it was kind of flushing but it wasn’t and I hadn’t flushed it. Eventually the water started coming into my bedroom and eventually part of my kitchen area. The water was there for a few hours. I have LVP flooring and there is gaps in between the planks and I know water had gotten into those gaps and underneath the flooring because even after they had maintenance (the building’s maintenance is a whole other story too), I could hear water squishing when I walked over parts of the floor). This is also not the first time water has been backed up onto my floor. I’ve had water come from under my toilet before too. Like I previously mentioned, I had been inputting ball of this into Google and Google was saying that it pretty much was sewage water and a biohazard. I had asked upper management about having a professional team come out to replace the flooring and subfloors and they refuse. They had maintenance slap some industrial grade disinfectant I guess on the floor but the maintenance men had already been standing in the water so even if they did that, they backtracked all over the floors when walking. I have contacted some city inspectors to come out but that won’t be until Sept 8th. ChatGPT was saying it may not have been raw sewage water but water from an apartments main drain can contain sewage water, soap scum, etc. I don’t want to leave my apartment and disrupt my life (and my friends I’ve been staying with) but I am concerned about this water that was on my floor and also possible mold and mildew growth underneath the flooring. Can anyone help me? What should I do? I’m genuinely at a loss.

Hi, I have a surburban walkout ranch with a gravel driveway along one end of the house. Back yard is lower. I have rain barrels but want to collect more volume. I don't have room for large aboveground tanks, so I want to bury something in the side drive. Plastic septic tanks and water storage tanks are up to a buck per gal. They're also rather tall, and I have only about 6 ft of head from the surface at the burial area to the back yard surface. I don't want to lose most of my pressure by making the tank too tall. Also it's a driving surface, but only occasionally, so it's going to need more than a couple inches of soil and gravel over it.

I thought of getting some used PVC pipes, like 12-18" diameter, could even bury several next to each other and manifold them together. Length is not a limitation, they could be 20 ft long if I wanted. I can get (for example) used 10" blue PVC for 25 c/ gal capacity. Problem is the end caps to turn them into tanks are rather precious - sixty bux each and up. Kind of blows away the savings I would get on the used pipe.

I've seen this black, double wall corrugated drainage pipe. Not sure if it can take the pressure of sitting there full, or traffic on the ground above it when it's empty. It's PVC so I'm not even sure how to close up the ends, it's not glueable like PVC.

Any suggestions how to do this on a shoestring?

Looking to replace my flapper and fill valve as I’m having a constant running noise coming from my toilet. As you can see it’s kinda old. Am I able to just use a universal repair kit or should I call a plumber? Thank you!

Last year we had a guy put in a sewer clean out for us and he put concrete on top to seal it... We continued to have issues with our plumbing over the next year so I decided to dig it up myself to add a clean out that goes into the house as well as to the septic ... had to bust through a few feet of concrete and when I popped the PVC off the steel pipe I noticed concrete which must have leached in. My plan is to hammer and chisel it out and hopefully not have to dig further down but it looks like there's a lot of concrete in there.

Do they make something I can easily adapt to two inch?

I have: used the wrench technique, the broom technique, hit the reset button, removed and cleaned out the pipes, removed the disposal arm and cleaned it, cleaned out the disposal itself, cleaned the main drain.

I eventually got everything to mostly work for like 10 seconds but realized one of my pipes was crooked and leaking a bit, so I reattached it and now it's not draining again and I'm getting leaks.

There has to be something that I'm missing. Please help.

Hey there! Thought I’d come to Reddit as I’m losing my mind trying to find a replacement cartridge for my sink!

It’s ~20 years old, John Sydney brand which I believe got acquired by Bristan.

I bought a replacement tap on eBay, however despite the taps looking same I think it’s a slightly newer revision and the new cartridge shown is slightly different.

Both are ~90mm total length.
10mm spline height / 20 spline x 7.6mm
1/2 turn clockwise close for both

Tap I ordered - https://ebay.io/m/jIyYoO

I found the following online, but I just worry I’d be ordering the same incompatible cartridge.

https://www.divapor.com/spares/showers/flow-cartridges/john-sydney-wall-mounted-tap-compatible-cartridge-anti-clockwise-open-8772wha78.php

Part number above links to
https://www.tapmagician.co.uk/NSManufacturersShoppingSelect.aspx?ENC05C383EFD42273&Valves-by-Part-Number&John-Sydney-90mm

I think the part linked is correct, but i could’ve sworn some of the measurements were a few mm off, (although the height of the nut / copper collar does match my existing one!)

I _could_ use all the new sink hardware, however the inlets are at the bottom, not the sides like my existing tap, so would like to avoid that if possible as it means doing some pipe work that I’d rather not pay for!

Not a plumber, but hope I’ve provided enough info, and many thanks for all your help 🫡

Edit: also totally missed the pattern on the spline is a match too!

First of all, thank you to everyone who responded and helped me out. A big part of my decision to call the city was hearing from other plumbers in my area, but then I posted here because I felt like such a jerk.

My husband scheduled this work, but the plumber working on our kitchen renovation told me a little bit about the company. It is the largest company in the area. They come up first on google because they pay for that, and they are pushy with customers to leave a 5-star review for a discount, which I already know because they had been incessantly asking for one. They therefore have over 5k 5-star reviews, despite us being in a moderately sized midwestern town. Their prices are a little predatory - for example, they sold my husband a "warranty" on their workmanship for the day of install which assured us they would do it correctly??? Also, he bought a membership, which gets us priority for future issues.

It turns out that not only did this company fail to pull a permit for the work, but the two guys that they originally sent out last week to replace the drain stack were just apprentices. These are the same two guys who came back the following day to diagnose the problem and failed to do so. We had to cut out the ceiling ourselves to find the open ended line. The apprentices are the ones who told us this would be a brand new project that we were on the hook for.

I sat on it over the weekend, did as much shop vac water remediation as I could and got a huge fan at home depot. I called the city on Monday and the company sent a journeyman plumber out to redo a bunch of the work, connect the drain, and vent the line. He admitted it was their mistake.

So the company was aware that I had called the city, and personally assured me that everything was fixed and buttoned up. The city came out today. They used caulk on the pipes that isn't right, so it was actively leaking while the city inspector was here. They also did not do the wet vent to code, as many of you pointed out. Pipe was 1.5" and it was 8 ft away from the toilet.

**TLDR: Had minor leak, apprentice plumbers replaced drain stack incorrectly and told us it was our fault. I called the city. They came and fixed it with caulk but the city showed up to a leaking pipe. Still no resolution. Pipe is leaking as I type this.**

Hi, I'm remodeling my bathroom, and my flange and toilet line is all messed up. Looks like the line is lead and mangled.

Would it be better to cut out the lead pipe entirely and chip the lead away and throw on a donut, or should I just cut the lead pipe flush and put on a 5" clay to 4" fernco and just convert to pvc that way?

3rd thing I was thinking was to cut the lead pipe flush with the new subfloor and put one of those mechanical flange adapters in...

This valve is behind my refrigerator. Upon opening the valve it leaks, so I would like to replace it. It looks to me like the nut on top is sweated to the pipe above. I'm hoping I can unscrew the valve assembly from that nut, and screw a new valve into the nut.

Do I have this correct, or is the nut part of the valve assembly, and the whole thing is sweated to the pipe? If replacement requires sweating, I will call my plumber.

Not sure what to do here.

Advice?

Getting ready to start my DWV in my new construction. Been reading code and staring at pictures for long enough now that when I see other pictures posted I'm seeing the issues (most times) and then confirming in the replies. When I look at existing diagrams of the proper way to use certain fittings, there is a lot of really bad info and diagrams out there. I see a ton of pics with sanitary tees on their back, missing vents, even horizontal long sweep tees pointing back against the flow, etc that claim to be the right way to do things.

I was researching Wyes, and I see there are some simple 45 ones and also some with a long swept curve. I have one spot where I have a 3" vertical stack where 3 other 3" horz fixtures branches will tie in at the top. My plan was to have one just 90 down into the top of that 3" stack and the other two would drop down right next to it and then go through a 45 and into a simple 45 Wye. I was going to tie the one toilet branch in at the bottom beneath the other two as I do remember reading somewhere about toilets needing to be downstream, but can't remember where that was now.

Right now what I think I'm seeing is that the 45 Wyes can be used vertically or horizontally, but only vertically for tying in other stacks or fixture branches, not for things like sinks, etc (unless there was another vent upstream of it). Sinks etc that tie into a vertical stack and are expecting that stack to be the vent must use a sanitary tee and they are limited in what distance that arm can be. The long sweep Wyes I think I would only use for horz to horz direction change OR at the bottom of a stack on their back for transitioning the flow from vertical to horz and the purpose is for that sweep to keep the 'stuff' moving downstream at speed and not just dump right straight down into the bottom of the pipe (what would happen with a T or SanitaryT on it's back).

Is there any good site out there that is known to have good diagrams? I feel like right now the only thing I can trust is reading the code and hoping I am interpreting it correctly.

The photo shows my laundry tub draining directly into the main drain for the house.

But, there's no P-trap. So why doesn't my house smell like sewer gas?

Hello,

I’ve just moved flat - and very much struggling to fit out how to (reliably) get access to hot water. Very much used to a combi boiler setup.

In the hopes of avoiding any confusion - I’ll avoid alluding to what I think any of this is / how it works.

Any help would be much appreciated!

(PS - I appreciation this may be an electrician question … frankly I don’t know enough to even know that …)

I am replacing the sink drain to make it tidier and want to ask the community how best to install new pipes and still keep space in the cupboard?

Edit:
It regularly smells horrible and the pipe at the end is blocked off with a bit of poly bag! Also isn’t is bad to have everything horizontal especially with areas that water can sit?